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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Thanks, Razor. It actually is better, as the new setup/style will accept any of the newer/modern transmissions that fit all of the current Traxxas 2wd's - like my wife's RPM trans, that just bolted right in. It also accommodates all of the current Rustler/Slash suspension components as well.
    oooo, i can see it now!

    This would be the ultimate setup:
    Factory Works chassis kit
    RPM Transmission w/ the 3* camber blocks
    32p gearing or STRC AE layshaft
    Hot Racing sealed diff
    STRC 1* rear hubs
    STRC caps/threaded bodies, TiNi shafts, AE springs
    Castle 5700kv / Mamba X sensored
    Savox 1251 w/ bearings in stock rack and no servo saver
    RPM offset arms
    T5m wheels
    Jconcepts Silverado body
    Too many Traxxas R/C's to put in here...

  2. #82
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinatfms View Post
    oooo, i can see it now!

    This would be the ultimate setup:
    Factory Works chassis kit
    RPM Transmission w/ the 3* camber blocks
    32p gearing or STRC AE layshaft
    Hot Racing sealed diff
    STRC 1* rear hubs
    STRC caps/threaded bodies, TiNi shafts, AE springs
    Castle 5700kv / Mamba X sensored
    Savox 1251 w/ bearings in stock rack and no servo saver
    RPM offset arms
    T5m wheels
    Jconcepts Silverado body
    Now that's a setup I'd love to see.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Now that's a setup I'd love to see.
    We happen to be in luck! I have 99% of the listed above, minus the Factory Works kit, on my current Rustler. Ill make a thread later and add some pics.
    Too many Traxxas R/C's to put in here...

  4. #84
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Time for some details on the chassis kit for this truck, as I finally have a few minutes to myself. I'll start by saying that in the almost three years that I've had my truck, an year and half since I've built my wife's truck, that I've done extensive online searches for various replacement chassis' for the Rustler. Most of the one's that I've come across that were of interest to me had long since been discontinued - REM, Whites, etc. I was beginning to think that I came to the party too late to find the type of chassis that I really wanted - that being, race oriented, light weight, and made of carbon fiber. One day about two months ago, I happened to be looking at some SRT parts and stumbled upon a small picture in Google images of what appeared to be an SRT chassis made of carbon fiber. It really caught my eye, as I don't believe that Traxxas ever made that - only black graphite & white fiberglass. When I clicked on the link it took me to the Factory Works website, where I saw a handful of interesting things listed, but the site seemed to be out of date and missing a lot of information. Once again, I though I had missed the boat and that they were no longer in business, until I clicked on their Facebook page. There I found hundreds of current posts showing all kinds of extremely cool products for many different manufacturers vehicles. The list seemed to go on forever... Stampede chassis' in standard & long wheelbase forms, Bandit Sprint car conversions, Slash Speed run & drag car conversions in rear and mid-motor designs, vintage RC10 buggy components, including the old trailing arm kits, as well as the Leathal Weapon belt driven trans, Tamiya buggy chassis' made out of G10, pan car custom chassis', and at long last a Rustler conversion chassis that looked like the SRT - offered in white fibergalss, black G10 and carbon Fiber. And yes, for you Bandit guys, they make all three types that convert a Bandit to a TRX-3 looking setup.

    Apparently Factory Works has been around all these years from their heyday back in the early nineties, just on a much smaller scale. They used to sell on eBay, but from what I understand, gave that up due to unknown issues. They also acquired Team A&L along the way, adding all of those wonderful steering kits and many other things that they offered to their product lineup. So now the owner, Jeff Malar (super nice guy!), sells directly to the public from their Facebook page. You simply need to contact him directly via e-mail for anything you may want to purchase, or inquire about. All of the products he sells are custom made to order upon request. Even though it seemed like forever for me to get my setup, that was mainly due to me saving the money for my purchase. Once I actually placed my order, I had my chassis kit within 5 days!

    For a quick review of the kit that I received, I would say this - the quality of the kit is top notch, with a factory level of finish. Fitment of all of the parts was perfect, with no modification needed at all. Pretty much everything you would need is included in the kit along with all of the necessary hardware - even extra niceties like a new A&L steering kit with bearings. The only reason I say "pretty much everything" is included, is that the one thing I found I didn't have, that is different on this chassis and not transferable from a standard Rustler chassis, is the steering servo mount. On the stock Rustler chassis it is built into the upper plate. For this chassis you need the independent mounts that bolt to the lower chassis itself - similar to the SRT. Which was no big deal - I did have some mounts from the carbon fiber plate I had on my truck before I changed to the chassis I wound up using on it. I didn't really like the way those mounts worked or looked, so I just purchased the actual SRT servo mount, that is still available from Traxxas - I think they still use it on the Nitro 4Tec (part# 2715 - $2.50 from Traxxas) and used that instead.

    The only real modification that needs to be done when making this conversion is to the body - you'll need to drill a new rear mount hole about 1/2 inch forward of the original due to the rear shock tower location on this chassis. As you've seen in some of the previous pictures, the shocks mount on the back of the shock tower rather than the front. This is because the rear tower is located more forward than stock. The shocks still mount to the front of the rear arms, and camber links also mount the same as stock. Wheelbase and all other essentials are the exact same as the Rustler. Since the rear tower is more forward, it does use a custom designed brace for the transmission on top. For my carbon fiber kit, this part was also made of carbon fiber - for the other materials it will come in a matching material. This is the biggest difference in making this chassis fit a Rustler, and being able to use any of the modern Traxxas 2WD transmissions. The only other difference, I believe, is a couple of holes in the lower plate itself. Otherwise this chassis is identical to an SRT setup. Also, the front and rear towers themselves are custom cut pieces - matching an SRT in basic design, but being slightly different. The front is identical to the SRT #2518 tower except for different inner camber link hole locations, and the rear has the same basic shape with some different center cutouts.

    That about wraps up the basics of the chassis kit and Factory Works info. I would like to add that with all of the products that they offer, and can make for just about every modern and vintage Traxxas vehicle, that we need to spread the word, and get this information to the other forum members in the other sections (Slash, Stampede, Vintage, etc.). What Factory Works produces and can custom make for people, I know will be huge for many people here (like myself, previously) that don't know they're out there and what they can do. Just imagine the Vintage guys being able to have custom made pieces for long since discontinued items to be able to complete a build, that otherwise might not be possible. Or Slash guys being able to make speed run/drag conversions with ease. Or (and this is a biggie) Bandit guys finally having a buggy specific choice of an alternate performance chassis.

    Once again I'm out of time, so that will wrap up this portion. Next will be some specifics of whats been done to my wife's truck in conjunction with this build, and some extra things I've done to add to the performance of her truck with the new chassis. (Hint - think transmission)

    P.S. - Here's a link to their Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/factoryworksrc/ with some stuff that will make you drool. Take the time to scroll through the whole thing - you'll be glad you did.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-04-2018 at 01:02 PM.
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  5. #85
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    A whole new dimension opens up...awesome!! Thanks for sharing, I'll check it out. CF has been fun to work with, tough, lite and some flex, i like it. I'm interested in how it performs compared to your other chassis'd rustler. What differences do you expect?
    MTFBWY

  6. #86
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Amazing find, excellent work. I was looking through their FB page and it sounded like G10 was more durable than CF. Any thoughts on if that is true?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  7. #87
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    A whole new dimension opens up...awesome!! Thanks for sharing, I'll check it out. CF has been fun to work with, tough, lite and some flex, i like it. I'm interested in how it performs compared to your other chassis'd rustler. What differences do you expect?
    Yeah, talk about a whole new dimension, I thought I entered the Twilight Zone when I first saw what these guys could make.
    Needless to say, I'm really interested in the performance of this setup too, especially compared to my truck. What I'm expecting is that being lighter, it will be very nimble and fly really well over the large jumps on the dirt track. I also think it will land those big jumps quite smoothly. I do anticipate this truck doing very well on the dirt - the lighter setup should work as well on this type of surface as my truck does on the carpet. Th biggest difference beyond the weight, is how the weight is distributed and carried. My truck carries its increased weight quite low, maintaining a very low center of gravity and roll center, keeping it glued to the carpet against the extreme g-forces generated by high traction, high speed cornering. This truck runs a bit higher in the roll center to help keep its composure on the rough, uneven and slippery dirt surface. This, I believe, is where the lighter weight will shine - having a bit less should minimize any high centered traction rolling in the eternal struggle between g-force and gravity. That's my theory, anyway - time & track testing will tell.
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  8. #88
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Amazing find, excellent work. I was looking through their FB page and it sounded like G10 was more durable than CF. Any thoughts on if that is true?
    Thanks Razor. I do think that in general, overall conditions G10 might be a little more durable, but I also think the carbon fiber will be more advantageous in the specialized environment of the track. For the majority of those that bash their trucks on the street, at the skate park, and other such places, the added flexibility and weight of G10 will hold up much better. The lighter, more rigid carbon fiber, however, should be more suited for dirt off road track applications. Since my wife's truck, like mine, will never see a curb, the inconveniently placed car tire, tree or fence, the advantages will outweigh the disadvantages in its prime element of an off road track.

    Along the same thought of durability.... Factory Works does highly recommend that you seal the edges of all of the carbon fiber parts to prevent splintering or fraying. This is something that I've never bothered to do in the past with the smaller parts I've used, like shock towers and braces. I did, however, heed that warning this time and sealed everything up thoroughly so it would hold up well to the rigorous track environment.
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  9. #89
    RC Qualifier PJbottoms's Avatar
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    My new rustler vxl is arriving this week which Ill be running quite frequently on a local track I just discovered (well, if you consider an hour and a half away "local" ). Your setup post on page 2 of this thread is extremely helpful! Thanks for that.

  10. #90
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    As I was tearing this truck apart to change things over to the new chassis, I started to think about a few things. In particular, the environment that it would be running. The only dirt track close to me, where this truck is being setup to run, has a very challenging surface. It's hard, dry, rough, abrasive, and tends to get a thin layer of dust on top that makes it difficult to get any traction. With those things in mind, I took the opportunity to both prepare the truck for this, and give it some advantages as well. Having just re-done the trans on my truck with great results, the first thing that popped into my head, naturally, was the trans in this truck. I was going to put my old trans in my son's Slash, but since I was doing my wife's truck first, I figured why not put it in her truck. After all, other than splurging on the new chassis, most everything on this truck has been a hand-me-down from my trucks build. Of course benefiting from the lessons learned during my build as well. And while everything was still apart, I did give the Hot Racing diff a quick overhaul. I replaced the o'rings and seals, cleaned out the old fluid and put in some fresh 30K fluid. I cleaned the inside of the case, installed and shimmed the STRC top shaft, and buttoned it all up. Since I had to use half of the V2 clutch on my trans build (the inner hub plate & one pad on the inner side), that left me with only half of the setup left for this truck. So, it was a no brainer to just spend the $15 on the VTS clutch kit to finish this trans up in style. I think the way the VTS system puts power down will be perfect for the slippery surface of the dirt track conditions I mentioned earlier. That combined with getting power down evenly to both rear wheels with the sealed diff, should provide sufficient traction. I topped it all off with a new pink RPM gear cover, which will provide easier access to the slipper for quick track side adjustments as well as add some pink bling to the back of the truck, which it will need, since I will be eliminating the current factory pink rear bumper. So now the trans in this truck is identical to mine with the exception of the Robinson Racing idler gear, and the ceramic bearings. Still very smooth, though.

    With the transmission and traction taken care of, my thoughts now turned to the extreme chassis wear that this track dishes out. Not wanting to have the beautiful carbon fiber get torn up, I devised a plan to keep things protected. I purchased a clear JConcepts chassis protector package that comes with two large adhesive sheets. The plan is to install one that will cover all of the chassis, and cut multiple strips to run down the center width from front to rear. Next I will be replacing the rear bumper with the modified T-Bone Racing rear bumper/skid plate from my truck to protect the very rear three inches of the chassis that tends to take the brunt of wear. I have a new bumper/skid coming for my truck, that I have an idea to modify a little differently for lighter weight on it for the carpet. The last part of protecting the chassis involve the front of the truck. Since the factory front bumper doesn't cover the entire front bulkhead or the font of the chassis where it meets the bulkhead, I will use some black Gorilla duct tape, in multiple layer to cover that. I will be replacing the front bumper eventually with one like the modified Pro-Line Pro-2/Slash bumper that's on my truck, but in the meantime the system outlined above will keep the chassis well protected, and have one really nice feature. The reason for these multiple layers of things in strips is to have the ability to just "tear off" a layer as it gets torn up, until it gets to the last layer, then I can just re-apply the tear-offs. Think of it as similar to a NASCAR race cars "tear-off" windshield film.

    Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of this stuff yet, since I'm still waiting on the rear bumper/skid plate to arrive. I do have a nice picture of the the HiTec servo and mount/steering linkage...


    And the last bit of setup for this track was getting the roll center right. I mentioned that it is set slightly higher than that on my truck to be able to handle the rough/uneven surface. To accomplish this I positioned the inner link mounting a little lower than than the outer, giving a bit more camber gain for maximum grip in the turns, as well as making the rear camber links just a tad shorter. I played with a bunch of settings that the new rear bulkhead had to offer, until I settled on what looked optimum. For the front, I had to drill new holes, as the Factory Works tower only had two pre-drilled choices - neither worked for what I was looking for. You can see what I mean here....


    So this is where things are currently at until other items like the bumper/skid plate arrive and I can wrap it all up. Soon after that it will be time to hit the track and test things out.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-06-2018 at 12:34 AM.
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  11. #91
    Traxxas Employee Nitro Chicken's Avatar
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    Wow! Nice build! nice find on the SRT style chassis too!
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  12. #92
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro Chicken View Post
    Wow! Nice build! nice find on the SRT style chassis too!
    Thanks, Nitro Chicken. It's really great to hear from a Traxxas employees on this. It's my hope that this info will reach all of the forum members that I know will benefit the most from it - i.e. Vintage guys, etc.
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  13. #93
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    Great build, i love the carbon fiber body but im curieus that it isnt to light now
    Stampede 4X4 VXL
    Rustler VXL

  14. #94
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcndc View Post
    Great build, i love the carbon fiber body but im curieus that it isnt to light now
    Thanks bcndc. I don't think at it's current weight the truck is too light - need to remember that this is without a battery, or body installed. Both of those two things add considerably to the total "race weight" of a vehicle. Just to give the weight figures that I post some perspective, here's some info many should find useful.

    Current ROAR rules for the Stadium Truck class state that the minimum weight is 60 ounces, or 1,701 grams. This is for a total race weight - battery, body, and everything included, ready to race. Most of the pro's trucks weigh in between 1,925-1,975 grams at full race weight for modified truck, and between 1,775-1,900 grams for stock classes.

    If you take the 1,615 grams that my wife's truck is at now, and add a battery and body, it winds up right in that range, depending on what type of battery is used. For instance, my lightest 2S shorty pack is 158 grams, the heaviest 2S shorty is about 216 grams, and my standard sized SPC 2S LiPo's are about 266 grams each. The average painted truck body is about 90-95 grams, depending on body style and thickness, as well as thickness of paint (yes, that's really splitting hairs, but trust me, the pro's measure this stuff to that degree). The last stock, painted rustler body I weighed (I think it was the blue & white body of my truck - the one with the same paint scheme as this truck) came in at 95 grams. So, if you add the weight of this truck, plus it's body, plus the weight of a standard sized 2S LiPo (that's what will be run in this truck for now) it comes out to a total weight of 1,976 grams.

    Of course for the pro's, their weight tends to vary a lot based on the type of track. High bite carpet, or clay tracks are run heavier due to carefully placed ballast weights to lower the center of gravity, whereas dirt track setups are generally lighter and run with less, to no ballast weights.

    Even for this truck the weight can vary quite a bit - but still generally operate in the 1,900-1,975 gram range. One of the first weight measurements I took of this truck was way back in the beginning of the build on page 1 (see post #21) that showed it to weigh in at 1,606 grams, yet when I weighed it before doing the chassis conversion, it was at 1,667 grams. So, how can that be? The truck hasn't really changed much from then to now, right? Well, yes and no. You have to remember that when talking about measurements in grams, any slight variance can change the number, and you'd be surprised at how much weight difference there can be among certain things you just wouldn't expect, or think of. When I took that first weight measurement I was running the same front wheels & tires, but different rear tires (same type of wheels, though). The ProLine Suburbs on the truck now weigh about 10-11 grams more each than the worn out ProLine Scrubs that I had on the truck in the beginning when I was doing some testing on the street after first getting the truck together. Also since then, I replaced the stock plastic Ultra Shock bodies with the STRC threaded aluminum ones - adding even more weight at every corner, and a heavier higher performance servo, bringing it from the 1,606 grams to the 1,667 grams it was before the chassis swap. Of course, now that the conversion is done, it's dropped down to 1,615 grams, even with the heavier components - or, roughly where it started out before, and right in the normal range of 1,900-1,975 grams at full race weight.

    A few side notes to all of that.... Closed foam tire inserts can weigh up to 10 grams each more than standard foams, or 40 grams added to a trucks total weight for all four! A thinly painted body, while not as pretty, can weigh 20-30 grams less than one with thicker coats or multiple colors. For every tenth of an inch in larger tire diameter you'll add approximately 2 grams of weight for each tire. The list could go on and on, but as you can see, it can get to the point of being ridiculous, and frankly pointless, unless your a pro that makes their living on winning or losing.

    For me and my purposes, I'm just satisfied knowing that mine & my wife's "heavy" Rustlers weigh the same or less than any of the pro's full blown race trucks.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-06-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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  15. #95
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    FTD, I pretty much agree with you on weight. I got my stock spec TLR 22T 4.0 under 1800g (about 1790g), and it was definitely too light. The problem is that stadium truck tires have so much surface area, you really need a good amount of weight pressing down on the tires to generate traction. When the truck is too light, it tends to just skim across the surface of the track rather than dig in.

    IME, somewhere in the 1850-1900g range is ideal. Rustlers are way too heavy out of the box, I think you're going in the right direction by lightening it with the carbon fiber.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  16. #96
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Definitely agree - 1,850-1,900 grams is about perfect for a stock class truck (17.5T or 13.5T). Once I convert my battery inventory to all shorty packs and can set this truck up to run them exclusively, this truck will wind up at 1,875-1,900 grams. At that point is when I'll be converting it to a 13.5T stock class brushless setup, but I'm getting ahead of myself...
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  17. #97
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So I desperately have been wanting to test out all of big changes that I've done to this truck, but the temperatures here in my part of Southern California have been well over a 100 degrees for the last two months. The outdoor track that this truck was setup to run on is just no place to be in that kind of heat, for people or heat sensitive electronics. The drivers stand is covered, but the pits have absolutely no shade whatsoever. Not really wanting to fry, I planned on going to the indoor carpet track with my truck this past weekend. Even this track added 3 massive coolers recently to keep things comfortable inside for everyone in the extreme heat - certainly a welcome addition. However, this didn't solve my problem with being able to test my wife's truck.

    Left with these circumstances, my solution became clear. If I wanted to run her truck, I would just have to set it up (temporarily) for the carpet. I spent some time Friday night and Saturday devising a plan and engineering the truck to handle the carpet, without making too many changes that would make it difficult to change back for the dirt. In the end I only wound up adding a front sway bar, switching to carpet tires all around and making some spring adjustments - that's it. I figured this would cover the basics well enough to get by and a least be able to drive the truck to check out out the new chassis.

    I borrowed the front sway bar from my son's Slash and was easily able to add that since the front arms were originally on my truck, and had already been modified to accept the front sway bar ball stud mounts. With my truck sporting the Pro-Line carpet tires currently, I still had my JConcepts carpet tires mounted on the DE Racing Speedline wheels that now would bolt right up to her truck with no issues, again due to the recent suspension change. Lastly was the body. I had not yet modified her custom painted Rustler body to accept the new rear mounting position, as I wanted to do a really clean job and test out my idea for accomplishing that on my old, original XL5 body that came with my truck, which I still had laying around. So that's exactly what I did. That's the one thing no one but my wife will ever use - the body that I made just for her. She doesn't mind me or my son using her truck when she isn't coming with us to the track, but nobody gets to beat up the body made for her, but her.

    Here's a couple of quick pictures with the detail of the sway bar setup (if it looks familiar, it should, as it's identical to the setup on my truck), and the wheel/tire & body combo that I ran on the carpet today.



    With no more than these simple changes I was able to run quite well on the carpet with this truck. It handled wonderfully, jumped/landed well and didn't suffer any traction roll issues. Steering with the A&L steering rack/Hitec Servo combo was extremely quick and precise - every bit as much as my truck. They did change the layout of the track since I was there last, and it was much more technical than the previous layout. This seemed to suit her truck very well the way it was handling. It was really nice being able to run my truck and then hers back-to-back and get an immediate comparison. The biggest, noticeable difference was, of course, speed. The simple XL5/Titan brushed setup in her truck just couldn't compare to the brute power that I'm used to in my truck. That being said, with such a twisty, technical layout, the shortage of speed was only really evident going down the big straight - which remained the same from the previous layout. Otherwise, on all of the other parts of the track it wasn't as dramatic, since I really can't use all that power that my truck can generate. Once her truck gained some steam though, it was fine. I started with gearing at 87/18, just to play it safe with temps, but after the first run it came off O.K. temperature wise, so I geared up to 87/19, and it was as good as it was going to get for a balance of temp/speed.

    The transmission with the VTS clutch and HR diff also worked out very well. It was smooth, quiet, and provided nice even, consistent power to the ground and through the turns all day with no problems, no leaks, and no issues of any kind. The new layout had a huge double climbing, double step-up jump that I could easily clear with my truck. Once I geared her truck up, it could easily clear it as well. This gave me a great look at how this set-up fly's, as this jump is huge, and you look right at your vehicle in the air at drivers stand height directly in front of you. The truck took this double perfectly balanced and poised. At the end of the day, I'm happy to report that there were no broken parts, loose screws, or damage of any type.

    There were only two minor things that I noticed that would need to be changed to run her truck on the carpet a little better than it did (other than more power). The first would be the front springs. The rate was fine, but the stock white Rustler springs were all the way at the top of the pre-load adjustment on the shocks, and the arms were only level. To run a little more effectively there, the ride height in front needs to come down just a bit more. The next would be to run shorty battery packs, as opposed to the standard sized LiPo. This would drop about 50 grams in weight and would help speed considerably.


    And speaking of that... Next up for this truck will probably a solid 13.5T brushless combo. I'll also get more shorty packs, and modify the battery box to accept only those in the not to distant future. And lastly, regardless of what track this truck is running on, I'll be switching to some of my Losi springs in front to have a better range of pre-load adjustments.

    So that wraps up the track report with the new SRT-R chassis. Hopefully, the heat will ease up here soon and I get some track time in on the dirt and let you all know how it does there.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-13-2018 at 01:04 AM.
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  18. #98
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I received a few small pieces this past week to refine and finalize some of the last changes to this truck. I did have a chance to get my modifications done and the parts installed already, since I want to go to the track this upcoming weekend. The heat hasn't let up (much) here, so I'll be headed indoors to the carpet again for now.

    I purchased a set of Losi 2" black springs (4.1lb. rate) for the front to replace the stock white linear Rustler springs that were on the truck previously. Now I'm able to get the ride height in front to just below arms level for the carpet, and have plenty of pre-load adjustment to raise it to arms level for the dirt. While I was on the front suspension, I also got another set of 3x16mm tiny turnbuckles (AE part# 8811) for the front sway bar end link assemblies. The ones that were on the bar previously from my son's Slash were a bit longer and couldn't be tightened/shortened any more, and were hitting the body on full suspension compression. They also had the forward extensions of the bar up in front, making it parallel with the arms' 30 degree kick up angle, instead of parallel to the chassis. You can get an idea of what I'm talking about here...


    I also finally received the T-bone Racing rear bumper/skid plate that I've been waiting a month for - they've been out of stock and I had to wait while they made more. I was going to put the one on my truck on this truck and put the new one on mine, after I made a little different type of modification to it. But, since I had to wait so long for it to arrive, I just tested out the new modification to my old bumper (which worked out well) and left it on my truck. I modified the new bumper in the same way, and got that installed on my wife's truck. Essentially, the new mod is simply cutting a "slot" in the rear bumper face, instead of a series of round holes. This lightens the bumper up even more, provides for even better airflow and cooling to the motor, and doesn't reduce strength at all. You can see it in this picture, along with the chassis protector "strip system" that I mentioned in an earlier post.


    One last change I did before I hit the track this weekend is another gearing change. The minor things that I've done since the last time on the track with this truck are only refinements to a truck that already performed extremely well. The biggest negative take away from it's maiden track outing was speed. So, I'm going to push the limits of what the Titan motor can handle in terms of gearing, to get as much speed as I can out of this setup. Originally, I had 87/18 in the truck and I went up to 87/19 while I was at the track last. This time I've changed the spur gear to an 84 tooth JConcepts silent speed gear, and left the pinion at 19T - to start out with , anyway. Once I get there and try that gearing combo, if it doesn't blow up, and I still feel it needs more speed, I'll try a 20T pinion and see how it goes. Should it survive that, then that's probably where I'll leave it, regardless of where it's speed winds up. Within the next month or so I'll be changing some ESC/motor combos in both my truck and this one, swapping some things around and playing with different setups, so other than this upcoming track session, it won't matter past this weekend. One thing I do know for sure, is that in the end this truck will have a much better performing brushless ESC and a 13.5T brushless, sensored motor.

    Here's one final shot of the truck in it's current track ready form. Although it's a little difficult to tell in this shot, the truck does sit much more level now front to rear with the spring change. Current ride height is at 25mm all around, when a battery is installed, that is.
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  19. #99
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    OP....ainít nothin wrong with the XL-5 and Titan. Plenty of power. XL-5 is actually a really good esc. Titans can last a while if you keep the exposed bushing clean.. That wonít be a problem if sheís on a track. Since you have a second Titan that should her going for quite a while.

  20. #100
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Hey FTD, questions for you about that FWs chassis:
    1. What thickness is the bottom and top chassis?
    2. What material would you rec for the standoffs?
    3. Would you make any changes to the chassis itself? If so what would it be?
    MTFBWY

  21. #101
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by massenrg4 View Post
    OP....ainít nothin wrong with the XL-5 and Titan. Plenty of power. XL-5 is actually a really good esc. Titans can last a while if you keep the exposed bushing clean.. That wonít be a problem if sheís on a track. Since you have a second Titan that should her going for quite a while.
    Nothing at all wrong with the XL5/Titan setup, and the XL5 is an excellent ESC. Between my truck, my son's Slash, and now her truck, the same Titan that's in her truck now has been running strong for the last three years. When driven on the street testing things out here or there, or on a larger track, speed with this setup has been pretty decent on 2S LiPo's. The real issue with speed is more with me than the truck. The last track session was the first time I've run her truck, then mine, back-to-back on the same track, and the difference in speed for a power junkie like me (and my son ) is just too much to take. For the times either of us drive her truck more power would be really nice, and I can always gear down, or limit power for her when she takes it out.

    The real reason for the changes to come, like everything else on her truck, have to do with changes upcoming in my truck. I plan on something new for mine that will leave me with a spare Reedy BlackBox ESC - which will be begging to be put into her truck. If I spend just a little on a decent 13.5T brushless motor, she will have a much more versatile setup that will take much better to my 100C 2S shorty packs, for practically nothing in terms of investment. Gotta love the "hand-me-down" effect.
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  22. #102
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Hey FTD, questions for you about that FWs chassis:
    1. What thickness is the bottom and top chassis?
    2. What material would you rec for the standoffs?
    3. Would you make any changes to the chassis itself? If so what would it be?
    Hey, Syn. So the upper and lower chassis plates are 3mm thick. For the Standoffs, I preusume you are talking about upper shock mount standoffs? If so, I stick with plastic ones for everything that has aluminum caps. Metal to metal mounting surfaces tend to wear quickly, then start to bind and/or develop play. The plastic are pretty durable and last quite a bit longer.
    And changes to the chassis? I've thought a lot about that question, and for someone like me that can't seem to leave anything alone... I wouldn't change a thing about the chassis itself. I think it's perfect for me and my application just the way it is. The only thing I've changed at all on the whole package was to drill new holes in the front shock tower for the inner camber link locations to suit my track setup better. And the only other thing I will do is dye the white battery box parts black - only because I prefer the "all business" race look to the "vintage style" of the white.
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  23. #103
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    What motor are you running on your Rustlers? I'm finding that it's hard to go lower than about an 8.5T motor, as you really can't gear it lower than about 16/84(87?) pinion/spur. This is barely low enough for my 8.5T motors, so going to something like a 6.5 or 7.5 isn't working for me.

    I'm switching to a 4-pole motor in my Slash, hopefully that gives it enough torque to run cool enough without having to go lower in gearing.
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  24. #104
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    What motor are you running on your Rustlers? I'm finding that it's hard to go lower than about an 8.5T motor, as you really can't gear it lower than about 16/84(87?) pinion/spur. This is barely low enough for my 8.5T motors, so going to something like a 6.5 or 7.5 isn't working for me.

    I'm switching to a 4-pole motor in my Slash, hopefully that gives it enough torque to run cool enough without having to go lower in gearing.
    That's both interesting and confusing to me at the same time. For my wife's truck, its only ever had the XL5/Titan in it, and so far I've had it geared at 86/17, 86/18, 87/18, and 87/19 with no real heat issues on either the ESC or motor. I'll be trying 84/19 and 84/20, probably this weekend for the first time, which will be unknown territory for me with this combo. After that I'll be using a 13.5T setup and I'll probably start out with gearing in the 81/22 - 81/24 range.

    For my truck, I've run my 7.5T Reedy Sonic Mach 3 for the last two years or so, and typically run 84/18 or 84/19 depending on which of the two tracks near me I'm running on. But I've had it as (numerically) high as 84/20, and as low as 84/17. With any of those ratios, I've never had any real heat issues that gave me cause for alarm. About the closest I can remember was being on the outdoor track in the summer heat (100 degrees plus air temp) where I could only run for about 5 minutes at a time before motor temp got to my max limit of where I let it get - about 160. Otherwise, I can, and typically do, run a good 15 plus minutes at a time without issues. As a footnote to that regarding timing - I've never touched the factory setting of 20 degrees on the motor, and have only ever run an additional 15 degrees of turbo (full throttle only) timing through the ESC. I've also always run the factory fan on the ESC, and an RPM trans case with the aluminum motor plate, which I believe helps quite a bit - and as I can recall, you do as well. So, as close as our setups have always been, I'm still a bit baffled by your experiences with temps.

    P.S. - After typing this, I started to think about some of the other ESC settings. I also run the lowest settings for throttle and brake frequencies, as well as the highest setting for the power profile (speed junkie, remember ). While this makes for a very aggressive throttle/brake response, it does keep temps much lower than softer settings that offer more control. I wonder if this is where the difference may be.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-24-2018 at 12:36 AM.
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  25. #105
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Thanks for your data points, I was trying to figure out if this was something wrong with my truck or something inherent to the Rustler. I generally get to about 145-150 degrees running a full shorty pack (8.4V running down to about 7.6V), drivetrain is free, but I've been running a sealed 9.5T motor at 87/16. It's possible that the sealed can just runs hot, but with my 4-pole at 87/17, it was still about the same temps.

    Drivetrain seems to spin fairly freely with the pinion removed, but I'm going to go through the whole drivetrain again and check every bearing.

    Thanks. I'm running stock transmission case though, maybe it's just the metal motor plate that helps yours run cooler.
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  26. #106
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Thanks for your data points, I was trying to figure out if this was something wrong with my truck or something inherent to the Rustler. I generally get to about 145-150 degrees running a full shorty pack (8.4V running down to about 7.6V), drivetrain is free, but I've been running a sealed 9.5T motor at 87/16. It's possible that the sealed can just runs hot, but with my 4-pole at 87/17, it was still about the same temps.

    Drivetrain seems to spin fairly freely with the pinion removed, but I'm going to go through the whole drivetrain again and check every bearing.

    Thanks. I'm running stock transmission case though, maybe it's just the metal motor plate that helps yours run cooler.
    Anytime, Razor. I did go back and check your build thread and saw you were running the stock case after I posted that - I just couldn't remember. That will make a little difference on the long runs - not night & day, but it'll take about 10 degrees off, which does help. If you like the stock case, maybe try one of those STRC aluminum heat sink spacers.
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  27. #107
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Yeah, Iím thinking even just the flex in the plastic motor mount is enough to put extra drag on the motor and probably contributes to more heat. Run my pinion/spur as tight as possible while still having the smallest amount of play. When it flexes, that play probably goes to zero.

    Iíll look into the RPM case or maybe the hot racing one.
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  28. #108
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Yeah, Iím thinking even just the flex in the plastic motor mount is enough to put extra drag on the motor and probably contributes to more heat. Run my pinion/spur as tight as possible while still having the smallest amount of play. When it flexes, that play probably goes to zero.

    Iíll look into the RPM case or maybe the hot racing one.
    Good point, I replaced mine so long ago on all my families trucks just for the advantage of the heat dissipation, that I never even thought of that. Both the RPM and the HR have advantages/disadvantages, depending on application. In the end I came to the conclusion that the RPM case had more advantages for a track application than the HR, but that tends to come down to personal choice. I don't have any direct experience with the HR case, as I have only used the RPM. But should you decide to get the RPM case, let me know before you install it and I can fill you in on some of the things that I have learned over the years that will help get the most out of it.
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  29. #109
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Well I made to the indoor carpet track again this past weekend with both trucks, and had a great time. The small changes I made with the front springs and the sway bar linkages worked out well - handling-wise the truck was absolutely dialed in. The gearing change helped a little, but still wasn't enough. I ran one full battery with the 19/84 combo, and temps were no worse than with the 87T spur gear that was on it the last time I was at the track. So for the next two packs I had 20/84 in the truck. Speed seemed better, and finally, it would hit top speed at the end of the straight (instead of the middle) just coming into the braking zone. Still not what I would call fast, but certainly respectable, considering it's brushed setup. It never ceases to amaze and impress me just how tough the XL5/Titan setup is, and how much abuse it can take. For the second run I dug through my pit box and found some foam battery spacers so I could try it out with a shorty pack in it. I used my lightest Protek 3600mAh 100C 2S pack that weighs 158g and still had the 22g brass weight taped to the bottom of it. Even with the punch of 100C on demand, the XL5 just kept on going (and going, and going...). The lighter weight of this battery setup didn't do a whole lot for speed, but boy did this truck fly! I actually had to be very careful on the double climbing step-up double jump, or this truck would severely over jump it and then be looking at the wall at the end of the track. Handling/steering with this lightweight setup was just incredible. The chassis and steering rack package works so well that this truck will easily turn a complete 180 degrees within its own wheelbase - even at speed. After 3 full 15 minute runs (one with the shorty pack) geared at 20/84, both the XL5 ESC and the Titan motor came through unscathed and undamaged - good to go some more.

    I did go over the truck quite thoroughly at the end of the day, as I pushed it, and jumped it, pretty hard. Once again the SRT-R Factory Works chassis and all of the other components held up extremely well - no damage, no broken parts, no loose hardware, and no leaks from the trans/diff or shocks. And speaking of the shocks... With this lighter weight chassis, the modified Ultra's appear to have finally found their calling. They absorbed the harsh hardwood floor landings of the carpet track every bit as smoothly as anything else I've seen run there - something they could never seem to master on a heavier setup.

    The upcoming electronics changes to my truck will still lead to an eventual conversion to a brushless setup on my wife's truck, but after seeing its performance this weekend, and having a blast with it just the way it is, I certainly won't be in any hurry.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-27-2018 at 03:08 PM.
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  30. #110
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Thanks for your data points, I was trying to figure out if this was something wrong with my truck or something inherent to the Rustler. I generally get to about 145-150 degrees running a full shorty pack (8.4V running down to about 7.6V), drivetrain is free, but I've been running a sealed 9.5T motor at 87/16. It's possible that the sealed can just runs hot, but with my 4-pole at 87/17, it was still about the same temps.

    Drivetrain seems to spin fairly freely with the pinion removed, but I'm going to go through the whole drivetrain again and check every bearing.

    Thanks. I'm running stock transmission case though, maybe it's just the metal motor plate that helps yours run cooler.
    I think my diff gear was disintegrating and causing drag, because it broke last time out and I had to rebuild my ball diff. Now with an STRC motor plate, it's running at about 135 degrees at 17/87 gearing on a 9.5t motor. So all seems fine now, thanks.
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  31. #111
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I think my diff gear was disintegrating and causing drag, because it broke last time out and I had to rebuild my ball diff. Now with an STRC motor plate, it's running at about 135 degrees at 17/87 gearing on a 9.5t motor. So all seems fine now, thanks.
    That's great news! Well, sort of, anyway - sorry to hear about the diff gear, but I'm glad you found the root cause of the problem. Also glad you're trying the STRC motor plate. I haven't used one myself, but I've heard a lot of good things about it from other guys I know that have, that use the stock case as well. The temp seems perfect for the ratio your running, and should give you a little wiggle room with gearing selection, if needed.
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  32. #112
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    So I'll be off to the indoor carpet track again this weekend with this truck as well as mine. The gearing experimentation will continue as I push the limits of the Titan motor further and further. When I was there last the truck was at 20/84 and did quite well, as speed seemed okay and temps were still reasonable. This time out I'll be starting at 21/84, but that will be about the limit of pinion gear changes. Since the truck will now at least hit top speed by the end of the straight, I'm thinking any more on the pinion gear side will now probably start to bog down the bottom end and acceleration too much. So, after that, I'll play a little with the spur gear side of the gearing. The smallest spur gear that I currently have for the Associated clutch setup is an 83T Precision Designs gear - but, obviously, one tooth on the spur won't do much. I plan on getting an 81T gear at the tracks' hobby shop while I'm there and trying that out. Ultimately I'll need this size gear anyway, since I plan on starting the gearing at 22/81 or 23/81 range when I change to the 13.5 brushless motor in this truck. That ratio (10:1 - 9.57:1) should be a good place to start with a 13.5T motor for this relatively small to medium sized track. With an adjustable brushless motor, I'll also have the ability to play with timing settings on both the motor and in the speed control to fine tune power/speed as needed.

    We'll see how the Titan/XL5 does with that, power and temperature wise. Even if i wind up at 21/81 (10.47:1 ratio), I think it will be just fine, given how its been so far. One thing I remembered when I first got my truck with this motor - when it came out of the box, it was geared from the factory at 16/90 (15.28:1). With that gearing running up and down the street in front of my house at full speed repeatedly, it got hotter doing that then its ever been at the track.
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  33. #113
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Just a quick update on the trucks performance from this past weekends track test. I never did get the 81T spur gear to try, as I changed gearing at the last minute before I left for the track to 21/83. I figured I'd start out there first, and adjust as needed after saw how the truck reacted. Temperature-wise the truck was fine with this setup - it actually ran cooler than with the previous gearing combinations. The 12T Titan definitely seems to like running with a smaller spur gear - even on a relatively short track. While top speed was really good, as I suspected, with that large of a pinion, bottom end was bogging down a bit and seemed a little sluggish. That wouldn't have mattered much except for a couple of spots with some smaller doubles that had no run up to them to gain momentum, and that made it difficult to clear them cleanly. Ultimately, I wound up changing back to the 20T pinion and leaving the 83T spur. I ran two more packs with this gearing, including a run with one of my 100C shorty packs, and performance was really good. It might do (slightly) better with a 20/81 setup, but I was pretty happy with it's overall performance on the last two runs with the gearing I had, so I just left it and enjoyed myself.

    A couple of final notes... Motor temperatures coming off long runs with either of the two gear ratios I ran that day were only 120-130 degrees, and the XL5 was barely above room temperature. So clearly, the XL5/Titan combo can handle some really tall gear ratios. Although, it should be noted that it does like smaller spurs to accomplish that. And for a reference on performance - I wound up running with a lot with a guy that had an Associated B6 buggy with a 17.5T/Blackbox 800Z brushless setup and overall performance of the truck was quite similar. He had a small advantage in straightaway top speed, but gave up a little in the short sections. As we ran together on various parts of the track, he couldn't catch me unless I made a mistake, and I couldn't catch him unless he made one.

    Overall I think that's a pretty positive result, and good comparison. And with that, I won't be making any more changes (gearing or otherwise) until a brushless system gets installed.
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  34. #114
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That's fantastic! Thanks for the update. What a fun adventure to partake in.

    Have you looked at the weight for the Titan versus a BL motor? It looks like you may have some weight savings on the way if/when you go BL.
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  35. #115
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Have you looked at the weight for the Titan versus a BL motor? It looks like you may have some weight savings on the way if/when you go BL.
    As a matter of fact, I have looked at that. The scale that I was using finally died after many years of use, so I wasn't able to weight the Titan, but with a little research, I found out it weighs 240 grams - ouch! With most of the newer racing type brushless motors coming in at about 170 grams, I'll save at least 70 grams for that alone. Many of the even newer generations of ultra light weight racing motors are now 145-150 grams - so if I go that way, potentially, I could reduce weight by as much as 90-95 grams! Not only is that a huge weight savings, but remember that it all is coming off the extreme rear of the truck, so weight distribution will also get some big benefits.

    I figure the larger XL5 ESC will wind up being about the same weight as a smaller brushless one, given that most of those will have a fan and a much thicker (heavier) gauge wire. So weight loss/gain for the ESC change should be very minimal - at least I don't anticipate much difference - maybe +/- 5 grams.
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  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    As a matter of fact, I have looked at that. The scale that I was using finally died after many years of use, so I wasn't able to weight the Titan, but with a little research, I found out it weighs 240 grams - ouch! With most of the newer racing type brushless motors coming in at about 170 grams, I'll save at least 70 grams for that alone. Many of the even newer generations of ultra light weight racing motors are now 145-150 grams - so if I go that way, potentially, I could reduce weight by as much as 90-95 grams! Not only is that a huge weight savings, but remember that it all is coming off the extreme rear of the truck, so weight distribution will also get some big benefits.

    I figure the larger XL5 ESC will wind up being about the same weight as a smaller brushless one, given that most of those will have a fan and a much thicker (heavier) gauge wire. So weight loss/gain for the ESC change should be very minimal - at least I don't anticipate much difference - maybe +/- 5 grams.
    Nice. Thats something to consider about the weight. I own a couple cars which I wish had more 50/50 weight ratio. Especially with my crawler.
    Anyway, I also have a Rustler and I recently added the mid motor Chuckworks Rusty2 Chassis to my build. (Well, still building it). But I'm hoping it help with some of the weight ratio.
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  37. #117
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Nice results FTD!

    I do have to take a slight differing opinion about B6 performance similarities though... assuming equal driver ability and equal tuning ability (me), my 17.5t B6 was WAY faster than my Rustler. But it's always fun to show those guys that just buying a "racecar" doesn't make you fast.
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  38. #118
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxxas9008 View Post
    Nice. Thats something to consider about the weight. I own a couple cars which I wish had more 50/50 weight ratio. Especially with my crawler.
    Anyway, I also have a Rustler and I recently added the mid motor Chuckworks Rusty2 Chassis to my build. (Well, still building it). But I'm hoping it help with some of the weight ratio.
    I've seen your build thread - very nice truck. I considered the Chuckworks chassis for the Rustler, but I decided against it for my purposes. Even though it seems pretty balanced front to rear, it looked like the center of gravity would be too high for my track applications.

    Keep up the good work, and enjoy the building/learning process, as that's half the fun.
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  39. #119
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Nice results FTD!

    I do have to take a slight differing opinion about B6 performance similarities though... assuming equal driver ability and equal tuning ability (me), my 17.5t B6 was WAY faster than my Rustler. But it's always fun to show those guys that just buying a "racecar" doesn't make you fast.
    The performance similarities were only in reference to speed. The guy with the B6 was decent at the controls, but not nearly as experienced a driver as myself. At the hands of some of the more experienced locals at the track, the B6's that run there (as with most of the buggy's) tend to run a full 1-2 seconds faster lap time than any of the stadium trucks, mine included. Just nice to have the immediate comparison, and to know that the brushed setup in my wife's truck could hold it's own compared to a mild brushless system in terms of speed.
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  40. #120
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    653
    The next evolution of my wife's truck has arrived! I received a few things last week that I ordered for my truck (I'll have an update on that a little later) so I was able to move my old ESC to her truck along with a new brussless motor. Now her truck has a nice 13.5T Maclan MRR motor and my old Reedy Blackbox 1000Z speed control installed in it. Here's how it looks with the latest electronics.



    I did manage to get these things installed before the weekend, so I had an opportunity to get to the track and test them out. I started with some pretty conservative gearing, so I could monitor temps and adjust as needed. The motor was set at the factory with timing at 50 degrees advanced! It was obviously setup with a buggy in mind, so I timed it down to a more stadium truck friendly 36 degrees and started with a 23/81 pinion/spur combo. It ran really well with this, but I could tell that I was not getting near the power that this setup was capable of. Temps came off at 127 degrees for the motor and 98 degrees for the ESC after 15 minutes on the track. So, after that I knew I had a ton of room to play with, and immediately changed to a 25/78 gear combo, and after another 15 minute run temps came in at 138 degrees on the motor, with the speed control at 99 degrees. The truck had plenty of speed and good power overall with this gearing, only lacking slightly in bottom end grunt. With still a little room to work with temperature wise, I didn't want to go any taller with the gearing, as I felt it would loose too much bottom end, so I timed it up to 44 degrees advanced. This worked really well and brought the motor to life. Now it had both some decent bottom end grunt to pull itself over the short run up doubles, and good top speed for the straight. It came off the next 15 minute run with temps at 146 degrees on the motor and 102 on the ESC. Since this seemed to be a really good balance to me of performance to temps, I left it there and ran 2 more battery packs after that to verify consistency. Both times temps remained the same, and the motor showed no signs of any fade.

    I still haven't replaced my old scale that died, so I couldn't weigh the truck, but this motor weighs 170 grams according to Maclan - so, 70 grams lighter than the Titan. The Blackbox ESC with its fan and thicker wire felt about the same weight to me as the XL5, maybe 5-10 grams more - so overall I figured the truck is at least 60 grams lighter with this new brushless setup. I also ran only my shorty packs all day, which are about 50-60 grams lighter than the standard, long 2S LiPo's I normally run in her truck. So from the previous weight measurements, I figure the truck is running about 1,850 grams in its current form. I could definitely tell the difference, and if anything, I felt it needed a little ballast weight added to lower the CG a tad If I were to continue to run on the carpet.

    And speaking of that... With outside temperatures finally starting to cool down a little, next up for this truck will be to pull the sway bar off, change the wheels and tires, adjust the springs and hit the dirt! This upcoming weekend is unfortunately out, as the outdoor track is having their big annual Off Road Shootout race starting tomorrow and going through Sunday. That should be fun, and I'll probably stop by on Sunday for the mains (have to work this Saturday). It will be nice to see most of the top drivers in country in action live.

    Here's one parting pit-side shot showing some more de-stickering of the ProGraphix (still really don't like this body) practice body, although now proudly displaying a nice Maclan decal on the wing.

    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 09-27-2018 at 11:32 AM.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

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