Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 342
  1. #41
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Rural MO ... in a haunted garage
    Posts
    313
    There are some really nice lookin' Quarter-Milers here. I just wish a bunch of us lived closer together.
    I re-built my old RC12e into a Pro-Street truck last year, even got a DTS-1 .... but I'm at least 10 miles from the nearest parking lot, and I don't know of any other RCers for at least 40 miles.
    But that doesn't keep it from being lots of FUN.



    I wish I had a group to race with like rs' has in Hawaii.
    Tober, keep up the good work, you'll get it dialed in.

    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  2. #42
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    Dr. F., that's one good lookin' truck...and a pretty cool photo too. Wow, 12e. I actually had one of those way back when first started rc. I'm caught between doing a muscle car or truck for my next drag Slash body. Gotta get it to run quick first. Bummers you're so isolated from other rc'ers. We only have organized off-road, crawling, drifting, and our drags out here. I have to fly over 2700 miles to run on-road so don't feel so bad. And yes, it's all about the fun.

  3. #43
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    That truck looks sick!!! Excellent job!.

  4. #44
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Rural MO ... in a haunted garage
    Posts
    313
    Thanks guys, It's one of my favorites, for sure. She runs a TQI/TSM with all the basic telemetry, 3-ch so I can switch the headlights and taillights on and off. I've added a few more things since that pic. .... I soldered up a set of shorter wheelie-bars, carved a scoop out of balsa (magnets make it removable), added more interior details. Here's a recent shot.



    She only runs about 25-mph right now. I know I could easily change gearing and get more top-speed, but I like the wheelie launches. And when she's not going to "the track", the 'bars and scoop come off so we can do this ....



    The boat is RC too. They're here in the mini-Summit section.

    Back to the subject of this thread, Tober, your Cutlass is looking better and better. Let's see more.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  5. #45
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    That's too pretty to drive. Very nice work!

  6. #46
    RC Qualifier broitsseth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    wherever i decide to be
    Posts
    432
    i remember seeing that boat build looks good with your truck!
    cool ain't cheap -Dan Dreger

  7. #47
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    We run this Sunday so hopefully will get test and time slips with my drag bug. If I'm lucky maybe a video too.

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Rural MO ... in a haunted garage
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by rskoncepts View Post
    That's too pretty to drive. Very nice work!
    Thanks, but after the third roll-over I had to repair the 'rash on the roof and tailgate. I like 'em to look nice, but I like to run 'em now and then too. But my test-track is mostly the rural highway, so with big ones topping the hill at 60+ mph, it can be tricky at times. There's a ride-along fpv video where the pinion gear comes loose and I nearly run over myself and end wheels-up in the ditch.

    Quote Originally Posted by broitsseth View Post
    i remember seeing that boat build looks good with your truck!
    Thank you, I actually started building the truck FOR the boat, then it kinda took on it's own personality. But I stuck with the matching paint scheme.

    And rs', that Bug is sweet.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  9. #49
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Got more parts today, still waiting for the RPM cage for the esc and the traxxas connectors. Programmed the esc,

    It's getting close


    Last edited by Tober; 03-17-2017 at 06:14 AM.

  10. #50
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    Looking good Tober! Agonizing isn't it waiting for each new piece.

    Hoping to do some serious testing this weekend with gearing and maybe different cc 4pole motors.

  11. #51
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Hamilton NJ
    Posts
    48
    Some people recommend this so they can lock three diffs http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FQZYDQodwfkIBg
    Ps the set up looks good!

  12. #52
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Morehead City, NC
    Posts
    6
    RS, we can't prep the track but can prep tires. What exactly is the "Paragon and Trinity additives?" Something you can buy or do you mix it up. I'm having issues with foams on the treated asphalt "black painted" surface, it's slick!
    So I got some proline G-locks to try out as my dirt slash sticks on this surface well with the proline goose bumps. Gonna tape the inside to prevent ballooning. If I can treat the rubber and get it stickier it think that would work pretty good.

  13. #53
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Morehead City, NC
    Posts
    6
    Tober, what are you using for front wheels on your build?

  14. #54
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    G, the additives soften the rubber. Make sure you get the one for rubber because there is foam versions. You could try Simple Green also.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTHP7&P=ML
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEZJC&P=7

    Shark, yup I use the spool. Works good.

  15. #55
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by Gstumpe View Post
    Tober, what are you using for front wheels on your build?
    There pro line prime front tires for a bandit



    The rims i have are to thin i think. I have to run the nut all the way done and there is to much play in the wheel. Ill look for different rims once i actually get to do some test hits.

  16. #56
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    I took so more picture so i could do a before and after of the LCG chassis


    Before



    After



    I shaved the rear wheel well so i could drop the body a bit. I think in the future im going to get the wheels that go in the funny car so i can lower the body a bit more.

    Also i picked up some 500k diff oil but i think im just going to get a lock spool for the rear


    I looked at the slipper clutch and noticed there is material missing from the pads so ill be looking to upgrade the slipper. I was thinking something like this

  17. #57
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rskoncepts View Post
    Looking good Tober! Agonizing isn't it waiting for each new piece.

    Hoping to do some serious testing this weekend with gearing and maybe different cc 4pole motors.
    Yes its killing me, i ordered the rpm esc cage on amazon and there was a issue, so i had to reorder it should be here next week. The traxxas connectors are coming today so it should be alive tonight. Unfortunately we are supposed to be another 2-4 inches of snow toady into tomorrow. So no runs.

  18. #58
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Has any one ever use a heat gun to form a Lexan body? I want to widen the back to get the wheels in the wheel wells

  19. #59
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rskoncepts View Post
    T, looking sick! Where you put the OBA is where I put weights. I need to make a plate so it'll be easier to move/change depending on the track conditions. How wide it that body at the rear wheel opening?
    It about 12 inches at the rear wheel wells. I need 12.5 to get the wheels in

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,809
    I'll be running carbon fiber pads today on 6s. I'll report back how they hold up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  21. #61
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    I just ordered these tires, there 2 inches wide and should fit nicely in the wheel Wells


  22. #62
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Rural MO ... in a haunted garage
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Tober View Post
    Has any one ever use a heat gun to form a Lexan body? I want to widen the back to get the wheels in the wheel wells
    Yep, when I did one, I used a block of wood sized and shaped to hold the fenders wider, then CAREFULLY and evenly heated the area I wanted to re-shape. I needed a bulge in my Revo body, it worked pretty well. If you have an old body, you might try it first to get a feel for it. Too much heat will warp it really fast.
    If you're only needing 1/4 in. on each side, you might just glue a stiff wire inside the body, bent to spread the fenders a little. I did that to my truck, behind the wheels, all it needed was about 1/8 on each side. I put fuel line over the wire in the fenders, to keep it from scratching the paint inside. My truck has NO rear suspension, so I can keep the body close to the tires.
    You'll need to watch the offset of those new wheels too, that will change the rear track width. My experience tells me 2 inches of flat tread should hook up well. Mine will carry the front wheels for the first 10 ft. or so.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  23. #63
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Well i finally got to take it out for some test hits. The car definitely doesn't like 3000 mha batteries, absolutely dead on thoses. Did much better on the 5000mha. After having a issues with my 25 tooth pinion( the set screw wont tighten almost like a stripped screw) i put the 23 tooth in with the 75 tooth spur. Its fast but there seems to be a delay on full power of the line. Ill have to see what thats all about.

    The car is very stiff on the rear suspension, hit a few bumps and it just bounces which is ok. I never put the new springs that came with the LCG chassis and after these test hits ill be putting them in.

    The OBA definitely sucks battery from the car, so i wont be using in any more. Ill leave it in for weight.

    Otherwise not too bad, if i can figure out the hesitation off the line it will be a quick car. The motor didnt even get hot at all so im guessing i can play with the gears some more.

  24. #64
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    You had more success than I did. Decided to try a smaller pinion and just couldn't contain the power. Ended up with 10oz on the front and it would just pull the front too hard even without reapplying traction. Gotta wait another month for the next outing and switch back to the larger pinion.

    T, I'm using 58/20 with a higher kv motor. I haven't had a chance to test the 3800 that you're running so can say what gearing to use.

  25. #65
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    There's something upwith the esc. It's ramping up the power instead of just going to full tight off the bat

  26. #66
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    T, I'm assuming the esc combo is new and you haven't changed any of the settings? What is the C rating of your batteries and I'm assuming they are in good health? Have you checked the slipper (that was my problem when I started adding power). I currently use the metal pads and heavy spring.

  27. #67
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    I'm running the 7 cell 5000mha batteries, I went into the programming but maybe there's something I missed. I started thinking slipper clutch as well so I'll check that tonight.

    I'm sorry but I don't know C rating is. Could you explain that to me

  28. #68
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    Sorry, forgot you're running Nimh batteries. You need to turn of the Lipo cutoff. That's probably why your 3000mah gave you fits. The CC stuff usually comes Lipo ready. Even with Lipo batteries I turn off the Lipo cutoff because I usually use less than 10% of the battery per outing. Anything more I'll charge. Also Start Power should have been set to Low. If not put it to Low. Every setting has a default choice (marked by the *) you can always go back to. Or just reset to default and start again.

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    N Dakota USA
    Posts
    777
    I just stopped by to compliment the outstanding rug in the one photo above. Go Pack GO!
    Seriously thought. The drag car is coming together nicely.
    Is that one of the Parma Muscle SC bodies?

  30. #70
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Do I even need a slipper if I'm running on the street?

  31. #71
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    T, the slipper helps with launches depending on the surface. Because we have grip I use it to allow the motor to come up instead of bogging down. Like real drag racing you need a little tire spin on the launch to allow the motor to come up quicker. Too much slip and you don't go.

  32. #72
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Maybe I have it to loose, it's a half turn from locked up, I'll have to pay more attention to hear if the motor is at full RPM. I thought with this set up I would definitely lift the wheels but it launches so soft. It has to be in the slipper or the esc

  33. #73
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    Hopefully you can hear what's going on. Your motor should have enough torque. I know you're no prep so your tire should slip if anything. Can you get a video? Maybe post or pm me your esc screens.

  34. #74
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    I found the issue, it was in the esc programming. there was a setting for starting power or something like that, it was set to low. I put it to medium and now the car launches hard.

    The problem I have now is on some starts one of tires starts to spin out of control. I guess ballooning. Im guess that one tire is grabbing and the other is still spinning and it eventually makes the spin out. Im guessing the diff is doing what a diff does. I guess ill be locking it up or trying a heavy oil but i think ill just get the locking spool. The car is quick just running the nicd batteries

  35. #75
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    T, I use the HR spool in my diff to avoid that problem. Been holding up so far. Interesting about the Start Power. I guess the Nimh can put out enough power. Good to know.

  36. #76
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    What a difference when I put it to medium, I was going to try full but maybe in the future.

    The RPM cage came in and that was the last thing on the build, but now I got the locker spool and a new slipper.




    Also managed to break the rear body mount so I'll have to get that as well.

    Next time I take it out I'm going to try to strap my gps on it to get s guesstimate on speed

  37. #77
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    Let me know how you like the slipper. The method I'm using does slip on the hit but then bites hard.

  38. #78
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    Stock slipper?

  39. #79
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    102
    The HR Slipper.

  40. #80
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    New jersey
    Posts
    58
    So i think that im done for now, i put the locking spool and the new slipper clutch. I also put a pair of ultra front shocks on the read to get the back end down. Now with the big tires on the rear the car sits level. No more jacked up rear.

    Last time out the car took a bit of damage, i broke one of the body mounts and some how bent the wheel bar a bit.

    Hopefully ill get it out this weekend,

    I want to try to put the start up power to full and see what happens. Ill see about going with a higher pinion gear. Running a 23 tooth pinion now with a 76 spur. I have a 25 tooth but cant use it due to a stripped set screw. Id like to see about a new 25 or high pinion

Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •