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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    If you do not want to make your own links, there are several companies out there that are making them. This set from Vanquish looks good and uses the stock 4mm rod ends, which is something I no not like with my setup, it only uses 3mm rod ends, which is a recipe for failure with a rig this heavy. As much as I like having custom parts on my rigs, I might just bight the bullet and get a set of these.

    http://www.vanquishproducts.com/inci...3in-wheelbase/
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  2. #42
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    Great Scott what are you doing for shortening the drive shafts? For 12.3 wb
    Traxxas 1/10 Summit, TRX4 Tactical
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  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    For now I just cut them on both sides. I have HR shafts I am going to replace it with.


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  4. #44
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    Great Scott this mayhelp i asked on a TRX4 facebook group the same question hear's a reply that may help you if you want to use stock parts i also asked if they cut them to size. hope this info may help you
    " I did cut mine then I worked out of you use half of a stock front along with half of a rear stock it gives you the perfect length drive shaft ��"
    Traxxas 1/10 Summit, TRX4 Tactical
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  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schs2013 View Post
    Great Scott this mayhelp i asked on a TRX4 facebook group the same question hear's a reply that may help you if you want to use stock parts i also asked if they cut them to size. hope this info may help you
    " I did cut mine then I worked out of you use half of a stock front along with half of a rear stock it gives you the perfect length drive shaft ��"
    That's good to know!!!

    I went ahead and replaced the stock shafts with HR drive shafts, I have used these on other rigs and have never had a failure:

    TRX4 & HR Shafts by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 & HR Shafts by Scott O, on Flickr

    These should work for the back shaft regardless of the WB, but they are a little long in the front. I ground 3/8" off of the shaft, and that brought it up just short enough to get it installed, but would recommend removing a full 1/2".
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    12.3" (312mm) Wheelbase Change...

    Almost done shortening the WB. For the most part it is fairly straight forward, but having had my fair share of Axial rigs, fabbing up links and such isn't that big of a deal.

    Links:
    I would have thought that Traxxas would have a selection of links out by now, but no. To get the WB to 312mm you need the eye-to-eye length of the the top links to be 125mm and the bottom links to be 122mm (back links only). The rod ends I am using are 12mm from the eye to the end that attaches to the link, which equals 24mm. I was able to find a 4-pack of STRC 98mm links at my LHS, and I used these top and bottom. These links were perfect for the bottom, but I needed to put 3mm of spacers in the top links. I did try have the top and bottom links the same size, but it made bottom of the portals tilt towards the back of the truck, so I added the spacers.


    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    Shock Towers:
    It took me a minute or two to figure out the shock towers and the extended body mount, and how they worked to change the WB. What the Traxxas engineers came up with is pretty slick, the how patterns in the chassis line up just right to allow for four different shock tower positions. The body mount extension is a neat bonus, but it all depends on where you mount the back of the body if you are going to use it or not.

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    Here you can see from the dust where the stock position of the mount was, and where I moved it two. If you flip the shock towers from left to right, you get two more mounting positions.

    TRX4 12.3” by Scott O, on Flickr

    With the WB moved up, there is a lot of real estate back here. Just eyeballing it, if the WB was shortened up anymore I think part of the chassis skids would have to be removed to allow the tires to clear.

    Problems:
    So for the only problem I have ran in to is the back drive shaft, it is too long for the 12.3" WB. It looks like one solution is to get a front drive shaft set and mix and match between the back drive shaft set for a combo the works. Or, just cut them down a bit, which is likely what I am going to do.

    Body:
    As cool as the stock body is, it is just too heavy for competitive crawling. I am still shopping for another one, but I think I might go with the Proline 1946 Dodge Power Wagon Clear Body. But, I have not committed to it yet. The biggest thing I don't like about it is not having bezels for LEDs. I think I can solve that problem with an Axial LED kit.

    https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...on-clear-body/
    I can't wait to see this truck... I want this body as well.

  7. #47
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_b View Post
    I can't wait to see this truck... I want this body as well.
    Yup, a lot of people do, that is why I have been waiting weeks for my LHS to get the silly thing in.
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  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Finally got the body painted...

    Proline 46 Dodge by Greatscott, on Flickr

    Proline 46 Dodge by Greatscott, on Flickr

    Next will be the lights, then the stickers (or stickers then the lights, haven't decided)....

    I am going to use the large Axial light buckets for the front, and I am going to use small light buckets on the side of the bed, or pass-through light bezels for the back, haven't decided yet. The included light set is ok if you do not want to actually put lights in them, I do, so I am not using them.

    Overall it was a normal enough paint job on this body. The split-body is new, but didn't make it any more difficult to paint up. I had to notch out the center of it for the battery box, and I might have to move the RX box a little bit forward to get the body to fit correctly. The biggest pain by far was maintaining my spray booth around 75*/f in a 40*/f garage.

    So far the two things that I have not liked about this body are the undercut sides on the bed and the connecting hardware. The undercut sides made it very difficult to get rattle can paint in there without applying a ton of paint in that area, and if you look closely at one of the sides you can see where the paint ran a little. The included hardware is a bit chintzy, the bolts are fine, but the nuts strip out very easily. I replaced them with nylocks. Also, it bugs me that the king of RC bodies does not die-cut their decals.
    Last edited by Greatscott; 03-04-2018 at 10:50 PM.
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  9. #49
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    Sweet painting

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    Traxxas 1/10 Summit, TRX4 Tactical
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  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    And now I need to figure out what to wrap these in...

    Beadlocks by Scott O, on Flickr
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  11. #51
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    Ooooooooo, shiny rims! They look heavy though...
    Guess who's back.
    Back again.

  12. #52
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    I have tried the Pit Bull Rock Beasts, Hyrax, stock, etc etc. These are my favorite https://www.ottsix.com/ I use the Voodoo KLR's. There foams are really nice also, you can get the different foams for the weight of your vehicle. I have to say the Rock Beasts and Hydrax are a very close second. Even the stock tires aren't bad. Ordered a set from Traxxas and mounted them on some beadlocks, was impressed. Send out photos when your done. Love the body, says its a 46 dodge from Proline, is it a certain size, 1/10, 1/8 ? have fun
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkletron View Post
    Ooooooooo, shiny rims! They look heavy though...
    They are actually very light, I will likely add 4 -6 oz to each wheel.

    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    I have tried the Pit Bull Rock Beasts, Hyrax, stock, etc etc. These are my favorite https://www.ottsix.com/ I use the Voodoo KLR's. There foams are really nice also, you can get the different foams for the weight of your vehicle. I have to say the Rock Beasts and Hydrax are a very close second. Even the stock tires aren't bad. Ordered a set from Traxxas and mounted them on some beadlocks, was impressed. Send out photos when your done. Love the body, says its a 46 dodge from Proline, is it a certain size, 1/10, 1/8 ? have fun
    I have a set of Rock Beasts mounted up on Axial rims, I was thinking of using those. But, I figured I'd see if there were something better out there.

    That body 1/10-sized, with a WB of 312mm.
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  14. #54
    RC Racer cozyFozy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    And now I need to figure out what to wrap these in...
    Greatscott,
    How do you feel about the RC4WD 1.9 Iroks?? These things look killer scale, and perform quite well (according to Utube lol..)

    I think they would compliment the new body & wheels!

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozyFozy View Post
    Greatscott,
    How do you feel about the RC4WD 1.9 Iroks?? These things look killer scale, and perform quite well (according to Utube lol..)

    I think they would compliment the new body & wheels!
    Looks like a great tire.

    I am planning on going to my LHS this weekend with a short list of tires that people have recommend, like the Irok, and if they have them in stock, buy a full set.
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  16. #56
    RC Qualifier JatoTheRipper's Avatar
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    Iroks are good tires. But RC4WD's X2SS compound isn't the best and it wears faster than the rest. I'd recommend Proline TSL Super Swampers instead.

    Proline and Pitbull are my go to tires. But I only buy Pitbulls when they have 50% off sales, because at normal prices they are extremely overpriced.

  17. #57
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    Another body for the TRX4

    The Nulizer was a concept vehicle made by Jeep in 2010. Axial made this body (copy) of it which is currently available from ASAP Hobbies and AMain. In order for it to fit the wheel base needs to be shortened. This is designed into the TRX4 and there are 4 choices. 300, 312, 324, and 336mm. The Land Rover comes set up with the 324mm, for the Nukizer you need to change it to 312mm. I used a set of Incision lower links to do this. I used Tamiya Gunmetal for the body and light silver for the top. Also black for the bumpers. The flat look is sprayed on the outside of the body. I used "Frosted Glass" but Tamiya Flat clears will work.

  18. #58
    RC Racer cozyFozy's Avatar
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    Greatscott,

    Did you end up with some new treads?

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Well, I am not sure how much I like what I have here...

    The body fits ok, but the only way I can get it lower is to move around the electronics. This REALLY is not a body I recommend for the TRX4, takes a lot of work to get it to the point where it will go on. To get the bumpers to look right at all I had to flip the bumper mounts upside-down, which also improved my approach and departure angles a lot. This body does allow for a lot of articulation with those Irok tires. I need to throw some accessories on there and hit the trail...

    TRX4 with Dodge Body by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 with Dodge Body by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 with Dodge Body by GreatScott, on Flickr
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  20. #60
    RC Racer cozyFozy's Avatar
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    Well, I see you were able to pick up some new shoes... I just wish everything would have come together the way you envisioned. I really hoped this new body would fit down lower on the chassis. Wheels, tires, & body all go well together...

    Are you going to tinker with it any further? Or cruise around as is?

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozyFozy View Post
    Are you going to tinker with it any further? Or cruise around as is?
    I have accessories I am going to put on, but I think I am done until I get some rock time on it and see how it does. This body is a lot lighter than the Defender body, so it should do well.
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  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    I think I am done with it for now. I have a few scale items installed, I might add a couple of points on the back that I can winch off of, but I think I need to get this thing on the rocks.

    TRX4 Proline Dodge by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Proline Dodge by GreatScott, on Flickr

    The winch anchor is held in by a clip on one side, and magnets on the other.

    TRX4 Proline Dodge by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Proline Dodge by GreatScott, on Flickr

    The magnets on the front provide a place to hold the body clips.

    TRX4 Proline Dodge by GreatScott, on Flickr
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  23. #63
    RC Qualifier lotust251's Avatar
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    looks sweet gretscott
    Slash, Stampede,Craniac,X2 TRX4 ,ford gt 4 tec 2.0

  24. #64
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    Awesome stuff

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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    I think I have the Mode 5 issue figured out...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oJe7PFyJE0

    With that, I attempted to switch to my DX5R last night and ran into a little snag, the T-Lock module I have does not work the same as the TRX4's TQi. It puts both diffs being locked in the center position, and switching it one way unlocks the front and keeps the back locked; switching it the other way unlocks the back and keeps the front locked. I am trying to figure out if this isn't actually going to help me, and I might run it this way for a little bit to see how I like it.

    Also, that really cool RX box is make just for the TQi's RX, my six channel RX for the DX5R is just a little too wide. It will fit, but it bows out the sides of the box a little. Luckily, there is a little give in the lid, and it will conform to the new shape. Just to be on the safe side though, I am going to goop the o-ring with an ample amount of silicone grease, just to make sure it is water tight.
    Maybe the brake, have you tried applying brakes before let go of the trigger? I got my trx-4 this past fryday, but i own alot of traxxas models, esc wants traxxas rx, and you need to understand how they interact together. only my two cents! Cheer!
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  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    The problem was with the controller, the trigger was not fully returning to the middle, causing the drag brake not to engage.
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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Had some odd breakage today...

    TRX4 Axle break by Greatscott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Axle break by Greatscott, on Flickr

    To be fair, the truck did have an odd landing after a ~10ft tumble, and it was only 26*/f. The most annoying thing is that my LHS cannot order the parts I need for repair, something about having to submit forms so that he can order directly from Traxxas.
    this was caused by the extra weight you put on the PORTAL AXLES. Torck killed it! Physics laws! It is only plastic!
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Opinions needed:

    Leave the roll bar smoked chrome, or remove the chrome and paint it black?

    TRX4 Roll bar by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Roll bar by GreatScott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Roll bar by GreatScott, on Flickr
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  29. #69
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    I don't like the roll bar at all. Looks out of place on that body. If you do keep it I would cut it down so it's even with the cab.

  30. #70
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    It looks very nice to me, i would keep it that way.
    Summit RX8/1550kv-Slash4x4 MM2/2400kv Twin-V Merv.

  31. #71
    RC Racer cozyFozy's Avatar
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    It's a nice touch, I'd stick with the smoked chrome personally. Trimming it down a little is a good idea too (if possible). Those are some nice looking tires you got there fella.. lol

  32. #72
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    It looks too tall to me and it need a light bar (not an led light bar but a couple light buckets). EDIT: I also think it would look better if it sat more against the cab and not really far like it is now Also personally I love the look and performance of the Pitbull Rock Beasts. Take note that I did have a bad experience with the bead of the pitbull tires in the fact that they are different than every other tire out there and don't like internal beadlocks
    Last edited by Sprinkletron; 03-19-2018 at 10:46 AM.
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  33. #73
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    I think the chrome looks good myself. Goes with the old school truck body. But as others have stated i thinks its just a bit to tall. Also think light pods would look really good but they would get smashed every time it rolls. Over all good looking truck buddy. Good job.
    If it still moves, it aint broke enough!

  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Thanks for your inputs!!!

    I decided to take the chrome off, paint the it black, add a light bar, and modify the roll bar slightly. Here is what I ended up with:

    TRX4 Roll Bar by Greatscott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Roll Bar by Greatscott, on Flickr

    TRX4 Roll Bar by Greatscott, on Flickr
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  35. #75
    RC Racer cozyFozy's Avatar
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    Good work Greatscott

  36. #76
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boilo56 View Post
    this was caused by the extra weight you put on the PORTAL AXLES. Torck killed it! Physics laws! It is only plastic!
    Yes and no...

    The truck landed on the wheel on the side where it broke, so the wheel weight on that wheel had little to do with the breakage. It could be argued that the mass that other three weights added gave the truck enough mass and inertia (coupled with the speed of the fall and the plastic being brittle due to the cold temps) to snap the axle. But, with how it landed, and how cold it was, I think it would have broke no matter what. If anything, I am glad it broke like that and did not just crack causing weird performance problems for me to chase down.
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  37. #77
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    Went to our first comp of the year and finally got some run time on this truck with the 12.3" WB and new body. While there are still a number of areas to tweak on, I am very happy with the performance of everything on the truck. As cool as the defender body is, there is no way I could have climbed and side-hilled like I did today with that body on. It was also cool to see a couple more TRX4s on the rocks, I think there were five of us (out of ~ 80 drivers).

    I think I need to put a bit more reload into the back shocks, and maybe go with a little thicker of shock oil.

    Even though it side-hilled like a champ, I am still not a fan of how high the body is above the chassis. I might see about moving the electronics out of the way to allow the body to sit down a bit more. One thing at a time though...
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  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Went to our first comp of the year and finally got some run time on this truck with the 12.3" WB and new body. While there are still a number of areas to tweak on, I am very happy with the performance of everything on the truck. As cool as the defender body is, there is no way I could have climbed and side-hilled like I did today with that body on. It was also cool to see a couple more TRX4s on the rocks, I think there were five of us (out of ~ 80 drivers).

    I think I need to put a bit more reload into the back shocks, and maybe go with a little thicker of shock oil.

    Even though it side-hilled like a champ, I am still not a fan of how high the body is above the chassis. I might see about moving the electronics out of the way to allow the body to sit down a bit more. One thing at a time though...
    Sounds like you had a good time. If your going to do another comp, hopefully gives you some time to tweak your truck. It is a good looking body you fixed up.

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike mechanic View Post
    Sounds like you had a good time. If your going to do another comp, hopefully gives you some time to tweak your truck. It is a good looking body you fixed up.
    That is the plan, but I really can't complain about its first outing, I finish 3rd out of 84.
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  40. #80
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    I did a bit of rewiring, and changed out the stock RX case...

    The stock RX case was a bit narrow for the 6-channel Spektrum RX, so I relocated the RX to the back of the truck. Basically relocating the box required me to pull all wires back and rerun them all, which it turned out a lot neater in the end. I did have a moment of heartbreak when I had everything all buttoned up and working and realized I had ran the BEC directly to the receiver instead of through a splitter so the lights would work.

    I also noticed a problem, the shift cable for the back diff is just kinking and is not unlocking the diff. I have tried to fix it, but it will not unlock the diff on its own. Looks like I either need to get a new shift cable or just bite the bullet and install spools.

    TRX4 by GreatScott, on Flickr

    You can see the bent cable on this picture...
    TRX4 by GreatScott, on Flickr

    While I was rewiring stuff I replaced the RC4WD winch controller for this Hobbywing 1625 ESC. I installed one of these in my new Bomber and it works very well. The only issue with it is that it has a double-clutch reverse, which really just keeps me from bringing in winch line by mistake.
    TRX4 by GreatScott, on Flickr
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