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  1. #1
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    Question Grinding noise during acceleration on mini e-revo

    Hello all. New to the forums. I recently picked up a MERV,on July 7th of this year. It ran flawlessly,until today. I'm getting a grinding noise when accelerating. It only happens in forward,no noise in reverse. If i hold it in my hand and hit the throttle,it doesn't do it. It's only when there's a load on the drivetrain. Forgive me if this has been asked 100 times before. I spoke to Traxxas,and they told me to tighten the slipper clutch,and back it off a 1/4 turn. After i did that,it was grinding in forward and reverse. Any ideas what i could be? The spur and pinion gears look brand new,so i don't think that's the problem.

  2. #2
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    After reading some more threads,I'm pretty sure it's the rear diff. Pretty lame considering it's only 17 days old,and only has maybe 12 runs on it. I tried to find a way to delete the thread,but there doesn't seem to be an option to do that.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Another thread about stripped diffs makes it more easy for others to find a solution for their grinding noises

    Only moderators can delete threads.

    Welcome to the forum!
    Nobody is born with experience

  4. #4
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    Check the screws that goes rear into the rear bulkhead. That two screws holding rear spoiler mount and the toe links.
    Last time i unmounted it and mount it back the screws got too long inside so it hit the gears.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the replies,and the welcome. I will check the screws going into the rear bulkhead,although i've never removed anything from that area. After talking to Traxxas again,they are sending me a new slipper clutch. I really don't think that's the problem,but i guess they want to rule that out,first. It's more of a clicking noise,rather than the grinding noise,i originally described it as. It still seems to be getting full power,to the wheels as well.

  6. #6
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    If it were the rear diff, that's definitely NOT a "grinding" type noise. When you have a stripped rear diff, you will gear 3-10 loud clicks when you first start accelerating. If that's not what you are hearing, it's not the rear diff. If you are hearing grinding, i would also suspect the slipper or pinion/spur interface....
    Dacaur

  7. #7
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    Ok,just spoke to Traxxas,for the third time. They are being very helpful with thier advice. They seem to think my clutch was too tight,and caused the rear diff issue. They told me there's no need to shim the diffs on the newer model MERV. I just wanted to see if you more experienced rc guys(or gals) agree with that? My only experience with RC,up to this point,has been nitro airplanes for 10 years or so. Sorry,i hate to sound like the newbie with a bunch of newbie questions. I just want to get this little beast back up and running!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for your reply,Dacaur. That's exactly what it's doing. Loud clicking,under full,forward acceleration. Guess it's time to look into the rear diff. Hate to rip open a 17 day old RC,but i guess that's just part of the hobby. Thanks again!

  9. #9
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    On stock nimh power, there should be no need for shimming, but if tolerances stack just right, it's possible. Once you go lipo, even 2 cell can be a problem if the slipper is too tight....
    Dacaur

  10. #10
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    I had my rear diff open up to check and clean because of that screw issue.
    The truck is easy to work on.
    I recomend you to fully tighten the clutch adjust nut and screw it 1 round out. That is how my stock clutch was adjusted.
    I tighten it 1/4 in again just to get more response and wheelie.
    Have runned mine many times last two weeks and the diff hold up very good. Just land without trottle and never do backflip. Never hold trottle to bottom while you do wheelie because you will also "land" with trottle in that way also.

    Think you will not need more than 30 minutes to open your diff, watch some YouTube videoes
    My diff is not shimed. Dosnt look like it need eighter. I have never stripped a diff on my earlier Traxxas trucks. Just treat it well and you will be fine. It is also best to give less trottle in start and more over a couple second before going full.
    In that way your driveline will last for a long time.
    Last edited by Ray87; 07-25-2017 at 03:11 PM.

  11. #11
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    I ordered the Traxxas 2c lipo and charger along with the car,so that's all i've been using. The slipper must've been too tight when i got it. Of course,i dove right in,without even thinking about adjusting the slipper. I took the "RTR" part too literally,i suppose. I flew RC planes for years,but i am new to the RC car scene,as i'm sure you can tell. I have a 2wd xl5 Slash that i bought back in February,but that thing is pretty tame compared to the MERV.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the advice,Ray. I just got home from work,so i'll probably take the diff apart shorty,and see how it looks. I do have a habit of going wide open,from the start. Guess i need to learn to "finess" it a bit,with this one.

  13. #13
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    No problem. Every slipper is different but when it make a screaming sound for aroud the first 1-2 meter with mutch trottle it should be ok.
    Loose slipper will take the stress on your driveline. But to loose will melt the slipper clutch. Just try it and listen to the slipper screaming. If it feels to loose tighten it just littlebit in.

    Im new to 1/16 cars but not to Rc cars. A few years back i used to run a few 1/10 brushless trucks.
    You should upgrade your stampede to a brushless system

  14. #14
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    I plan on eventually upgrading my 1/10 Slash to brushless & Lipo. The appeal of the merv,I'm partial to open wheel cars after wrenching on a sprint car pit crew for 10 years,made me put my Slash on the back burner,for now. But I'll slowly upgrade it after i get the merv to where i want it.

  15. #15
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    I got the differential apart,and that was definitely the problem. The gears are fried. I just don't know whether to shim,when i get the new ring and pinion gears. Traxxas tells me there's no need to,with the newer Mervs. Do you guys think i should shim it anyway?

  16. #16
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    Yes, there is no downside.
    Dacaur

  17. #17
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    Ok,thanks.

  18. #18
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    Does anyone know of any good shim equivalent for this ? ASC21141 has been discontinued and out of stock for a while now.

    Thanks !
    Last edited by superticky; 11-25-2018 at 11:24 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by superticky View Post
    Does anyone know of any good shim equivalent for this ? ASC21141 has been discontinued and out of stock for a while now.

    Thanks !
    They are just 8mm shims I use this 3RAC-SW08 https://www.ebay.com/itm/3RACING-Sta...ikSA:rk:9:pf:0 a shim kit works on my RC18's, Latrax Teton/SST and MERV.

  20. #20
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    Thank you !!!

  21. #21
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    how many should I put in the rear diff ? I saw people putting 1, 2 or even 4

    My e-revo is the first vxl brushless version from many years ago, maybe I don't even have the revised bulkhead ?

    Thank you again !

  22. #22
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    Amount of shims will all depend on how loose things are. It may take just 1 or up to how ever many to make it tight. Donít make it too tight though as it wonít work well.

  23. #23
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    Thank you ! I was also thinking on adding a center diff to ease the stress a little bit on the rear diff. I only use 2S but my daughter is not gentle with the trigger. We only do dirt , not pavement.

  24. #24
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    Loosen the slipper clutch a bit and it will help with the diff issues and hard WOT.

  25. #25
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    So i am experiencing the same thing, a loud clicking sound (not grinding) on acceloration. truck is only a few days old and i am running traxxas 1200mah battery. (no lipos, etc - yet)

    Ran maybe 3 batteries and now have the noise. So if this is the rear diff, is that covered under warranty? If so, do I just call CS?

    thanks!

  26. #26
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    I'd recommend adjusting the slipper clutch just to see if it's the problem. Does the clicking stop after you accelerate and get going, or just under hard accel?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-RevoVXL View Post
    I'd recommend adjusting the slipper clutch just to see if it's the problem. Does the clicking stop after you accelerate and get going, or just under hard accel?
    Just under acceleration. After it gets going I dont hear it.

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