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  1. #1
    RC Racer Go4x4OrGoHome's Avatar
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    Angry Sidewinder SV3 Killed my Axles

    I upgraded my stampede 4x4 XL-5 to the Sidewinder SV3 combo recently, and I was aware of the risk of breaking axles, but I didn't think they would break this fast, lol.
    So now, I need new ones. I have looked around and found a bunch of aluminum sets, but they are really expensive and I need something cheaper that won't break.
    Does anyone know of anything that isn't too expensive and won't break under the stress of a high torque brushless system?
    Doesn't have to be new, I will consider used as well.
    Oh, and I need a rear axle outer bearing too.

    Thanks for all your help!
    -Jeff
    Last edited by Go4x4OrGoHome; 09-06-2016 at 11:33 AM.

  2. #2
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    I feel your pain. I had a 2.5 classic that i upgraded to a 3.3. It was fine when i didnt know how to tune it right, but now that its tuned its breaking axles. My solution was i looked at amazon for dealer take offs they are usually 1/2 the price for the set of 4. I my last set cost 18 shipped. Its not a fix, but it buys me enough time to accumulate funds for the conversuon needed. Sine on the max ill need the hubs swapped too. I hope that helps.

  3. #3
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    I kept replacing mine almost every time I ran a 3S pack. I realized pretty quick that spending $5-10 time and time again was going to end up costing me more over time then just spending the money on some Tenko's or MIP's. On top of that I was going to end up needing them anyway. Just bite the bullet and get good ones and be done with it. If you're going to run powerful motors or batteries you need to do this upgrade....or baby it when you drive, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the motor upgrade .

  4. #4
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    Tekno, MIPs, and some people here have been going with the Traxxas steel shafts. Sooner or later you will need one of these options, I went with Tekno and they are great, however you will also need aluminum hexes or those will immediately strip on you.

    In the short term backing the slipper clutch way off will probably help, it's the sudden starting/ stopping that shreds the stock axels.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    You can't rack up all the money you can get just for a brushless system. You need to be aware that you will need to buy more upgrades etc.
    May as well get something expensive now, instead of spending on something cheaper and then crawling back to the expensive parts later on.

  6. #6
    RC Racer Go4x4OrGoHome's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input guys. I guess i'm just going to keep buying the plastic ones for a while.... ;-;

  7. #7
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPT View Post
    I kept replacing mine almost every time I ran a 3S pack. I realized pretty quick that spending $5-10 time and time again was going to end up costing me more over time then just spending the money on some Tenko's or MIP's. On top of that I was going to end up needing them anyway. Just bite the bullet and get good ones and be done with it. If you're going to run powerful motors or batteries you need to do this upgrade....or baby it when you drive, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the motor upgrade .
    This^^^ I went through 3 axles on my Slash in a couple packs. At $10 each it added up to 30% of the cost of my MIPs. A couple more and I would have been at 50% of the cost. Like IPT said...you're still gonna need the good ones anyway. RC can get pricey but buying the MIPs or Tekno is one and done.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
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    I run the traxxas cvd shafts. Mil ones were stronger but caused heat issues because they are so heavy.
    This will TOTALLY work, saw a guy on YouTube do it

  9. #9
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    I would post a post a picture of what some do and what I did. But I would have to take the truck apart. I know this post comes late but may help you in the end. As for upgrading. It does cost but the cost will pay its self off over time. And you don't really need 4 of them. Most your torgue is in the back. The front get a good amount less on s 4x4 anyhow. As for making them little more strong. You can cut a piece of Dowel that will fit down inside the half shaft. That's the part that sides on the axle. You will have to take it apart to do this. Get the right sized cut so that it fit just right and snugg inside but not so tight you have to hammer it in. Nice and snugg. This will help them not to twist and bend while running. Removed the room to buckle. This will not make it 100% unbreakable but will add life to the stock half shafts. I would suggest that you cut the dowel down a bit more so it leaves a small say 1/8gap at the end of the shaft. And fill this with a sealant like silicon or something. Stop the water from getting in and effecting the wood. Happy driving. Cheers.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    mips cause negligible heat issues because they are heavy... improper setup is what causes heat issues

    mips are the strongest you will get..... are they free? no.... but at the point of destroying xfinity sets of stock axles, that adds up pretty quickly

    if you don't want to spend $ fixing stuff, don't beat it like it owes you money

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Sidewinder with 3800 kv or higher motor on 3s is not what kills axles. I have a 2700kv and a 2200 kv on 4-6s and am not snapping axles... I truely believe it's from over tightening wheel nuts....

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    A too tight slipper clutch is a good drive shaft or axle killer.

    +1 on what Briber mentioned about the wheel nuts.
    Nobody is born with experience

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    A too tight slipper clutch is a good drive shaft or axle killer.

    +1 on what Briber mentioned about the wheel nuts.
    what they said and driving like a manic is what kills the axles..... not the esc or even the 3800 for that matter

  14. #14
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    I just installed my tenko rear axles last night and today I ran 1 2s lipo, 2 3000mah nimh and one 4200 mah nimh doing stand still full throttle pulls on the road and in grass with slipper clutch tightened all the way and I see no sign of wear at all I'm really liking them. I would have snapped at least one set of stock axles doing what I did normally.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    I just installed my tenko rear axles last night and today I ran 1 2s lipo, 2 3000mah nimh and one 4200 mah nimh doing stand still full throttle pulls on the road and in grass with slipper clutch tightened all the way and I see no sign of wear at all I'm really liking them. I would have snapped at least one set of stock axles doing what I did normally.
    Axle or drive shaft?

    Axle is 5mm metalshaft that wheel nut goes on. It breaks over time and from stress and overtightening wheel nut.

    The driveshaft is plastic and breaks pretty easy where cv pin pivots...



    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  16. #16
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    Im so use to real car terminology, sorry, I replaced the rear driveshafts and axles to the tenko m6 axles with metal driveshafts.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    Im so use to real car terminology, sorry, I replaced the rear driveshafts and axles to the tenko m6 axles with metal driveshafts.
    Its all good. What did those run you? I run Tekno center driveshaft on vxl...

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  18. #18
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    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AFHDGU..._I8j4xb1F1TMZP

    $39 off amazon, Thats why i jumped on them.

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