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  1. #81
    RC Qualifier Beefred00013's Avatar
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    What is t7 steel

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  2. #82
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beefred00013 View Post
    What is t7 steel

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    Hey Beefred,

    7075 T7 is a very dense yet light-weight aluminum alloy. It is used in airplanes, firearms and well, RC cars! Besides being super-strong, it is also highly polishable which is right up my alley!

    -Shack

  3. #83
    RC Qualifier Beefred00013's Avatar
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    So like k&n aluminum sheet metal



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  4. #84
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Basically. This stuff looks really nice. I hope to have some pics of the new plate here very soon. So many projects... so little time!

    -Shack

  5. #85
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Been a busy beaver over the last couple of days. Things are starting to come together though. We finally have our first rough-cut of the plate and it looks to be promising. A few things will be tweaked for fitment/functionality purposes but it is tight! The way we designed it has stiffened the chassis more than we thought it would. We gave it a quick 8S run and I was tripping! Here's a few pics to look at. The juicy stuff will come later!

    -Shack





















  6. #86
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    Very nice piece. Wow that copper hammer looked familiar. If you weren't in Tennessee I would have thought you were at my work. I'm also a machinist.

  7. #87
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    That is stout. I really like having 4 bolts holding all that power. It should keep the gear mesh on spec when the hammer is down.

  8. #88
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Nice looking work. I'm just on the other side of nashville. Next time I head to the Moutains I'm gonna have to see it run

  9. #89
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    I was skeptical at first but after seeing this, I don't know how I feel anymore. Can't wait to see the outcome!


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    Traxxas Slash 4x4
    Traxxas Blast

  10. #90
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    Where do I sign up for my motor plate!?


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    supporting my addiction one paycheck at a time

  11. #91
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input! I do appreciate it. And let me please go ahead and say that the next few post will probably be haphazard in nature. I am working toward this lofty goal and sometimes my post might be done late-night with one eye open.

    Another busy day... almost 12 hrs in the shop. After a few test runs with the high-speed camera, we could easily see that the front-end still needed work. We disassembled the front clip and went back through every piece again. The one spot that we had worked on but still had concern about was the culprit... the c-hubs. I LOVE Traxxas but I'm sorry to say that the original design, well, could be better. We originally swapped the shoulder screws with brass sleeves that spun in there bore, like the Traxxas design with the shoulder screw, only we machined the insert to a much tighter spec and were able to remove some slop. This was good but not perfect (as far as slop removal). In comes the high-speed camera. It revealed "issues" in the front end at a fairly high-rate of speed so we re-engineered this piece once again and I think hit the proverbial jackpot. Zero travel on any plane! For one, we have re-created the brass insert that is a few thousandths larger and press-fit them into the c-hub bore(s). Then a few more little things and it's all good. Even though we have done similar to the servo-saver, the steering components as a whole are still the the biggest problem area we have left. After we get a chance to test out the new c-hub re-design, we'll better understand the areas that still need more attention. Believe me, I want to go nuts with this thing! I just have to take incremental steps to see where I can help to do things that might circumvent a catastrophe... you know, 100mph+ and having some preventable issue destroy your rig!

    Sorry... enough of that. I want to keep adding a few pics but I don't want to spoil anything down the road! Here are a few more photos. This shows the original plate design on chassis #1 that works fine for our test body but we knew we would have to trim it down. The photos show some hints at what our current plate looks like. These were taken with the 30T spur and 60T pinion. Dan at Kershaw Designs has been great with his product support. Were waiting on a 80T that he will provide which should be interesting!

    -Shack


    Only one pic of this. Sorry, I know it's kinda boring.




    A few more pics of the mounted 2028.







    Pretty tight fit! Another plate design has the motor coming in at a 15 angle to better space-out the distance from the motor mount passenger-side top-post mount. More room for larger gears!

    Last edited by shack351; 04-23-2017 at 01:46 AM.

  12. #92
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Nice job on the brass sleeves!

    Reminds me kind of like what matts175 did:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...provement-idea

    Keep it up!
    Last edited by Squeegie; 04-23-2017 at 02:10 AM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  13. #93
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Nice job on the brass sleeves!

    Reminds me kind of like what matts175 did:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...provement-idea

    Keep it up!
    Thanks for the link Squeegie! That was a good read. Very similar. All plastic parts but the premise is the same! He posted in great detail which admire. I hope to conform when I have more time. I am STRAPPED brother!

    Oh, and did you notice the springs? Thanks again for that one!

    -Shack

  14. #94
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Yes, I did and you're welcome. How are those purple dot Revo's working out for you?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  15. #95
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Yes, I did and you're welcome. How are those purple dot Revo's working out for you?
    I love 'em! Thank you! They are just about perfect for the 3lb motor. And since I'm an insomniac, I disassembled the new "reference" Slash and made a quick video about the front c-hubs. You'll have to pardon the crudeness... it's 5am in the morning.

    Edit: Man, I wish you could "feel" the difference in some of these mods. I know you are a man who appreciates this kind of dream!

    -Shack











    And the low-budget video....

    [video=youtube_share;QSPngeiZnQY]https://youtu.be/QSPngeiZnQY[/video
    Last edited by shack351; 04-23-2017 at 04:51 AM.

  16. #96
    RC Qualifier Beefred00013's Avatar
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    How much does it weight?


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  17. #97
    RC Qualifier Beefred00013's Avatar
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    It's the weight shifting causing chassis flex that's why your front end if you notice will start to get a wobble so your next step is make a top plate to stiffen your chassis and you can easily mount the plate on top of your shock tower using your shock tower screws


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  18. #98
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Hey buddy, sorry it took so long to get back. The weight of the first design plate, which is mounted in the car in the pics below, was sitting at about 9oz. The second design, seen by itself, is about 7.5oz. As for the flex, that is definitely logical but we have already engineered a solution to reduce the flexing. Ultimately this problem was not with flexing but rather the tire selection (size) and the keyed axle (part#10133). Smaller tires did not exhibit the same problem but the mods were made anyway because it simply needed to be done. The keyed axle keeps the inner and outer bearings apart at a fixed distance by it's design. This actually allowed for slight movement that could be seen when holding the vehicle still and just moving the tire in various directions.
    The problem is that the distance the keyed axle keeps the bearings apart is a few thousandths different (wider) than the internal bearing lands on the carrier. By milling "a bit' from the keyed axle outer bearing land, the slop is gone. I did not have another chance last week to take some high-speed camera shots after the mod but just a short run up and down the street looked pretty good.

    I did some weight balancing of the vehicle a week or so ago with 8S and 12S and 14S setups. Using the two-scale method, I placed the front end on one digital scale and the back on another. It's not quite that simple but the end result was to get a 55-45 split, with 55% being over the rear wheels. We pretty much had rain all last week so I was not able to get to my favorite spot but the few runs that I've done in front of my house were inconclusive as to the affect it had. I am limited to about 75-80mph in my street and that's just not fast enough to tell a whole lot. One thing that I did immediately notice was that the front-end dive was not as pronounced when braking from 80 to 0 with the quickness. The 2028 makes this thing brake in shorter distances even with more total weight, at least it seems that way after a couple of test runs. I'll confirm or disprove it when time allows.

    Here are a few pics of the first body, the GT1 Evolution, with the original plate designed for it mounted. The other plate design is for a Jag body and a few other Delta bad-boys. It will be much more versatile because of the reduced height. Another plate version has the motor coming in at an angle and I believe it will shave off yet another 1/4" of height.

    BTW, those are not the tires this body was cut for. I had just tossed them on for a few pics. There are also several other pieces that have been custom-designed that are not installed here but hey, you can't reveal everything!

    -Shack














    Last edited by shack351; 04-25-2017 at 12:59 AM.

  19. #99
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    It wouldn't let me open the video. I am building a speed runner too, so I am following yours really closely. Do you have any plans for selling the modded suspension parts. I am using a STRC chassis and the slop on the arms and C's is driving me nuts. I sold all my machine tools when I closed my shop so I am down to hand tools. I never thought I would be doing RC cars. Great build and attention to detail.

  20. #100
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner1 View Post
    It wouldn't let me open the video. I am building a speed runner too, so I am following yours really closely. Do you have any plans for selling the modded suspension parts. I am using a STRC chassis and the slop on the arms and C's is driving me nuts. I sold all my machine tools when I closed my shop so I am down to hand tools. I never thought I would be doing RC cars. Great build and attention to detail.
    You didn't miss much! LOL I don't know what I did there but as I recall it was 4 or 5 in the morning when I made this video and posted it. Here is the link:



    As far as custom-grinding this and that, nobody would ever pay for the time I have put in with this stuff. Once you analyze the problem, develop a solution, do any machine work necessary and then test things out, hours and hours go by that you simply have to put in to get a quality result. And since I try to be a perfectionist, I may spend three times as long as is needed to squeeze an extra 5 or 10% performance gain out of whatever the project is. Now keep in mind I love doing this and could spend just about all day everyday in the shop! But 10-15hrs work can result in a part or parts that I machined which only cost a few dollars in materials. A business who plans to sell publicly can factor in their R&D and predictions about sales volume to help set a price.

    With that said, I am more than willing to help out with a solution. You mentioned A-arms and carriers/c-hubs. Some of the mods are only a matter of firing up the lathe and removing material. That obviously means the part would have to be taken to a shop where you hope to find some artisans who actually care about your project. That can be a challenge, especially if your in a small town. Other things require parts to be designed and created. The caster blocks (c-hubs) only need a brass insert and screw to replace the shoulder screw. The pics above show the basics. It is not the end result. Some things will be kept under wraps for a least a little while until we all see some really high top-speeds out of the rig.

    On another note, some things can be done that only require buying parts and maybe a Dremel. For instance, the A-arms. I bought 4 different sets of aluminum a-arms before I found one that was actually engineered the way I wanted it to be. I am not an Integy fan by any stretch of the imagination! But after the non-biased test we did on all 4 sets, surprisingly the Integy part came out on top. Their BILLET MACHINED A-arms (T8541BLUE for me) took more abuse than other popular brands and the fitment was perfect other than one small thing which took all of 5 minutes to remedy. The A-arms are the only Integy part on the vehicle.

    Without knowing more about your specific parts, it's difficult to layout any meaningful solution to some of your slop issue. If you want to add a short run-down of what you've got, maybe I can provide you with some specifics that will help in your case. I will always try to reciprocate the assistance that I received from the forum here. I just might need a day or 3. You know... when you have job, wife and kids (and 3 Platinums to work on!) time is short. That's why I have to stay up late and usually have maybe 4-5hrs sleep per night. I catch up some on the weekends though!

    Let me know!

    -Shack
    Last edited by shack351; 04-25-2017 at 07:31 PM.

  21. #101
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluechevy04 View Post
    Where do I sign up for my motor plate!?


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    For now... you can make one! Here's some specs.

    -Shack


    Larger

  22. #102
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Well, I finally pulled the trigger on the Futaba 4PX. I know the TQi RX/TX combo is good, I just don't know if it can provide the granular performance that I need at the speeds I ultimately hope to be going. It was a little squirrely already so I don't think that I want to risk a control issue a 150+. With the 4PX, hopefully that worry is put to rest. The TQi is perfect for my two bashers so that is what they will be used for. At 150mph though, you're moving a football field about every 1.5 seconds. Something a little better was in order.

    Testing/calibrating the controller, and your rig, requires a place to drive it! I ultimately will want at least 1,200ft to be a little on the cautious side. For day-to-day driving, I will settle for less, I'm sure. The public road spot that I currently go to is just too short for anything spectacular, other than maybe a spectacular crash. I did some initial testing there with the 60/31T pinion/spur combo and the road was alright up to 100mph or maybe a little faster. But after my most recent gearing and tire change, it ain't happening! I have "very limited" access to a private air strip and it is about 3,500ft long and 75ft wide. There are no curbs and all sides of the strip go straight from asphalt to grass with zero poles, trees or the like to crash in to. This is the perfect place to let it all hang out. I just have to have everything ready because I will have 20 minutes, or less, to see what she will do. And this can only happen when the right "window" opens up in air traffic. Unfortunately right now, so I've been told, is a somewhat busy time of the year. The weather is beautiful so this makes sense. I will be practicing for a while with the 4PX to get things dialed in and to be well acquainted with its feature set before I ever even attempt to get on the tarmac.

    So... with time to burn waiting for the controller, I thought what the heck, I'm gonna throw some paint on the body. It is still a quick-job because I know this body probably won't last too long! Although, knock on wood, I haven't flipped it yet... which actually surprises me a little. The rear spoiler that I'm trying to make is going to be a must-have item at super-high speeds, at least we think it will be. When I was running the GRPs, I had a spinout and it just spun around a few times and rolled (on the tires) a few feet and stopped. I had to check my shorts! With the Traxxas XO-1 issue tires, the vehicle is MUCH more stable. Do I think they will blowout on me at high speed... yes. I am very nervous about the tires. I have sent multiple emails to John's BSR, from different email addresses even, and got no response from them. There was another high-quality brand that somebody posted about but I can't find the name again. ???

    Anyway, I know there's been enough talk here and people want to see action. I will be posting some video in the very near future. I will be the first to admit that it's taking longer than I thought to make some serious speed runs. After watching as many videos as I have of other guys doing 150+, anything less is just anticlimactic. The biggest obstacle is finding a good place to do practice runs. If I was still in Dallas, I would have access to nice, flat places everywhere. In the foothills of TN however, long and flat secondary roads are few and far between. I spend an hour or so every week scouting for the "right" spot around here. I would rather be cautious, as hard as that is sometimes, than do something really stupid and trash-the-slash.

    Here's a few pics to check out.

    -Shack


    On the advice of a few guys here I went ahead and got an LCFT 31T spur. It has only been abused a few times but it still looks great. The teeth are cut nice and straight and mesh is excellent.




    I've got 3 sets of X-Duty badboys and got tired of looking at black axles. They needed something else so I tried to add a little bling. I like the polished but the brushed-aluminum look isn't bad either.




    Bought some new bodies to tear up. I really dig the SVT Lightning body. It looks like I will need to cutout a relief for the 2028 which might look interesting poking out of the bed.






    Time to paint -






    And last but not least, the GT1 Evolution body. Not done yet but it's getting there. I have a few days to do stuff like this while I wait for the 4PX. I'm still fabricating a rear spoiler as the XO-1 version is simply too small.

    Fresh out of the booth -








    The sticker selection was pretty weak with this body. I am ordering another decal sheet to pick up where the Delta sheet left off.




    Rider, if you see this, sorry for the quality. My old camera just can't hang anymore. This is a tiny sampling of what you can do with 5V addressable LEDs. The camera does them no justice! They look 10 times better in person. These are SK6812s btw.

    Last edited by shack351; 05-02-2017 at 04:02 AM.

  23. #103
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    is that the new truck body fro DeltaPLastik?

  24. #104
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see some full speed blasts!

    Quote Originally Posted by SL4SHGT8BASHER View Post
    is that the new truck body fro DeltaPLastik?
    If you're talking about the Ford Lightning, it's from JConcepts:
    http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/1999-f...g-scalpel-body
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  25. #105
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    gotcha. i've been eyeballing this one:
    http://deltaplastikusa.com/index.php...product_id=495

  26. #106
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    Oops! The Delta Plastik one look more like the right one. Sorry about that!

    Shack- Hope that Lightning fits. The wheel base is what threw me off.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  27. #107
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    Shack how did you polish your MIP axles?

  28. #108
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    they make that one in two wheelbase. 360 is the long one, and i think 325 is the short one. that thing is spanking new release. i'm so jealous right now....

  29. #109
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL4SHGT8BASHER View Post
    is that the new truck body fro DeltaPLastik?
    Yes, it is. Out of all 5 bodies I got from them, the truck body is just better quality plastic or something. If you look at the other bodies, you can see distortions in the plastic. Most don't really show up after painting but they are there. I REALLY like how rounded the truck body is. Don't think it will be used as a top-speed body but it looks like it wouldn't have any problem doing 100! We WILL see!

    -Shack

  30. #110
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Oops! The Delta Plastik one look more like the right one. Sorry about that!

    Shack- Hope that Lightning fits. The wheel base is what threw me off.
    Yeah, like SL4SH, said, it is a new 325mm body. I have been waiting for something like this for a while now. It is nice and thick! I am thinking about painting it to match my '04 Lightning.

    And I hear ya on some speed run videos! I am going to spend all the time I can this weekend driving around trying to find a good, public road to tear up.



    -Shack

  31. #111
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    i bet it's sharp because the mold is brand new. after a while, the mold will develop imperfections. i hope to get one of these first run batches too. probably both versions since my 2wd project has the 360mm wheelbase, but i be it will look hot on my 4x4 street rig.

  32. #112
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadelvi View Post
    Shack how did you polish your MIP axles?
    Lots of elbow grease! Here's is a fairly simple way to do it with only one polishing/buffing compound. There are MANY ways to do this, I am just trying to keep it simple.

    You need to start out with some 320 grit fine sand paper.

    Sand down all bones and output hubs THOROUGHLY until the black coating is gone. If you want a really nice, shiny result, spend another 15 minutes, or more, sanding again with 400 grit super fine. The final outcome will depend heavily on your prep work. Sanding until baby's-bottom smooth is what I aim for.

    Now you will need polish and a buffer. If you have a bench grinder with a buffing wheel, that is the fastest method. I have also done it with a Dremel and it works fine. Just takes a little longer. I have a slew of polishes and most are good. My personal preference for this is Blue Magic. I start by applying a light coating to each piece, one at a time, and give them a good initial buffing. Do this at least 2 more times or until you have a nice, smooth surface.

    I actually like to finish up with the Dremel because I can get in the tight places that need attention. Now, after you have washed and cleaned all the parts with CRC Brakleen or the like, let the chemical fully evaporate. Then apply your final, clean coat of polish and give it a very light pressure, high-speed polishing. This will leave it protected from corrosion. If you have one, use a microfiber cloth on the clean, polished metal as the very last step. They should be nice and shiny and ready to roll.

    This can all be done by hand as well. It will just take a lot longer!

    Good luck!

    -Shack

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack351 View Post
    I have been waiting for something like this for a while now. It is nice and thick! I am thinking about painting it to match my '04 Lightning.



    -Shack
    Nice truck!

    I wish they made the Toyota Tacoma X-Runner bodies. I miss my old truck and would buy a body in an instant if they made one!

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  34. #114
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL4SHGT8BASHER View Post
    i bet it's sharp because the mold is brand new. after a while, the mold will develop imperfections. i hope to get one of these first run batches too. probably both versions since my 2wd project has the 360mm wheelbase, but i be it will look hot on my 4x4 street rig.
    I agree, a new mold is a good thing! Some of the imperfections I am referring to actually look like the mold was not properly cleaned before the Lexan was positioned in the press. I have 2 of the same body and they have "specs" in different places. The plastic on all the bodies except the truck is distorted. I will try to get another pic or two later and post. I love Delta Plastik, don't get me wrong, but they could take the company over the top with just a little work. For example, their website. Many of the bodies they sell have only one picture of it and practically no info! What's up with that! I have built many, many websites for my company over the last 15 years and I just can't quite understand the lack of initiative on their part. They could VERY easily add a few more pics at various angles, pics of the sticker sheet (if one is included) and a few other little things that should be a no-brainer. Oh well, they are still the best (and only) place that I have found with the selection and thickness that they offer!

    -Shack

  35. #115
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Ohhhhh yeah... the 4PX came in and it is NICE! I went ahead and moved the Savox 1211SG into the speedster and it is unbelievable. I installed the Futaba RX with the 1256TG still in it, tried it out (it was nice!), and then swapped it for the 1211SG. WOW is all I can say! It is super-fast, accurate, quiet and is purely just an impressive piece. I wish I would have taken a video of the 1256SG, which is a great servo as well, before I removed it. Spent 3hrs reading the owners manual last night and writing down different things to be tweaked. The options seem endless! Its' supposed to be raining so tonight will be a good night for implementation.

    -Shack








  36. #116
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Looks good shack! Cant wait to see those other bodies painted up.
    "Gone racing"

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashMaxx4x4 View Post
    Looks good shack! Cant wait to see those other bodies painted up.
    Thanks brother! I think the truck is next in line. I'm gonna try to get a smoke-test in this weekend and see how the air around it acts. I'd love to see a brick, I mean truck, do 150!

    -Shack

  38. #118
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    i love that your motor wires are almost as big around as the tekno shaft and that the pinion is bigger than the spur LOL. nice work.

    does that motor weigh more than the car itself?
    youtube: rizzodtheRCvlogger

  39. #119
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rizz0d View Post
    i love that your motor wires are almost as big around as the tekno shaft and that the pinion is bigger than the spur LOL. nice work.

    does that motor weigh more than the car itself?

    The Castle XLX is a beast, for sure. It is only 8S though. Wait until you see the 15S ESC in Phase II.

    Gearing is usually an inexpensive way to get MPH. An 80T pinion is available but it is not cheap. Let's see what the 60T will do first. Oh yeah, the motor weighs close to 3lbs.

    -Shack
    Last edited by shack351; 05-05-2017 at 02:11 AM.

  40. #120
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    area-51 RC
    Posts
    833
    That 4 px is the only way to go. A real good choice there.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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