Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Few questions.

  1. #1
    RC Racer h2rac3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    223

    Few questions.

    First of all, I've equipped the low cg chassis and the front springs that come with the kit. I've noticed that it drops the front by a very marginal difference. And the back is raised up. I've taken the back shock spacers off and now it drops the back by a lot. How could I raise up the back and the front?

    Secondly, and finally, what should I WD-40? It prevents rust and removes it but I've seen that I should be wary about it touching the plastics. If that is the case then I'll remove what is to be WD-40'd. Should I just do the blackened metal, or all of the metal?

    Used Tapatalk. When I ain't in school, I'm bashing my Slash.
    When I ain't at school I'm racing my Slash

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    PM me if you want to bash near Grass Valley, CA
    Posts
    3,144
    Quote Originally Posted by h2rac3r View Post
    How could I raise up the back and the front?
    A: shock spacers and/or changing the mounting position on the A-arms.

    Quote Originally Posted by h2rac3r View Post
    ...what should I WD-40?
    A: that is used to soften rock-hard tires and to cover metal parts before and after bashing in water or snow. WD-40 --- the WD stands for Water Displacement.

    The motor gets 3 in 1 Motor Oil. The rest of the outside gets silicone lube and the internals get grease.
    Obstacle Magnet

  3. #3
    RC Racer h2rac3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    223
    Thank you. Good thing I got the 3-1 oil.

    Used Tapatalk. When I ain't in school, I'm bashing my Slash.
    When I ain't at school I'm racing my Slash

  4. #4
    RC Racer h2rac3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    223
    Is this what you mean by 3 in 1 oil?

    Used Tapatalk. When I ain't in school, I'm bashing my Slash.
    Last edited by h2rac3r; 05-27-2017 at 09:09 AM.
    When I ain't at school I'm racing my Slash

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    PM me if you want to bash near Grass Valley, CA
    Posts
    3,144
    Yep. Just one drop where the shaft exits the motor is needed after running a few LiPo packs.
    Obstacle Magnet

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    371
    Because the penetration index is high, the 3 in 1 oil is not to bad for many things, such as wheels bearings and steering set up, and the flashpoint (the temp where the oil burn) of the oil is about 315f.. so that lets a wide security margin, however because this oil is thin it have tendency to evaporate very fast and the oil is easily wash by water, and for my personal taste I like the use of dry graphite to prepare the motor bearing before using the 3 in 1. That put an additional security when the 3 in 1 is wasted.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  7. #7
    RC Racer h2rac3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    223
    Well, I don't have a LiPo battery, yet. Right now gotta Traxxas Series 3 NiMH. Piece of crap. And could I put the oil directly into the motor? See I have a Titan 12T so it has holes in it. So would I put the oil directly in? Still need to upgrade to VXL. And a new battery.
    When I ain't at school I'm racing my Slash

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    371
    Quote Originally Posted by h2rac3r View Post
    And could I put the oil directly into the motor? See I have a Titan 12T so it has holes in it. So would I put the oil directly in?

    The oil, like water, has tendency to conduct electricity very well, so that could short circuited the motor itself or also the ESC and there no need to put oil inside a brushed motor, because the only parts which rubs together are the motor shaft and the brass bushings. But the good news are that the two Titan bushings are well accessible, so like mentioned by Jvogel, a drop where the shafts exits the motor is needed after running a few Lipo's but with bushings better need to put the oil when the motor is warm, cause this way the bushings would be expanded by the heat and the oil infiltration will be better.
    Last edited by MECHANIC77; 05-29-2017 at 10:50 AM.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    371
    Quote Originally Posted by MECHANIC77 View Post
    because the only parts which rubs together are the motor shaft and the brass bushings.


    I don't want to induce anybody wrong here.. So yes in a brushed motor it has also the two brushes who rubs against the rotor shaft. And if ever we want to regenerate a brushed motor power and energy efficiency, it exist a simple solution, all we have to do is to clean the inside of the motor with some electric contact cleaner and then it's possible to aplies a shot of dry graphite directly where the brushes make contact with the rotor.



    I should really have to reread myself and now I hope that I will look like less stupid than I am..
    Last edited by MECHANIC77; 05-29-2017 at 01:28 PM.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •