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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Advice on repairs please

    So I just took my new truck out for the first time and my enthusiasm far outweighed my talent. Long story short, the camber plate snapped and bent the pin that goes through the steering knuckle. Also the white bit popped off the steering servo.

    Replacing the steering knuckle and camber plate looks simple enough but the part of the steering servo doesn't seem to attach in any way. Anyone know how this goes together?

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Ok, looks like it's the 'servo saver' is the white bit I was on about. Can't see how that goes together.

  3. #3
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    Just found this image which shows what must be a spring inside, so guessing mine busted open and lost some bits.



    Wonder if the spring is replaceable?

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    That is the servo saver, just buy another one and you are in business.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJH57&P=ML

    Just in case you need it, here are the steps for installing the servo saver:

    1. Find the right servo adapter and put it in the servo saver.
    2. Bolt the servo saver on to the control arms.
    3. Turn on the radio and truck.
    4. Zero the steering trim
    5. While holding the wheels as straight as possible, put the servo saver on to the servo output spline. Don't worry about seating it all of they way down, just put it on the servo enough so that it will stay when you let go if it. (You might need an extra pair of hands to hold the wheels straight).
    -- When the servo saver goes on, the wheels might not be exactly straight.
    6. Turn off the truck
    7. Push the servo saver all of the way on.
    8. Install the servo saver screw through the middle of the servo saver.
    9. Turn on the truck and use the steering trim to get the wheels straight.
    10. Using the radio, turn the wheels full left and right to check for full travel in both directions. Make sure you are not driving the steering into the stops (you will hear the servo complain). Use the radios end-point controls to adjust the end points if needed.
    11. Put the truck on the ground and slowly drive it, adjust the steering trim so that it is going straight. Cycle the steering making sure everything works right.
    12. Put the body on and drive it like you rented it!!!!
    Last edited by Greatscott; 05-26-2017 at 05:26 PM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the instructions! I've not seen this end point controls so will look into that, the rest seems pretty straight forward. New bits being ordered tomorrow, shame it's a public holiday here Monday and no where locally has parts so going to have to wait a few more days before putting it back together.

  6. #6
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    Here is the damage in picture form...








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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JerrysMaxx's Avatar
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    suggest going with aluminum castor blocks (Traxxas or STRC) and while your at it but not necessary the Kimbrough 124 servo saver is awesome...
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FYc1aQodb_EPHw

    Minor damage but easily repaired repairing is just as much fun as driving them IMO
    T/SportMax/Slayer Pro/Bandit
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  8. #8
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerrysMaxx View Post
    suggest going with aluminum castor blocks (Traxxas or STRC) and while your at it but not necessary the Kimbrough 124 servo saver is awesome...
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FYc1aQodb_EPHw

    Minor damage but easily repaired repairing is just as much fun as driving them IMO

    Inexpensive (and common) repair if your run with stock castor blocks. Jerry gave your good advice about going to aluminum on those pieces. I would suggest a screw kit too along with some blue loctite.
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I understand why people do upgrade, but I've just ordered stock ones for now. For the price of wrecking 5 pairs over an ally set it just makes more sense for the time being. One concern I have with hardening a weak point is that it would move the failure point elsewhere possible to a more expensive component.

    Found another spot of damage just now which was that the suspension cap had popped up a couple threads. Easily fixed by unscrewing and retightening

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JerrysMaxx's Avatar
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    Aluminum shock caps are a must and will eliminate the them popping off. The castor blocks are a must also to keep from making bananas out of the pins. I also use them with aluminum carriers.
    Failure points? naw its called hitting things that don't move! Ask jv about trees .
    Going with aluminum castors and carriers is a no brain'er, IMO are the weakest points of any rc.
    T/SportMax/Slayer Pro/Bandit
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  11. #11
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
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    Your thought process is good and it is your choice to stay stock but those pins bend easily. One of my Rusty's had a slight bend and I never crashed it. At least splurge on the aluminum shock caps in the future. Popping the stock plastic caps is another common issue although one that I haven't had happen to me yet lol.

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  12. #12
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Its been noted! They are all parts that are on the "upgrade list" for the future.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Listen to JerrysMaxx. He has given you excellent advice. Get aluminum castor blocks. Part # 63632X. You will also need new kingpins since they are, as Jerry said, "banana" shaped now. Part # 3640.

    Advice: Buy at least a couple servo savers. Part # 3744. That way, the next time an evil tree jumps out at your Pede, your day of play is only interrupted and not ended.
    Obstacle Magnet

  14. #14
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    Pins, blocks and a saver are on order and hopefully be with me tomorrow. The next time they go they will probably get the upgrade treatment. I'll get a saver in stock too just incase.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    I understand that you have already replaced the broken castor block with stock plastic. No worries but I recommend that you order aluminum now. The number one, immediate, absolutely mandatory upgrade for all Traxxas 2wd vehicles is aluminum castor blocks. The plastic castor blocks are the weakest part of the vehicle. The stock plastic castor blocks flex causing the king pin to bend subsequently ruining the steering. There really is no reason to have plastic castor blocks unless you run at a very slow speed on a glass-smooth surface. Just my $0.02 and many years of experience.
    Obstacle Magnet

  16. #16
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    I've taken a closer look at the truck today following your advice, and can see the other pin is bent too! So yes, I now see how they flex and bend easily. I've managed to get the truck back together. The servo is between teeth which is really annoying as you have to run a lot of trim one way or the other.

    Is it possible to recenter the splines on the serve?

    As both pins were bent and the ones I ordered were the wrong ones I've had to put these in a vice and straighten them with a little brute force. It will do for the time being, but the ally castor blocks are definitely the next purchase!

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JerrysMaxx's Avatar
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    You may have to center your wheels by adjusting the steering rods. Takes a little time to get it all set up but you should not have to move the trim knob if set correctly.
    For king pins I usually use the STRC ST3640-FK pins...
    http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1140
    or the Traxxas pins 3740
    Last edited by JerrysMaxx; 06-02-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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  18. #18
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    I had thought about adjusting the track rods, but when the servo centres when it turns on, there is no way the saver can be placed centrally, you have to drop a spline to the left or right. Adjusting the track rod will still mean there is more turn one way than the other. Not the biggest of issues seeing as it spends most of its time with front wheels in the air or plowing through understeer, but annoying none the less, and an issue I'd rather sort for my own self satisfaction.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    I've taken a closer look at the truck today following your advice, and can see the other pin is bent too! So yes, I now see how they flex and bend easily.

    As both pins were bent and the ones I ordered were the wrong ones I've had to put these in a vice and straighten them with a little brute force. It will do for the time being, but the ally castor blocks are definitely the next purchase!
    Unfortunately, a lot of the things I know I learned the hard way ($).


    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    The servo is between teeth which is really annoying as you have to run a lot of trim one way or the other.

    Is it possible to recenter the splines on the serve?
    I'm not really sure what you are saying. It seems obvious to me that on a P2de the steering rods should both be of identical lengths, 96mm center to center each.

    It seems you already know this but here goes. If you remove the servo saver, center the steering trim knob, and then turn on the power, the servo centers. Then you can reattach the saver as close to straight as possible and lastly perfectly center the steering via the trim knob. This is the only procedure I know of.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by jvogel; 06-02-2017 at 11:34 AM.
    Obstacle Magnet

  20. #20
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    That's exactly what I was doing with the saver. I was just noting that the spline is either to the left or right of centre so it requires a lot of trim adjust to make it straight after. Maybe it's normal.

    I was about 3 mins in to today's outing and the spur gear gets chewed. It's been in contact with the housing as there are score marks inside. I have a spare already. While I was killing that the rear shock popped a cap. Gotta get some oil tomorrow then it's a rebuild and hopefully an outing on Sunday. Probably rain then lol

    I'm not having much luck with mine. My sons he been bullet proof so far!!


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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Yeah, my P2de takes a beating. It seems to desire it. Or it's probably just what I do to mine.

    What I did to my P2de:

    Castle Creations Mamba X and Neu-Castle 2400kv motor on 3S LiPo - geared 15/58 (32 pitch).
    Mount the rear A-arms to the lower hole on the hub carrier and mount the inside camber link mount to the upper hole (cutting off a bit of the shock tower) to keep the geometry correct. This made the drive shafts close to parallel with the A-arms and the ground, minimizing strain on the joints for minimal torque loss.

    Savox metal gears to replace the plastic gears inside the Traxxas 2075 servo – SG-SC0251MG
    Kimbrough large extra strong servo saver — 124
    STRC red aluminum shock caps — ST2267R (because the stock plastic kept popping off)
    Traxxas titanium shock shafts — 2765T & 2656T
    Losi linear springs — LOSA-5132 & LOSA-5160
    Stock pistons and Team Associated shock oil front 45 / back 45
    adjustable rear camber links — Traxxas 3643
    STRC suspension pins with nylon lock nuts — ST3640BK
    STRC aluminum castor blocks — ST3632R
    STRC 12mm aluminum lock-pin hex hubs ST3654-12GM
    T-Bone Racing bumper / wheelie bar: F317-TBR NM rear / B205 T-Bar set - 62086
    RPM Slash front bumper — 80952
    RPM gear case with 3 toe-in — 73612
    Traxxas Drive Shafts Rear Steel Spline — TRA 1951R
    2.8" Pro-Line Trencher tires/wheels
    RPM wide front A-arms - 70662
    Traxxas long camber links - 3643
    Traxxas long toe links - 2338
    SMC 3S LiPo packs
    Custom mounted stock Traxxas Rustler body since all the rest I tried couldn't hold up to the beating.
    I'm sure I'm missing something.


    Run all hot summer day without issue.

    Jumps way over my head but I still flinch.
    Obstacle Magnet

  22. #22
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    I'm hoping that once I get the shocks done and camer blocks replaced it will hold up enough for a while. Spur gear hasn't lasted very long but I'm guessing that is because it was catching on the casing.

  23. #23
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    Here is the casing...




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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    I'm hoping that once I get the shocks done and camer blocks replaced it will hold up enough for a while. Spur gear hasn't lasted very long but I'm guessing that is because it was catching on the casing.
    Yes, I understand that issue. All of my bash 2wd RCs are Traxxas (Rusty, P2de, & Sla2h). All of them have 32 pitch gears and no gear cover.
    Obstacle Magnet

  25. #25
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    Is it a common issue then? I may take the dremmel to the inside of it and make a bit more clearance.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    I recommend using no gear cover and 32 pitch gears because the 32s just chew up and spit out debris, they are less prone to getting out of mesh, less likely to strip, and are far more durable.

    Only my 1/10 race RCs use 48 pitch and a cover.
    Obstacle Magnet

  27. #27
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    hmm... something else to look at there then! Seems like an ever growing list at the moment! Thanks for all your advice on this. Is defo more involved that I was expecting.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    hmm... something else to look at there then! Seems like an ever growing list at the moment! Thanks for all your advice on this. Is defo more involved that I was expecting.
    This is why the RC hobby is called an addiction. Because it is.
    Obstacle Magnet

  29. #29
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    Yeah I can see that starting already... been working on a shell this week while the truck was down and the price has shocked me when you add it all up!

  30. #30
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    This is why the RC hobby is called an addiction. Because it is.
    I am an addict and I admit it



    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    Yeah I can see that starting already... been working on a shell this week while the truck was down and the price has shocked me when you add it all up!
    Nooo.. never add up "The List".. just hand over the cash and pretend it never happened haha!

    Other then the stuff most would say are mandatory immediate upgrades you can just replace things as stuff breaks.
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  31. #31
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    Just had confirmation that the parts have arrived for our trucks. Ally castor blocks and shock caps. So got an evening of truck work ahead of me

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