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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    16

    Stripping servo horns with new metal servo

    I have stripped three plastic servo horns since installing the new metal servo. Contemplating a metal servo horn but fear it will break the servo, should I stay with plastic, any thoughts?

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    16
    Switched to metal servo horn and it blew the servo as expected...sticking to plastic horns

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Scarborough, Western Australia
    Posts
    88
    I already had an aluminium servo horn so I kept using it when I got my new metal servo. It worked well for a little while, but I've just stripped the aluminium gear that the horn connects to (all of the other internal gears are brass). I'm really not sure where to go from here...

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Brampton, ON, Canada
    Posts
    55
    Are you guys using TSM?

    If so, you may need to turn it down. When the xmaxx cartwheels the TSM is still trying to correct by counter steering thus causing more stress on the steering components.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    St. Helens, U.K.
    Posts
    631
    How stiff is the servo saver?
    Can you turn it down a little, if it's too stiff?

    I have stock original servo with alloy horn, turning MTXL wheels / tyres and so far its fine.
    I'm considering the 'X' servo if/as/when the stock one throws in the towel.

    Al.

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Bluelightning2 View Post
    Plastic and metal/aluminum don't go well together.
    I guess I'm hoping the weak point is a 3$ part (horn) and not a new servo!

    Thank for the replys

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    4
    I have found an interesting setup which works well for me. don't get me wrong i have an extra servo for backup but I have the gpm horn which has two positions to mount the rod lower and upper. I get better through with less work on the horn by using the upper position, taking a ceramic circle spacer with a whole in ti and putting it where the arm used to go in the bellc rank for support. Then I take my steel arm with rod end but remove the steel ball. Get a longer screw and lay the rod end on top of the bell crank instead of inside where you have the ceramic support now.Lock it down with a washer on you long 3mm and your good.

    Stock horn, the spongiest on the market, gone,
    plastic arm, gone
    plastic rods , gone
    plastic bell crank support brace, gone

    the difference is night and day.
    Last i need to get the aluminum bell crank and spring to get rid of that nasty side to side play which is left.

    the top bell crank brace is fine if you replace it every once in a while.

    Next time you strip one out. take the spongy horn and red locktite it on the stripped horn gear. take a screw twice the size of the stock and screw it in which will expand the plastic and works well for the time. When you get the replacement just take a hack saw and cut the horn off and replace. works well in a pinch

  8. #8
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    141
    Are you using locktite on the screw to secure the servo horn? When I first installed mine, it slipped my mind that it was metal on metal. It worked itself out and stripped the horn while it was loose.

    Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

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