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Thread: Super FLM Build

  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Super FLM Build

    Greetings!

    I am starting a build project and would appreciate ya'lls advice. I will document the build as parts/assembly arrive.

    I'm starting with a FLM super chasis for the Stampede 2wd.

    Question 1: Should I look at a different Motor/ESC than the vileneon?

    Question 2: Are traxxas big bore shocks good enough for the extra weight of the chasis? I do plan on doing a metal gear box as well, and a few other metal parts but not all.

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    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Alright! Another 1/8 Pede build. I've got one on the back burner, myself, and the box of parts is slowly building. Regarding the Velineon motor, I think it'll depend on whether you put big wheels/tires on it. The chassis itself is not overly heavy, but the weight might add up if you throw on heavy 1/8 scale tires. I'm going to have all RPM a-arms, but most of the rest of the parts are going to be STRC aluminum, with the exception of an Integy gearbox, which is coming off my Rustler. I'm planning on running a higher torque, lower KV motor, like under 3000KV.
    For shocks, Big Bores might suffice. I'm going to upgrade a set of stock Ultra Shocks with STRC aluminum bodies + TiNi shafts, which'll probably be equivalent in performance. Look forward to seeing how yours comes along, as I may not get mine started for another couple of months.

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Alright! Another 1/8 Pede build. I've got one on the back burner, myself, and the box of parts is slowly building. Regarding the Velineon motor, I think it'll depend on whether you put big wheels/tires on it. The chassis itself is not overly heavy, but the weight might add up if you throw on heavy 1/8 scale tires. I'm going to have all RPM a-arms, but most of the rest of the parts are going to be STRC aluminum, with the exception of an Integy gearbox, which is coming off my Rustler. I'm planning on running a higher torque, lower KV motor, like under 3000KV.
    For shocks, Big Bores might suffice. I'm going to upgrade a set of stock Ultra Shocks with STRC aluminum bodies + TiNi shafts, which'll probably be equivalent in performance. Look forward to seeing how yours comes along, as I may not get mine started for another couple of months.
    I look forward to seeing your project as well.

    I ordered the wide rpm a-arms for the front and plan on using front wheels on the back to match the width. I decided to go with green parts, and I ordered traxxas green front knuckles/castor and rear bearing carriers. Also ordered STRC skid plates (in green metal,) for the front and rear.

    Two questions for you:
    1. That lower KV motor sounds good, which brand/models do you like? And are there special things that need to be considered when hooking up a transmitter?

    2. The gear box you mentioned was Integy, have you seen the FLM box, and which do you like better?

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    For me, I prefer the Castle Creations Mamba X with a Neu-Castle 2400kv motor on 3s LiPo. This combo will move any weight you throw on your P2de including stupidly oversized tires.
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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    For me, I prefer the Castle Creations Mamba X with a Neu-Castle 2400kv motor on 3s LiPo. This combo will move any weight you throw on your P2de including stupidly oversized tires.
    Thank you for the suggestions. I was looking at Castle's motors/escs. Will the 1/8th scale motor work in the stampede tranny? They have so many different combos, how do you choose one?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    My suggestion was a 1/10 scale system. Trust me, it's more than overkill!
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    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    I look forward to seeing your project as well.

    I ordered the wide rpm a-arms for the front and plan on using front wheels on the back to match the width. I decided to go with green parts, and I ordered traxxas green front knuckles/castor and rear bearing carriers. Also ordered STRC skid plates (in green metal,) for the front and rear.

    Two questions for you:
    1. That lower KV motor sounds good, which brand/models do you like? And are there special things that need to be considered when hooking up a transmitter?

    2. The gear box you mentioned was Integy, have you seen the FLM box, and which do you like better?
    Ha! I'm doing green, also (thinking about a Grave Digger body). The main reason I'm doing the Integy gearbox is because it's green, and I was taking it off my Rustler, anyway. I have seen the FLM gearbox, but I actually prefer the look of the Integy gearbox. The FLM has a more raw, unrefined look to it. Just my opinion, though.

    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    For me, I prefer the Castle Creations Mamba X with a Neu-Castle 2400kv motor on 3s LiPo. This combo will move any weight you throw on your P2de including stupidly oversized tires.
    This guy gives good advice. The Castle 1415 2400KV motor (3674 can size) will be plenty sufficient for a 2WD Pede, even if it is 1/8 scale in length. I happen to have an off-brand 2680KV motor (3665 can size) that I'm going to be using. I bought it last year as a backup for my 1/10 Rally, but have decided to use something else when the time comes to upgrade that one.
    To answer your question, in general, I like to experiment with different motors, from different brands, even from overseas manufacturers, because sometimes there are some great deals out there.

    Not too sure about transmitter concerns. Do you mean potential problems with certain transmitters not working with certain esc's? I've yet to have an issue like that, but I have read where others had. Do you have a Tx/Rx system already picked out? Steering servo?
    Last edited by rcdabbler; 06-16-2017 at 01:13 AM.

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    jvogel, thanks for the advise. I'm planning on checking out my LHS to see what they have similar to the 2400kc CC. I have read that some have issues with the larger cans/wires fitting, anyway.

    Rcdabbler, I haven't even looked at any Rx/Tx options yet, do you have any suggestions? As far as servos, I picked up a few tra7075s and put some metal gears inside from savox (I can't remember the part number,) so I'm hoping these will work. I like the look of the integy gear box as well, however, yesterday I ordered a FLM tranny case. Gearing is another area I could use some help with.

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    jvogel, thanks for the advise. I'm planning on checking out my LHS to see what they have similar to the 2400kc CC. I have read that some have issues with the larger cans/wires fitting, anyway.

    Rcdabbler, I haven't even looked at any Rx/Tx options yet, do you have any suggestions? As far as servos, I picked up a few tra7075s and put some metal gears inside from savox (I can't remember the part number,) so I'm hoping these will work. I like the look of the integy gear box as well, however, yesterday I ordered a FLM tranny case. Gearing is another area I could use some help with.
    You're welcome, sir.

    My 1/10 scale Mamba X / 2400kv Castle system recommendation fits no problem.

    The Savox metal gears inside a 2075 have worked for me for years without a problem ever.

    I'l send you a PM about gearing.
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Yes the diameter of the castle 2400 is the same as the stock motor it will fit the gearbox with out any isues. It is however longer. It won't affect the operation of the truck, but it is more exposed than a normal length motor, so some sort of rear bumper is a pretty good idea.

    Gearing is gonna depend on which combo you get. Rule number 1--- if the motor is over 160f after 10 min of running, your geared too tall. Gear it as fast as it will go keeping it under that temp. Then you know the biggest pinion you can use without risking damage to the motor.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info regarding gearing and motor options!

    I have a question regarding wheels and hub adapters. I have done a few stampedes with the wide mod using Wide RPM arms on the front, and then using front wheels on all four corners. I would like to be able to utilize all the different wheels that are used on racing cars and truggies and such, and I think they use 17mm hubs....? Is anyone familiar with this? Ideally the front and rear widths would be the same, do you know which adapters I should get for front and rear to make it even? I think they make offset adapters, so would I get regular 17mm adapters for the front and then an offset one for the rear?

    Thanks for all the help.

    Parts have been arriving in the mail and I've just about ordered all the parts I need, so assembly and PICS will be coming this next week.

    Thanks again.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Yes, 1/8 scale uses 17mm hubs. To use these wheels, you'll need adapters. Since you have even arms, you'll just need to get all four adapters the same length. Ebay is your friend here.
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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I was under the impression that the arms were NOT the same width. But as I think about it now, that doesn't make sense at all, because I use the same four wheels, right? Sometimes my brain just doesn't seem to function.

    So to clarify, wide a-arms on the front and stock length for the rear make an evenly wide pede. This is without wheels considered, just the a-arm width.

    Question, what 17mm adapters do you like?

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    My sets of adapters are like me...old. So today, I would just get on ebay and see what's available now. I believe Traxxas makes them still (part # 5853X).
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Just looked on ebay. Don't get the cheap stuff!!! THey don't work well. I recommend getting the Traxxas adapters 5853X.
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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    1259.photobucket.com/profile.php?do=editpassword/amenbarnum/media/image_3.jpeg.html]

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Picture of where the project is currently.

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    okay, it looks like the pics work, I couldn't get it to work with my ipad.

    I started with the differential:



    A few parts are still in the mail, and I won't be able to complete the trans unti next week.

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That's the FLM super chasis with wide front a-arms (the pins need changed,) with STRC front bulkhead and front skid plate as well as TRX steering blocks. I had to "tweek" the skid plate a tinny bit so it would fit. I 'viced' it up and adjusted it by hand just a smidge.





    I also put together the differential, a Hot Racing sealed diff with stock Traxxas steel gears, 100k gear oil.


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    U gonna love that diff. Make sure the oring seats properly, and check it after about 6 months. Mine deteriated and I found a few replacements at an auto parts store but we're very hard to find....
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I will caution you about the FLM diff case, since this thread is about Fastlane. My diff didn't fit in my FLM gearbox. It was too tall, pins were too long. It just didn't fit. The HR case has fit perfect, but I do prefer the material FLM used to the HR. I sent it back to be looked at. They are fixing/replacing it after many many conversations.

    Also take a look at how they machine the gear down to make it fit.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That's strange about the flm diff not fitting correctly. Fortunately, I picked out the hr diff and it fits nicely into the flm tranny case:





    In order for the FLM tranny case to mount flush with the skid plate from STRC, I needed to adjust the skid plate a bit. You can see it toward the rear:




  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Looking good Synnergy. All nice and shiny. Sweet mod to get it all to fit together.
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    RC Qualifier RCMad72's Avatar
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    This thread is making me really want to rebuild my old p2de... once I've got money lol
    if you fall, I'll catch you! - Your Floor

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    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    That's strange about the flm diff not fitting correctly. Fortunately, I picked out the hr diff and it fits nicely into the flm tranny case:





    In order for the FLM tranny case to mount flush with the skid plate from STRC, I needed to adjust the skid plate a bit. You can see it toward the rear:



    The FLM gearbox is great! I have one myself. I also have the same FLM diff as grip but i did get mine to fit. He is right about the pins inside the diff. they are about 2 hairs to long. I tightened mine down as tight as i could and you can see where the pins pushed out the housing. I got lucky and it seemed to fit OK. I have not taken it out for a test run yet, but pretty sure it will be fine. I do have the traxxas gears inside, the diff was built for them.

    I did notice you had the 4 degree toe blocks. Was that your intention when you bought the tranny case? I bought the case with the 4 degree by accident and thought that was a bit much toe and bought the 1 degree. That is all I needed, as it runs straight and true. Just curious.
    Last edited by lektro; 06-25-2017 at 08:53 PM.
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    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Trust me I've had the stock, HR, and FLM diffs with the FLM case. I'm not making it up.

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Trust me I've had the stock, HR, and FLM diffs with the FLM case. I'm not making it up.
    I believe you alright, I just find it odd that two flm parts don't fit together...that just seems wrong. I'll take your word for it though and stay away from the film diff. The only diffs I have are the stock traxxas ones and the HR one...it's irrelevant to me, too bad for you and the other fellow. I expect more from a reputable company like flm.

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    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Lektro,
    The 4 degree toe-in case was ordered to help with the P2des squirlly nature off road. I rarely drive on road. My other 3 P2des are mostly the same, so I thought I'd try something different with this one. I may be done this next weekend or the following and I'll report how it goes.

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by RCMad72 View Post
    This thread is making me really want to rebuild my old p2de... once I've got money lol
    I can hear Elmo saying, "do it....dooo it......DOOOO. IT!" Yeah, I have four children.👍

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    I believe you alright, I just find it odd that two flm parts don't fit together...that just seems wrong. I'll take your word for it though and stay away from the film diff. The only diffs I have are the stock traxxas ones and the HR one...it's irrelevant to me, too bad for you and the other fellow. I expect more from a reputable company like flm.
    So far they seem that be making a feeble effort. I'm disappointed about the two pieces not fitting as well as the lack of urgency on their part with a repeat customer.

  31. #31
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Trust me I've had the stock, HR, and FLM diffs with the FLM case. I'm not making it up.
    I was just showing, where you were talking about the pins being to long was a fact. Wanted everyone to see where the pins deformed my case. No hard feelings? I am to happy a person for that! I did have the stock diff in it when i ran last and it was smooth as silk. Am hoping the FLM case is the same. If not it will be going back too! I don't quite understand why the ends of the diff teeth are flat. Hopefully it wont effect its performance.
    Last edited by lektro; 06-26-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Lektro,
    The 4 degree toe-in case was ordered to help with the P2des squirlly nature off road. I rarely drive on road. My other 3 P2des are mostly the same, so I thought I'd try something different with this one. I may be done this next weekend or the following and I'll report how it goes.
    Thank you for the info Synnergy. I have a rustler and for now am a road runner, plus I have a huge football field down the street. Has 30 extra yards around every side and end zone. I have a gyro on it and its pretty cool stuff to see it drift in the grass. Haven't tried it on pavement yet. Have yet to find any good off road spots. I do have the 4 degree blocks I can change out if it I ever run into that problem. I do know with the 1 degree she runs straight as an arrow. Thanks for letting me know. Always appreciated.! Good for future use! Your build is looking great by the way and I have had a strong interest in buying a pede.
    Last edited by lektro; 06-26-2017 at 04:50 PM.
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    RC Qualifier RCMad72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCMad72 View Post
    This thread is making me really want to rebuild my old p2de... once I've got money lol
    Well, I took the time yesterday to find all my pede parts and figure out everything I'm gonna need. If I were to build it the way I want to, being fully strc, proline, and rpm, it'll cost me almost $600. I've been thinking about getting a rustler so I need to figure out which one to go with. lol
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    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCMad72 View Post
    Well, I took the time yesterday to find all my pede parts and figure out everything I'm gonna need. If I were to build it the way I want to, being fully strc, proline, and rpm, it'll cost me almost $600. I've been thinking about getting a rustler so I need to figure out which one to go with. lol
    It can truly get very expensive. I can only imagine how much i have invested in my rustler. All worth it in the end though. I said this before. She is a beast to be reckoned with just being a VXL. New motor coming in the very near future.
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  35. #35
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    For those of you who have used the FLM tranny case:

    I installed RPM a-arms and they needed to be adjusted several mm's to fit. Is this your experience? I'm not sure I like that, and am considering using some different rear a-arms. I would like to use plastic arms for the flex.

    Update on the build: I am still awaiting the front and rear towers, which is holding the assembly for now. I think they will be in on Thursday.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Some more of the rear end installed:


  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Looking even better Synnergy!
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    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    It's so pretty! Nice start.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the encouragement guys! I checked the tracking # on my shock towers and it says they are in my town. If so, I should get some more build done tonight! I have a few surprises coming for the build.

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    I checked the tracking # on my shock towers and it says they are in my town. If so, I should get some more build done tonight!
    As one hobbyist stated, "C'mon Brown Santa!"
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