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  1. #321
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    Thanks for the info DgeChrgr, it’s appreciated!
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  2. #322
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    Sorry, double post
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  3. #323
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    I forgot to mention i put both buggy and truggy M4 2.2 primes on the Faultline wheels to try. I think the buggy tires will be too low profile to be useful (low ground clearance) but I will try them. I'm using the M4 compound because they are the softest of the two choices.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  4. #324
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    Thanks again, I’ll amend parts list then!
    https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en

  5. #325
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    OMG!

    So this guy came down (to South Carolina) from North Carolina with his Slash-based street eliminator looking for somewhere to race. He came to our late night race spot to hang-out/race with us. I lined up with him to do some hits.

    THIS GUY HAS THE FASTEST ELIMINATOR I'VE SEEN TO DATE!!!!

    He beat me like 4 or 5 times in a row. AND he gave me the break each time.

    Much respect for the Bisquick car (because that Bisquick).


  6. #326
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    Any info on his setup? I just finished up a car using the same body with the belted pro-lines.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  7. #327
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    I don't know anything about his set-up, but I have seen that wing before:



    https://www.facebook.com/pg/Undercov...0471538/posts/

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  8. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    Any info on his setup? I just finished up a car using the same body with the belted pro-lines.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    Here's what I know....

    LCG Slash chassis, Corvette C7 body (obviously), stock Slash shocks, YES, "STOCK" Slash shocks, Fantom motor, Hobbywing ESC, 1.7"x2.5" rear wheels. The rear wheels provide a smaller roll-out than the typical 2.2"x3.0" SCT wheels, which get you off the line quicker.

    That's all I got....

  9. #329
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    I wonder if he's using a slipper or not. I believe in using them because if you can get it to take off smooth and straight without long wheelies you'll win 9 times out of 10. I just put a Pro-Line wheelie bar on my car mostly for looks. I can get it to take off without excessive wheelieing (?) but as the clutch grabs it goes!

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  10. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    I wonder if he's using a slipper or not. I believe in using them because if you can get it to take off smooth and straight without long wheelies you'll win 9 times out of 10. I just put a Pro-Line wheelie bar on my car mostly for looks. I can get it to take off without excessive wheelieing (?) but as the clutch grabs it goes!

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    Definitely NOT using the slipper.

    Using the slipper is the slow way to go (in my opinion).

  11. #331
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    The angle of the picture I took doesn't show his wheelie bar, but it's there. And it gets utilized.

  12. #332
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    Any slipping is lost power and time in drag racing. I understand your point, but come up against a guy with a good setup and throttle control, and you are slower

    Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk
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  13. #333
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    I got in touch with a local group that has a race monthly, i'll get a chance to see how my ideas work on the 30th. I have different cars to set up different ways.

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  14. #334
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    Found another picture of Cody Offenbacker’s rig:


    https://m.facebook.com/cody.offenbac...3D&mdp=1&mdf=1
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  15. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Found another picture of Cody Offenbacker’s rig:


    https://m.facebook.com/cody.offenbac...3D&mdp=1&mdf=1
    Yeah! That post is talking about his week long adventures here in the lowcountry. After the first night I met him, I took him around to a few of our 'secret' test/tune spots. He is one of the coolest guys, too.

    He made me want to step-up my game a little. He is VERY meticulous about his eliminator set-ups. While we were at the spot where he broke their track record, he made adjustments throughout the day & wrote them down in his notebook. He says he'll be ready the next time he races there with the right set-up from the start.

  16. #336
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    No one seems to post in the Traxxas 4-Tec forum so thought I'd ask here. Can anyone tell me if the ProLine Nova body will fit on the 4-Tec? Will the Pomona wheels and Hoosier tires fit on it as well? Thanks.

  17. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55Chevy View Post
    No one seems to post in the Traxxas 4-Tec forum so thought I'd ask here. Can anyone tell me if the ProLine Nova body will fit on the 4-Tec? Will the Pomona wheels and Hoosier tires fit on it as well? Thanks.
    No it won't. The 4Tec is a different (shorter) wheel-base than an SCT (for which the Nova body is designed).

    Hope you didn't drop the cash on one yet.

  18. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I don't know anything about his set-up, but I have seen that wing before:



    https://www.facebook.com/pg/Undercov...0471538/posts/

    Have fun!
    cool !!!

  19. #339
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    Ok...after following this thread for the past year, and even having made a few posts, I've finally decided to "get in the game". Yesterday, I made a trip up north (approx 90min each way), to Jake's Performance Hobbies, and picked up my 'starter kit' - a Bandit roller w/ Slash LCG chassis pan, JPH wheelie bar, the Pro-Line adjustable body mounts, and a Maclan DRK160 ESC (it was either the DRK, or an R1 Works Digital -3, but 1) Jake didn't have any R1s in stock, and 2) he said the DRK had been seeking like hotcakes since they arrived last week - sold his entire shipment (40 units) in under a week...with me getting the last one).

    The plan is to start the build by replacing several stock items with aftermarket parts. Among the first replacements will be the trans, which is to be replaced with the Pro-Line PRO-Series 32P trans. Also on the starting list are the front/rear shock towers (to be replaced with carbon fiber towers), the front bullhead (to be replaced with a DRC Zero Degree front bullhead, servo (probably worth a Hitec, my favorite "go-to" brand), and steering bell crank set (probably DRC, or STRC).

    However, I do have some other upgrades in mind, but could use a little help in figuring them out. I don't want to "highjack" the thread...but, at the same time, since I'm only looking for simple answers to (what I'm going is) some simple questions, I'm just going to ask here.

    1) Regarding the shocks, is it best to stick with the stock 'Ultra' shocks, and just replace the cap with the optional aluminum caps? Or, are different shocks a better/smarter choice...and, if so, which (ie. GTRs, Pro-Line ProSpec, etc)?
    2) Regarding mounting the ESC, does anyone (Traxxas, or 3rd-party) make ESC mounting plates (preferably carbon fiber, but plastic is 'acceptable') that can be mounted using the stock screw locations (please, list manufacturers & part numbers)?
    3) I'd like to upgrade the stock driveshafts (Bandit length). I know MIP has their X-Duty offering, but that's too heavy. What options are there that are lighter than MIP's X-Duty CVD, but stronger than the stock units?

    I realize there's a lot more to focus out (spur/pinion gearing, fluid weights for the diff & shocks, spring rate(s) for the shocks, what body to go with, etc), but those are all things I'll be focusing our on my own and/or with a little help from others...but, did the three questions, above, since so many in here are already familiar with this type of conversion/setup, I thought I'd check with "those in the know".


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    Last edited by Panther6834; 11-19-2020 at 01:55 PM.
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  20. #340
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    #1, most use front shocks on the rear. Heavy oil,
    I've used all styles of Traxxas shocks, Losi buggy shocks, Pro-Specs and Powerstrokes. I don't see much of a difference. I like to use a lighter oil on a bumpy track. Generally run 50/60w.
    #2, I make a lot of my own from sheet carbon fiber, there are companies that make them on printers and sell carbon fiber plates too.
    #3 I use Integy axles, they are half the cost of MIP and I have not had any problems so far. They are in high demand and not always available. Integy offers two varieties, their more expensive ($40) are in stock now. Aftermarket bandit axles have not become that popular, yet.

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  21. #341
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    #1, most use front shocks on the rear. Heavy oil,
    I've used all styles of Traxxas shocks, Losi buggy shocks, Pro-Specs and Powerstrokes. I don't see much of a difference. I like to use a lighter oil on a bumpy track. Generally run 50/60w.
    #2, I make a lot of my own from sheet carbon fiber, there are companies that make them on printers and sell carbon fiber plates too.
    #3 I use Integy axles, they are half the cost of MIP and I have not had any problems so far. They are in high demand and not always available. Integy offers two varieties, their more expensive ($40) are in stock now. Aftermarket bandit axles have not become that popular, yet.

    Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk
    Are those Integy driveshafts steel, or aluminum? I can tell the collars are aluminum, but I'm regretting to the telescoping parts, and the axle stubs. The less expensive ($33) units almost look at of they're entirely aluminum. Gotta ask, especially considering Integy is known more as a "bling" company, and not a company that makes quality, long-lasting components.


    ~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 11-19-2020 at 05:47 PM.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  22. #342
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    They are aluminum, I believe where the "u joints" are assembled with the pins are steel. I've bought the cheaper axles up to this point. Just ordered a set of the $40 axles because that's all that was available now. If I start breaking them I'll upgrade to MIP but other than stock not much else out there. I've thought about cutting down some other brand telescoping type Slash shafts but haven't yet.

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  23. #343
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    They are aluminum, I believe where the "u joints" are assembled with the pins are steel. I've bought the cheaper axles up to this point. Just ordered a set of the $40 axles because that's all that was available now. If I start breaking them I'll upgrade to MIP but other than stock not much else out there. I've thought about cutting down some other brand telescoping type Slash shafts but haven't yet.

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    Any update on those $40 Integy Bandit driveshafts? Did you receive/install them? If so, how are they working out? I've got the MIP X-Duty version, but I'm leaving then in the package, as I'd really prefer something lighter.


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    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  24. #344
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    I have had them for awhile now, have them in a Integy LCG chassis (Pro-Line Pro2 copy) I'm building as a no prep drag car but haven't used them yet. They seem ok. It's odd but some of their axles come with the pin/screws to attach to the diff output shafts and some don't.

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  25. #345
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    I have had them for awhile now, have them in a Integy LCG chassis (Pro-Line Pro2 copy) I'm building as a no prep drag car but haven't used them yet. They seem ok. It's odd but some of their axles come with the pin/screws to attach to the diff output shafts and some don't.

    Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk
    Honestly, coming from Integy, that doesn't surprise me. I'm assuming that the stock Traxxas pins will work, correct? If something like that happens with a larger, more established brand, we'd all be going, "What the heck is going on here?".

    For example, Vanquish somewhat recently had a problem where their VS4-10 kits we're being packaged with some parts missing. Vanquish isn't exactly a large company...but, they are well-established, and looked highly upon as producing very high quality product. However, it's not as if they are manufacturing in-house (all of their products are manufactured for them, overseas), bus, they don't have the ability to have the tight level of quality control that an in-house manufacturer would have.

    Integy, on the other hand, IS the actual manufacturer (at least, as far as I am aware), thus, if this is a "quality control" issue, it should be corrected. However, at the same time...and, as I previously stated...coming from Integy, it doesn't surprise me. If the stock Traxxas outdrive pins do fit perfectly, then chances are that those who received pins in their Integy kits might have received 'extra' parts that weren't necessarily intended on being in the packaging. Another possibility is that Integy made a change in the packaging (ie. adding, or removing, the pins), which would mean that some people are receiving the "old" packaging, while others are receiving the "new" packaging - problem is, we, as the consumers, would have no idea as to which was which.

    As long as the stock Traxxas pins fit the same, it wouldn't matter to me whether, or not, I received pins from Integy...in either case, I would use the Traxxas pins, as I trust their 'strength' more.


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  26. #346
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    Yes, the stock pins do fit. It seems when they supply the pins they use the 2mm size hex which are more like you have on the Revo/Slayer. I've about exhausted my supply of pins and had to resort to buying the end of the Traxxas stock axle the pin comes in since they're not sold separately.

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  27. #347
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    Hello all ! Im building a drag car off the bandit vxl . My question is ..What part or parts do i need to make 0 toe in on the rear wheels ? Thank you

  28. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyatt burp View Post
    Hello all ! Im building a drag car off the bandit vxl . My question is ..What part or parts do i need to make 0 toe in on the rear wheels ? Thank you
    You probably still want some, even if only 0.5°/side. But, it you truly want 0°, the only choice (that I'm aware of) area the Custom Works Adjustable Rear A-arms.


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  29. #349
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    If you have a stock transmission you can change the rear toe with the bearing carriers. I believe if you swap the 4x4 carriers side to side that will get it closer to 0° toe. The 4x4 carriers will fit the 2wd. I think STRC makes bearing carriers also that give you varying amount of toe-in. The only other way I know (besides the adjustable arms Panther mentioned) is to use a RPM trans case or Pro-Line transmission that use a separate a arm mount with various toe settings. The RPM trans case only has two. The 1st design Pro-Line trans had quite a few toe blocks when they were available but are now discontinued. They're still used ones for sale online once in awhile but becoming rare. I don't care for more than .5° toe in on a drag car, more toe than that just scrubs off speed and wears the tires quicker going in a straight line. It's fine if you turn corners a lot like you would racing a SCT.

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    Last edited by dgechrgr469; 12-11-2020 at 09:04 PM.

  30. #350
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    The only other way I know (besides the adjustable arms Panther mentioned) is to use a RPM trans case or Pro-Line transmission that use a separate a arm mount with various toe settings.
    The new Pro-Line PRO-Series 32p Transmission does not have adjustment...like the stock Traxxas trans, the bullhead is 'solid'. The STRC carriers, on the other hand, is a possibility. Alternately...since you "juggled my memory", if the 4x4 & 2WD rear carriers are the same, might be able to go with the Tekno rear carriers, which can have several left/right degree combinations. I am currently using them on both of my Rusty 4x4s.

    Regarding your 0.5 degree toe-in comment towards the end of your post, I'm assuming you're referring to "per side", right?


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
    Last edited by Panther6834; 12-11-2020 at 09:12 PM.
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  31. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    The new Pro-Line PRO-Series 32p Transmission does not have adjustment...like the stock Traxxas trans, the bullhead is 'solid'. The STRC carriers, on the other hand, is a possibility. Alternately...since you "juggled my memory", if the 4x4 & 2WD rear carriers are the same, might be able to go with the Tekno rear carriers, which can have several left/right degree combinations.


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
    Yes I bought one of the new Pro-Line 32p transmissions recently and was very disappointed they did not have the separate a arm mount on it. I'm thinking of milling it off and using a 1st gen mount on it if that is possible. I'm still trying to figure out the differences internally between the two (haven't opened the new one up yet).

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    Last edited by dgechrgr469; 12-11-2020 at 09:22 PM.

  32. #352
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    Yes, I did mean 1° total on the toe in, I was taught as a auto mechanic that a little of that toe in will go away when the slack/flex of the suspension occurs during forward motion.

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    Last edited by dgechrgr469; 12-11-2020 at 09:26 PM.

  33. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    Yes I bought one of the new Pro-Line 32p transmissions recently and was very disappointed they did not have the separate a arm mount on it. I'm thinking of milling it off and using a 1st gen mount on it if that is possible. I'm still trying to figure out the differences internally between the two (haven't opened the new one up yet).

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    Before potentially destroying it (you'd have to purchase an entirely new transmission case, as the 'bullhead' & 'trans case' are one-and-the-same), I'd really suggest trying the STRC carriers (which I believe you mentioned), or the Custom Works Adjustable A-arms. I decided to go the Custom Works route, mostly because I also wanted the DRC 'ARM' System.


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  34. #354
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    Yeah, I probably wouldn't try milling the whole thing off, probably cut off the pin pivot area and then mill enough to mount a version 1 a-arm block to the case. I would only do this if I wanted to change the anti-squat characteristics as the toe suits me as is. I like to experiment.

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  35. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    Yeah, I probably wouldn't try milling the whole thing off, probably cut off the pin pivot area and then mill enough to mount a version 1 a-arm block to the case. I would only do this if I wanted to change the anti-squat characteristics as the toe suits me as is. I like to experiment.

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    Even that would be super-extremely difficult, considering the rear bullhead & transmission case are one-and-the-same. If you've really liked at the Pro-Line 32p trans, you understand...and, of you've never actually seen the Pro-Line 32p trans, take a look. From those I've personally spoken with, the great majority of them (ie. all but two) REALLY like the Pro-Line 32p trans...which is why I decided to get one.

    While I haven't yet finished building my first no-prep, I have discovered one (albeit, very minor) "problem" with the Pro-Line 32p trans - the spur. Specifically, the only spur Pro-Line makes is replacement 56T. Going higher/lower takes figuring out alternate possibilities from other manufacturers. Also, as the shaft is slightly larger in diameter than those from Axial, Traxxas, Associated, etc, that adds another 'layer' to figuring out alternate-toothed spur options.


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  36. #356
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    I have just the one new trans, it's in a car I raced this year. I'll more than likely leave it alone. I was hoping some of the new parts could be retrofitted to the original version since some of the parts for the first version are hard to find, like the slipper plates. I modified Losi slippers to work on the last couple transmissions I built from spare parts. Just a little drilling and dremel work on the plates and drill the spur gear out and made it work. Maybe after they've been out awhile the price might come down too. I think that's why the first trans and Pro2 chassis were dropped, too costly/low sales volume.

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    Hey group, I have the VXL 3s system & purchasing a Bandit to run 132'. Anyone have any proven gearing that can produce sub 2sec passes

  38. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BMFNJ View Post
    Hey group, I have the VXL 3s system & purchasing a Bandit to run 132'. Anyone have any proven gearing that can produce sub 2sec passes
    I was hoping someone had an answer because the best no prep cars I've seen run sub 2.5 second runs.

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  39. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1BMFNJ View Post
    Hey group, I have the VXL 3s system & purchasing a Bandit to run 132'. Anyone have any proven gearing that can produce sub 2sec passes
    While I won't say it's impossible to get sub 2sec runs on the stock VXL electronics, I will say that even if it is possible (which I HIGHLY doubt), the gearing required to do so would probably blow up the electronics on every run. You are aware that the great majority of no-prep drag racing is done on 2S, not 3S.

    The smarter thing would be to purchase proper electronics...but, if you don't mind having to purchase a new ESC and/or motor after every run (that is, if the vehicle didn't catch fire), then go for it. However, I want to see video of the results. I've seen real drag races where the vehicle is traveling down the street in a ball of fire...I want to see the scale version.


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