Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 51
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11

    Revo slipper clutch in my Slash 4x4

    Hey guys, I'm doing the revo clutch upgrade while I'm swapping out my motor to a funny car 2400kv. I got my truck for Christmas, and the stock slipper pads were already fried. I upgraded to the HR alum motor mount and alum bearing support. What is everyone doing to take up the end play in the slipper assembly? It has pretty good front to rear movement. Is the movement more from the revo clutch, or the alum bearing support? Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    607
    you might be using the wrong hole for the pin in rhe clutch. i think the revo clutch requires using the second hole

  3. #3
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Deep in the Everglades
    Posts
    1,291
    I went to the maxx disk brake pad, its thicker
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    635
    Quote Originally Posted by SL4SHGT8BASHER View Post
    you might be using the wrong hole for the pin in rhe clutch. i think the revo clutch requires using the second hole
    I had this same problem. The inner hole is the answer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    Welcome to the Traxxas forums.

    Matts75 and I came up with the same solution to our problem... spare bearing to use as a spacer!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    That's the hole I'm using, the other one has no tension on the clutch after tightened down. Squeegie where are you guys putting the bearing? I looked at my spur gear last night, from the wear pattern on it, it has the same amount of movement. Was you able to get yours setup with out much play? Thanks for the welcome ans the advise.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    We simply put the bearing on the end of the shaft to get rid of most of the front to back play.

    Your problem may be different since you have no tension on the clutch.

    Please post a pic of your slipper assembly so we can figure this out and get you back out and having fun.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,216
    I have a question? I have run many different motor systems in Slash 4x4 trucks. I have run 3 and 4s. I have never felt the need for a different slipper clutch. Can someone please explain why to me?
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    Quote Originally Posted by Pay2Play View Post
    That's the hole I'm using, the other one has no tension on the clutch after tightened down. Squeegie where are you guys putting the bearing? I looked at my spur gear last night, from the wear pattern on it, it has the same amount of movement. Was you able to get yours setup with out much play? Thanks for the welcome ans the advise.
    Here's a pic of the bearing/spacer (courtesy of MikeMcE):

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    I have tension after I put the pin in the inside hole, it just has a little end play. El Sob I'm new to this, so all I can say is "I read it on the internet" ..

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    Glad you figured it out!

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  12. #12
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    Thanks Squeegie, I'll give that a try. I've only had my truck a couple months, but when I first tried a 3s battery it barly pulled itself. Had to get going before I could give it any throttle, and doing this it got to where it wouldn't pull itself. I could smell something hot, so I thought my esc was going into thermal protection, but no blinking lights. Tightened down my slipper and it woke up. Still sounded like it was slipping when I was running it in the grass. Plus when I ran it on the road with a 3s battery and stock gearing it wouldn't wheelie. Are the 4x4's harder to wheelie? My son's 2wd will do it at will. When I took it apart the pads were coming apart. That's the main reason I thought I would go a head and upgrade the slipper to the E-revo.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    2WD rigs pull wheelies easily because their motors are in the rear. Our 4WD Slashes are better balanced, but can pull off wheelies if set up right. You should be able to pull them off with no problems since you are running a 2400kV motor.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  14. #14
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    I haven't ran it yet, in the process of installing it and moving things. Should be a lot of fun with it over the stock 3500. I decided to try the 2400kv for something that will run cooler on 3s. My temps were getting hot. I added a temp sensor and it would run 180-190 playing around in the yard and gravel. One time it got just over 200, didn't have my app turned on.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    What gears will you be running? 20 or 21/50 should be fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  16. #16
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    I left the stock 54 spur in it, and was going to try the 18t pinion and see how it did and how the temps were. What gears do you recommend with the 2400 motor? I guess if I put the 13t pinion back in, it would have more torque.

  17. #17
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Deep in the Everglades
    Posts
    1,291

    Revo slipper clutch in my Slash 4x4

    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I have a question? I have run many different motor systems in Slash 4x4 trucks. I have run 3 and 4s. I have never felt the need for a different slipper clutch. Can someone please explain why to me?
    Too much power and traction melted my spur running aluminum pads

    This is why I started running the T Maxx brake disk (4964)as a clutch pad.... all I need and cheap
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RRgaAgaW8P8HAQ

    I also beat this truck, power wheelies at 45mph on pavement or limerock puts amazing stress on things, a loose slipper is a no no

    Hang up and Drive
    Last edited by MikeMcE; 03-03-2017 at 10:21 PM.
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Brossard, QC
    Posts
    1,211
    Wow this get me thinking the ALU pads might not be very good, even though it grips alot. I just did the Maxx disc on my E-Revo.



    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    +1 on the T-Maxx brake disk!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    +1 on the T-Maxx brake disk!
    Me too. Got tired of cracked or broken pads, the disc has been maintenance free.

  21. #21
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Deep in the Everglades
    Posts
    1,291
    I average about 15 full 3s packs before it glazes and needs a switch. I keep 3 or 3 on hand.
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,216
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    Too much power and traction melted my spur running aluminum pads

    This is why I started running the T Maxx brake disk (4964)as a clutch pad.... all I need and cheap
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RRgaAgaW8P8HAQ

    I also beat this truck, power wheelies at 45mph on pavement or limerock puts amazing stress on things, a loose slipper is a no no

    Hang up and Drive
    Have you seen any of my videos? I run my trucks hard and often! I usually run my trucks six to seven days a week and I only run 3s. I still have the original slipper clutch and pads that I got on my truck from Christmas 2015. I haven't had any problems with it. Just seeing if I am missing out on something.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  23. #23
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Deep in the Everglades
    Posts
    1,291
    Yep, and that's why I was clueless. IMHO I think it's the 2650 vs the 2400 you run.
    I tried all the factory parts and was met with cooked parts. I run a lot of limerock and cannot run primes on my 2wd due to eating transmissions.
    I even have a RR 32p like I need on my Yeti. The simple brake disk and large backing plate work great and are cost effective.
    I do glaze it due to slippage, but that saves other parts.


    Hang up and Drive
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  24. #24
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Brossard, QC
    Posts
    1,211
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMcE View Post
    Yep, and that's why I was clueless. IMHO I think it's the 2650 vs the 2400 you run.
    I tried all the factory parts and was met with cooked parts. I run a lot of limerock and cannot run primes on my 2wd due to eating transmissions.
    I even have a RR 32p like I need on my Yeti. The simple brake disk and large backing plate work great and are cost effective.
    I do glaze it due to slippage, but that saves other parts.


    Hang up and Drive
    You might want to tighten the slipper a bit more if you keep burning your slipper. That's really the only reason why you go through them... Slipping too much.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  25. #25
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Deep in the Everglades
    Posts
    1,291
    Yes it slips, and I can control it..... I prefer the clutch to be soft, vs burning


    Hang up and Drive
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  26. #26
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    You guys running the 2400kv motor, what gearing are you running? With that gearing what is the torque and top speed like?

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    7,577
    When I had the 2400kV, I ran it 18/54 with 3S and got it to 38.8mph in thick, medium cut grass:

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5884721
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  28. #28
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,969
    I bought a Tmaxx disc #4964 to go on my Revo slipper. I opened up the holes so it would fit flat on the plate. When I installed the slipper assembly something seemed to bind up when I slid the rear assembly on......made it impossible to set gear mesh. I pulled it apart a couple times. Without the motor engaged it felt very notchy while turning the slipper assembly. Very strange. Pulled it back apart and reinstalled the aluminum pads and it fell right back together as always. Ideas?
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  29. #29
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    I started with 18/54, and out on the road it hit 38-39 mph. My stock setup with 13/54 gearing hit 42 mph. I beat on it pretty good with a 3s battery, and it didn't get close to getting hot. I've added the traxxas gps module and temp sensor to monitor things. It has good power taking off from a stop if you mash it, but doesn't seem to have the same as stock. I may try to gear it down some and see what that does. I don't really go for speed runs, just bash around in the yard. Thinking about trying something in the middle of 13/54 and 18/54. Maybe 15/54 or 14/54. Doesn't really matter what spur size is as long as your final ratio is the same correct? Example 13/50 and 14/54 are pretty close.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,216
    Quote Originally Posted by Pay2Play View Post
    I started with 18/54, and out on the road it hit 38-39 mph. My stock setup with 13/54 gearing hit 42 mph. I beat on it pretty good with a 3s battery, and it didn't get close to getting hot. I've added the traxxas gps module and temp sensor to monitor things. It has good power taking off from a stop if you mash it, but doesn't seem to have the same as stock. I may try to gear it down some and see what that does. I don't really go for speed runs, just bash around in the yard. Thinking about trying something in the middle of 13/54 and 18/54. Maybe 15/54 or 14/54. Doesn't really matter what spur size is as long as your final ratio is the same correct? Example 13/50 and 14/54 are pretty close.
    What lipos are you running? That seems a bit slow for the 2400 motor geared 18/54. If I'm not mistaken that is just about the stock motor geared 13/54. I am currently running 2400 motors in all of my Slash 4x4 Ultimate Edition trucks. I race with a group of friends several times a week and my trucks get off the line faster by far!
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  31. #31
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    I was running a 3S Lectron Pro 5200 50c that I got at my lhs. I did run it the night before after I got everything installed to test it out. The voltage was down to 11.1 when I made the runs. I would think that would still be enough voltage to make it fly. I have a couple 3s smc Tru Spec 5200 90c batteries that I haven't tried out yet. I do have one charged and ready to go.

  32. #32
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    So I ran my smc battery. I was able to hit 42 mph more than once running 18/54 gears. It was even doing some wheelies at times. Never been able to get it to wheelie before. I broke a rear axle before I got the battery ran down. I guess I will order me some MIP axles..

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    870
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    I bought a Tmaxx disc #4964 to go on my Revo slipper. I opened up the holes so it would fit flat on the plate. When I installed the slipper assembly something seemed to bind up when I slid the rear assembly on......made it impossible to set gear mesh. I pulled it apart a couple times. Without the motor engaged it felt very notchy while turning the slipper assembly. Very strange. Pulled it back apart and reinstalled the aluminum pads and it fell right back together as always. Ideas?
    This happens because the brake disc is thicker than the original pads. There is not enough play left forward/backwards on the slipper shaft, and the shaft then pushes the diff pinion towards the diff ring gear.
    To solve this, simply take the slipper clutch apart and grind the brake disc a little thinner (about 0.5mm) with a coarse sand paper on a flat surface. It's easier to grind down the brake disc if you leave it on the pressure plate while grinding.

    I'm not sure everyone experiences this problem, but I had the same on both my Stampede 4x4 VXL and Slash 4x4 when installing the brake disc onto the HR slipper (#TRX15GP).
    Last edited by Viking; 03-08-2017 at 03:10 AM.

  34. #34
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,969
    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    This happens because the brake disc is thicker than the original pads. There is not enough play left forward/backwards on the slipper shaft, and the shaft then pushes the diff pinion towards the diff ring gear.
    To solve this, simply take the slipper clutch apart and grind the brake disc a little thinner (about 0.5mm) with a coarse sand paper on a flat surface. It's easier to grind down the brake disc if you leave it on the pressure plate while grinding.

    I'm not sure everyone experiences this problem, but I had the same on both my Stampede 4x4 VXL and Slash 4x4 when installing the brake disc onto the HR slipper (#TRX15GP).
    That makes sense and sounds like exactly what was happening. I was in a hurry to get it back together so I didn't spend much time investigating. I'll sand it a little and pop it back in. Anyone know the thickness of the stock pads when new? All I have now is some worn aluminum ones to compare to. Thanks for the help!!
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    635
    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    This happens because the brake disc is thicker than the original pads. There is not enough play left forward/backwards on the slipper shaft, and the shaft then pushes the diff pinion towards the diff ring gear.
    To solve this, simply take the slipper clutch apart and grind the brake disc a little thinner (about 0.5mm) with a coarse sand paper on a flat surface. It's easier to grind down the brake disc if you leave it on the pressure plate while grinding.

    I'm not sure everyone experiences this problem, but I had the same on both my Stampede 4x4 VXL and Slash 4x4 when installing the brake disc onto the HR slipper (#TRX15GP).
    I'll have to keep this in mind. I have the tmaxx brake pad and the HR slipper. What spur gear do you use? When I lined up the HR slipper to put together with my 54t spur hear the three wholes didn't line up. The HR slipper's wholes were closer to the center. Any ideas?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    870
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    That makes sense and sounds like exactly what was happening. I was in a hurry to get it back together so I didn't spend much time investigating. I'll sand it a little and pop it back in. Anyone know the thickness of the stock pads when new? All I have now is some worn aluminum ones to compare to. Thanks for the help!!
    You are welcome!
    The stock alu pads are 2.5mm thick whereas the T-Maxx brake disc is 3mm.

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    870
    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxBash View Post
    I'll have to keep this in mind. I have the tmaxx brake pad and the HR slipper. What spur gear do you use? When I lined up the HR slipper to put together with my 54t spur hear the three wholes didn't line up. The HR slipper's wholes were closer to the center. Any ideas?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That's strange. Mine did line up perfectly, both with the stock 54T spur gear and the 52T (#6843). Are you sure you have the TRX15GP double up slipper assembly?

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    635
    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    That's strange. Mine did line up perfectly, both with the stock 54T spur gear and the 52T (#6843). Are you sure you have the TRX15GP double up slipper assembly?
    Yea I just had to check Amazon account. HR Double slipper trx15gp and traxxas 4954 tmaxx brake disc along with the stock 54t spur....ill check it out when I get home today. Just found it odd.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  39. #39
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
    Started putting the MIP axles together last night, man are they beefy. Could they use anymore set screws in them? I soaked them in blue loctite, so hopefully they will stay put. Is it a good idea to go ahead and order some replacement set crews and pins?

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    635
    Quote Originally Posted by Pay2Play View Post
    Started putting the MIP axles together last night, man are they beefy. Could they use anymore set screws in them? I soaked them in blue loctite, so hopefully they will stay put. Is it a good idea to go ahead and order some replacement set crews and pins?
    Better safe than sorry haha with that said I need to order some just in case as well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •