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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Guess what happened today...

    Guess what happened today...

    Yeah you guessed... another breakage lol

    I was enjoying a really good session at the bmx track when all of a sudden it came to rest and wouldn't move. Inspection showed...



    Thoughts on the right way to fix it? Guessing it's just to re-solder it?


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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JerrysMaxx's Avatar
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    you going to solder it back or just take that it wants you to upgrade her
    T/SportMax/Slayer Pro/Bandit
    Stampede/Rustler

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    At least get another motor for when that one goes out. Your ride looks well used. It's bound to happen. But yes in the mean time solder it

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Happened to me twice in a month. Sometimes I feel like I should build two identical pedes for moments like this..
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerrysMaxx View Post
    you going to solder it back or just take that it wants you to upgrade her
    Words of wisdom right there. Especially the latter part.
    Obstacle Magnet

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Happened to me twice in a month. Sometimes I feel like I should build two identical pedes for moments like this..
    I'm running mine and my sons do all repairs/upgrades are 2 fold.

    Today's breakage is a steering rod end on my sons truck and a really bent shock shaft on mine.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerrysMaxx View Post
    just take that it wants you to upgrade her
    Tempting... but its fast enough for now. Think any faster and I'd just break more stuff lol


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  8. #8
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
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    onion think stuff keeps breaking at this point due to the fact that you are thoroughly enjoying your trucks =)
    3RusterXL5
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    A Titan 12T is "fast enough" for you onionsa!?!

    Also, I don't know how anything could break at Titan 12T speeds. Cement curb ricochet challenge? Cliff diving?
    Obstacle Magnet

  10. #10
    RC Racer SilentRunner007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    A Titan 12T is "fast enough" for you onionsa!?!

    Also, I don't know how anything could break at Titan 12T speeds. Cement curb ricochet challenge? Cliff diving?
    Taking the phrase "bashing" literally? lol
    3RusterXL5
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  11. #11
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    Fast enough, for now.

    Obviously being new to the hobby I'm not sure if what we're doing is classed as soft/medium/hard bashing. The trucks are primarily run on hard packed ground at the BMX track or out on the streets. There aren't many "soft" areas round here that we can easily access, that have obsticles. Sure we have fields... but who wants to run on a flat piece of grass?

    We're enjoying doing what we deem to be big jumps. Watching some of them back in slow motion and seeing the amount of flex and bend in the truck is astonishing. I'll see if I can load one up to show what I mean.

    This week I've bought the replacement shock bladders and hardened shock shafts so I'll rebuild all the shocks again. I'm putting 45wt shock oil in, and plan on running the 2 hole pistons - does that sound ok? Also bought a load of rod ends as my son snapped one on the servo end of his steering.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Many years ago, my friends and I loved to jump our P2des and really bash them hard. We're talkin' over my head jumps. Our huge dirt area was quite soft and many of the big jumps had return ramps.

    Had to upgrade the following due to breakages or major performance challenges:

    Castle Sidewinder ESC/4600kv (the Titan just wasn't powerful enough)
    2S LiPo (the NiMH just weren't performing well)
    Savox metal gears SG-SC0251MG (to replace the many broken plastic gears inside the Traxxas 2075 servo)
    Kimbrough large extra strong servo saver #124 (because the stock always broke too easily)
    STRC red aluminum shock caps ST2267R (because the stock plastic kept popping off)
    Traxxas titanium shock shafts 2765T & 2656T (because the stock got bent)
    STRC suspension pins with nylon lock nuts ST3640BK (because the stock pins liked to back out)
    STRC aluminum castor blocks ST3632R (because the plastic let the kingpins get bent)
    STRC 12mm aluminum lock-pin hex hubs ST3654-12GM (the plastic allowed stripping of the hubs)
    T-Bone Racing bumper/wheelie bar F317-TBR NM rear / B205 T-Bar set - 62086 (stock was too easily destroyed)
    RPM hybrid gear case with 3 toe-in 73612 (toe-in for tire grip and the motor kept coming loose on the stock plastic)
    Traxxas Drive Shafts Rear Steel Spline 1951R (because the plastic kept breaking)
    2.8" Pro-Line Trencher tires/wheels (because the stock didn't grip well)

    But other than that, I did do a bunch of upgrades.
    Obstacle Magnet

  13. #13
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    Well that sounds ridiculous. It's a new truck almost. Replace what you break with rpm stuff, and learn to adjust flight so you land on your wheels most of the time. Easy said......
    2wd Slash VXL, 2wd Slash 9t , E Maxx 2200kv ,Trx4

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazee horse View Post
    Well that sounds ridiculous.
    So, then, you know me!
    Obstacle Magnet

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I've had similar experience, especially with our stampedes. I LOVE stampedes, however, in part because they are so challenging. At our local track here in Oregon I have broken many, many parts. It seemed like every time I drove it something would break. Between my two oldest kid's P2des and mine, I was always repairing/replacing/upgrading something. I still bash mine at the track, and it is still my favorite truck to run. I have had better luck (as far as not breaking things,) with my bandit that has some rustler parts on it. The bandit seems to take the jumps better and lands better IMO. I think the weight has something to do with it as well because the Bandit is pretty light. As far as Stampede upgrades go, I think the aluminum castor blocks are a necessity. Actually there are a bunch of other necessities but the castor blocks are high on the list. Keep on Bashin on.

  16. #16
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    I'm glad I'm not the only one that suffers with reliability issues on these trucks.

    I'm pretty happy with mine now after the upgrades I've made and it seems to be hanging together well now apart from a leaky shock. I'm heading to the US in a month or so, so may try and pick up some parts while I'm there as they're a lot cheaper than the UK.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I wouldn't say "reliability issues" necessarily. Any truck run hard will eventually break. In my experience the stampede is incredibly durable **for the price**. Ive owned dozens of trucks and buggies over the years and you can spend alot more money to get vehicles that will break much more easily and not talk half the abuse. There are very few options as tough as a stampede. Or rustler or bandit... they are all pretty much the same IMO. A bandit would likely be a bit more durable just because theres less leverage on the wheels with shorter arms and smaller wheels. Once you get a stampede upgraded with the necessary stuff youll rarely ever break anything else. It does take some time to get to that point though.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    I wouldn't say "reliability issues" necessarily. Any truck run hard will eventually break. In my experience the stampede is incredibly durable **for the price**. Ive owned dozens of trucks and buggies over the years and you can spend alot more money to get vehicles that will break much more easily and not talk half the abuse. There are very few options as tough as a stampede. Or rustler or bandit... they are all pretty much the same IMO. A bandit would likely be a bit more durable just because theres less leverage on the wheels with shorter arms and smaller wheels. Once you get a stampede upgraded with the necessary stuff youll rarely ever break anything else. It does take some time to get to that point though.
    Well said sir.
    Obstacle Magnet

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    I wouldn't say "reliability issues" necessarily. Any truck run hard will eventually break. In my experience the stampede is incredibly durable **for the price**. Ive owned dozens of trucks and buggies over the years and you can spend alot more money to get vehicles that will break much more easily and not talk half the abuse. There are very few options as tough as a stampede. Or rustler or bandit... they are all pretty much the same IMO. A bandit would likely be a bit more durable just because theres less leverage on the wheels with shorter arms and smaller wheels. Once you get a stampede upgraded with the necessary stuff youll rarely ever break anything else. It does take some time to get to that point though.
    Reliability was probably the wrong word. My truck was mainly suffering from screws working loose very quickly regardless of tightening before a run, and since swapping out to nuts/bolts it had been holding up really well... until today when I lost a screw (that was thread-locked) out of the steering knuckle. I say 'I', meaning my Son, who 5mins before just had his truck broken by his older brother who ripped the A-arm off and pulled the screw through the chassis part. I'm hoping the clean break and superglue will hold it together. I've managed to hack mine back together by moving a castor block to A-arm mounting screw through to the steering knuckle/Castor block, and then grinding the threads off a screw to remount the caster block to the A-arm. I'm quite pleased that both trucks are running again considering the state of them both when they went into the garage!!

  20. #20
    RC Competitor
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    The only thing that brakes on mine now, is bodies( being the most expensive. Other than that, after the upgrades, 4 to 5 dollar part brakes here and there but will still keep getting it unless it's a spur gear. Learnt the hard way to keep spur gear plastic.

  21. #21
    RC Racer
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    Funny you say that, both our bodies are starting to crack in various places. Nothing too serious yet that duct tape wont keep together thankfully.

  22. #22
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    Funny you say that, both our bodies are starting to crack in various places. Nothing too serious yet that duct tape wont keep together thankfully.


    Use this stuff on your body and it will not ever crack in the same area again. I use it everywhere on my rustler. Even to adhere something. It is originally used for expansion joints on buildings and come's in several colors. I have it around my body mount holes on the inside. It will never break there again 100% positive. sold online or roofing supply stores. Its around $6 a tube but will last as long as your car will. Serious stuff. When it dries it is indestructible rubber.
    Choose Life !!!

  23. #23
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    Sounds good. I went down the drywall tape and shoe-goo route, but I'm finding that its coming away from the body as it seems to be pulling the paint off the shell!

  24. #24
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Well I wish people would trust me on this. I would not post it if it did not work. Like i said I use it on everything. I even used it on some bose speakers were the seams were separating. They are like brand new now. This stuff is great. I will send you a tube just to prove a point.



    I could have done a smother job but didn't really matter being on the inside. You can smooth it out after applying or as it dries. I actually did a thread on it somewhere. I think I will keep posting it till someone tries it out and says wow it really does work.

    I just renewed it on rustler/bandit if you want to read.
    Last edited by lektro; 07-03-2017 at 09:10 AM.
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  25. #25
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    Just been googling and it doesn't look to be available in the UK. I'll have to take a closer look at the stuff to see what the UK equivilant is. Almost comes across as silicone caulk.

  26. #26
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    No its not anywhere near silicone. That stuff ain't worth a think in my brain. If our roofer used silicone in expansion joints he would be replacing it every 2 years compared to 30 to 40 with this stuff. look up expansion joint adhesive/sealant, something similar might pop up! Or maybe roofing adhesive/sealant.
    Last edited by lektro; 07-03-2017 at 10:24 AM.
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  27. #27
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    Yes I agree. I did some reading and notice that its actually a solvent free urethane adhesive. Some more rigorous googling of this has turned up a couple of similar products that are easy enough to get hold of. One of which I think I may already have!

  28. #28
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    No its not anywhere near silicone. That stuff ain't worth a think in my brain. If our roofer used silicone in expansion joints he would be replacing it every 2 years compared to 30 to 40 with this stuff. look up expansion joint adhesive/sealant, something similar might pop up! Or maybe roofing adhesive/sealant.
    Choose Life !!!

  29. #29
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    This is what I had - didn't realise it was open though and has gone off. May get some more to try.




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  30. #30
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    The polyurethane is pretty close to the same thing. I see the date there and see were it might have hardened up on ya. that is some good stuff also. Probably just as good. The stuff i have will start to harden on you if you don't use it for awhile. All you need to do is stick a nail in the hardened part and pry it out.

    1995 year stuff is probably hard all the way through or spoiled. If that is a caulk tube you can try cutting it near the end to see if there is any good stuff left. If so, at least you can get one good use out of it.
    I was just thinking and i bet if i covered the inside of a set of tires, it would surely stop them from ballooning. Hmmmm Might have to give that one a try. It surely wont break loose from the tire. Yet another use! It does come in a caulking tube also.
    Last edited by lektro; 07-03-2017 at 04:26 PM.
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  31. #31
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    1995 is the copyright date, but the tube is probably a good 7 years old still lol

    I normally put a cap over all my caulk tubes to stop them going solid too far in but think this would be done anyway. Time for some fresh stuff for a new purpose.


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  32. #32
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    1995 is the copyright date, but the tube is probably a good 7 years old still lol

    I normally put a cap over all my caulk tubes to stop them going solid too far in but think this would be done anyway. Time for some fresh stuff for a new purpose.


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    Yeah once you open a tube of good caulk it is almost impossible to keep it from getting hard. At least in the nozzle! I try to use a wirenut for that, but it has to be a perfect fit to prevent it!
    Last edited by lektro; 07-03-2017 at 04:34 PM.
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  33. #33
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    I normally pull the nozzle off and clean it out, then put some tissue over the end and put the nozzle back on to hold it. Its worked well on a few tubes.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Lectro... is that stuff sandable once it cures, or is it like shoogoo, and just ball up? If I can use it like putty, fill gaps and sand it to a half decent finish I'll use it often. How much is a tube? I really dig the no odor designation
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  35. #35
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    I bought some of this the other day and put my first repair on last night: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adh...t+300ml/p85566

    Will see how it holds up with a bit of bashing over the weekend. I felt it this morning and it felt very rubbery. Application was nice and easy, i used a wooden ice lolly (popsicle) stick to spread it about.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onionsa View Post
    I bought some of this the other day and put my first repair on last night: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adh...t+300ml/p85566

    Will see how it holds up with a bit of bashing over the weekend. I felt it this morning and it felt very rubbery. Application was nice and easy, i used a wooden ice lolly (popsicle) stick to spread it about.

    Hey Onionsa,
    just curious as to how this product worked? I need to repair some body shells and have been looking for the M-1 as Lectro suggested. A local lumber shop has some poly-urethane adhesive and I was thinking of giving it a try.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Lectro... is that stuff sandable once it cures, or is it like shoogoo, and just ball up? If I can use it like putty, fill gaps and sand it to a half decent finish I'll use it often. How much is a tube? I really dig the no odor designation
    Hey lectro, can this stuff be sanded?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  38. #38
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    It seems to be doing the job. I've not punished the shell properly since applying it but it doesn't feel like it's going to let go of the shell any time soon. It's nice and elastic so has plenty of flexibility. It is certainly something I'd recommend over shoe goo at the moment as that has started to come away from the body in places.


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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Can the material be sanded with sandpaper, or is it like shoogoo, which cannot be sanded?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  40. #40
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    I will check for you, but I think due to the nature of the material it would just clog up sand paper.


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