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  1. #321
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    Thanks for the info DgeChrgr, it’s appreciated!
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  2. #322
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    Sorry, double post
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  3. #323
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    I forgot to mention i put both buggy and truggy M4 2.2 primes on the Faultline wheels to try. I think the buggy tires will be too low profile to be useful (low ground clearance) but I will try them. I'm using the M4 compound because they are the softest of the two choices.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  4. #324
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    Thanks again, I’ll amend parts list then!
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  5. #325
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    OMG!

    So this guy came down (to South Carolina) from North Carolina with his Slash-based street eliminator looking for somewhere to race. He came to our late night race spot to hang-out/race with us. I lined up with him to do some hits.

    THIS GUY HAS THE FASTEST ELIMINATOR I'VE SEEN TO DATE!!!!

    He beat me like 4 or 5 times in a row. AND he gave me the break each time.

    Much respect for the Bisquick car (because that Bisquick).


  6. #326
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    Any info on his setup? I just finished up a car using the same body with the belted pro-lines.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  7. #327
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about his set-up, but I have seen that wing before:



    https://www.facebook.com/pg/Undercov...0471538/posts/

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  8. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    Any info on his setup? I just finished up a car using the same body with the belted pro-lines.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    Here's what I know....

    LCG Slash chassis, Corvette C7 body (obviously), stock Slash shocks, YES, "STOCK" Slash shocks, Fantom motor, Hobbywing ESC, 1.7"x2.5" rear wheels. The rear wheels provide a smaller roll-out than the typical 2.2"x3.0" SCT wheels, which get you off the line quicker.

    That's all I got....

  9. #329
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    I wonder if he's using a slipper or not. I believe in using them because if you can get it to take off smooth and straight without long wheelies you'll win 9 times out of 10. I just put a Pro-Line wheelie bar on my car mostly for looks. I can get it to take off without excessive wheelieing (?) but as the clutch grabs it goes!

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  10. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    I wonder if he's using a slipper or not. I believe in using them because if you can get it to take off smooth and straight without long wheelies you'll win 9 times out of 10. I just put a Pro-Line wheelie bar on my car mostly for looks. I can get it to take off without excessive wheelieing (?) but as the clutch grabs it goes!

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    Definitely NOT using the slipper.

    Using the slipper is the slow way to go (in my opinion).

  11. #331
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    The angle of the picture I took doesn't show his wheelie bar, but it's there. And it gets utilized.

  12. #332
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Any slipping is lost power and time in drag racing. I understand your point, but come up against a guy with a good setup and throttle control, and you are slower

    Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  13. #333
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    I got in touch with a local group that has a race monthly, i'll get a chance to see how my ideas work on the 30th. I have different cars to set up different ways.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  14. #334
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Found another picture of Cody Offenbacker’s rig:


    https://m.facebook.com/cody.offenbac...3D&mdp=1&mdf=1
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  15. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Found another picture of Cody Offenbacker’s rig:


    https://m.facebook.com/cody.offenbac...3D&mdp=1&mdf=1
    Yeah! That post is talking about his week long adventures here in the lowcountry. After the first night I met him, I took him around to a few of our 'secret' test/tune spots. He is one of the coolest guys, too.

    He made me want to step-up my game a little. He is VERY meticulous about his eliminator set-ups. While we were at the spot where he broke their track record, he made adjustments throughout the day & wrote them down in his notebook. He says he'll be ready the next time he races there with the right set-up from the start.

  16. #336
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    No one seems to post in the Traxxas 4-Tec forum so thought I'd ask here. Can anyone tell me if the ProLine Nova body will fit on the 4-Tec? Will the Pomona wheels and Hoosier tires fit on it as well? Thanks.

  17. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55Chevy View Post
    No one seems to post in the Traxxas 4-Tec forum so thought I'd ask here. Can anyone tell me if the ProLine Nova body will fit on the 4-Tec? Will the Pomona wheels and Hoosier tires fit on it as well? Thanks.
    No it won't. The 4Tec is a different (shorter) wheel-base than an SCT (for which the Nova body is designed).

    Hope you didn't drop the cash on one yet.

  18. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I don't know anything about his set-up, but I have seen that wing before:



    https://www.facebook.com/pg/Undercov...0471538/posts/

    Have fun!
    cool !!!

  19. #339
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Ok...after following this thread for the past year, and even having made a few posts, I've finally decided to "get in the game". Yesterday, I made a trip up north (approx 90min each way), to Jake's Performance Hobbies, and picked up my 'starter kit' - a Bandit roller w/ Slash LCG chassis pan, JPH wheelie bar, the Pro-Line adjustable body mounts, and a Maclan DRK160 ESC (it was either the DRK, or an R1 Works Digital -3, but 1) Jake didn't have any R1s in stock, and 2) he said the DRK had been seeking like hotcakes since they arrived last week - sold his entire shipment (40 units) in under a week...with me getting the last one).

    The plan is to start the build by replacing several stock items with aftermarket parts. Among the first replacements will be the trans, which is to be replaced with the Pro-Line PRO-Series 32P trans. Also on the starting list are the front/rear shock towers (to be replaced with carbon fiber towers), the front bullhead (to be replaced with a DRC Zero Degree front bullhead, servo (probably worth a Hitec, my favorite "go-to" brand), and steering bell crank set (probably DRC, or STRC).

    However, I do have some other upgrades in mind, but could use a little help in figuring them out. I don't want to "highjack" the thread...but, at the same time, since I'm only looking for simple answers to (what I'm going is) some simple questions, I'm just going to ask here.

    1) Regarding the shocks, is it best to stick with the stock 'Ultra' shocks, and just replace the cap with the optional aluminum caps? Or, are different shocks a better/smarter choice...and, if so, which (ie. GTRs, Pro-Line ProSpec, etc)?
    2) Regarding mounting the ESC, does anyone (Traxxas, or 3rd-party) make ESC mounting plates (preferably carbon fiber, but plastic is 'acceptable') that can be mounted using the stock screw locations (please, list manufacturers & part numbers)?
    3) I'd like to upgrade the stock driveshafts (Bandit length). I know MIP has their X-Duty offering, but that's too heavy. What options are there that are lighter than MIP's X-Duty CVD, but stronger than the stock units?

    I realize there's a lot more to focus out (spur/pinion gearing, fluid weights for the diff & shocks, spring rate(s) for the shocks, what body to go with, etc), but those are all things I'll be focusing our on my own and/or with a little help from others...but, did the three questions, above, since so many in here are already familiar with this type of conversion/setup, I thought I'd check with "those in the know".


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 11-19-2020 at 01:55 PM.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  20. #340
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    #1, most use front shocks on the rear. Heavy oil,
    I've used all styles of Traxxas shocks, Losi buggy shocks, Pro-Specs and Powerstrokes. I don't see much of a difference. I like to use a lighter oil on a bumpy track. Generally run 50/60w.
    #2, I make a lot of my own from sheet carbon fiber, there are companies that make them on printers and sell carbon fiber plates too.
    #3 I use Integy axles, they are half the cost of MIP and I have not had any problems so far. They are in high demand and not always available. Integy offers two varieties, their more expensive ($40) are in stock now. Aftermarket bandit axles have not become that popular, yet.

    Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk

  21. #341
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    #1, most use front shocks on the rear. Heavy oil,
    I've used all styles of Traxxas shocks, Losi buggy shocks, Pro-Specs and Powerstrokes. I don't see much of a difference. I like to use a lighter oil on a bumpy track. Generally run 50/60w.
    #2, I make a lot of my own from sheet carbon fiber, there are companies that make them on printers and sell carbon fiber plates too.
    #3 I use Integy axles, they are half the cost of MIP and I have not had any problems so far. They are in high demand and not always available. Integy offers two varieties, their more expensive ($40) are in stock now. Aftermarket bandit axles have not become that popular, yet.

    Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk
    Are those Integy driveshafts steel, or aluminum? I can tell the collars are aluminum, but I'm regretting to the telescoping parts, and the axle stubs. The less expensive ($33) units almost look at of they're entirely aluminum. Gotta ask, especially considering Integy is known more as a "bling" company, and not a company that makes quality, long-lasting components.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 11-19-2020 at 05:47 PM.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  22. #342
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    They are aluminum, I believe where the "u joints" are assembled with the pins are steel. I've bought the cheaper axles up to this point. Just ordered a set of the $40 axles because that's all that was available now. If I start breaking them I'll upgrade to MIP but other than stock not much else out there. I've thought about cutting down some other brand telescoping type Slash shafts but haven't yet.

    Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk

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