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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    What do you think about the stock shocks on the slash VXL 2wd?

    Hi boys,
    I'm thinking of buying a slash 2wd VXL. I am a beginner and am wondering how the stock shocks on the Slash 2wd VXL are?
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    They are decent shocks, the springs were a little soft in my opinion. But it all depends on what you are doing with it.

    If you aren't satisfied with the shocks you could always upgrade to Big Bores or GTR's.
    "Gone racing"

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
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    This is what happen to my stock shocks on my vxl from a 30ft jump

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    It was just like this but I was going much faster and longer jump...the car landed like10ft behind me from where I took this picture

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    QUOTE=GorillaAssazin;6385838]This is what happen to my stock shocks on my vxl from a 30ft jump

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

    Out of curiosity, what would you expect it to do in that situation? I'm surprised you didn't break the bulkhead or an arm as well. As for stock shocks, put aluminum caps and get the right spring rate/ oil and the will perform as well as (pick your favorite brand/big bore) simply because the internals are the same. I would love to have someone prove to me scientifically why big bores, Powerstrokes, etc are "better". Plastic bodies don't store heat like aluminum (or cold for that matter) due to environment or use. In a nutshell, they simply don't look cool. On the scratch builds I do, The plastic rear Slash shock up front is my first choice. Clip below is +/- 30 mph, plastic shocks with aluminum caps.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=buiPmLlOLc0

  6. #6
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    The stock shocks are ok. Many have problems with the top cap popping off, snapping. Also depends on how hard your plan on running your slash.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Well I don't know if I can explain it to you scientifically but here's some truths. Aluminum wicks away heat a lot better than plastic where plastic is more of an insulator. Aluminum shocks by design have the strength advantage where the bodys won't warp due to stress therefore keeping the pistons track straight at all times resulting in a more consistent less probable failure design. In high load, high impact scenarios such as 30ft+ jumps aluminum shock bodies won't warp or bend if bottomed out (in a normal not 1 in a million situation) plastic bodied shocks bear all this load on the bottom cap which is Plastic and prone to bending causing binding.

    From the picture above it looks like a common flex failure caused by the plastic bodies allowing the shaft to flex under high load. When the shaft is allowed to flex too much the piston encounters resistance on the opposite side of the flex causing a bind. Because to shock can't compress the force of the impact forces the shaft out to one side. Again this is all due to the bottom cap being plastic and allowing flex during high impact loads. The aluminum counterpart will hold the shaft much more rigid during the strokes weakest face (full extension) where the shafts 3 points of contact are all less than a 1/4in away from eachother(the piston and the inner and outer o ring are the 3 points of contact)

    Are aluminum shocks stronger? Yes , are they better? Depends on the application but mostly yes

    And finally to answer Ops question, what do I think about the stock shocks? They are great shocks, specially when paired with aluminum caps. Def better than a lot of people give them credit for.
    Proud member of the 10+ post club

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Point well taken. Don't the aftermarket shocks have better shafts, making that the weak link here? Something flexed when something else didnt. As far as the shock body acting as a heat sink, I think you'll find it to do the opposite because of no fins on it (yes, only copper conducts better). Ambient temperature would be an issue with aluminum shocks as well as far as oil viscosity goes. Conductor vs insulator. Next time I'm out I will put the temp gun on my shocks to put it to the myth busters test. Anyone with aluminum, do the same. Guess I'm off track with the op question. Sorry guys.

  9. #9
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    If the ambient temperature is 80 then the aluminum and plastic shock bodies will be 80 and cannot be cooled any less than that. So no matter if the air is whistling past the shock bodies at 10 mph or 50 mph, they will be cooled only to ambient temperature. What really matters is the temperature of the fluid inside the shock so if the oil heats up due to the constant friction then plastic bodies will not be able to dissipate the heat as efficiently as aluminum. In racing you need consistency - you could start with a beautifully-handling truck but it could get pretty sloppy as the race wore on. Bashing situations it is not critical.

    I've never run with the stock plastic shocks so I cannot compare/contrast. I've run Big Bores but liked the look and performance of the GTR ( hard-anodized, PTFE-coated bodies with Ti Nitride shafts) on my Revo so I bought a full set for my Slash. Zero problems with the shocks on either truck; aside from oil changes every year I have yet to replace the first damaged shock part.
    Last edited by Double G; 05-13-2017 at 11:44 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the advice. I wont be running my slash to extreme measures such as a thirty foot jump! But its good to know they work good as long as the oil and springs are set right

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