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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jun 2016
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    42

    My revo build so far.

    Here's my Revo build so far. I got the Lrp 3.2 a few months ago. Put the rotor start backing plate on it. And I used the traxxas big block mount. I decided to use the Hpi 3 shoe fly wheel and composite clutch shoes. Topped that off with the Hpi 19 tooth clutch bell. For the trans I locked it in second gear.and removed all of the first gears and reverse gears. Added the center diff with 500k diff fluid, with a harden steel 37 tooth spear gear and rear brake upgrade. To help stop this beast. Had to move the trans forwards a little to get it to line up right and took a piece of sand papper to the rear upper left control arm. To get it to clear the backing plate on the 3.2. Didn't have to take much off at all. And had to remove a lot of the drive shaft tunnel on the chassis to get the center drive shafts to clear. After all the drilling and cutting on the petty blue chassis it wasn't looking so good. A fresh coat of gloss black and a few coats of clear and it looks good again.lol .Air filter and hose I got off ebay. For exhaust I'm using the ofna big block pipe and muffler. Had to put a real hose clamp on the pipe to keep it from blowing off at 3/4 throttle you can see it in the picture. And had to use ceramic bearings on the clutch bell.the cheap ones wear wearing out after 3 tanks . Haven't decided what to do about tires yet the poor stock ones exploded on the first real full speed pass I did. The top speed on this truck is insane.and even with the center diff and the high gears it pulls the front tire up with ease. If you look at the top of the head on the motor you can clearly see the road rash from getting a little to throttle happy with it. Yay my new motor didn't stay looking new for long. http://i.imgur.com/6GL7bJX.jpg . http://i.imgur.com/WGVKoJD.jpg . http://i.imgur.com/rUjG3sz.jpg

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
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    42
    So any ideas on tires? I've been looking at a set of the traxxas XO-1 supercar tires but them being slicks not sure they would work on hard packed clay. Has any one ran the lrp truggy on road tires yet.they look like they wouldn't balloon up. And they have a tred pattern to them.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Canada
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    146
    Attn: Nameless, i'm gonna show you how to post pics here on Traxxas so we don't have to jump around. first re-size your pics before uploading to imgur to about 700 pixels wide. I see you have 3 pics, make sure only 1 pic per line: see my post 24 for instructions.
    🅼🅾🅳🅴🆁🅰🆃🅾🆁🆂 🅳🅾🅽'🆃 🅲🅰🆁🅴

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    23
    I use src terrain crushers. They don't balloon at all

    Sent from my SM-G930R6 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
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    42
    Just looked up the src crushes. Those look nice. Holding up good I take it

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    23
    So far. I haven't ran them very long, but have some friends that have had them for months. We all have erbe's or brushless emaxx and have nothing but good to say about them so far. The trucks definitely handle differently with these tires.

    Sent from my SM-G930R6 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    1,573
    I ran them for a while as well, but spun a hex.

    As long as you don't overrev in the air, the traxxas tires hold up fine. It's what I have on my LRP28 revo and OS21Tm revo. I had the SRC TC tires on my ERBE. I think I spun a hex because my HPI wheel nut got loose on me. They also do not hook up well on grass/dirt. I had no idea how much wheel slip I had until I put a set of those tires you blew out on my ERBE. With the TC tires, I had to work to pull a wheelie in grass. Without them, I end up on my roof all the time. lol

    They do hook up really well on pavement though, not sure how they will do on clay.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Fueler941's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Venice, FL
    Posts
    403
    I run SRC Terrain Crushers, Proline Badlands, and Stock tires. I had Proline Trencher 40 series for a little bit, but ended up selling them to a friend. I'm going to order the Louise RC MTcross tires this weekend as those look promising for some offroad. The Proline Badlands are easily one of the best tires for a Revo though.
    E-Revo - Tekin T8 Gen2 1700kv / RX8 Gen3

  9. #9
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    2
    Have you room to get more fuel onboard. I saw a conversion that had a reserve tank that was pressurised by a small one-way ball valve off screwed into the side of the exhaust.

    Interesting thing is how you compensate run time for weight and overall space.

    My Traxxas has a Custom Race Tune RB 5.6 Engine and it eats fuel like mad but it also pumps out incredible speeds averaging 60mph/95kph. It requires custom 250ml + 100ml combo tanks allowing 15 minutes full race time before requiring refuel. And it also has a modified electric fuel pump but that's because the centre of gravity affects fuel load getting through the valve consistently. A fuel pump should only be installed for high performance consistent gravity affected racing.

    The pressurised tank helps to reduce stall when cornering or off-centring your fuel load. My truck is a Clay and Tar Pan Racer and designed purely for that purpose. It can handle jumps but the objective is clean cornering and consistent speed.

    I suggest you try to offset you load by reducing the centre of gravity on the build. Than means changing the configuration of battery holders and maybe even cutting into the chassis to accommodate lower housing. Doing this will reduce Tire Wear and helps to stabilise your truck if you intend to force drift through corners on loose and hard surface racing. Balance is the most important build spec you want to have at the completion of your project. Without it you lose speed, traction, stability, control and other factors that tell you how successful the project turned out.

    The Revo being such a wide axle, should be taken into account so you get better handling from the build. There are certain things you can't move like the engine but you must offset any weight that bears off centre. You stick your truck on scales and sit a block of 1"x 2" wood to find the centre and pivot side to side/front to rear, can soon work out where the centre of balance lies. Important; do this on empty. medium and full tank with batteries installed. The balance will shift but it needs to always be just behind centre and not more than 3/4 to the rear. It is preferable to have a full tank at 3/4 than at centre because you reduce drag as the vehicle become lighter but when braking it should not throw weight into the front. hence the rear weight stabilises the droop when braking and turning in. A centred fuel tank closer to centre in full fuel load lifts weight off the rear which causes instability and loss to drive traction.

    Another thing with droop is not to over pressurise your oil in the shocks. I use 40 on my front shocks but the rear are a little more at 60. I certainly wouldn't use 90 because the shock needs to travel and absorb weight shift through the axles. Heavy springs can compensate by stiffening up the axle travel but they can also create destabilisation because the axles are lifting the wheel off the surface due to body roll or lack thereof or bouncing travel due to surface condition, instead of naturally absorbing the terrain. This causes tire wear in both situations and reduces performance because the truck will become erratic in cornering usually creating under steer due to loss of tracking through a corner. Noting, tracking engages camber setup and speed into and at apex before applying power out of corner. When testing this process, find a flat surface where you can setup video recording at ground level to observe your tracking so you can see at wheel base what the tires are doing and how well the body of the truck compensates roll in and out and how droop affects forward weight and rear lift.

    In my Revo. I add ballast to the front end when the track is wet or slippery. This brings the balance closer to middle and front allowing traction to be maintained whilst braking.

    Spend big on drive components. They get the most friction and jarring damage. If yo can get Hardened Splines, they last almost indefinitely but are rather expensive because they have to be machined probably by a robot in some factory but they are checked to tolerance. You pay for quality. My RB kit cost me $800. I've done 3 rebuilds on that engine and its still very competitive.


    You can have a good truck project but you have to learn how to break the rules of standard build tech to get the right finished product and that requires a lot of tireless testing.
    Last edited by Tektixon; 09-08-2017 at 03:14 PM.

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