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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
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    652

    WOW! I can't wait for more details... Anyone planning to race this?

    If I were still racing stock 1/10 scale on-road I'd be ALL over the Ford GT right now trying to find the ins and outs of it all. Just what the Traxxas range has been missing, a great shaft drive 1/10 scale on road chassis.

    It is a bit wide, but for club level racing it won't matter, Traxxas toughness and support goes a LONG way I want to know if it will work with 1.9 wheels, this is crucial for racing as you won't get anywhere without the right tyres.

    Also the stock drive ratio is 9.49, does anyone know how low can you get it? Low enough to race with 17.5T or 21.5T motors? Can you get it to a ratio lower than 4.5?

    Please watch the language in your posts. The *s meant that a word was filtered and needed to be edited. Thanks.
    ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 05-17-2017 at 08:13 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    22
    The club I belong to is planning a spec class for this car on the carpet. They
    race indoors starting in the fall. I am thinking of buying this car for such a class.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
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    652
    Cool, let us know how it goes.

    The only two things I can see as being possible problems are the width and the gear ratios. Not all clubs will be happy with you racing a 200mm car against 190mm cars, but some will Like VTA or many local Clubman style classes here in the UK.

    If the ratios are doable for 17.5/21.5T stock racing I'm REALLY interested! The chassis looks REALLY neat and has lots of little cool features and details:

    * Firstly it is low maintenance shaft drive
    * It has droop screws which is unusual for an entry level beginner grade plastic tub chassis
    * The location of the servo saver is nice and shows the level of thought Traxxas engineers put into this design
    * The unique and neat battery holder design
    * The way the little cover keeps the motor cables tidy
    * The fixed mesh system prevents damage to gears, this is cool! Provided that you can get the FDR low enough for stock motors.

    And all the usual Traxxas advantages; great quality materials, awesome supports, etc...

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Houston, Texas
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    607
    the FDR is the kicker... i was reading on another forum that the stock ratio is 9.46 which is way too high for the 4.0-ish ratio they talk about in VTA and USGT. since the only spur option (so far) is 70 tooth, it would need a 55 tooth pinion if the diff ratio is 2.85.
    one could certainly mod the spur gear to use a sl2sh clutch plate like they did in that speed run video when the car first came out.
    there are soooooo many places this car has potential that i hope traxxas or somebody starts selling hop-up parts.
    my wish list would be...
    1) optional hinge-pin mounts for the rear to add toe in. the way it is designed makes me feel like this will happen...
    2) spur gear options
    3) shock towers with more mounting hole options.
    4) wheel mounting hexes (with or without the disk brake) that would allow for standard USGT wheels. the VTA ones seem to fit fine on the stock setup, but the disk brakes make it hard to run most other wheels.

    i have other wishes, but those would be the top 4. i ordered some adjustable turnbuckles to test out too.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
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    Jun 2012
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    Nottingham, UK
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    652
    Perhaps that's the thing to do, fitting a smaller spur would allow you to fit much bigger pinions, it is about finding the options that will allow you to mesh both correctly with the pre-drilled holes. I've done similar things with entry level TCs from other brands to get the gear ratios down to levels that allow you to use 17.5T blinky.

    And good point on the hexes, personally I'd like to run my usual Schumacher tyres and wheels that are the norm on most tracks here.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    607
    i have been using the front hex for a rustler on all 4 corners, but it is still not quite enough for the rear. the contact foams just barely clear the chassis in the back, and the steering arm in the front. these are 9mm thick. i can't seem to find any clamping hexes thicker than that. i found some 15 and 18mm hexes but they are too long. it would be nice to have 11, 12, or 13mm thick. or maybe different rear arms

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    8
    I haven't seen any mention of it on this section of the forum in my search but the GT body is a problem for racing. Happens to everyone who runs with this body in the 4tec spec class at our club. The rear wheels get caught up into the body and it holds it back. Occurs whenever there is a hit or bump from another car in a race. Car locks down and only way to get loose and get moving again is to go into reverse (which you aren't allowed) or a marshall come out onto the track to unhook the body away from the rear wheel. Made me mad on several occasions since I lost many race positions in several races when this occurred.

    I'm looking most likely to dump my GT body now and building a Protoform Vette C7R body for the spec class now. I will try to Shoe Goo the body onto the tail better to see if will help it and I will try running with it one more time. It will make it a little stiffer and not be able to flex as much to get caught under the wheels I hope. I could dremel the rear fender by the wheel but if I do that I know it will decrease the body value for resale and I'd probably just sell because all I'm doing is racing it at the club.

  8. #8
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Electronut View Post
    I haven't seen any mention of it on this section of the forum in my search but the GT body is a problem for racing. Happens to everyone who runs with this body in the 4tec spec class at our club. The rear wheels get caught up into the body and it holds it back. Occurs whenever there is a hit or bump from another car in a race. Car locks down and only way to get loose and get moving again is to go into reverse (which you aren't allowed) or a marshall come out onto the track to unhook the body away from the rear wheel. Made me mad on several occasions since I lost many race positions in several races when this occurred.

    I'm looking most likely to dump my GT body now and building a Protoform Vette C7R body for the spec class now. I will try to Shoe Goo the body onto the tail better to see if will help it and I will try running with it one more time. It will make it a little stiffer and not be able to flex as much to get caught under the wheels I hope. I could dremel the rear fender by the wheel but if I do that I know it will decrease the body value for resale and I'd probably just sell because all I'm doing is racing it at the club.
    The GT spec class is the reason I initially went to check out the racing at dirtunner's. The stock bodies and servos seemed to cause the most problems. My car is no longer stock so if I ever get to the point of racing in that class I would use one of the allowed VTA class bodies.
    3RusterXL5
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