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  1. #1
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    Talking New Rustler VXL Owner - Any tips?

    So I just got my Rustler VXL W/ TSM and it's an absolute hoot to drive. I'm having a lot of fun with it. I was wondering apart from any repairs, is there anything else I need to do to keep it running well? Is there anything I need to oil or replace after a while, even though it's not broken? Things such as bearings? Also, what kind of maintenance should I do?

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Myrustlervxl's Avatar
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    Congratulations and welcome to the fun and exciting addiction. I will start off by saying get yourself a nice set of tools the ones that came with the russler work but they are not the best and they make your job a lot easier. As far as cleaning bearings it kind of depends on how you use your car if you use it in mud and sand I would clean them out about every 2 months but that's just my opinion.

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  3. #3
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    Are there also any must-have upgrades?
    So far I have a wheelie bar, one 9,6v nimh, one 2s lipo, and one 3s lipo

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Myrustlervxl's Avatar
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    RPM bumpers are nice

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  5. #5
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    Get a hinge pin set from STRC. It's hardened bolts and nylock nuts. Replaces the soft pins and c clips. Aluminum shock caps are a must unless you're gonna upgrade your shocks. The plastic caps just pop off. Caster blocks are another weak point. Aluminum is the way to go with them. While the traxxas wheelie bar is functional, you will rip it to pieces. Look into Tbone racing bumpers/wheelie bars. They take a while to ship but it's worth the wait. Axles won't hold out long if you run 3S and or larger tires. That being said the stock tires wont last long.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Alum c blocks and shock caps are must haves

    Running 3s? Get a temp gun. Duratrax sells them for about 20 bucks, and check harbor freight I got mine for 799 on sale in their flyer.if running 3s, check motor temps often. If it gets over 160f, shut it down and let it cool. At 180 you can possibly be damaging the motor.

    IF you bend shock shafts, replace with traxxas tini shafts.

    As far as bearings go... the internal transmission bearings will stay pretty much pristine unless you submerge the gearbox. Keep it dry and you may never have to touch them. The diff output bearings and the axle bearings take a dirt beating. If you get them wet, pull them out immediately, clean with wd40, blow the wd 40 out, then oil. If you leave them wet, they can seize up in short order. Avid has nice bearing options for the slash, you can custom build your bearing set with different types of bearings.

    If ya break a plastic part, replace with rpm or upgrade to proline suspension parts.

    Other than that, inspect the truck after every time you run it

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Alum c blocks and shock caps are must haves

    Running 3s? Get a temp gun. Duratrax sells them for about 20 bucks, and check harbor freight I got mine for 799 on sale in their flyer.if running 3s, check motor temps often. If it gets over 160f, shut it down and let it cool. At 180 you can possibly be damaging the motor.

    IF you bend shock shafts, replace with traxxas tini shafts.

    As far as bearings go... the internal transmission bearings will stay pretty much pristine unless you submerge the gearbox. Keep it dry and you may never have to touch them. The diff output bearings and the axle bearings take a dirt beating. If you get them wet, pull them out immediately, clean with wd40, blow the wd 40 out, then oil. If you leave them wet, they can seize up in short order. Avid has nice bearing options for the slash, you can custom build your bearing set with different types of bearings.

    If ya break a plastic part, replace with rpm or upgrade to proline suspension parts.

    Other than that, inspect the truck after every time you run it
    How do I take out the bearings and what type of oil do I use?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Just take the wheels off, then the hexes, remove the screws so your bearing carriers can swing down so you can pull the axles. It's easy once you get into it. The Rustler is super easy to work on.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Myrustlervxl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    It's easy once you get into it. The Rustler is super easy to work on.
    X2 and it's part of the fun.


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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Myrustlervxl's Avatar
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    Don't be afraid to start taking things apart, use common sence and keep track of all your nut, bolts and washers. Don't forget YouTube has some good how to videos.

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  11. #11
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    What should I do if a new Rustler comes out and the old parts won't be for sale anymore?

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Buy the new rustler lol.


    I don't think traxxas will discontinue the rustler. It is still a very good seller, and even if they did, with the million or 10 rustlers now in circulation, the aftermarket would keep supporting them for years after it was discontinued. After all, it's been making traxxas money for almost 25 years, and still is one of the best bashers on the market. Also many parts interchange with the stampede, slash, and bandit. I would not worry about that. If a new rusty would come out, I would expect it to be a 4x4 based off of the slash 4x4 drive train. Trx did not kill the stampede 2wd when they introduced the pede 4x4...
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  13. #13
    RC Champion flamnpede1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Get a hinge pin set from STRC. It's hardened bolts and nylock nuts. Replaces the soft pins and c clips. Aluminum shock caps are a must unless you're gonna upgrade your shocks. The plastic caps just pop off. Caster blocks are another weak point. Aluminum is the way to go with them. While the traxxas wheelie bar is functional, you will rip it to pieces. Look into Tbone racing bumpers/wheelie bars. They take a while to ship but it's worth the wait. Axles won't hold out long if you run 3S and or larger tires. That being said the stock tires wont last long.
    The traxxas wheelie bar is best used with the rpm rear guard setup. The stock traxxas mounting just gets ripped from the bottom of the skid plate. You can probably see it on my Stampede. I beat the heck out of of the wheelie bar and the most that happened after changing the mounts is it would pop out of the height setting.

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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Looking at your name you must be Dutch. Luckily there are enough suppliers for Traxxas parts in the Netherlands, so I agree with rag6 not to worry too much or buy that New Rustler when it comes out.
    Nobody is born with experience

  15. #15
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    I think the Rustler is like the Subaru. Will always be the same car. Just improvements to make it better...
    Choose Life !!!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    That def has ben the status quo for 20 years 8)
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  17. #17
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    That def has ben the status quo for 20 years 8)
    I know it has been for about 12 years. The Subaru about 20.
    Choose Life !!!

  18. #18
    RC Champion flamnpede1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    I know it has been for about 12 years. The Subaru about 20.
    These models came out around 1994. Chassis, a arms, shocks, transmission etc have remained virtually the same with minor tweaks. Shocks now have x seals, transmission now has metal gears, slipper has been improved for brushless power and etc. Heck, I have had my tmaxx for more than 12 years.

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  19. #19
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    Wow, thank you guys for the replies, very friendly community here. Appreciate it a lot

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