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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015

    Handling 6S Power

    Hi All,
    I'm looking for some recommendations on how to proceed. Every time I use my 3S batteries, my slipper clutch gets knocked out of whack or some other part of the transmission is almost guaranteed to fail in some way. I could rebuild or upgrade the slipper clutch with one of the tougher options out there but I'm looking for a little more guidance. When I got my E-Revo, the manual & LHS assured me that no modifications would be necessary when moving to 6S power, but my experience has consistently proven otherwise. I'd really appreciate it if one of the more experienced E-Revo owners out there would be willing to pass along a list of upgrades/adjustments that will help my truck handle the extra power & complete a run without having to quit early to head back to the work bench.


  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    did you break in the slipper??

    Slipper Clutch Break-In
    The E-Revo Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in procedure
    to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power output of
    the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor system. The
    slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting for break-in.
    Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life from your
    slipper clutch:
    1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
    7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
    2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
    accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
    whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
    3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
    seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
    the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
    slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, test-drive
    the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow the
    slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut turn (turn the
    nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the slipper
    clutch before it has cooled.
    4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
    noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
    slipper should be fully broken in.
    After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
    batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
    (if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
    slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with a
    loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the slipper
    cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper nut and
    resuming driving.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    SunDevil I am a relatively new E-Revo owner so you can take what I say with a grain of salt, but i will share my experience and what I have upgraded as I run exclusively 6s. I have spent what amounts to almost 9 months between researching and actual tinkering to run my E-Revo reliably on 6s. I received my E-Revo on Christmas day from Santa however, prior to that I was researching what issues individuals were having and what parts worked. The funny thing is this hobby started for me on a $15 Gravedigger r/c truck from Walmart for my 4 year old. I did not have the slightest clue about how big the world of R/C cars and trucks actual is (not even including air and sea). Before I could convince my Wife and Santa, I first needed to understand what is involved. So from September through December that is exactly what I did, and I am still learning and enjoying this hobby as I use it as a form of therapy.

    Regardless here is a list of a few of the improvements I have made that given how terrible of a driver I am have made it the most reliable for me operating under 6s, YMMV.

    I burnt the slipper clutch out the first time I ever used my ERBE because I didn't follow the above steps. Regardless, I used stock for a bit then I upgraded to the Hot Racing TRX15GP Heavy Duty Slipper Clutch with 6 TRX15GS Graphite / Carbon Fiber pads, and have not looked back sense. Side note, did anyone else notice the TRX-4 uses a twin friction plate slipper clutch? I'm not familiar with crawlers so I'm not sure if this is a "stock or normal" feature.

    Additionally I upgraded both center and axle drive shafts to MIP (Moore's Ideal Products). The Center Drive Shafts are MIP Part# 08138 and the MIP Drive Shafts Part# is 11101. The reason I went with MIP over others is because of the YouTube video posted below by groutaone conducting a "scientific" bench mark of the strengths of various axle brands for the ERBE.

    I learned fairly quickly the differentials have issues with handling 6s power, not to mention it is well documented on the issues associated with the differentials. I have read threads of individuals bashing Traxxas to high heaven and complaining about Traxxas putting 1/10 scale diffs in a 1/8 scale truck but providing no solution blah, blah blah, etc. To me my kids complain and whine about stuff like that, for me I actually enjoyed the differentials being configured the way they are, they work fine for 4s and NiMH but I enjoy 6s so it presented a problem and a challenge on how to get the differentials to be reliable while using 6s. Which, I feel is part of this hobby, tinkering to get the vehicle to run how you want it to, it provided great therapy for me to tinker on it. Other individuals have done the LST-2 differential mod which requires the shaving of some of the bulkhead material, which because I have destroyed 4 bulkheads in the time frame of 4 months because I am a terrible driver this was not an options for me.

    I decided to upgrade the housings, bearings. gearing and add the rear chassis brace. I used Avid R/C Ceramic Revolution bearings throughout the vehicle but the main area of concern was of course the differentials and the transmission. Ceramic ball bearings are harder, more reliable in high RPM settings, and have a reduced risk of seizing. Because they are harder they have less flex under load then metal bearings, which was a key area of concern for me throughout the re-build of the differential, reducing and eliminating flex. Not having an engineering degree or any formal engineering classes it was my theory that a lot of the differential failures I had, had to do with the flex experienced under high torque that led to gear meshing issues which would lead to differential failure. My upgrades focused on trying to harden and stiffen the differential, which included both the carrier case / cup and outer housings to the products offered by Hot Racing. Hot Racing Part #RVO11X06 for the differential carrier case / cup and Hot Racing Part# RVO11MX01 for the outer differential case (RVO11MX01 uses different size bearings then stock so if replacing them take note). I also upgraded the ring and pinion gear set to the Hot Racing Part# SRVO1337T Steel Helical Spiral Differential Ring / Pinion Gear Set. I am still using the stock differential gears, although there are a few vendors that make hardened steel differential spider gears once, I upgraded to the previously mentioned parts I have had zero issues with my differentials, of course YMMV. Hope this helps a little.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Thanks for all of that info! I did go through the break-in process, albeit quite a long time ago. I drove the truck for quite a while alternative between 2S & NiMH batteries. While I'm sure the additional drive train upgrades mentioned above would be beneficial in a number of ways, I've really reached my R/C budget limit for a while...I recently picked up a Losi 1/5 MTXL & was definitely not expecting (a) the parts to be so expensive, and (b) that I would break something on every run & basically be forced into spending way more than I thought would be required after dropping $1300 on the truck itself.

    Anyway, I'm looking for more of a temporary solution to the E-Revo slipper clutch issue that'll give me a few hours of bashing while I scrape together enough pennies to upgrade some parts. I do have the Hot Racing drive shafts, but this specific issue is definitely directly related to the slipper clutch. I can just tighten it back up most of the time and it'll be fine (until it comes undone again). The overall transmission definitely doesn't sound right when I roll it back and forth by hand. I'll try to posts some video of this later. I'm definitely planning on doing the upgraded slipper clutch but is there anything I can do to secure it a little better in the meantime?

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Thats a very odd issue... You did the full breakin process, tightened the nut all the way tight and backed out at least 1/8 - 1/4turn and after every run you have to retighten? How far do you untighten? You situation sounds exactly like a slipper that hasnt been properly broken in... but even if you didnt, i would certainly expect it too now. You check the pads as well, they super thin? I mean i run my slipper super tight and rarely have to mess it it. I bought the hr carbon pads after a year, pulled it apart and my existing pads didnt even need replaced.

    I run exclusively on 6s as well now for almost two years on the same truck. Ive broken a single dog bone (which traxxas replaced for free, outside of my warranty) Only ever had to replace oil in my diffs, 1 broekn skid plate and the pins i lost when my skidplates died, but my out drives are getting pretty wore out and could use a replacement. I do run heavily on a smaller track with 8th scales, but also in a dirt parking lot, contruction sites and other bashing from time to time. But bashing does wear a bit more on her then a nice all dirt substrate of the track.

    That being said a few things... I know many guys who break their revos every 15 mins on 6s. Your drive habits are HUGE! These guys just slam full 6s throttle landing jumps, through bumps and put way to much power down in high stress turns/traction situations. They dont ease the throttle, use that power when it really needs it and be more gentle on the truck. 99% of the time trying to throw down that much power does you nothing but put more stress on your parts. Imagine having a sup'd up lamborgini, only with like 2500+ horsepower instead of 500(or w/e) and complaining that you broke and axle or transmission gear after a "few hours" of spinning cookies at full throttle in the parking lot!

    Lol, i know its a gross generalization and you may by no means drive like that, but i see it all the time with new revo owners. With great power come great responsibility! And heres what i currently have in my revo, but i doubt any of it will change your slipper issue, my rpm arms however have probably saved me a lot of other parts breaking (but they do bend a bit easy and have to fix my dog bones kickin out regularly)

    -Rpm arms all around(Tru track conv)
    -traxxas cvds
    -traxxas brace and sway bars
    -tekno skid plates (just gottem)
    -single servo (alturn evo p2) with castle bec (new this year)
    -strc single aluminum servo arm (new)
    - servo hd spring, high travel servo guard

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015

    E-Revo Slipper Clutch

    I can't thank you guys enough for such comprehensive replies. I'm guessing the cause of the problem was likely a combination of the following:

    (1) half-assed initial break-in
    (2) imprecise/careless trackside slipper adjustments
    (3) Driving habits ranging from controlled, experienced R/C'er to holy crap I can't believe how much more power this is has than my old NiCD-powered 7.2V Ultima Pro I have no choice but to mash the throttle and try not to giggle like a school-girl

    I don't claim to have babied this truck. Some might say I've beaten it down pretty good...though now that I read through the entirety of the slipper clutch break-in instructions, which I know I attempted, I'm sure I was careless. There's something very different between my new-ish R/C bug after a 20-year hiatus...back when I was 13-14, I could wrench on my car all night and enjoyed the building/modding/repairs as much as the driving. Fast-forward 20+ years and I just wanna drive 'em. If I could afford a private R/C mechanic to handle all repair work & upgrades, I could see it now...."Smithers, can u please prepare the Losi 5T for a desert outing this weekend & go ahead and pack up the car with everything we'll need."

    I've taken apart 1/2 of the drivetrain & haven't noticed anything worn too interrupted by a severe diff leak on my MTXL so the E-Revo has relinquished its workbench space for the time being. I'm sure after I rebuild the slipper clutch and replace any worn parts that I'll be able to proceed running 6S without a problem there.

    Question is - while I've got the thing apart - would you guys recommend any other specific modifications/upgrades to the gearing? Adjustments to the ratio? I want to put this thing back together with a fully bullet-proof drivetrain.

    Thanks again.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    I run mine exclusively on 6s and have come to the conclusion that there is no bulletproof solution. This truck is heavy and makes a lot of power. Castle claims 4-5000w which translates to 5-6hp and it comes on 100% off 0 RPM. That should be at least in the back of your mind when you're bashing around.

    I have my ESC punch control set to medium and got a robinsonracing clutch. This goes a long way to protect the drivetrain from the sudden torque shock from the motor. Drivetrain mods are LST diffs + Keyshaw dogbones + summit axles. This way when something does break it will most likely be a $4 axle tube that takes 10 minutes to replace. This setup has been good to me even on some big 40 series trenches.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Fueler941's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Venice, FL
    I have been running my E-Revo on 6s since the first day I have owned it. Even broke it in on 6s. Never had an issue yet. :P

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