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  1. #1
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    May be time for a P4de-to-Telluride conversion

    Got an idea this evening, while thinking about my 1999 Dodge Power Wagon Concept hard body, particularly, in regard to what chassis it would fit best on. I've had that body over two years and have yet to be satisfied with any previous ideas. Even just recently I had thought it best to mount it on an Everest 10 crawler, but became unhappy with how it would hinder articulation for crawling.

    Well, a few weeks back I was looking at mounting a similar hard body on my recently acquired Stampede 4x4 VXL pre-roller chassis, but wasn't certain I wanted to have it on such a fast monster truck (because I set it up for bashing).

    Weeks later, and only a few hours ago, I was contemplating selling the Stampede 4x4, because I have a Slash 4x4 pre-roller chassis that will soon be built into a sort of monster truck, and there's no point in having two, especially with the Slash 4x4 being more stable and versatile.

    Now, however, I see potential to repurpose the Stampede 4x4 as a sort of park/trail truck. Essentially, I would be converting it to a Telluride. I've already got it powered, currently, by a waterproofed Traxxas ET-3S esc(sensor-capable), and a waterproof high-torque servo w/Castle BEC, so I could easily drop in a higher turn sensored brushless motor. After all, I wouldn't want to bash it, and risk breaking a good hard body.

    Would I try taking it on serious trails? No, because it has open differentials and independent 4-wheel suspension, but it would be terrific for going to parks, walking light forest trails, or chillin' at a campground! Come to think of it, there are some easy trails in the Cascade Mountains, where I do most of my serious trailing, and these trails, though a bore to an Axial SCX10, would make a Telluride feel totally in its element.

    The 2.2 wheel/tire/foam combo I had planned to put on the Everest 10 turned out to be too small, but could now be used on this build, and would help with scale appeal. I'm not totally sold on the idea, but it feels good to get the creative juices going, on this cold, dead winter's night.


  2. #2
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    I really don't like you now, especially with you throwing the "Cascade Mountains" in.
    The Jeep looks great as a light trail / fire road / park truck.
    Bring it and a dog and you'll turn all sorts of heads.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  3. #3
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Haha! Sorry...I try not to rub it in. After all, I'm originally from Kentucky, the West-Central area, where there were no hills, and nothing but thoroughbred horse farms, for miles.

    That Jeep body is from an old Radio Shack RC, which I found in a thrift store. The body alone weighs 2 lbs!! It's very strong plastic, though, and would make a pretty decent scaler body. I imagine I'll have to beef up the suspension quite a bit to hold it up. I wanted to mount it on a more scale 4x4 chassis, but it would require more work than I'm willing to do. It has a very flat underside, which is why the P4de chassis works so well, since there's nothing really sticking up, other than the shock towers, and those are probably what I'll use for mounting it, anyways.

  4. #4
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    UPDATE on the Telluride conversion:

    Well, the conversion is going forward, as I already placed a couple of orders for parts. Of course, I needed narrower a-arms, so I chose to go with the stock Telluride a-arms, especially when I found this excellent, optional link set, by BluemonkeyRC: Telluride Stage 1 Suspension and Steering Upgrade. BlueMonkeyRC is well-known for his scale/crawler aftermarket upgrades, and it was by luck that I discovered his Telluride link set. Coming from a scaler background, I wasn't pleased with the prospect of using plastic camber links, and I dislike fabricating metal links, so this was a win-win solution.
    I went ahead and ordered the brushed p4de ring & pinion gears, and a Hot Racing locker for the front. I'm not sure, yet, what I'll do for the rear diffs. I'll probably make a more formal post with a bullet list of what I'm using, once I get down to it.

    This is looking to be a fun project, and I look forward to finally having a platform to mount those awkward hard bodies on. I'm even surprised to find myself doing this, because I was just about set to sell off the P4de. What it came down to, I guess, was that I like those bodies enough to find a way to use them, and then seeing the versatility of the Stampede/Telluride platform through other people's modifications.

    I've been running my older Telluride body(previously mounted on a crawler chassis) on my P4de for a few weeks, but I don't think I'll actually use it on this converted platform, because I'm going to be installing blue aluminum upgrades, which will look wrong to me, in regards to the metallic red & gunmetal paint job. haha! I might actually get another clear Telluride body, at some point, just so I can make this rig look like a proper Traxxas Telluride. For the time being, though, it's going to have a hard body on it.



  5. #5
    RC Racer SlashServices's Avatar
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    Wow very nice, keep up the good work! Ive never seen anyone do this before and I think, i like the telluride better than the p4de, but the only thing that holds me back from getting one us the fact that theyre brushed stock. Nice project, keep us posted!

  6. #6
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashServices View Post
    Wow very nice, keep up the good work! Ive never seen anyone do this before and I think, i like the telluride better than the p4de, but the only thing that holds me back from getting one us the fact that theyre brushed stock. Nice project, keep us posted!
    That's kind of funny, because the stock brushed setup is sort of what makes it more of a trail truck, than a basher. You could, of course, get a Stampede 4x4 VXL and put a Telluride body on it, if you just like the look of the body. The P4de has a wider tracking width to better handle brushless power, anyway. I'm going to be converting this to a trail truck, with the brushed P4de diff gears. It will be brushless, but with a sensored bl motor, and a small enough pinion to get my desired trailing speed.

    I still have other trucks that need attention, so I haven't moved on this project yet, but it's still on the agenda for this season. Should be fun!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    [SIZE="2"][FONT="Verdana"]UPDATE on the Telluride conversion:

    Well, the conversion is going forward, as I already placed a couple of orders for parts. Of course, I needed narrower a-arms, so I chose to go with the stock Telluride a-arms, especially when I found this excellent, optional link set, by BluemonkeyRC: Telluride Stage 1 Suspension and Steering Upgrade. BlueMonkeyRC is well-known for his scale/crawler aftermarket upgrades, and it was by luck that I discovered his Telluride link set. Coming from a scaler background, I wasn't pleased with the prospect of using plastic camber links, and I dislike fabricating metal links, so this was a win-win solution.
    Those links look very nice, but kind of expensive imo.
    A much cheaper option is the Stampede 4x4 VXL links. You can use part #3644 for the camber links both front and rear, and part #3643 for the steering links. No modifications needed, except for using 3x15mm screws instead of the shoulder screws used on the plastic links.

  8. #8
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    Those links look very nice, but kind of expensive imo.
    A much cheaper option is the Stampede 4x4 VXL links. You can use part #3644 for the camber links both front and rear, and part #3643 for the steering links. No modifications needed, except for using 3x15mm screws instead of the shoulder screws used on the plastic links.
    That's cool if those metal VXL links match the stock Telluride parameters, but I like BlueMonkeyRC products, and chose his custom Telluride link kit because it is unique, and will yield a more preferable scaler look.

  9. #9
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    UPDATE on the Telluride conversion:

    I've been running my older Telluride body(previously mounted on a crawler chassis) on my P4de for a few weeks, but I don't think I'll actually use it on this converted platform, because I'm going to be installing blue aluminum upgrades, which will look wrong to me, in regards to the metallic red & gunmetal paint job. haha! I might actually get another clear Telluride body, at some point, just so I can make this rig look like a proper Traxxas Telluride. For the time being, though, it's going to have a hard body on it.


    So, that's a Telluride body on a typical 4wd stampede? Got any more photo's of that? I hate how flimsy the stock bodies are where they mount in the rear. Wouldn't mind trying that style of body instead.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  10. #10
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    Do you know if your pede roller was a brushed unit originally or a brushless? If it was brushed it actually has lower gearing (diff wise not spur/pinion) than a stock telly so better for trail work right away, if it was brushless than it has same gearing as telly/slash.

    Also I have said this before on here but for a good cheap trick take the diffs apart and stuff them with silicone swimming ear plugs then fill back up with silicone oil for a effective limited slip style diff, I have run these few times and they dont mess up the diff at all and since they are 100% silicone they mix easily with the diff oil.

  11. #11
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla View Post
    Do you know if your pede roller was a brushed unit originally or a brushless? If it was brushed it actually has lower gearing (diff wise not spur/pinion) than a stock telly so better for trail work right away, if it was brushless than it has same gearing as telly/slash.

    Also I have said this before on here but for a good cheap trick take the diffs apart and stuff them with silicone swimming ear plugs then fill back up with silicone oil for a effective limited slip style diff, I have run these few times and they dont mess up the diff at all and since they are 100% silicone they mix easily with the diff oil.
    It was a VXL/brushless version. I've got all the parts for the conversion. I have to say, I've never heard of using silicone ear plugs in the diffs. Do you mean something like these?
    I was planning to use an HR metal locker in the front, and diff putty in the rear.

  12. #12
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    pretty close I use macks brand (for my ears and rears lol). I'm not a fan of lockers since they can put extra stress on parts if one tire hooks something suddenly. Best part with these is just like diff oil weights you can decide how tight the LSD action is by how much you put in then just fill rest of way with oil. My local walmart had the ear plugs for less than $5 and on the back they say silicone putty.

    https://www.amazon.com/Macks-Pillow-...r%2Bplugs&th=1

  13. #13
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla View Post
    pretty close I use macks brand (for my ears and rears lol). I'm not a fan of lockers since they can put extra stress on parts if one tire hooks something suddenly. Best part with these is just like diff oil weights you can decide how tight the LSD action is by how much you put in then just fill rest of way with oil. My local walmart had the ear plugs for less than $5 and on the back they say silicone putty.

    https://www.amazon.com/Macks-Pillow-...r%2Bplugs&th=1
    Okay, more questions on this. What's the longevity of this setup? It seems that the gears will eventually chew the material all up, breaking down their LSD effectiveness. Also, what type of diff oil do you typically supplement them with? I'm wondering if this significantly better than diff putty, since I already bought some of that. I appreciate the info!

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier SummitonSlingrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla View Post
    Take the diffs apart and stuff them with silicone swimming ear plugs then fill back up with silicone oil for a effective limited slip style diff.
    Interesting. Are you breaking up the earplug into small pieces when putting in?
    Sla2hP4deXSummitRusty2TRX4Bigfoot#14TEC2.0Rally

  15. #15
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    Yeah I take them and make them into small enough chunks to really fill the case then just top off with oil, the limited slip effect might decrease a bit after first battery pack but after that it should stay the same since its just like putting in super high weight oil. I ran this in one axle for a year before tear down and it still worked but I refreshed it anyway since it costs less than .25 and I needed a bearing at that time. I use the stock diff oil for the rest of the fill since it only gets a small amount of oil.

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier SummitonSlingrs's Avatar
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    Wow that's super cool. I am going to try. Thank you!!
    Sla2hP4deXSummitRusty2TRX4Bigfoot#14TEC2.0Rally

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I just fill mine with silly putty from Dollar General. It will still slip if it really needs to but for the most part acts locked.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  18. #18
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    It was earlier this Saturday morning, while I was sitting in the living room surfing eBay, when I began to consider the purchase of yet another Traxxas Stampede 4x4 roller to convert to a Telluride. Lately, I've been growing reluctant towards converting my current P4de, because it's quite fun to bash with.

    Here's where it gets good: Instead of buying another roller, for which many of the parts would get tossed anyway, why not build from scratch? I have a Slash HCG pre-roller chassis for an upcoming build, and late last year I bought some drop-in XO-1 diffs for it, so I could use the stock diffs coming off that. I've already got new Telluride a-arms, and a titanium turnbuckle and tie-rod kit from BlueMonkeyRC, as well as GPM steel cvd's, and wheels/tires. Electronics are covered, too.

    I mostly just need plastic parts, like a chassis tub, shock towers, bulkheads, steering rack, mounting hardware, etc. So far, it's looking cheaper to do it this way, since I have the most critical parts already. A major bonus of going this route is that there'll be little waste, or scraps, as is typical with upgrading. Also, it would still be like a new truck, versus a scratched up, used roller.

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    Last edited by rcdabbler; 05-27-2017 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Grammar

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