Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 120
  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558

    GreatScott's TRX4

    I have finally gotten some wheel-time on this rig. Having been in the world of crawlers and scalers for the last 10 years or so I can say that I am very impressed, especially for an RTR package.

    Price and features.
    At around $450, I don't think it would have been a bad deal to just get it as an RTR without the 2-speed and lockable differentials, especially given that is has a giant beefy chassis, the cool custom body, and portals. Throwing in the diffs and transmission is just a cool bonus.

    It did not take me long to get used to the two-speed transmission. I have played around with two-speeds in other rigs, but it just was not a feature that I found useful. The high/low gearing in the TRX4 is spaced far enough apart to really make both gears useful. It was nice being hung up on something and being able to go to the high gear to get some wheels speed to get over it.

    The locking diffs are cool, but I am wondering how useful they will be with the way I drive. Once I get in rough rock I did not unlock them. The only time they were unlocked is when I was tootling around the parking lot. So, the jury is still out on these.

    Performance...
    Given that this is an out-of-the-box RTR, the performance is pretty good. But, when you start getting technical with it (comp driving), you can start to see where it needs improvements. That cool body is one of the key things that really holds this truck back, it is top-heavy, and back-heavy, which makes steep ascents difficult, side hilling is tricky, and the body gets hung up on a lot of stuff. The other thing that holds this truck back is the steering servo. Traxxas upped it game by going with metal gears, but it is still a 120oz servo, which just isn't enough for most scale rigs, especially one with the girth of the TRX4.

    Just for kicks and giggles I took the body off and ran it, 100% a different truck. The performance is going to change with any scale rig when you take the body off, it is a significant amount of weight that is mounted high that you are loosing. I have never seen such a drastic change in performance with the body off as I did on this rig. That tells me I need to put the body on a diet, or get another body altogether; also, I need to get more weight down low.

    I was very impressed by the stock tires. Normally stock tires are so-so, and are one of the first things you replace, but I found these to have very good grip on most surfaces. The only problem I really can see with them is not being able to add weight to them easily.

    Torque Twist is Gone... Yeah, not really.
    Back when the Losi Comp Crawler came out everyone said that torque twist (TT) would be eliminated because it make all of its torque at the diffs, well, it still had its fair share. The same was said about the TRX4, it makes its torque at the portals, so it will not have TT. While running the TRX4 I saw plenty of TT. I will say that it is very reduced compared to a lot of other rigs, and it is very controllable.

    Problems...
    The only real problem I have seen so far has been from the ESC, mode 5. The drag brake does not always engage. If I snap off of the trigger while going forward the drag brake engages, if I ease off of the throttle it doesn't. I have played around with this and I think the problem is in the TQi's throttle dead zone. Either the dead-zone isn't wide enough, or the trigger itself is not going far enough forward when the throttle is slowly eased off to tell the ESC that it is in the neutral position. This might just be cause it is new and the parts are not warn in. But, they likely will not get warn in at all, in short order I am planning on switching to my DX5R.

    I monitored the heat while I was running, at 93*/f, the motor was around 130*, which is not bad for the crawling I was doing. I was surprised to see the XL5 was also at 130*, that warning sticker was not lying. I am only planning on running 2S, and I have a couple of heat sinks that I'll put on the motor to help it shed heat. I am not a big fan of ESC fans, especially installing them on ESCs that do not come with them to begin with, but I might just make an exception in this case.

    LET THE MODS BEGIN!!!

    I am in the process of putting lights into the body, which is just what it needs, more weight. I have a thread going just for this.
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...TrickRC-Bezels

    I certainly thing a full set of brass portal covers are in my future. I am also looking at ungluing the front tires and putting some weight in them, or just going with a set of beadlocks and new tires.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    945
    Good to see you have your trx-4 and getting to run it. Can't speak about it yet, I've got one ordered at my favorite lhs so hopefully next week. From what you speak and what I've gathered it's definitely not prefect but a really good start, guess that's why there is upgrades.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    I think I have the Mode 5 issue figured out...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oJe7PFyJE0

    With that, I attempted to switch to my DX5R last night and ran into a little snag, the T-Lock module I have does not work the same as the TRX4's TQi. It puts both diffs being locked in the center position, and switching it one way unlocks the front and keeps the back locked; switching it the other way unlocks the back and keeps the front locked. I am trying to figure out if this isn't actually going to help me, and I might run it this way for a little bit to see how I like it.

    Also, that really cool RX box is make just for the TQi's RX, my six channel RX for the DX5R is just a little too wide. It will fit, but it bows out the sides of the box a little. Luckily, there is a little give in the lid, and it will conform to the new shape. Just to be on the safe side though, I am going to goop the o-ring with an ample amount of silicone grease, just to make sure it is water tight.
    Last edited by Greatscott; 08-06-2017 at 10:56 AM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Redding, CA
    Posts
    190
    Cool, it's good to hear your thoughts and impressions on the TRX-4.

    Sounds like overall it's not too bad

    I plan on getting some weight up front one way or another (portal covers, wheels, etc.) I like the body so I don't want to ditch it, even if it will improve performance. I feel with some weight distribution shifts, it could work pretty well.

    It would work really well with another light weight body.

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    70
    I ran the TRX with a DX5r too but dont use the t-lock controller. Is it no option for you to connect the two lockingservos directly to the receiver? For me its a cool option to switch the diffs really seperated. The receiverbox is very small, i had even trouble to put my DX5r stuff into the summit but the TRX one is smaller At the moment i try to 3D print a bigger one, but i dont think i can design it waterproof...

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier SummitonSlingrs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    366
    Glad you finally got your TRX-4 and are seeming to enjoy. This is my first Scaler/Crawler so it is nice to hear your thoughts. I was blown away by its ability stock. Now with the wheels and all the brass its nearly unstoppable. I plan to go with a different body sometime I just cant help but running some form of the stock body, it looks so good. I was really hoping Traxxas would come with their light kit but I may have to go your route. Happy Trails!!
    Sla2hP4deXSummitRusty2TRX4Bigfoot#14TEC2.0Rally

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    So, here is a easy-cheesy mod...

    The included jerry-cans are a cool scale feature, but pretty much are just there for looks and to add some unneeded weight to the back of the truck. I glued a couple rare-earth magnets inside the outer side of the can...

    Gas can body clip holder by Greatscott, on Flickr

    This is something I do with all of my RCs, and try to hide the magnets somewhere that they will be easily accessible, but hidden.

    Of course, another option is to just put the body clips through the handles of the jerry-cans.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    The mods continue...

    Steering Servo...
    I have not had a problem with the stock servo yet, but I had a Savox 1230 servo sitting on the shelf that was just looking for a home. To power it I added a CC BEC set at 6.5VDC, which is connected through a servo 'Y', the other leg will be where I connect the LEDs when I get them installed (on order).

    Next I added a winch with an upgraded motor. Normally I connect these up through a 1/18 scale ESC, but to keep the installation as clean as possible, I just used RC4WD's controller, it works.

    I swapped out the radio system for my DX5R, using a T-Lock module to control the diffs. Because of how it is programmed I cannot go fully unlocked with the diffs, I would need to add a servo reverser to make it act "normal". But, I was thinking about it, I am going to have the diffs locked most of the time anyways, and with crawling on the rocks, it makes more sense to be able to unlock the back or the front, vs being able to unlock them both; I seems like having it set up this way, and being able to diff the power out of the front or rear wheels will make it act sort of like a dig setup. I haven't tested this on the rocks yet, I'll let you know how it works.

    To hide the T-Lock, I mounted it in the small portion of the battery compartment. My orgininal plan was to mount the BEC here as well, but the capacitor sticks up just a little too much, and I did not want to stress the leads.

    Here some pictures...

    An overall shot of everything installed...

    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    The servo with the winch controller mounted on it.
    TRX4 mods by Greatscott, on Flickr

    I would have preferred just using double-back tape, but it would not stick to the silicon sealant all that well.
    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    The T-Lock in the battery compartment:
    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    Added some heat sinks...
    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    That 6 ch RX barely fits, and pooches out the sides just a little bit. Luckily the top conformed to the new shape nicely, and a good mount of silicone grease should make sure it does not leak...
    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    I found a home of the BEC on the left side of the truck, it is ok here, but I REALLY liked the idea of hiding it in the battery compartment.

    TRX4 mods by Scott O, on Flickr

    Also, with the installation of the DX5R, the issue I had with the drag brake (mode 5) has gone away completely.

    Next up will likely be LEDs and brass portal covers, both on order...
    Last edited by Greatscott; 08-13-2017 at 10:35 PM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier lotust251's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    280
    looks good man, nice and neat wires
    Slash, Stampede,Craniac,X2 TRX4 ,ford gt 4 tec 2.0

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    8
    Have you measured any motor temp drop with the heat sinks?

    Any reason you didn't simply connect the shift servos to ch 4 and 5 so you have perfect control via the DXR5?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by CoolRunning View Post
    Have you measured any motor temp drop with the heat sinks?
    Not yet. I did take temps of the motor while running on a 95*/f day, it was only 130. I do need to pull them off and put thermal compound between the motor and the sinks.

    Quote Originally Posted by CoolRunning View Post
    Any reason you didn't simply connect the shift servos to ch 4 and 5 so you have perfect control via the DXR5?
    Using Ch. 3 for a winch.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    LEDs are installed...

    Here is the write up on the bezels I used from MyTrickRC:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...TrickRC-Bezels

    TRX4 by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 by Scott O, on Flickr

    Next up, a half pound of crawling goodness to install...

    TRX4 by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 by Scott O, on Flickr

    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier SummitonSlingrs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    366
    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Next up, a half pound of crawling goodness to install...
    Nice!!!!!!
    Sla2hP4deXSummitRusty2TRX4Bigfoot#14TEC2.0Rally

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Rcguy5's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    267
    what savox servo are you using?
    SLAM!
    "That Tree jumped right in front of me"

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Rcguy5 View Post
    what savox servo are you using?
    Its a 1230SG. It is a lot more servo than this truck needs, but I shouldn't have any issues with frying it. I am running it at 6.5VDC.

    http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SA1230...avsa1230sg.htm
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Rcguy5's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    267
    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Its a 1230SG. It is a lot more servo than this truck needs, but I shouldn't have any issues with frying it. I am running it at 6.5VDC.

    http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SA1230...avsa1230sg.htm

    Nice. I have that servo in my summit. I like it a lot.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SLAM!
    "That Tree jumped right in front of me"

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    The portal covers are installed.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    I was fully expecting to have clearance issues with the Axial wheels, but they fit over the covers with no rubbing. With the covers and the weighted wheels the chassis weighs in at a husky 7lbs.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Jersey for now
    Posts
    181
    Man those portal covers are huge. Lol. Glad they fit with no issue.
    If it still moves, it aint broke enough!

  19. #19
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    So, here is a easy-cheesy mod...

    The included jerry-cans are a cool scale feature, but pretty much are just there for looks and to add some unneeded weight to the back of the truck. I glued a couple rare-earth magnets inside the outer side of the can...

    Gas can body clip holder by Greatscott, on Flickr

    This is something I do with all of my RCs, and try to hide the magnets somewhere that they will be easily accessible, but hidden.

    Of course, another option is to just put the body clips through the handles of the jerry-cans.
    Did you know there are four holes in the roll bar above the windshield that you can stick the pins in?

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Inspector86 View Post
    Did you know there are four holes in the roll bar above the windshield that you can stick the pins in?
    Yup, saw those. I plan to have a light bar there soon, so that would only be a temporary option.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Winter has come early up here in the Inland NW, oh goodie....

    But, this makes for a perfect opportunity for some snow bashing...

    https://youtu.be/vGfxS89dQO8

    TRX 4 in snow by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX 4 in snow by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX 4 in snow by Scott O, on Flickr

    I haven't heard any problems with the TRX4's drive train, but I have been a little sheepish to go above 2S. Today I saw a video of a British guy running (abusing) a MMX under 6S power, the stock drive train held up perfectly. So, I decided to bite the bullet and throw in a 3S pack, had no problems and lots of fun.

    As far as the body goes, I was looking at buying Traxxas' light kit, but have decided to wait for the Bronco body kit to come out.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    945
    Snow, really come on mother nature. I know the snow is coming for me too. Hoping to make one big outing one more time. Guess you can build a trail from the piles of snow you have.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    5,087
    The drivetrain holds up just fine to 3s on stock motor but the ESC can be a bit iffy. I don't know if it was my BEC or the ESC as a whole but I got about 14 hours out of mine and it just quit. But as far as axle strength and even the stock portal boxes this truck is very strong. I've gotten my wheels bound up pretty tight and goosed the throttle almost expecting to strip out a portal gear or twist an axle and it just popped out of its little hole in the rocks and bounced up the hill. The motor can get a bit hot after a while on hiking trails on 3s but there's usually a creek I can splash through or just take a breather.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Bike mechanic View Post
    Snow, really come on mother nature. I know the snow is coming for me too. Hoping to make one big outing one more time. Guess you can build a trail from the piles of snow you have.
    Yeah, we got over a foot of snow over the weekend, plowed by driveway three times. Not thrilled with it at all, I was hoping the snow would hold off for another month or so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy View Post
    The drivetrain holds up just fine to 3s on stock motor but the ESC can be a bit iffy. I don't know if it was my BEC or the ESC as a whole but I got about 14 hours out of mine and it just quit. But as far as axle strength and even the stock portal boxes this truck is very strong. I've gotten my wheels bound up pretty tight and goosed the throttle almost expecting to strip out a portal gear or twist an axle and it just popped out of its little hole in the rocks and bounced up the hill. The motor can get a bit hot after a while on hiking trails on 3s but there's usually a creek I can splash through or just take a breather.
    I have a couple of heat sinks on the motor coupled with thermal grease. On 2S the motor seems to get around 110*/f and stay there (80-90* weather), so I am hoping under 3S it won't get much warmer.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier lotust251's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    280
    nice, I dont think I have ever seen the TRX4 in snow. it looks like it does really well with 3s
    Slash, Stampede,Craniac,X2 TRX4 ,ford gt 4 tec 2.0

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Had some odd breakage today...

    TRX4 Axle break by Greatscott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Axle break by Greatscott, on Flickr

    To be fair, the truck did have an odd landing after a ~10ft tumble, and it was only 26*/f. The most annoying thing is that my LHS cannot order the parts I need for repair, something about having to submit forms so that he can order directly from Traxxas.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  27. #27
    RC Champion rizz0d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,162
    ouch! looks like tom meents got his hands on it, lol.
    youtube: rizzodtheRCvlogger

  28. #28
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    AW man!
    Choose Life !!!

  29. #29
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    173
    I've been wondering about parts availability for these as well. I don't need anything but I've noticed tower hobbies is out for anything and for some reason horizon hobby doesn't seem to show anything for the trx-4 either. They have other parts and vehicles but nothing when it comes to the TRX-4. I hope my LHS can get parts for it. I bought the car at the LHS.

  30. #30

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Toadster25 View Post
    I've been wondering about parts availability for these as well. I don't need anything but I've noticed tower hobbies is out for anything and for some reason horizon hobby doesn't seem to show anything for the trx-4 either. They have other parts and vehicles but nothing when it comes to the TRX-4. I hope my LHS can get parts for it. I bought the car at the LHS.
    Tower is no longer carrying Traxxas RCs and parts, Traxxas is suing Tower's parent company for copywrite infringement. Horizon never carries Traxxas RCs or parts, they have their own store brands like Losi and Horizon RCs.

    I have ordered parts directly from Traxxas, which is not nearly as annoying as Traxxas not shipping to PO Boxes...

    Oddly enough, I am looking forward to cracking the axle open and getting a peak inside. For me, maintenance, building, and rebuilding are fun parts of the hobby. I think while I have things apart I am going to adjust the WB to 12.3" so I can put a different body on it, leaning towards Proline's new '46 Dodge Power Ram body.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  32. #32
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PARKER COLO
    Posts
    1,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Tower is no longer carrying Traxxas RCs and parts, Traxxas is suing Tower's parent company for copywrite infringement. Horizon never carries Traxxas RCs or parts, they have their own store brands like Losi and Horizon RCs.

    I have ordered parts directly from Traxxas, which is not nearly as annoying as Traxxas not shipping to PO Boxes...

    Oddly enough, I am looking forward to cracking the axle open and getting a peak inside. For me, maintenance, building, and rebuilding are fun parts of the hobby. I think while I have things apart I am going to adjust the WB to 12.3" so I can put a different body on it, leaning towards Proline's new '46 Dodge Power Ram body.
    I stopped ordering parts from LHS years ago. If they have it in stock great if not I order direct from Traxxas. I have had great success with them and no problems at all. They are a day or two longer than Amain and some of them. All my LHS only order on Thursdays and that's if they have enough to make an order, then they typically receive there stuff the following Friday and then it takes a couple days to unpack and call me. Can be up to two weeks to get stuff. Plus I usually have to find the schematics, determine the part numbers give it to the LHS, they are typically clueless.
    I also understand the problems the LHS has, they have all the different brands and vehicles and to try to stock parts has just got to be a nightmare. Most of the longstanding employees have now moved on for better paying jobs so most the employees are young, inexperienced and just trying to find there way. The LHS that do seem to have a clue really specialize in certain categories - Crawlers, Bashers, Road vehicles, Drones etc and can be very helpful. Unfortunately they are in the minority and hard to find. Closest Crawler shop for me is an hour and half away. Fortunately i don't have to deal with a PO Box so that's a non issue for me. Hope Traxxas comes through for you. Enjoy
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Finally, parts on hand...

    Untitled by Greatscott, on Flickr
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier Iansprouse1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Asheville NC
    Posts
    441
    If you ever need to order RC parts online (ALWAYS check LHS first they can usually order for you) go with amazon, ebay, or amain. I have prime so I get free 2 day shipping and that is wonderful. Ebay is usually the least expensive and you can also get really fast shipping for free. Amain charges a small fee for shipping but they carry pretty much everything.
    Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, SCX10, Bearded Dragon

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Got the axle repaired last night, wasn't terrible, just took it slow.

    Once again the Traxxas engineers have done a good job. I wasn't looking forward to taking apart the portals, thanks to good design, I didn't have to, two screws hold each portal on.

    The diff lock is pretty nifty (I am certain that the Traxxas engineers were shooting for "nify" when they designed this), its simple, but it works. To get the axle out you have to pop the balled end for the diff control off of the servo, and remove the retaining screw on the chassis. After that you have to pop the diff case cover off, remove the diff lock, then the diff, pop the E-clip off, then thread the diff-lock control cable through the diff case. This sounds more complicated than it really was. The really important thing is to just stay organized with your hardware when you are removing it.

    Next, adjusting the WB. Took a bunch of measurements last nigh, the best I can tell is the lower links need to be 122mm eye-to-eye, and the uppers need to be 124mm to get to 313mm, or 12.3". I have two ends I can use, one is 18mm from eye-to-end, and the other is 12mm, which will make my links 86mm and 88mm, or 100mm and 102mm (lowers and uppers). Going out today to see if the LHS has what I need. I will likely use RC4WD or STRC links, and if I can't get the specific lengths, I will cut my own. With this, I do like fabricating my own parts, but in the winter it is difficult to get my shop warm enough to work in comfortably, so if Traxxas has a link kit for changing the WB available, I would just use that.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  36. #36
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Redding, CA
    Posts
    190
    I was wondering how easy it might be to snap an axle housing.

    Would you say it's pretty easy to do?

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    Quote Originally Posted by ExplorerNate87 View Post
    I was wondering how easy it might be to snap an axle housing.

    Would you say it's pretty easy to do?
    It was pretty easy for me, but I think I am that rare bird, haven't heard of anyone else doing it. I think it was just perfect conditions coming together to make it happen, the cold, trying to get up a slick rock, my bad driving, the tumble, and the rock that stopped the whole mess when it hit the wheel breaking the axle.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Redding, CA
    Posts
    190
    Okay, gotcha...So, the conditions aligned to cause the carnage.

    Sounds like the axle may have landed on a rock while also taking impact from a tumble, so it severely stressed the axle housing at one sharp and acute point, almost like a guillotine, so to speak.

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    7,558
    12.3" (312mm) Wheelbase Change...

    Almost done shortening the WB. For the most part it is fairly straight forward, but having had my fair share of Axial rigs, fabbing up links and such isn't that big of a deal.

    Links:
    I would have thought that Traxxas would have a selection of links out by now, but no. To get the WB to 312mm you need the eye-to-eye length of the the top links to be 125mm and the bottom links to be 122mm (back links only). The rod ends I am using are 12mm from the eye to the end that attaches to the link, which equals 24mm. I was able to find a 4-pack of STRC 98mm links at my LHS, and I used these top and bottom. These links were perfect for the bottom, but I needed to put 3mm of spacers in the top links. I did try have the top and bottom links the same size, but it made bottom of the portals tilt towards the back of the truck, so I added the spacers.


    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    Shock Towers:
    It took me a minute or two to figure out the shock towers and the extended body mount, and how they worked to change the WB. What the Traxxas engineers came up with is pretty slick, the how patterns in the chassis line up just right to allow for four different shock tower positions. The body mount extension is a neat bonus, but it all depends on where you mount the back of the body if you are going to use it or not.

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    Here you can see from the dust where the stock position of the mount was, and where I moved it two. If you flip the shock towers from left to right, you get two more mounting positions.

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    With the WB moved up, there is a lot of real estate back here. Just eyeballing it, if the WB was shortened up anymore I think part of the chassis skids would have to be removed to allow the tires to clear.

    Problems:
    So for the only problem I have ran in to is the back drive shaft, it is too long for the 12.3" WB. It looks like one solution is to get a front drive shaft set and mix and match between the back drive shaft set for a combo the works. Or, just cut them down a bit, which is likely what I am going to do.

    Body:
    As cool as the stock body is, it is just too heavy for competitive crawling. I am still shopping for another one, but I think I might go with the Proline 1946 Dodge Power Wagon Clear Body. But, I have not committed to it yet. The biggest thing I don't like about it is not having bezels for LEDs. I think I can solve that problem with an Axial LED kit.

    https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...on-clear-body/
    Last edited by Greatscott; 12-21-2017 at 11:17 PM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  40. #40
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Pembroke, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    203
    very nice write up! since i want to shorten the wb on mine ill be following what you have done.
    Traxxas 1/10 Summit, TRX4 Tactical
    -Marc Gill

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •