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  1. #1
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    Getting back into it, building EREVO chassis up

    Hey guys, so i haven't owned an RC since my mid teens, now in my 30's with kids and my son is a typical boy who loves trucks. So I decided to dive in and build a truck so me and him can have some fun. Picked up a stripped eRevo chassis off eBay and now the fun begins. Boy things have changed in this game! Luckily i have a cousin who is big into this hobby so i have him for reference, however i know there is a ton of good info on this forum as well so here it goes.

    My biggest concern right now with my EREVO build is drivetrain, mainly the diffs. I have read a few threads here regarding diffs, LST conversion, etc. So i am torn between which way to go!! Plan to run 4s mostly but i want the truck to be able to handle 6s if i so desire. This way, running 4s should be no problem durability wise. Here are my top options which i am tossing back and forth:

    Option 1 - Build 2 full HR 1/10th scale aluminum diffs...HR aluminum cups, HR aluminum cases, HR locking hub spools, HR 37T/13T steel ring & pinion, and Traxxas differential gear set. Also, I would use front and rear Integy aluminum bulkheads in this scenario. If i go this route, i need your suggestions on what type of shims to buy and which bearings to use please.

    Option 2 - LST conversion, eMTA 1/8th knuckles, eMTA 1/8th axles. Tossing up between using the factory bulkheads which are easy to modify along with the LST cases, OR going to the next level and machine the aluminum bulkheads to accept the LST diffs. Has this ever been attempted or done before with aluminum bulkheads?? Am i crazy for even considering using aluminum bulkheads in a LST conversion?

    Option 3 - Is there even an option 3??


    Other than that, i pretty much have my build planned out, won't get into too much detail on other things right now as the main topic of this thread should be the drivetrain questions. I have a few other toss ups which i may start some other threads on, but for now, want to figure out which direction i want to go regarding these diffs/bulkheads. Thanks!!

  2. #2
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    I had run 6 s pretty much as soon as you fix one problem or mod it it's inevitable that some thing else will break.
    Stick to 4s keep it stock, but will recommend the belted tyres.

  3. #3
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    I see plenty of people claiming they blow thru diffs running 4s as well. And if anyone knows me, they know I leave nothing stock. So my question still remains...

  4. #4
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    Hey I don't know how much u are planning on dumping into car. But I'm building a stampede truggy from ground up and it is expensive. It is fun to do and u will have the cat u want but just in case no one has said to u. U are about to spend a lot of money. That being said if i could do it again I would have just bought a vxl and replaced when it breaks. But like I said it is fun so good luck sorry I didn't have any answers to ur questions. Lol

  5. #5
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    I know how the game goes, and I am prepared to put over $1000 into the initial build, then repair when needed. I am fine with the fact that this thing may take me months to build, it'll give me something to do. I think I may be the first one to run a LST diff mod in an E revo with front and rear aluminum bulkheads. It's a challenge I am willing to accept. In addition to the LST diff conversion, I plan on running RPM A arms all around, eMTA steering knuckles & eMTA axles, MIP center shafts, GPM aluminum rockers, GPM titanium push rods, Mamba Monster X ESC brushless 2650kv, MSR6 piggyback shocks, Futaba handset, etc.

    So to stay on track, again, any suggestions on diff setup please let me know. Otherwise LST's and aluminum bulkheads are probably gonna be my choice.

  6. #6
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    Oh yeah u will def have a 1000 dollar build. Would love to see it when u get it ready. I like to see peoples creations on here they are always sweet. Got me motivated to do mine

  7. #7
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    I am using the lst2 diffs with the modded traxxas bulkheads. Along with lst2 drive shafts. I've had the diffs in for about 3 years and other than the first diff cracking (removed to much material when modding it to fit) and breaking a drive cup. They've been near bullet proof. The only time i broke a bulkhead was when i crashed head on into a mailbox (driver error). I run 4s and 6s in my e-revo and even put it through the punishment of standing backflips. I'd only be concerned with the aluminum bulkheads bending under large impacts or jumps.

  8. #8
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wansfall View Post
    I am using the lst2 diffs with the modded traxxas bulkheads. Along with lst2 drive shafts. I've had the diffs in for about 3 years and other than the first diff cracking (removed to much material when modding it to fit) and breaking a drive cup. They've been near bullet proof. The only time i broke a bulkhead was when i crashed head on into a mailbox (driver error). I run 4s and 6s in my e-revo and even put it through the punishment of standing backflips. I'd only be concerned with the aluminum bulkheads bending under large impacts or jumps.
    Any tips on how to remove material off the lst2 diff case? I'm most likely going to move to the lst2 diff mod, just waiting until I use up the few extra diff parts I got laying around. So far only shredded the spider gears in the rear stock diff one time but after reading how bad 6s is on the diffs, I'll be doing the mod in no time.

  9. #9
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    I think what i will do is order a plastic LST diff housing and 2 sets of bulkheads, so i can practice with the first set of bulkheads and the plastic diff housing. Then on the second attempt, modify the actual aluminum diff housings and the second set of bulkheads. I will be removing as little material from the bulkheads as possible. Also, plan to use a hardened epoxy to coat the outer walls of the bulkheads where i shaved material away from the inside to add some additional support.

    I think due to the cost, and no guarantee of lasting forever, I am dismissing the use of aluminum bulkheads so i can put that money to better use.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZUMA View Post
    Any tips on how to remove material off the lst2 diff case? I'm most likely going to move to the lst2 diff mod, just waiting until I use up the few extra diff parts I got laying around. So far only shredded the spider gears in the rear stock diff one time but after reading how bad 6s is on the diffs, I'll be doing the mod in no time.
    There is a few good videos on YouTube which give you great instruction. specifically, one where the guy explains that using the eMTA knuckles, eMTA axles, and Kershaw Designs center driveshaft conversion kit made specifically for this E Revo diff mod. It comes with the correct length driveshafts & 8MM diff cups which you will need for the conversion. It makes the entire conversion pretty much bolt-on. Leaving the only items to be modified to be the LST 2 diff cases (exterior shaving), E Revo bulkheads (interior shaving), and the LST 2 input shafts (minor grinding for a flat spot on the shafts for the diff cup set screws to secure to).

    So the diff mod parts list would be this:

    2- LST 2 diffs w/ aluminum housings
    2- bulkheads (F & R)
    4- eMTA knuckles
    4- eMTA axles
    8- E Revo pillow balls (the eMTA pillow balls don't work as well)
    4- 17mm hex hubs
    1- Kershaw Designs center driveshaft kit
    Last edited by iceberg8389; 12-28-2016 at 02:17 PM.

  11. #11
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    I though about going to LST 2 diffs, but there is still some products that may help beef up the stockers. https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...uter-diff-case. I bought this new HR diff case with larger pinion bearings. Also got LEM spider gears, LEM ring and pinion and HR diff cup. Would of got LEM diff cup but they are always out of stock. Oh, ceramic bearings all round. Still waiting for all parts to arrive. We'll see how they hold up.

  12. #12
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevodriver View Post
    I though about going to LST 2 diffs, but there is still some products that may help beef up the stockers. https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...uter-diff-case. I bought this new HR diff case with larger pinion bearings. Also got LEM spider gears, LEM ring and pinion and HR diff cup. Would of got LEM diff cup but they are always out of stock. Oh, ceramic bearings all round. Still waiting for all parts to arrive. We'll see how they hold up.
    I was thinking about doing that but now I'm thinking it will be better to put the money in the diff mod. There is a lot of people saying how good the mod is but not many people talking about how updating the stock diff is going. I actually got an LEM diff cup but haven't used it, since it was sold out when I needed and back in stock after I rebuilt my diff.

  13. #13
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    i was contemplating building two modified stock diffs, but read in a few other forums, and heard on some videos, that they still don't hold up. and you can get two LST 2 diffs for less than what it would cost to build one HR upgraded stock diff.

  14. #14
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    Did the same a few yrs ago. Was really fun and I am just getting around to using it a bit more now.

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-amp-New-Build

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceberg8389 View Post
    Option 2 - Has this ever been attempted or done before with aluminum bulkheads??
    I wake up from deep 3 years sleep to reply to this...!!

    never regretted, this could handle extreme stuff with big joes series 40 on 6s always. never worried again for months, i disassembled just for an oil change and cleaning.

    notice the titanium rocker screws... a very smart upgrade from traxxas as the stock steel ones always got bent, again on extreme stuff.










  16. #16
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    Ah hah!! So the aluminum bulkheads have held up well? never cracked or broke?

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    no they dont break or crack. never.

    the only issue is that the front ones, in case of extreme front crashes or landings, will slightly bend upwards. this results in difficult if not impossible to remove arm-to-bulkhead pins, and after some time and several of those incidents the turning system will start to touch the bulkhead.

    you can just remove and bend back to normal if you have the tools. but the pin removal is difficult, sometimes drilling in the back of the pin is necessary to hit it and pop it out.

    i dont know if all of this is making it not worthy to someone, i prefer it from driving carefully or 4s to protect the childish stock diffs. and plastic bulkheads modded for losi is just a matter of minutes to break if you bash a bit hard. to protect the aluminum bulks, far less caution in driving is necessary. but its an overall expensive solution... 200 for the bulks + filing time +100-170 for losi drivetrain etc. i liked the procedure and i liked driving without being ready to hear the crackling differential again!

    another small disadvantage is that they are a bit heavier than stock, combined with the whole drivetrain it is a bit more. but this is how a 5-6s machine should be from the beginning.

    best solution: nylon 3d print or cast a new plastic bulkhead to fit losi. some people from here a few years ago started making the design and built some prototypes, but i haven't heard much since.

  18. #18
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    hmmm...thanks for the pics, response, and great info! i guess i still have some thinking to do. I scored a rear aluminum bulkhead on eBay for $60 so that was a good price, but not sure whether i want to pursue the aluminum bulkhead approach or just go with stocks. I have read much info from people who shave the diffs as much as possible so the bulkhead modification is minimal, which seems to allow them to hold up better/longer.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    losi diff case and more will break then, too much material needs to be removed to fit in. found a pic:


  20. #20
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    ok i have another suggestion. i am looking now at the modified bulkheads stock and aluminum. i think i will try only the rear one in aluminum this time.

    the front bulkhead seems different, it has 2 vertical strengthening lines from top to bottom, while the rear doesnt and cracks. as a matter of fact, i was only breaking rear bulkheads with the losi mod.

    so there. no front end bending i guess. time will tell.

  21. #21
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    ok i have another suggestion. i am looking now at the modified bulkheads stock and aluminum. i think i will try only the rear one in aluminum this time.

    the front bulkhead seems different, it has 2 vertical strengthening lines from top to bottom, while the rear doesnt and cracks. as a matter of fact, i was only breaking rear bulkheads with the losi mod.

    so there. no front end bending i guess. time will tell.
    So when you're modifying, you remove material off the bulkheads and not the Losi diffs? Those pics you posted with the cracked diff case was that because there was too much material removed from the diff case or that just something that is bound to happen?

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    yes only from bulkheads. i don't even like 50-50. the diff case on losi isn't as strong as it seems. if you see on the pics, i even wrap around the pinion gear casing with wire and then solder it because it cracks open with time.

    the pic with cracked diff case yes was my first attempt on the mod, and i did not remove material from diff ever since.

    BUT the rear bulkhead gets really thin... cracked it way too often. i weighed the integy bulkheads and they are 70 grams heavier each (both filed for losi). not so much. the diff is also a tad heavier. i feel confident on stock front and alu rear.

  23. #23
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    On the aluminum ones do you have to remove the same amount of material as a shock bulkhead? Also, thanks for all the info, now I'm really unsure how I'm going to go about this mod lol

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    yes approximately the same. better if you use a vertical drill press or something with filing tools (i dont know the exact terms in english sorry). i did it all with a dremel and it was not easy.

    why dont you try with the plastic ones first to get the feeling of it, run the car and see how it goes? then you decide.

  25. #25
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    yes approximately the same. better if you use a vertical drill press or something with filing tools (i dont know the exact terms in english sorry). i did it all with a dremel and it was not easy.

    why dont you try with the plastic ones first to get the feeling of it, run the car and see how it goes? then you decide.
    Ya that is what I'm going to do and hold off on the aluminum ones. But I was originally going to take most of the material off the case and not the bulkhead. I think I might still go with removing off the case and if a case brakes I'll move to removing off bulkheads.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    k seems safe.

    to continue, i cleaned with glass dusting the rear integy ones. they have also cracked from the stress on their weakpoints, but the whole assembly with pins and skids will hold for now.






  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    k seems safe.

    to continue, i cleaned with glass dusting the rear integy ones. they have also cracked from the stress on their weakpoints, but the whole assembly with pins and skids will hold for now.





    So based on this, it looks like the aluminum bulkhead did crack? But still worked ok apparantly. I have the rear Integy aluminum bulkhead because i scored it on ebay for $60. Think i should do front plastic bulkhead and rear aluminum?

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    OK... I see Fuzion replied to you. Him and 50togo both did the ALU bulkhead mod, from memory Fuzion had better luck than 50togo.

    I run stock bulkheads with LST2 diff mod... Easy to mod and I don't remove that much material as when I first started with the mod.

    Even when bashing hard I was surprised how well the bulkheads withstood the force they were put under.
    Rock n Rolla !

  29. #29
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    OK... I see Fuzion replied to you. Him and 50togo both did the ALU bulkhead mod, from memory Fuzion had better luck than 50togo.

    I run stock bulkheads with LST2 diff mod... Easy to mod and I don't remove that much material as when I first started with the mod.

    Even when bashing hard I was surprised how well the bulkheads withstood the force they were put under.
    How do you go about the LST2 diff mod, did you take more material off the case or the bulkheads or both?

  30. #30
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    All the info you need is here in my thread... Removed material from the bulks and ended up slighty sanding diff case with dremelled.

    mitch316 eRevo rebuild
    Rock n Rolla !

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    All the info you need is here in my thread... Removed material from the bulks and ended up slighty sanding diff case with dremelled.

    mitch316 eRevo rebuild
    Thanks, ya I seen your thread you got just haven't got to it yet. I got it saved, currently reading thought a few now. It's crazy all the different mods and all the different things people try out

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MITCH316 View Post
    All the info you need is here in my thread... Removed material from the bulks and ended up slighty sanding diff case with dremelled.

    mitch316 eRevo rebuild
    I read through your thread, very informative. I was wondering though, it looks like you built your LST2 diffs, but i was thinking of just buying them complete RTR for about $45 each. Is there a benefit to building them like you did? Did you put different gears in them? Bearings? I was under the impression that the stock LST2 diffs were more than sufficient.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    they also sell gold Ti pinion and ring gears for the diffs, really stronger.

  34. #34
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    I have 2 different process 3 D printers at my disposal (SLA and FDM)... and a CNC (Also obviously Solidworks) We have a gentry style CMM but no romer arm/scanner anymore... Im looking at when my stock diffs go to doing something in Delrin or the like... if I could find a set of draft prints would be sweet (and make the cmm more plausible to make moidded bulkheads) but i DOUBT TRAXXAS will let them loose. May have to scan them. Im just waiting for a failure, lord knows all the driveline crap downstream from the diffshas...

    Ive upgraded to summit axles with good luck but on trencher Xs have broke an outer steering axle stub on the front due to big wheelie/endo/cartwwheel and using power to pull out of it...... BUt the shafts themselves have held up great. Not 1 failuire, yet.


    I love the 6S in it but its caused so many reliability issues ive bought a set of 4s to try and the link to mellow out punch and give it a nice throttle curve and tamer brake setup...


    Well see how long i get away with it before i get angry enough to pull it apart and light it on fire or actually get after the bulkhead mod deal to fit Losis in there so I can put steel axles in it and feel good, but with not breaking a summit shaft itself on 6s yet... Im good with where that part is at....


    Anyone got Prints or access to Files regarding bulknheads? IDEALLY scanned ones of modded sets?
    If so i can get on this soon...

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    closest thing i ve seen:

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5582441

    nothing ever since. i m in if you need any drawing-3drinting help i d like to do this as well for my revo but i am not that good of a mechanical designer

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceberg8389 View Post
    I read through your thread, very informative. I was wondering though, it looks like you built your LST2 diffs, but i was thinking of just buying them complete RTR for about $45 each. Is there a benefit to building them like you did? Did you put different gears in them? Bearings? I was under the impression that the stock LST2 diffs were more than sufficient.
    At the time I built my diffs I couldn't get a complete SET off eBay on the Australian site... The American eBay site were almost charging the same price as postage so it worked out cheaper for me to buy it in parts.

    Buy the complete diffs and extras what you need for the LST2 mod.

    I used stock Losi bearings and I've tried both gears, normal and Ti. For me and my experience I will stick with the normal gears. I remeber the Ti gears been very pricey.

    I think Fuzion uses the Ti gears in his build.
    Rock n Rolla !

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supergenius View Post
    Anyone got Prints or access to Files regarding bulknheads? IDEALLY scanned ones of modded sets?
    If so i can get on this soon...
    As Fuzion has posted you the link... WesleyK is the only guy I've seen who tried 3d printing the bulkhead but I think gave up on it because of the cost involved.

    I don't think he's been on the forums for sometime.
    Rock n Rolla !

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    part no losb3535. not crazy expensive, around 30-40. my rear pinion - ring were badly worn after some time so i put tini gears on the rear only.

    i wish someone makes a 3d file of the bulkheads really. if i ever find 1-2 weeks free i could try.

  39. #39
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    I do alot of design and printing for work and as mentioned have access to alot of stuff including printing hardware

  40. #40
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    ok then we are all waiting for those nylon bulkheads

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