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  1. #1
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    Building a drag car

    Hey guys i picked up a used slash 2wd brushed yesterday with the intent on building a drag car. I got the tires i wanted. https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...unted-2-8-rear
    And for the fronts
    https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...y-front-tires/

    Started messing with the gearing and and so far what seems to work is the 86 tooth spur and the 23 pinion with the stock motor, i did buy a 15 turn 540 motor but it dosent seem like it has the toruqe i need to spin the tires. The set up with a 5000 mha 8.4 volt seems like the best set up i have.

    So on to the questions:

    1) what gearing should i use the get this thing to take off and have decent top end speed. ( is the stampede gearing set up for more toruqe)?

    2) i was thinking of locking the diff but is using 500k oil a better option?

    3) i will eventually put a brushless system in the car but is the a brushed motor that will have alot of power on the torque side but still have high rpm's?

    4) before you say lipo, for now ill stick to the regular batteries. All my other cars run regular batt's plus i dont know of any place to drag race in my area, North Jersey.


    I know that switching to a brushless motor will have more power but right now im just sticking with the stock stuff and will slowly modify as a can control the power better. Thanks in advance for the help, ill try and post pictures of it when i can figure that out.

  2. #2
    RC Champion fourdub's Avatar
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    Hello! any pictures of your car so far?

    1.)

    29/90 46pitch
    25/75 36pitch

    on my slash 2wg vxl dragster it is geared 31/86 hit 58mph on 3s lipo, I know u said you wanted to stay nihm.

    2.
    I hit 58mph on unlocked transmission (stock vxl)... still haven't locked any transmissions.... so this is up to you.

    3.
    Not sure on the brushed motor for drag racing. maybe try to find a brushed racing motor. look at what the spec's are for the racing trucks classes. they should have a list of approved motors and their specs.

    4.
    this is also up to you. traxxas does make some nice 5000mah nihm packs. recommend you check them out.

    for a brushless recommendation, I recommend the hobbywing wp-sc8 with any cheap 2200kv-3500kv brushless motor. The combo I use is about 140$ esc/battery/motor (hobbywing sc-8 esc 60$/ venom 4s boat lipo 45$ / Kershaw 2700kv motor 35$)

    heres a picture of my dragslash



    Sla2hvxl,pe4evxl,erevobl
    "Richard Chilson"youtube

  3. #3
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    It sounds like you're building a rather slow drag car. From what I've found the 15 turn 540 has less torque than your 550 12 turn. I've never built a drag car so take my advice with a grain of salt, but...

    1) stampedes are set up to wheelie basically, they have a slower top speed
    2) i'd lock it, i think most drag cars run spools
    3) just forget brushed motors, if you want straight speed you want brushless
    4) ok. but if you really want to go fast you want a multi cell lipo with a brushless system.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    The traxxas 12t 550 is about the best option for brushed.

  5. #5
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    I love your car, how did you get the funny car tires on it. Im running the pro lines but its too cold here and the tires are not grabbing at all until the battery runs down,

    I have two of the 5000 mha batteries and the car definitely reacts better to them. Lipo is in the future but not just yet.

    Those gear suggestion, is that for the brushless? Ill pick up those gear sets and try them out

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by thetech View Post
    It sounds like you're building a rather slow drag car. From what I've found the 15 turn 540 has less torque than your 550 12 turn. I've never built a drag car so take my advice with a grain of salt, but...

    1) stampedes are set up to wheelie basically, they have a slower top speed
    2) i'd lock it, i think most drag cars run spools
    3) just forget brushed motors, if you want straight speed you want brushless
    4) ok. but if you really want to go fast you want a multi cell lipo with a brushless system.
    I have a stampede and when i put a 16 tooth pinion in it the thing comes to life. I was wondering if i put the spur and pinion from a stampede will my car launch harder from the line.

    Im going to get the oil and and it to the diff first before i do any permanent mods.

    Brushless and lipo are in the future but for now i just want to see how far i can take the car

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourdub View Post
    Hello! any pictures of your car so far?

    1.)

    29/90 46pitch
    25/75 36pitch

    on my slash 2wg vxl dragster it is geared 31/86 hit 58mph on 3s lipo, I know u said you wanted to stay nihm.

    2.
    I hit 58mph on unlocked transmission (stock vxl)... still haven't locked any transmissions.... so this is up to you.

    3.
    Not sure on the brushed motor for drag racing. maybe try to find a brushed racing motor. look at what the spec's are for the racing trucks classes. they should have a list of approved motors and their specs.

    4.
    this is also up to you. traxxas does make some nice 5000mah nihm packs. recommend you check them out.

    for a brushless recommendation, I recommend the hobbywing wp-sc8 with any cheap 2200kv-3500kv brushless motor. The combo I use is about 140$ esc/battery/motor (hobbywing sc-8 esc 60$/ venom 4s boat lipo 45$ / Kershaw 2700kv motor 35$)

    heres a picture of my dragslash




    How do i post pictures? Mine is still basically a stock slash with big tires on the rear

  8. #8
    RC Champion fourdub's Avatar
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    I post images on imgur.com and than link them here.

    I use bandit rear a-arms, axles, camber links to tuck the funny car wheels inside the slash mustang body.

    gearing I listed was for brushless



    another shot.

    132feet in 3.2 seconds 40ish mph
    Last edited by fourdub; 03-05-2017 at 05:29 PM.
    Sla2hvxl,pe4evxl,erevobl
    "Richard Chilson"youtube

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourdub View Post
    I post images on imgur.com and than link them here.

    I use bandit rear a-arms, axles, camber links to tuck the funny car wheels inside the slash mustang body.

    gearing I listed was for brushless




    another shot.

    132feet in 3.2 seconds 40ish mph

    I think im breaking down and getting the brushless system. I looked at the traxxas one but there expensive. The LHS i went to has a trade in Program i guess through traxxas. Im going with the LCG chassis the car is way to high off the ground. I just put 100k diff lube in it. Man that stuff is thick. I also picked up the spur and pinion set on a 75 tooth spur and a 25 tooth pinion, when it gets warmer ill start experimenting. Im looking at the castle 3 combo. I never realize that i would need to program the esc. Im still going to run the 5000mha nimh batteries. This is getting expensive fast!!!!!!!!

  10. #10
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    I hope this works

    https://imgur.com/a/ovko8

  11. #11
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    I just saw a revolver 700 ho brushed motor that looks really powerful. They use them in the e Maxx. I wonder if it would fit the the slash

  12. #12
    RC Champion fourdub's Avatar
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    that's a great looking truck!

    to link the image you need to use this tag [img] [/img]

    but you put the link inside it with no spaces. (the .jpg link)



    I'm sorry I left that part out when telling you how to do it!

    I dig your ride, it looks pretty cool. the lcg will help you with a lil stability.

    check out these two threads if you get more, for more stuff I did with my slash on its way to dragster status lol.

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-Mods-amp-Past

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ersion-Project

    hope this stuff helps! remember to take lots of pics!!!
    Last edited by fourdub; 03-06-2017 at 03:42 AM.
    Sla2hvxl,pe4evxl,erevobl
    "Richard Chilson"youtube

  13. #13
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    I'm going to try to get the rear of the body to sit a little lower. It's a little to high.
    Last edited by Tober; 03-06-2017 at 07:30 AM.

  14. #14
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    Tober...that's really cool. I've thought about using one of those SC bodies too for my next body. I just started testing my Bandit/Slash chassis for drags using 3s and cc electrics. Hoping to get into the 2.0s or sub to compete with the Traxxas FC guys. First clean pass (no time) looks promising. Our next outing is in a couple of weekends so hopefully will get a time.

    Here's the link for a previous post:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...heir-Slash-2wd

  15. #15
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    Messing around with that as well for about 6 weeks,pretty fun with the DTS-1 timing system. Traction is still our biggest issue, spinning the wheels the first 50-60 feet even with compound on the 132' track (coated asphalt parking lot). Going to try som rubber tires instead of the foams.
    Basic race rules are 1/10 scale 2wd trucks for a top ten list "outlaw" style.

  16. #16
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    this is my Drag Slash



    Oh well I tried, where can I get instructions to post pictures? Thx.
    Never mind, looks like it worked.


  17. #17
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    G...very cool. We've been running a gearbox bracket race which includes the Traxxas FC so it's pretty much open rules.

    We prep with sugar water and use traction (Koford and Liquid Grip) for the foam tired cars. A few of the Traxxas FC guys still run the rubber tires (fun to do the tire cleaning/warming burnouts). Our fastest Traxxas FC so far is in the 2.1s with 3s. And we have a racer with a custom built Britney Force Monster dragster with the Traxxas FC gearbox. He's gone in the 2.1s also.


    This is a bit old but here are a few pics of our races. Since I've been more of a racer I haven't been able to take pictures.
    http://hawaiitalks.net/showthread.php?t=95904
    One of our racers does post pics and videos on Facebook. You can join the HRCDR group.

  18. #18
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    What KV's are you running on the motors. Im breaking down and am going to get a brushless system but it's very confusing.

    Im kinda looking for the street outlaws vib with this car, still have a way to go with it but it will get there. When I first got it I was sure it was in training mode. No life at all.

    Are you guys locking down your slipper clutch?

    Really nice rigs!!!

  19. #19
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    Running 3s so had the need to run the metal pads on the slipper. The fiber pads fully locked up couldn't hold the power because of prepped track and traction compound. Slipper is not locked up. Need a little slip and it then needs to lock up. Also running the spool. Currently using the CC 6900 4 pole motor with a mamba monster. Will be testing their other motors to see which works the best of what I have. These motors seem to have enough power to turn the tires.

    Don't worry you'll get there. Inching there is not a bad thing. Better to learn more and spend less and that will get you faster in the long run.

  20. #20
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    Just ordered the castle 3850kv sct to start. Got the programming cable . Heard back gen kereshaw degins and the revolver 700ho won't fit. I figure I can always up the motor if it's not enough power. I also going to put on the bandit rear suspension arms and I might as well upgrade the drive shafts and turnbuckles.

    This is getting expensive. Lol

  21. #21
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    Let me know how that motor works out. Yes, it kind of adds up. I only changed things for strength and will upgrade as things start to wear.

    At my last outing I had to add a bit more weight to the front. My next mod is to add a plate to the front bulkhead with velcro so I can adjust my weights better. Really trying to minimize the custom parts because I hate to have to reproduce them. So far the only parts I've custom is mounting the wing to rear shock tower (had to make a plate to support the mount). If/when I change to an aluminum shock tower that will go away (but still need custom holes for the wing mount).

  22. #22
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    Speaking of shock towers I'm worried that with that bandit suspension arm I'm putting on that the slash shocks are too long and won't let me get the rear end down. I'll have to check it out once I starry putting this thing together I may have to shorten the rear shocks

  23. #23
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    T...You should be okay since you won't need much travel. And the 2 cars actually use the same shock. If you noticed the pics of my bug there are not shocks. The arms and shock tower are my shocks with all the flex it has. Just lower it with inserts under the piston.

  24. #24
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    That's the thing with us, rules are no prep track so the tires are the key.
    RSConcept, Where in Hawaii are you, I'll be in Kona tomorrow, but just for one night I think.

  25. #25
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    G, one night in Hawaii? Bummer. My dad was from Kona and have an aunty and cousins still there. My summer vacations growing up was picking coffee on my aunt's farm. Fun country life fishing and camping on the beach. Hope you have time to check out the volcano crater.

    I'm on Oahu in the Honolulu area. We run on the 3rd Sunday of the month up in the Wahiawa (central Oahu) area. Crawling is big here, drifting, and off road pretty much is it.

    No prep is hard but fun. The Traxxas FC slicks are pretty good. So I'm assuming no prep and not traction compound? If you could use traction then you could run foams. You could sauce your rubber tires with Paragon or Trinity additives.

  26. #26
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    So much for building it slowly! Got my LCG chassis yesterday and started to really inspect the car, the steering is sloppy and the drive shafts are pretty worn out. Ordered new metal shafts and aluminum steering blocks, axle blocks, camber blocks and steering rack. Getting RPM suspension arms. Also ordered the RC reaper wheelie bar.

    The bandit rear conversion is not going to work for me. I'm hoping that when the chassis is complete it will be the way I want it. Pictures to follow.

  27. #27
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    T, great upgrades so far. You're changing what will help and not just for looks. Using Bandit arms is not necessary. I just wanted it as narrow as possible. Which axles did you get? I'm using the MIP sliders. Heavy but strong.

  28. #28
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    I got these, don't know if there good or not but mine are pretty worn and a lot of play



    I got the body to sit a little lower, I'll have to trim it a bit but there won't be much travel with the suspension, won't need it for the street. I'll start tonight to build it, I have to wait for the parts to come in but there is still plenty to do.

    I'm also going to look at the TQi control with the Bluetooth feature, that way I can track speed and such. You can get them cheep on eBay.

    The other thing I'm going to look into is hooking up the speakers for the on board sound. Totally not need but I have it. I'll have to fab a bracket to mount to the chassis
    Last edited by Tober; 03-08-2017 at 12:12 PM.

  29. #29
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    T, hopefully those hold up okay. The MIP's are all steel and very heavy. Don't forget to post some pics during your build.

  30. #30
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    The wheelie bar came in today





    I started putting the LCG chassis together but i still have to wait for more parts to come in. I change the front suspension arms out for the RPM ones. Hopefully friday more parts come in. I really like the LCG chassis really makes a difference.


  31. #31
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    Looking good! Yup I like the LCG chassis too. Like the wheelie bar. Might look into getting that. RPM make an esc cage that the base mounts to the right side of the chassis and gives you a flat to mount your esc. Or you can make your own.

  32. #32
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    I did order the RPM one I hope that it fits. I have been thinking on what to do with the OBA module. I saw that there is a place to mount it so that's not a issue, I'll have to get a pig tail for it tho to power it up, the castle ESC doesn't have a extra power wire coming out of it. No a big deal.it just mounting the speakers. Apparently they have to be up against something for it to be loud. Thinking 3m double sided tape to mount it in the body. I mainly want it so I can do the neutral drop thing. Plus I already have it. Don't know if it robs power tho.


    I like what Gustump did and found the bar. Looks a whole lot better than the traxxas one. Got it in about two days. I'm the future I might be looking at one of RC Reapers chassis for this thing.

  33. #33
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    I have the Associated ESS-One Plus sound box for my bracket car. It's contained in a box so bigger but doesn't use the body for amplification. I'll post a video later.

    The Reaper stuff looks pretty good. I'm not an aluminum person unless it's needed. Plastic is lighter and would prefer to place the weights where I want.

    Can't wait to get a timed run. 2 more Sundays to wait. Keep posting the updates. I like the blue chassis.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier Traxxas9008's Avatar
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    This looks like an insane build. Looking forward for updates.
    If you ain't getting dirty, you ain't having fun.

  35. #35
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    The castle esc and mother came in last night. I was impressed in how heavy the motor is. I'm hoping the 4 pole motor will launch the car

  36. #36
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    How exciting! Just in time for the weekend of testing. Plug in the esc and write down your settings and make a log of your changes and results. Remember, one thing at a time and know what it did.

  37. #37
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    We just got snow here and I'm still waiting on more parts to come in. Hopefully next weekend I can have it put together and take a pass or two but it depends on the weather

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier Myrustlervxl's Avatar
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    I think I found my new wheelie bar. I really like that wheelie bar.
    Good work isn't cheap, cheap work isn't good

  39. #39
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    More parts came in over the past few days. The aluminum steering rack, RPM A arms front and rear, aluminum intregy drive shafts, RC reaper wheelie bar,
    I finished putting the chassis and front end together, had to shave a bit of the plastic off the bottom plate there the bell cranks go. It was binding up a bit.

    Also started putting in some of the electronics and routing wires. Still waiting on the RPM esc cage. I picked up a pig tail to Sodder to the ESC for the OBA. Fortunately the the LCG chassis has a spot to mount the OBA module. Mounting the speakers are a challenge, i decided to mount them to the body under the hood with 3M double sided tape. Im going to cut a old body and glue to to the bottom of the speaker. I saw that speakers need need to be against some thing to make them loud. Ill test the OBA system with the old ESC to see if it works.

    Just waiting on the rest of the parts that should have been here already, stupid amazon.

    The car is coming along good, cant wait to get in on the road.



















    Last edited by Tober; 03-12-2017 at 09:00 AM.

  40. #40
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    T, looking sick! Where you put the OBA is where I put weights. I need to make a plate so it'll be easier to move/change depending on the track conditions. How wide it that body at the rear wheel opening?

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