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  1. #1
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    Aluminum or Plastic? - Front Bulkhead 2530

    Hey to all,

    Over the weekend I wrecked my 2wd Slash and broke the Front Bulkhead (Traxxas part number 2530). From the looks of it, I'm assuming the impact site is at the right front wheel. Where one of the pins are inserted on the side is where the plastic broke. I had to take more parts off than I thought I would have to. This was just to get to the broken Bulkhead. To me it would make more sense to install the aluminum Bulkhead just in case the plastic broke again later. Also, I think one of the pins that goes through one of the side holes is bent as well. I'm assuming I'm going to have to at least replace one of the two pins.

    Is the aluminum a better choice? If so, should I look for a certain brand like RPM or another name brand?

    Thanks so much!
    Last edited by stilllearning7; 11-21-2016 at 01:53 PM. Reason: adding information

  2. #2
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    Get new pins, and just get the RPM bulkhead. It's a lot more durable than stock.

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  3. #3
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    Is the rpm one plastic?

  4. #4
    RC Racer Jigsaw49's Avatar
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    Rpm is plastic but it is super durable bendable plastic. I have a STRC aluminum bulkhead. It helps provide more weight at the front wheels which is helpful to keep them down on the ground and more turn in. I wound reccomend the aluminum.
    smooth is fast

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jigsaw49 View Post
    Rpm is plastic but it is super durable bendable plastic. I have a STRC aluminum bulkhead. It helps provide more weight at the front wheels which is helpful to keep them down on the ground and more turn in. I wound reccomend the aluminum.
    Can you tell me where you purchased the STRC? Also, is the RPM a plastic that does give/bend a little for durability instead of the hard rigid plastic?

  6. #6
    RC Racer Jigsaw49's Avatar
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    I got the Strc on amazon

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Q...MDL&ref=plSrch


    The strategy behind RPM is to provide some bend for more durability. Good for arms and hub carriers. Not for caster blocks and bulkheads.


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    smooth is fast

  7. #7
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    This is something I wish I would of put on my lcg when I did it. Rpm will be more durable than stock for sure aluminum will be better off in the long run but will add a bit of weight to the front. Sometime on my wish list to do this winter is change the bulkhead.

  8. #8
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    As far as the 2 suspension pins, is there a better brand than stock?

  9. #9
    RC Champion Mr Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilllearning7 View Post
    As far as the 2 suspension pins, is there a better brand than stock?
    Get some STRC polished hardened steel locking hinge pins. Combined with an aluminium bulkhead, the front end becomes super durable.
    Pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the RC car

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wolf View Post
    Get some STRC polished hardened steel locking hinge pins. Combined with an aluminium bulkhead, the front end becomes super durable.
    I was told by an old school hobby guy if you get the bulkhead too stiff your chassis will break instead of the bulkhead. That's the only reason I haven't gone that direction. And I haven't seen traxxas offer one. All my other aluminum is traxxas blue.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wolf View Post
    Get some STRC polished hardened steel locking hinge pins. Combined with an aluminium bulkhead, the front end becomes super durable.
    Could you give me the link for these pins? Also, these are the two pins that go on either side of the bulkhead? Called suspension pins also? Can I use my original end clips on these or do they send some with it?

    Thanks again.

  12. #12
    RC Champion Mr Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilllearning7 View Post
    Could you give me the link for these pins? Also, these are the two pins that go on either side of the bulkhead? Called suspension pins also? Can I use my original end clips on these or do they send some with it?

    Thanks again.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCSFD&P=ML

    This set replaces all the inner and outer hinge pins. They have locking nuts so can't back out on you.
    Pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the RC car

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wolf View Post
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCSFD&P=ML

    This set replaces all the inner and outer hinge pins. They have locking nuts so can't back out on you.
    Will the traxxas stock hinge pins be compatible with the strc aluminum bulkhead?

  14. #14
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    The stock hinge pins will work with any bulkhead.

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  15. #15
    RC Champion Mr Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I was told by an old school hobby guy if you get the bulkhead too stiff your chassis will break instead of the bulkhead. That's the only reason I haven't gone that direction. And I haven't seen traxxas offer one. All my other aluminum is traxxas blue.
    Well, I think you received some bad advice. I run aluminium bulkheads in 13 trucks on this platform and have never once broken a chassis. I think a bearing carrier or arm would break before the chassis would at the bulkhead - I always keep these plastic.

    For me an aluminium bulkhead is the next most essential upgrade after alumininium caster blocks. The flex of a plastic bulkhead causes the inner hinge pins to bend very quickly from frontal impacts.
    Pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the RC car

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Wolf View Post
    Well, I think you received some bad advice. I run aluminium bulkheads in 13 trucks on this platform and have never once broken a chassis. I think a bearing carrier or arm would break before the chassis would at the bulkhead - I always keep these plastic.

    For me an aluminium bulkhead is the next most essential upgrade after alumininium caster blocks. The flex of a plastic bulkhead causes the inner hinge pins to bend very quickly from frontal impacts.
    Point taken


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Point taken


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    I installed aluminum hubs because RPM was too sloppy


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  18. #18
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I was told by an old school hobby guy if you get the bulkhead too stiff your chassis will break instead of the bulkhead. That's the only reason I haven't gone that direction. And I haven't seen traxxas offer one. All my other aluminum is traxxas blue.


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    I'd never listen to anything like that... Yes, less flex will result in snap snap but the bulk head won't break the chassis

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    So does traxxas make aluminum bulkheads.


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  20. #20
    RC Qualifier spunkybob's Avatar
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    Are you racing or bashing?
    If bashing I say stick with RPM because aluminium can bend or break other parts if you land bad from a big jump.

    If racing then either or..

    I used to aluminium my RCs but never again because it just moved the break point to the next piece which could be a more expensive part to replace.

    I now have all the RPM parts for my 2wd slash and I beat the absolute crap out of my car and the only think that has broken was my skin when I ran I to myself.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by spunkybob View Post
    Are you racing or bashing?
    If bashing I say stick with RPM because aluminium can bend or break other parts if you land bad from a big jump.

    If racing then either or..

    I used to aluminium my RCs but never again because it just moved the break point to the next piece which could be a more expensive part to replace.

    I now have all the RPM parts for my 2wd slash and I beat the absolute crap out of my car and the only think that has broken was my skin when I ran I to myself.

    Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
    I hit my foot and it was bruised for 2 weeks. I have rpm a arms and shock towers and bumper. This gives me the flex I need when I bash and does well speed wise as well. I have aluminum caster blocks and hub
    Carriers front and rear. I also have an Aluminum bell crank mated to a kimbrough servo saver hooked to a savox 1258 servo. I have glocs and trencher SC's to tell you what type of driving I do


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    Edited for language abuse.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-23-2016 at 09:23 AM.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier spunkybob's Avatar
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    Yeah those parts in aluminium are ok because they don't "really" take the hits so its strength where strength is needed.

    Shock towers take a LOT of hits so I'd rather them bend and bounce back then bend and stay bent or snap the shassis plate!

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by spunkybob View Post
    Yeah those parts in aluminium are ok because they don't "really" take the hits so its strength where strength is needed.

    Shock towers take a LOT of hits so I'd rather them bend and bounce back then bend and stay bent or snap the shassis plate!

    Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
    Kind of my thought process as well


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  24. #24
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    Well, if I wasn't lucky enough breaking my front bulkhead, I found out this morning that one of the caster blocks is also broke. Any suggestions on what to replace it with? RPM, Plastic, Aluminum? My STRC aluminum Bulkhead came in, and it looks nice, but I haven't installed it yet.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilllearning7 View Post
    Well, if I wasn't lucky enough breaking my front bulkhead, I found out this morning that one of the caster blocks is also broke. Any suggestions on what to replace it with? RPM, Plastic, Aluminum? My STRC aluminum Bulkhead came in, and it looks nice, but I haven't installed it yet.
    Id say alluminum castor block and steering block. Rpm plastic A arms

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  26. #26
    RC Champion Mr Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilllearning7 View Post
    Well, if I wasn't lucky enough breaking my front bulkhead, I found out this morning that one of the caster blocks is also broke. Any suggestions on what to replace it with? RPM, Plastic, Aluminum? My STRC aluminum Bulkhead came in, and it looks nice, but I haven't installed it yet.
    IMO, STRC or TRX aluminium casters is a great way to go. For a fairly bullet proof set-up, run these with an STRC bulkhead and hardened locking hinge pins and RPM bearing carriers, shock tower and arms.
    Pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the RC car

  27. #27
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    Any advice on thread locker for the STRC aluminum bulkhead that I purchased? I didnt think about it at the time? My LHS is more miles than I want to drive, but if I need to I will. Would a thread locker from Lowes Hardware be just as good? Thus far, the only piece that is aluminum is the bulkhead. I haven't purchased castor blocks yet.

  28. #28
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    Loctite blue 242 from lowes or any hardware.

  29. #29
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    I'm about to install my new aluminum bulkhead for my 2WD Slash. Does it matter what thread lock I use or can I just get it from Home Depot ? Same question for the hardened A arm screws. With only 1 hobby shop for RC part within about 50 miles, they can pretty much charge what they want.

  30. #30
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    Personally, I wouldn't buy anything from Home Depot. I would recommend going to an auto parts store such as AutoZone, O'Reilly's, or even Wal-Mart and getting the blue threadlocker I think the number is 242 and it should say medium on it for medium strength.

  31. #31
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    Loctite threadlock is the same no matter where u buy it....

  32. #32
    RC Racer h2rac3r's Avatar
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    i broke the front bulkhead to and bent the suspension pins. i just replaced them with stock and haven't ruined it yet. i got another bulkhead if this one breaks hopefully it doesn't

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