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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Cool Vintage airplane build.

    Thanks to Dave (dave00bear) for his help, and thank you for reading my thread. This will be a thread to mark transformation progress and any issues, questions, I may have.

    Vintage 3601 stampede, I plan to hop up heavily and bash just as hard as any modern RcMt, big jumps mostly. If this makes any vintage enthusiasts cringe just remember, it's just a stampede, not a sledgehammer.

    Firstly some stock pictures. I broke a pushrod shortly after putting in the electronics. I was originally thinking the body would be a throw away but it actually looks pretty good in person. This build is going to have a really nice before and after pic once I get everything planned done: 2.8 tire setup (duratrax any good?), full rpm suspension with wide mod, aluminum parts where/when needed, rpm slash rear bumper and wheely bar.

    Some first day hop ups. Hubs with bearings, castor blocks. I wanted the trx castor block but they were on back order.

    Big upgrade from the stock mini bushing setup.

    I plan on doing some jumps on a mellow 20t brushed set up to find all the weak spots and wean out the old fatigued parts. Then I'll update/replace the transmission and go brushless. Broke a driveshaft on my first time launching a jump with it shortly after starting my third pack LOL. Split it in two places, it think it was because I landed WOT.

  2. #2
    RC Champion dave00bear's Avatar
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    Sweet man! Glad to see your getting good use out of it.
    My previous sig conflicted with a forum policy.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Would I use #2362 shock rebuild kit and can I upgrade to aluminum caps? Or are the grey bodies threaded differently than the black bodied shocks?

  4. #4
    RC Champion dave00bear's Avatar
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    Yep your good, The black shocks are still ultra shocks, all parts that fit the gray ones are interchangeable.
    My previous sig conflicted with a forum policy.

  5. #5
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    Happy to see your receiving great use in return.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Thanks its good fun. This is my second electric and first 2wd rc.

    Turns out the extra ultra shocks from my parts maxx is the same length as the rear stampede. Softer spring, more firm oil, its nice. With the front I'm still best just rebuilding the stocks, or maybe trying to Frankenstein a set...
    However I did notice that the GTR shock from the parts Revo is the right length but the spring is much too stiff. Might work for a speed run rustler or if there is a much softer spring that fits.
    Last edited by IanRose; 02-10-2017 at 01:53 AM.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I have decided that pro8 buggy 17mm wheels and tires are what im going with. What is going to give me better front end geometry:

    Stock width front end, with offset adapters in front and zero offset adapters rear

    Or wide front end mod and zero offset adapters front and rear.

    Both will give the same track width but will have slightly different turning axis. What one is the better working option?

    Thanks ahead for any advice.
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  8. #8
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I've ordered some Chinese zero offset adapters and I'm going to do the wide mod based on rustler threads on buggy tires. Will get traxxas adapters if these fail.

    ˇˇ!!ˇˇRIGHT NOW I NEED HELP!!

    There is a tiny philips screw inside the end yoke that holds the drive shaft to the differential, how do I get that screw out? Do I have to pop the drive shaft into pieces?

    I also cant figure out how to get the screws out that hold the rear camber links on. The two that go into the rear bearing carrier and the two that go into the chassis. All stuck bad, all philips, not stripped but at risk. tips needed. Ive been slowly switching the pede to hex metric but these have been the only stock screws I coudnt get out.
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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I got the side of the caber links that attach to the chassis off, I already have upgraded bearing carriers so I might as well get some adjustable links too, the rear could use more camber anyway.

    A little update of that driveshaft.. Ended up cutting the yoke on the already broken side to get to that screw, it's in a terrible place.

    Looks like I'm going to need some different differential parts to put the slash 4x4 shafts in.

    that little divot on the out put shaft is not a through hole. The pin from the new axle will not a place to go through.
    I wanted to get a complete updated trans/diff with metal gears and bearings but I was hoping it could wait a few weeks :|
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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Yeah, my stampede has http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ20&P=V LXJJ20 diff shafts from the Rad and Hawk 2, so old. screw Goes through the front instead of a screw pin through the side. Tower still calls this a replacement for the pede, that is wrong. I could in theory, drill through it. I might glue the shaft on and buy a new one when i get the new trans haha,

    Got my 17mm adaptors, zero offset. They're going to work great on the rear. I'm going to get some 1/8bug wheels in and see if there is room in the front with out steering clearance issues. If there's clearance, great, then rpm wide arms. if there isn't then stock width rpm arms and I'll have to see my options for offset adaptors, I think I'll be fine, I believe they clear the 4x4 on zero offset.

    Very pleased with the monster jam style body post, big improvement over the ugly bendy one piece stock one.
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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I got the newest style diff with the long output shafts, half plastic, metal geared on top. Made an interesting discovery about the trx-1 era, its metal geared. The old diff is heavy, made entirely of metal. Im going to add some bearings and see what these old alloy gears can take. This truck is full of surprises.
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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Even though the new diff had more plastic, it had larger parts made of a heavier steel, and actually weighed more.
    -



    The entire truck has bearings wherever you can put them. Cleaned off the mystery metal gears. Tower had this to say about this era transmission: "All these gears and shafts are made of metal(probably with a low amount of steel)." Doesn't give me great confidence.

    Full rpm suspension now, ran extra long screws and backed them with m3 nuts all throughout the suspension. Still have stock bulk heads, still need a rear bumper mount and motor guard, and i need a new front bumper now too. Probably going with the Traxxas monster truck style.


    The achilles heel of my project: https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...nk-rodend-woes
    -


    Need to find a good toe link setup.

    edit: and it looks like forum member kwkenuf has found something that look promising in the wide toe link department.
    Last edited by IanRose; 03-25-2017 at 04:24 PM.
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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    The good news is even with no front bumper the bulkheads are holding fine. See first clip:



    However, with the exception of a few more parts in the mail I can't really do much more to it, body I guess.. New tires won't make a difference unless there is more power, can't really do many jumps at 20 mph. Finally time to get the brushless stuff picked out. I think i know what system I want but I'm on the fence about 2s vs. 3. I want lowend and punch, have the power to be able to loop out at speeds. I think i'm might have to go 3s to get enough punch to pop some back flips, but I don't really need the high range speed.
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  14. #14
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    Ha! I didn't actually read through this thread until now. I have a vintage Pede also in addition to the new one I am doing the wide mod too. I went through the whole rear end debacle like you... I opened up the tranny thinking it had bushing, but it already had bearings. Then I popped a yoke assembling it. I ended up updating most everything to be BL ready. I did update all the wheel bushings with bearings, and yes I got the small 5x8 bearings, still works great. Nothing suspension wise yet, but I do have front camber links, and I need to rebuild the shocks. I will replace/upgrade as the kids break stuff. I did a hack-n-whack on the body mounts to lower it, made a huge difference in the looks department.

    Hey a heads up for when you try to put a lipo pack in your old chassis.... these old ones have ribs in the bottom of them to conform to the Nimh packs of old. These ribs will not allow a lipo to sit nice and flat. You will need to get rid of the ribs somehow. Mostly I have seen people grind them out. I am probably going to throw mine in a Bridgeport at work and mill them out, or simply get a new chassis that does not have them to begin with. I will be watching this thread more closely now!

    Pic of mine with the lowered body...


  15. #15
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I like the old stampede body, it reminds me a lot of a generation 2 Dodge ram. Youve also got that clean custom bumper.

    Aside from the mystery metal gears, the transmission had full lead and brass bushings, it drove like it had a drag brake at first. It also didnt have a slipper clutch stock, I had to add one. Im using the basic one from a tmaxx, it works good enough for me but its hard to get the spur gear to sit perfectly straight. The spur could be bent. I Had do do some grinding on the spur cover to clear the 4x4 hd shafts and a lot of grinding to get the cover to fit around the Heavy duty camber links. The camber links now sit real close to the driveshaft but there is still a good mm or two of clearance and thats plenty. The truck drives better with good amounts of camber and the hd links look better. I already ground the stick battery mounts out. Need too see about the battery expansion kit.

    I switched to the adjustable traxxas mounts and they sit much lower, they are also stiffer by design. I've found a way to mod them to go even lower but im going to hold off on that untill I get a new body. My pink body is full of cracks and It pulled through all four body post holes bad, even with the body washers.
    Last edited by IanRose; 03-26-2017 at 11:41 AM.
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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    first stampede session in a wile, 2 minutes in I was taking a blind turn and hit this random large rock in my yard. finally broke the stock bulk head and got the RPM one.

    rebuilt my shocks again with trx alum caps and added the bumpers. I'm very impressed with the traxxas monster bumper. The rpm motor guard and traxxxas bumper mount combo looks like it should do okay, but the strength of the rpm guard is dependent on two 3mm screws...
    Felt confident and jumped the high side of my porch. landed it 5 or 6 times, no broken parts but i ripped the antenna out of my receiver. no big loss.. 15 year old AM tq3 radio from a t-maxx.

    There are a few video clips i will post probably tomorrow, nothing special, just basically testing the jumpabilty of the truck. Needs more power that's for sure, soon enough.
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    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Got my new radio and screws and other small stuffs.

    Motor started smoking today. Its not geared wrong or binding I was just driving it too hard. Because it's so slow I've basically just runing full throttle for the whole battery. Long grass on a hot day. Im thinking of keeping it 2s but im not sure what brushless set up is right for me.
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    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Totally abusing a P2de. IanRose, you are crazy. Are we related?
    Obstacle Magnet

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    Totally abusing a P2de. IanRose, you are crazy. Are we related?
    Maybe, I dont seen as many hard bashers as I used to! Maybe rcs are more expensive than the nitro truck days. I got the pede becase its somthing cheap I can huck over a gap and see what happens. The first roof drop session was kind of lame but the second one was much more satisfying. It only goes like 20mph right now so I need to make things interesting some how lol, probably jumping out of the second story window soon.
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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Maybe, I dont seen as many hard bashers as I used to! Maybe rcs are more expensive than the nitro truck days. I got the pede becase its somthing cheap I can huck over a gap and see what happens. The first roof drop session was kind of lame but the second one was much more satisfying. It only goes like 20mph right now so I need to make things interesting some how lol, probably jumping out of the second story window soon.
    Throw a Mamba X with a 2200kv motor on 3S and you can get major air from off the ground!
    Obstacle Magnet

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Rats, my esc died! All the brushless combos that come with easy-pay on tower are all too high kv for 3s. Id hate to get a 2s system and still be bored. Idk, can you backflip on 2s with like 4800kv or something? The Kershaw gen 6 combo with a 2300kv looks like a good 3s option for $99.
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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Bummer 'bout the ESC, but still, killing RC parts is a bit of an accomplishment nonetheless.
    Obstacle Magnet

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    With a good brushless setup, geared properly and a 2S lipo... you can backflip. But more importantly, you can actually drive the truck. Many will disagree, but IMO 3S is too much unless ALL you want to do is back flip or pull wheelies all day. The Traxxas brushless system is a good one. don't write it off just yet. But the Castle Sidewinder 3800 combo is crazy good on 2S. Ive never been a fan of the 4600kv combo in a stampede.

    Ive got a stampede just like what yours started out as. I bought it a few years ago brand new in a box, unbuilt. I have a thing for stampedes so I built it, painted the stock body just like it shows on the box and found a full set of era correct electronics for it. It now sits on a shelf beside my all original first gen Sledgehammer. The coolest thing about the stampede is that it is, essentially, the exact same truck as that very first model (obviously with many tweaks but all the parts are upgradeable).

    IMO youd be better to go with a wide front a-arm setup and equal offset hubs or wheels VS a narrow front end and wide offset hubs. On the other hand, I think going with buggy wheels is a mistake. The tires on a stampede soak up ALOT of impact when your landing big jumps. If you go with buggy wheels and tires youve lost all that cushion and you WILL end up braking alot more stuff... including the wheels likely.

    Don't get a battery expansion kit. Its not necessary. Get the ESC plate from a new style stampede. It mounts over the rear of the battery and has room enough for your ESC and RX (in a waterproof RX box if you decide to go that route). It really is the best place to mount stuff on a stampede.

    Also, if your looking for ULTIMATE durability, get a set of slash 2X4 RPM skidplates. The rear mounts up exactly as stock, the front requires a few holes to be drilled but makes the truck infinitely more durable. Also, look at getting 2X4 slash front and rear bumpers from RPM. They stick out a long way, but they protect the truck so much when your really smashing the crap out of it. They're worth their weight in gold IMO.

    Finally, your motor is cooked. If you got it so hot it smoked, its likely garbage now (more than it was before it smoked). Just ditch the brushed stuff and go brushless. Once you have it running youll kick yourself for not doing it sooner.



    Last edited by pavmentsurfer; 06-16-2017 at 10:44 PM.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Thanks for tthehe reply pavement surfer. I love how your pristine old stampede looks, mine was already roughed up when I got it. I love the old style pede body, 2.2 tires and black parts.

    Your input about 2s was useful. I think I want to try the duratrax 3900 combo. Its appears to be a relabled castle slightly over priced, [edit, its ver over priced compared to a sidewinder might wait for the 3800 castle to be in stock] but tower offers it with 3 pays of 43.33. Works better for me becase I have an anniversary with my girlfriend in a few weeks rather pay for rc stuff after.

    I thought about slash bumpers but eh.. Bulky. The micro receiver is tucked behind the steering servo. Not water proof but I think its safe where it is. Im now using velcro strap for the battery. I've replaced the whole suspension front and back at this point, full rpm and wide mod. Id love the racer look with buggy wheels, but I think they'd be more appropriate on a 4x4 slash. Sticking with 2.8s.

    Side note, not sure why the esc died. It worked the night before. Not exactly sure why the motor burned out either. Sure I was hard on it but it was a 20t and geared low, should have be fine. The esc is a mystery age it could be decades old for all I know. But the motor was bought new and I even broke it in on 3volts, unexpected but not a major loss. Was hoping to save the brushed setup for a solid axle monster truck but oh well.
    Last edited by IanRose; 06-17-2017 at 01:33 AM.
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  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I bought an rpm slash bumper and did not like how far it stuck out. So I cut right across the 2 rear most screw holes and slid it back mounting the front front holes in the bumper into the rear holes of the bulkhead. Drilled 2 new holes in the bumper to mount into the front of the bulk, and trimmed the part of the bumper that I cut:



    Best pede bumper I've ever owned (even though it's on my slash buggy now)

    2s can make the pede backflip. If your not getting it all the way around, gear up a little and you'll get more chassis rotation...
    Last edited by rag6; 06-19-2017 at 11:04 PM.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Rag6 I see what you did there that is a really good idea. Basically just slid the whole thing down so its lower and closer.

    To-do list almost done. Transmission, Chassis and suspension are good, although I bent a shock shaft and I can't get the rod end off the shaft... It just keeps spinning and wont come off... Might have to find the part number for the baby rodends for the shocks.

    The reveiws for duratrax brushless arent that good. The castle sidewinder and Kershaw systems both have good reviews and a similar price. Id give the traxxas system a try if I find a deal on it.
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Rag6 I see what you did there that is a really good idea. Basically just slid the whole thing down so its lower and closer.

    To-do list almost done. Transmission, Chassis and suspension are good, although I bent a shock shaft and I can't get the rod end off the shaft... It just keeps spinning and wont come off... Might have to find the part number for the baby rodends for the shocks.

    The reveiws for duratrax brushless arent that good. The castle sidewinder and Kershaw systems both have good reviews and a similar price. Id give the traxxas system a try if I find a deal on it.
    To get that shaft out, you can always remove the C-clip off the top of the piston or cut the end off with a rotary tool. In other words, get more aggressive. Both parts are ruined anyways.
    Obstacle Magnet

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Vice grip the shock shaft, and use a driver through the rod end to spin it off
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    If you try rag6's method, you may need to tilt the shaft in the rod end to get the groove of the screw to grip the munched plastic to work its magic and come out.
    Obstacle Magnet

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    This guys been sitting since i burned out the esc. Ive been working on a 2.2 scale mud truck out of a 1.9 crawler. While i was painting the chassis for that i put it electronics in the stampede.

    I tried really hard to front flip it knowing i woulnt have a chance to run it for a wile. Becase its brushed i used a quarter pipe with a 4 foot drop on the other side giving me about 7 feet of air. Unfortunately it was a paved landing... After several trys trying to film the flip i told my friend " If you stop recording i bet ill land it" and sure enough did it that try with no video to proof it. Hit the ramp at top speed locked the brakes and it came all the way around landing HARD on the rear. All the sudden i had rear steer... Completly broke the rear skid and cracked an rpm rear shock tower.

    Amazon goods on the way! Fake stampede body, vxl tires, strc alum rear skid. If you dont have a good shop near by, and you dont have an amazon prime account youre fricken up.

    Update pics coming soon but they arent anything special. Might be easier if i judt do a video walkthrough of my set up.
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  31. #31
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    It's good to see you're still bashing around. I look forward to your video if that is what you choose to do!

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    It's good to see you're still bashing around. I look forward to your video if that is what you choose to do!
    Got everything in the mail. Shes done. So that setup video
    Should be up soon. Once i fix the spur.... Lol never ends.

    Ive killed two 48p spurs and a pinon. Im on my last basic plastic 48p spur and i have a replacement OEM pinon coming prime. Im going to blame the first two spurs on a bad slipper but after that im going to have to look at something differnt.. 32p??

    2s 3000kv gearing setups. If i do a search ill find hundreds, but let me know whats a good one, not too tall maybe a little higher then stock.
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  33. #33
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Dude, your bashin is ballistically delicious. I thought I bashed my rcs...no.

    Someone else needs to advise on gearing, I haven't experimented with that yet.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Dude, your bashin is ballistically delicious. I thought I bashed my rcs...no.

    Someone else needs to advise on gearing, I haven't experimented with that yet.
    I need to get a memory card for more beat down vids. i got the pede to back flip off the roof in post 17.

    As for the gearing, used http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html to find a good 32p ratio.

    But theres a catch, my stampede is old, it came with no slipper. It now uses the slipper clutch found on nitro stampede and og tmaxx. The nice part is that it works with other brand spur gears. The problem is that most of the spurs ideal for the stampede are for the torc slip. I have a like new torc slip from my revo parts, and it works well would proably solve my stripping problems.

    Buttttt my stampede shows its age again with another trx1 hawk style part. I need a differnt slipper shaft. A $3 part that requires me to take my whole rear end apart. Fun times.
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  35. #35
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Lets take a moment to talk about how i destroyed my truck on a gap with no video to proove it, i also sent it before i took picture of my completed truck. Bent all four shock shafts and broke the front shock tower, litterly the last non rpm or aluminum part left. We can also talk about those $20 pre painted traxxas bodys you find on amazon. The fit is perfect. The lexan is super thin, and the stickers are funky non licenced. Im sure traxxas, monster, and redbull would not approve. Monster 4x4 vxl anyone? Luckly plastic canvas and shoe goo reapair bodys soo good. Almost looks good as new aside from the scratches, and these were major rips.

    Ironically i just gave a forum member back flip advice a few days ago. I was a dummy and should have known better, but i got the fevor and kept sending it. Heres what i did wrong.

    1. Cold moist tires. 2wd need allll the grip they can get to backflip. It wasnt really hooking up that day. I really should have a soft tire setup for on road and wooden ramps. (Anyone know a currently avaible sticky 2.8 for smooth surfaces?)

    2. Too long of a gap, i could make the flip or I could jump the gap. Back flips tend to give you more height off the ramp but dont carry theirs distance long. Front flips work better on long gaps.

    3. Too fast. Litterly not following my own advice. Its hard to swing a back flip at speed. You need to have some extra punch avaible when you launch off the ramp. Gearing higher might have helped here but I just switched to 32 and only owned one ratio. I just orderd a 15t pinion to pair with my 56 spur

    4. No video. Actually got a front flip over the fence, but did you see it? Nope, i broke all those parts for my personal enjoyment


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  36. #36
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    So.... can someone explain to me why this is an airplane?
    Guess who's back.
    Back again.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkletron View Post
    So.... can someone explain to me why this is an airplane?
    Yeah, it's because his Stampede flies...you may need to see the videos/pics.

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkletron View Post
    So.... can someone explain to me why this is an airplane?
    This truck is just for jumps. I upgraded the chassis and suspension and just recently got a brushless in it, im going to film a montage over the summer.

    Tempted to just get a few nice flip videos then converting it to a rustler for more long distange big air jump set ups.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  39. #39
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Dear. all

    I want upgrad my car to get more speed and more control. so what I can do it ??my package is $400

    For 1/16 Ken Block Rally VXL 4WD Brushless RTR Rally Racer w/TQ 2.4G…

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by concorde View Post
    Dear. all

    I want upgrad my car to get more speed and more control. so what I can do it ??my package is $400

    For 1/16 Ken Block Rally VXL 4WD Brushless RTR Rally Racer w/TQ 2.4G…
    Well my stampede has never driven in strait line and probably never will. Plus i run a diff thats about to blow out so i have a nice gear sound when I give it speed. SO I AM DEFFINATLY THE RIGHT PERSON TO ASK. Ah you you want to point the front of your rc off a building, and pulk the triggger. the 1 16 rally is a little low for a ramp so just drive right off the roof.

    In all seriousness you can get info for the rally vxl here:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/forumdisp...rd-Mustang-302

    Also information for the 1/16 revo forum could be useful for you:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/forumdisp...Slash-VXL-4WD&
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

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