Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    Alfredmadere
    Guest

    Question Racing slash 4x4

    Hello everyone,
    I haven't been on this forum for a long time because I've given my slash a rest. I haven't really played with it at all for like 5 months but I pulled it out today and realized it's got some problems. I'm hoping you all could help me with them.
    this is my setup:

    tekin rx8 gen 2
    pro4 hd tekin racing motor
    digital savox sc-1258 servo
    its the ultimate so it comes with assorted aluminum parts.
    on the front I have upgraded axels which i forgot the name of


    this setup is quite good i've found, but there are some problems. Here they are:

    there as a tremendous amount of play in both the front and back wheels. i'm not talking about a little wiggle, the wheels literally flop back and forth. The screw on the bottom of the caster blocks is not long enough and it comes out frequently. also i wasn't able to mount the rx8 in the same place I had the venom vsc so I screwed a sheet of perforated aluminum onto the mounts for the venom and used high strength velcro to hold on the vsc. well that didn't work at all so right now a have a piece of electrical tape wrapped around the whole car to hold it in place.

    A combination of these things make the car virtually undrivable. I hope ya'll can help me. thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2,152
    STRC makes captured hingepins, only needed for the left side. They also make an ESC mounting plate for aftermarket ESC's.

    For the slop, the arms slop put really fast, so replace those and do the steering link bearing mod. See my blog for a link. STRC steering rack will help a little too.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  3. #3
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    STRC makes captured hingepins, only needed for the left side. They also make an ESC mounting plate for aftermarket ESC's.

    For the slop, the arms slop put really fast, so replace those and do the steering link bearing mod. See my blog for a link. STRC steering rack will help a little too.
    what do you suggest I use for the arms.

  4. #4
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by Alfredmadere View Post
    what do you suggest I use for the arms.
    New traxxas arms
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  5. #5
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    New traxxas arms
    won't those wear out just as fast? I'd prefer if i didn't have to replace them every race weekend

  6. #6
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by Alfredmadere View Post
    won't those wear out just as fast? I'd prefer if i didn't have to replace them every race weekend
    So would I. I replace them every 6 months or so, depending on how often I'm running the truck and how sloppy they are.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  7. #7
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    1,249
    I have found that the bulkheads wear the most. If you look for smaller washers to eliminate some of the play of the hubs and get the hinge pins that are longer and cut them down you will be good. Prep is the key to racing. The bulkheads are soft. Replace them and you will see a difference.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  8. #8
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    How annoying. Well replacing them a bunch it is then. Also i found this link on your blog, or at least i think it was yours: https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-reduction-mod Anyone out there who wishes to reduce slop read this. it seems kinda complicated but a couple of those things seem legit. I think i'm looking at around 50 bucks if i want to get this truck race ready.

  9. #9
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2,152
    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    The bulkheads are soft. Replace them and you will see a difference.
    Interesting, I'll have to check that out. If that's the case, something that might work is drilling a small hole vertically through the hingepin holders and putting a set screw in there to keep the hingepin fixed in the bulkhead. That way, it wouldn't matter how sloppy the bulkhead is, because the hingepin won't move.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis?
    Posts
    14,098
    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    I have found that the bulkheads wear the most. If you look for smaller washers to eliminate some of the play of the hubs and get the hinge pins that are longer and cut them down you will be good. Prep is the key to racing. The bulkheads are soft. Replace them and you will see a difference.
    I have also noticed that the rear bulkhead gets some wear and creates slop. I have not really thought about how to fix the problem besides replacing it.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  11. #11
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    1,249
    I was thinking of drilling out the hinge pin hole a little and installing a brass bushing.

    I just wait til they are really loose the put on new ones. I have been thinking of swapping them out just yesterday.

    TDR709015 Team Durango 5x7x0.2mm shims are what I found to tighten up the slop in the hub's shoulder screw's.

    And the longer hinge pin's TRA5161 are the ones you need to cut down to fit.

    With doing these mod's I have reduced the slop alot.

    For mounting your esc I cut out an aluminum plate that screw's down using the stock mounting holes then double sided tape the esc down. I prefer 3M tape. I also shoe goo two corners just for extra strength.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  12. #12
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    I was thinking of drilling out the hinge pin hole a little and installing a brass bushing.

    I just wait til they are really loose the put on new ones. I have been thinking of swapping them out just yesterday.

    TDR709015 Team Durango 5x7x0.2mm shims are what I found to tighten up the slop in the hub's shoulder screw's.

    And the longer hinge pin's TRA5161 are the ones you need to cut down to fit.

    With doing these mod's I have reduced the slop alot.

    For mounting your esc I cut out an aluminum plate that screw's down using the stock mounting holes then double sided tape the esc down. I prefer 3M tape. I also shoe goo two corners just for extra strength.
    okay, I'll check those shims out. also when i went racing last my throttle would cut out now and then and sometimes it would even go of it's own accord. traxxas shipped me a new transmitter and receiver last time this happened but it didn't clear it up, any ideas?

  13. #13
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    1,249
    I don't run the Traxxas electronics so I am not helpful in that area.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    9,302
    the rear alloy hubs actually have a setscrew hole in them

  15. #15
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2,152
    I just checked my Slash and noticed no slop coming from the front and rear bulkheads, and they're probably 2 years old. With newish arms, my truck is super-solid. So I guess I'm just lucky?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  16. #16
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    1,249
    My a-arms have about 1mm. of forward/backward play measured at the hub carrier. It is not as much as I thought.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  17. #17
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    STRC makes captured hingepins, only needed for the left side. They also make an ESC mounting plate for aftermarket ESC's.

    For the slop, the arms slop put really fast, so replace those and do the steering link bearing mod. See my blog for a link. STRC steering rack will help a little too.
    what are captured hingepins and why would i only need them on the left side? also i don't have a drill press so i cant do the bearing mod

  18. #18
    Alfredmadere
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    I was thinking of drilling out the hinge pin hole a little and installing a brass bushing.

    I just wait til they are really loose the put on new ones. I have been thinking of swapping them out just yesterday.

    TDR709015 Team Durango 5x7x0.2mm shims are what I found to tighten up the slop in the hub's shoulder screw's.

    And the longer hinge pin's TRA5161 are the ones you need to cut down to fit.

    With doing these mod's I have reduced the slop alot.

    For mounting your esc I cut out an aluminum plate that screw's down using the stock mounting holes then double sided tape the esc down. I prefer 3M tape. I also shoe goo two corners just for extra strength.
    what type of tape do you use? i found this, do you think it will work? what type do you find works best?https://www.amazon.com/super-strong-.../dp/B00IQWOA50

  19. #19
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    1,249
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •