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  1. #1
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    Front left drift at take off corrected

    a huge thanks to Steve at Traxxas Support!!!
    he was nice enough to email me the instructions for performing the stick calibration procedure for the Aton controller. I did the factory reset, performed the stick calibration, re-performed the various calibrations, then put it to the test. in fast or expert mode... I can now gradually increase throttle at take off in both modes, it lifts up perfectly level.

    I spent some time today with my new Traxxas 4000mah 25C batteries, and I love them! a very good balance between the 3000/20C and the more expensive 5000/20C. I did not time my flights, but they were long, and I landed with three bars still showing on the Tx.

    I worked on figuring out the rates I need and I ended up at 80/80 in expert mode. nice smooth transition to inputs in wide banking turns, and not touchy at all now. big smooth loops are a breeze. the rotation rate is a little on the light side for me, but I was still able to double flips and double rolls from about 50 feet up without timing the throttle as ,long as I was ready to kick it up as it came back level. works for me and I now have a base line to work with.

    a very productive flying day!
    Fly fast, Fly hard, and forget about the outcome.

  2. #2
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Glad you got'er on the level. Steve is THE best.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Glad you got'er on the level. Steve is THE best.
    he most definitely is!

    lift offs are absolutely flawless and smooth now... thanks to him.
    Fly fast, Fly hard, and forget about the outcome.

  4. #4
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    Had a very minor crash and my Aton now drifts just the slightest in the nose direction. The propellers have blemishes and only a couple nicks. Could this be the cause? I also calibrated the accelerometer and the whole process was kind of loose-goosey. You have to hold it in the positions and click the button. I'm a bit of a percectionist and wonder if just the slightest tilt while calibrating could also be the cause. I don't exactly remember how static the hover was like pre-crash, but shouldn't I expect the Aton to hover in the same place continuously without having to touch the flight stick? Like I said, this is a slight drift. Most people probably wouldn't care. Am I possibly being too critical?

  5. #5
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    it depends on which flight mode you are referring to? in film mode where its position is maintained by GPS, yes, I would expect it to stay in one place with little to no movement. in fast mode, the same when air brakes are used. keep in mind though that winds, no matter how well your GPS functions, if significant enough, winds will play a factor in its stationary position. in expert mode, no. it is complete and true free flight unless the air brakes are on, and even then, I personally don't expect the air brakes to keep it perfectly still. I see it moving a little when I use them, but it never deviates more then a few inches. me personally... there is no such thing as a heli or quad that hovers totally and completely still, with or without technology. as long as it is stable enough to give me time to react... I am good.

    my observation of the calibrations are that the quad has a margin of error factored in. the app seems to know when it is level enough for the process or not. as long as the app says that it was successful, it was. the designers know that no one could hold it in those positions and be completely accurate while trying to hit a cell phone tab. I can tell you that mine, after going through ever one of them before flying, and after the stick calibration... it was flawless.

    yes, nicks and dings in the blades can have a negative effect. nicks and dings result in imbalances. one side being lighter than the other, affect to air flow across the lifting surface of the blade (or blades) that create uneven lifting from one corner to the other, or even causing the electronics to perceive that corrections are needed when they actually are not. so sure... it could be behind your issue. I nicked mine just very lightly on the ends the last time I lifted off before the stick calibration, and I could actually hear the blades making noise in flight.

    if it is resulting in damage, no, not too critical at all. in my case, it was causing me to over correct on lift off and I was damaging a set of front blades every time I tried a slow lift off. it didn't bother me to pop it in to the air, but it wasn't just that. it had a forward drift like it was nose heavy and that was causing me issues in flight with proper stick management on long banked turns. I knew it was stick calibration, because every time I let the right stick go to center, it would start to move nose down and forward just a little.

    no one ever said whether or not the other calibrations were needed when doing the stick calibration, but it makes sense to. changing the calibration of the sticks can easily change how the electronics respond to it. I did the factory Tx reset first, then stick calibration. I don't think the three app calibrations are needed in any specific order, and I just did them in the order I saw them.
    Last edited by spoonerrw; 01-22-2017 at 04:14 PM.
    Fly fast, Fly hard, and forget about the outcome.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by logankyte View Post
    Had a very minor crash and my Aton now drifts just the slightest in the nose direction. The propellers have blemishes and only a couple nicks. Could this be the cause? I also calibrated the accelerometer and the whole process was kind of loose-goosey. You have to hold it in the positions and click the button. I'm a bit of a percectionist and wonder if just the slightest tilt while calibrating could also be the cause. I don't exactly remember how static the hover was like pre-crash, but shouldn't I expect the Aton to hover in the same place continuously without having to touch the flight stick? Like I said, this is a slight drift. Most people probably wouldn't care. Am I possibly being too critical?
    What is a "percectionist" ?

    northern Vermont

  7. #7
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Perfectionist
    The Super Derecho

  8. #8
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    spoonerrw,

    Thanks for your detailed response. It was very helpful and greatly appreciated.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by logankyte View Post
    spoonerrw,

    Thanks for your detailed response. It was very helpful and greatly appreciated.
    You are very welcome.

    Were you able to get the calibrations done with the instructions I sent you?
    Fly fast, Fly hard, and forget about the outcome.

  10. #10
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    Hi spoonerrw, is it possible (where) to get the ''Stick calibration'' procedures ?
    Should be a good thing to do that once on my Aton transmitter Sticks, isn't it ?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigeraton View Post
    Hi spoonerrw, is it possible (where) to get the ''Stick calibration'' procedures ?
    Should be a good thing to do that once on my Aton transmitter Sticks, isn't it ?
    WILL it be exact same calibration as the LaTrax Alias (you posted on Febuary 17, 2015) ?!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigeraton View Post
    WILL it be exact same calibration as the LaTrax Alias (you posted on Febuary 17, 2015) ?!
    the calibration procedure is the same, but accessing it is different than the Alias...
    to access it...
    -hold the throttle stick in for 2 seconds to access the menu.
    -click in 4 times to get to the menu that says "reset".
    -push and hold the Aux 2 button and the light "+ or -" (either one) for 5 seconds until you see the "CC" appear.
    -push the Aux 2 button to begin.
    -the calibration procedure is the same as the Alias from that point on.

    honeslty, if you are not having any issues with how yours fly's, no, I would say not to bother with doing it.
    Fly fast, Fly hard, and forget about the outcome.

  13. #13
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    Thank you !

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoonerrw View Post
    the calibration procedure is the same, but accessing it is different than the Alias...
    to access it...
    -hold the throttle stick in for 2 seconds to access the menu.
    -click in 4 times to get to the menu that says "reset".
    -push and hold the Aux 2 button and the light "+ or -" (either one) for 5 seconds until you see the "CC" appear.
    -push the Aux 2 button to begin.
    -the calibration procedure is the same as the Alias from that point on.

    honeslty, if you are not having any issues with how yours fly's, no, I would say not to bother with doing it.
    Turn on the transmitter

    Press and hold the throttle stick (left stick) for two seconds to access the Menu screen

    Click the throttle stick four times until the Reset menu shows on the screen

    Once you are in the Reset menu press and hold the AUX 2 (right) button and the right light button (up or down) for 5 seconds or until CC appears on the screen.

    Make sure the throttle stick is in the down position

    Click the right AUX button to begin the re calibration procedure



    Left (Throttle) stick calibration



    (Please excuse the symbols. They are all intended to represent what you see on the screen and are by no means exact.)

    When the screen displays ^ move the left stick up as far as it will go. Leave it there and click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays |_| move the left stick down as far as it will go. Leave it there and click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays [ move the left stick to the left as far it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays ] move the left stick to the right as far it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.



    Right (Cyclical) stick calibration (This is the same procedure)



    When the screen displays ^ move the right stick up as far as it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays |_| move the right stick down as far as it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays [ move the right stick to the left as far it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.

    When the screen displays ] move the right stick to the right as far it will go and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.



    When the screen displays 0 make a full circle (all the way out to the stick limits) with the left stick and release it. Click the right AUX button.



    When the screen displays 0 make a full circle (all the way out to the stick limits) with the right stick and release it. It will return to center. Click the right AUX button.



    The Transmitter will exit calibration and exit the reset menu. It will display the 00 disarm screen.

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