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Thread: SWB Basher

  1. #1
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    SWB Basher

    I saw a couple videos of a short wheel base chassis designed for traxxas parts and I had to have one. But I'm not 100% sold on the concept of how it will handle so I wanted to build one to test, plus I've been itching to make something else, anything really.

    So here's my test version after the first night of working on it. I still have to work out the rear arms, endlinks/turnbuckles and figure out how to make a roll cage. I don't plan on running a body, but I should be able to run a 1/12 scale body if I do decide that I want one, or trim down a bandit shell. Once all of that is figure out, and I decide that I want to keep it, then I'll spend some money on a piece of G10 or Carbon Fiber and cut out a new chassis that doesn't look so cobbled together. So far, the plan was to start with a chassis and use whatever parts/supplies that I have laying around, so this isn't a work of art.

    On to tonight's work:

    I started with a fresh chassis and removed 1.4" off of it. First cut, was to go straight through the chassis at the bend in the wings:



    Then I notched both pieces so that they would fit together kind of like a puzzle. This just seemed like it would be a little stronger then cutting out two straight cuts and joining the halves together in one plane.



    Fits together pretty nicely. I screwed both halves to a board to hold them in place while I worked on connecting them back together.


    Here it is with a shorty lipo in it. This was pure dumb luck that it fit so nicely. I initially planned on running a standard battery sideways and completely didn't consider this battery until I looked for a battery and it screamed "pick me"! Looks snug in there, so it's staying.


    I had a couple of scrap pieces of carbon fiber plate laying around. This was left over from previous projects. Here's the first piece that I trimmed out to fit over the battery. This will act as a battery tie down and a support for the cut chassis. So yeah, I'll have to unscrew four screws whenever I want to remove the battery, so it's probably going to live in here, until I can make version 2 of this car. This plate should make for a nice mount for an ESC as well.


    Doh, I need to access the wires, so I had to notch a little opening in the plate. In this picture you can also see the aluminum straps that I used as vertical supports to help hold the chassis together.


    Here's more scrap carbon fiber plate. Again, this was left over from a previous project, which is why there are odd curves in the pieces. They just happened to fit in this area so I used them.


    I thought that I would need a skid plate to tie the bottom chassis together, but initial tests showed that the bracing I used so far was already stronger than the factory chassis, in resisting flex. It might not hold up to a bunch of impacts, but this is version 1, let's see if this is enough.


    Also, I started to get tired at this point, so I put the camera down. My son and I disassembled his Stampede and used the front/rear parts for this car. The stampede doesn't have a bellcrank, so I searched through my box and found a spare that I had for a Slash 4x4. A little rearranging of the bellcrank and trimming on the rustler chassis and it fits. It might need some work in the case of bumpsteer, but I won't know that until after the next step.

    We had done a wide-arm conversion on the stampede, so that was the first arms that we put on here.

  2. #2
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    Here are a couple of pictures of the chassis with wide arms, and stampede wheels:



    That's probably going to wheelie like mad and spin out or flip every time I try to turn, so I'll pass on this setup.

    Here are the wide arms with Rustler wheels:



    Still looks awkward and I think handling would be a disaster with the arms being considerably wider than the wheelbase. So I pulled those off and installed Bandit front and rear arms. Here are some pics with wheels and tires on the bandit arms:

    Stampede tires, bandit arms:


    Rustler tires, bandit arms:




    I like the last option a little better and it's getting close, but still a bit awkward. The rear wheels are too far in. Next up, I'll try a combo of bandit front arms and nitro rustler rear arms. Those rear arms are a little longer than the bandit arms, but not as long as rustler rear arms. In addition to improved handling, I think the shorter arms will be less likely to break in the unlikely event of a crash.

  3. #3
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    Bandit front arms and what I believe are N. Rustler rear arms. Now the rear is just a little wider than the front by about .5". I have a few more arm combinations to try, I have a set of RPM front arms that I have no idea what they came from. They are between 1/10-2/10th longer than the bandit arms so they should work. Got to get this worked out today so I can test this thing out before the weekend.

    Anyway, here are the pics:




    If anyone has a Rustler rollcage that you’re willing to part with, please let me know.
    Last edited by jmauld; 08-15-2017 at 11:35 AM.

  4. #4
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    I got all of the suspension and steering links installed. Mechanically, it’s ready to go. Just need to,pull the electronics from my eagle.

    Here’s a comparison shot to my bandit.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Amistry20's Avatar
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    Nice! What scale is it considered now? do you have a body that fits?

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    RC Qualifier CrawlinMike's Avatar
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    I'm really liking this! I'm excited to see what you come up with for a cage or body. Glad you went back to a narrower width than the first wide arms.
    Lock, Stomp, and Steer. No Fear

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amistry20 View Post
    Nice! What scale is it considered now? do you have a body that fits?
    It's going to be closest to 1/12 I think. A 1/10 Touring car body fits over it nicely, but that's not the look I'm going for. Maybe a future revision will be to turn it into a 2wd rally or drift car?


    Quote Originally Posted by CrawlinMike View Post
    I'm really liking this! I'm excited to see what you come up with for a cage or body. Glad you went back to a narrower width than the first wide arms.
    Yeah, those initial arms were just way to wide. I figured that before putting them on, but it was easy jt to check since they were already fitted to the bulkhead and transmission housing.

    This part is hopes/dreams at the moment, but I have my son working on a cage design for us to print. It would be nice to have him design a cage that we 3d print and then reinforce with carbon fiber to make it stronger.

    The stampede springs are WAY too stiff for this thing. I can drop it from 4-5' in the air and the chassis doesn't slap the ground. Or maybe that's what I want with this? Hopefully we'll get to drive it later today and figure that out.
    Last edited by jmauld; 08-16-2017 at 10:15 AM.

  8. #8
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    First test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PGYvHjpa4A

    My son was driving. I asked him to take it easy, because I didn't want it to flip and mess up any of the exposed electronics.

    It handled "not bad" for a first test. I need to get a decent set of tires to try on it.
    Last edited by jmauld; 08-16-2017 at 01:02 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier CrawlinMike's Avatar
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    Loving it! I sheared my tranny top shaft pin in mine. While I repair it I'll be adding an aluminum trans case. Watching this thread.
    Lock, Stomp, and Steer. No Fear

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    I suspect this will end up with an odd mixture of RPM and aluminum bits. I've started with traxxas parts, but I know some of those aren't going to last long.

    For the shock tower mounts, would you do RPM, or would you use a fiberglass front mount and aluminum rear mount?

    P.S. on second thought, I think I'll go through my box and find any unused RPM parts that will fit, and go ahead and install them. No reason to sacrifice the traxxas parts when I could use those on my bandit, which won't get beat up like this will.

    P.P.S. I also put a ball end on the steering knuckles and have already popped one out. I assume that probably saved me from a broken part, but it is kind of annoying how easily they pop loose. Have you used these parts before to try to keep from breaking parts?
    Last edited by jmauld; 08-17-2017 at 10:31 AM.

  11. #11
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    I used to hate when i had to leave the drivers stand to pop a ball cup back on in the middle of a heat... Stupid ball cups lol... Captured ball ends with strong steering parts have worked well since then for me
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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier CrawlinMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmauld View Post
    I suspect this will end up with an odd mixture of RPM and aluminum bits. I've started with traxxas parts, but I know some of those aren't going to last long.

    For the shock tower mounts, would you do RPM, or would you use a fiberglass front mount and aluminum rear mount?

    P.S. on second thought, I think I'll go through my box and find any unused RPM parts that will fit, and go ahead and install them. No reason to sacrifice the traxxas parts when I could use those on my bandit, which won't get beat up like this will.

    P.P.S. I also put a ball end on the steering knuckles and have already popped one out. I assume that probably saved me from a broken part, but it is kind of annoying how easily they pop loose. Have you used these parts before to try to keep from breaking parts?
    I'd go with aluminum/fiberglass on the shock towers, c-hubs, and carriers. Arms I like to stay stock and rpm. Something that'll give a little. I use rod ends like regular on steering links. Suspension too. And a servo saver on the servo. Hot racing makes a saver just like the traxxas plastic one with different stiffnesses. The savox 0231 replacement gear set drops right into a traxxas 2075 servo making it metal geared. Well the 0231 is good too I buy them as replacements when I've got the good out of stock ones.
    Lock, Stomp, and Steer. No Fear

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amistry20 View Post
    Nice! What scale is it considered now? do you have a body that fits?
    Still trying to decide what to do with the cage so in the meantime, I put some body mounts on it and a 1/10 scale TC body.




  14. #14
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    That looks pretty sweet, but I'll like it better when I can still see the cool chassis again lol
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  15. #15
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    Just playing around with some parts that I have here:




    I like the look and that it repurposes more traxxas parts. But it leaves the shocks completely exposed.

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    First broken part today. Rear bearing housing. Kind of surprised it wasn't a caster block.

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    I liked the look of the 1st set of wide arms. I bet that makes it super stable too. Should just try it to see how it handles. This is a cool build! Nice job.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  18. #18
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    Need a very small wing for it...
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  19. #19
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    I thought about a bandit wing, but it’ll never hold up. Maybe a hyper 10tt wing?

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    I found a guy on eBay that had a couple of rollcages for the slash, so I ordered one. Here’s how it came.




    Here it is on the badger (my son gave it a name)


    Just a little too long, so I cut the rear section off and bolted it back together, about 65mm shorter than the slash setup.


    And here’s how it turned out:


    Not too bad. I don’t have the center piece added there, but it was easy to install it. The cage connects to the car in four points so it should be fairly strong.
    Front bulkhead, center of chassis, rear shock tower and the rear bumper/wheelie bar mount.

    My currrent wheelie bar no longer works, so I’ll have to come up with a solution to that.
    Last edited by jmauld; 09-02-2017 at 01:36 PM.

  21. #21
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    Teeth on your spur look flat..., the modded cage looks sweet!
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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    RC Qualifier CrawlinMike's Avatar
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    This has come out really good.
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  23. #23
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    Thanks! I’m happy with it. I think I’m mostly done except trying to figure out a set of tires and springs for it.

  24. #24
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    Do you think modding the slash cage to fit a standard length rusty would work?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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    Yep, it should work. The instructions have you mount it to the upper chassis plate. I mounted it to the front bulkhead instead. On the rustler, it should reach the bulkhead, but I didnít check that before I cut it, so Iím not 100% sure itíll fit. Which is fine because you could just mount it to the upper chassis like the instructions say. You might be able to make it mount with cutting it.

    Just keep in mind, thereís a lot of drilling and cutting that I didnít show. I have a drill press that makes some of this easier. But you can do it with a hand held drill. Drill the holes on one side, then bolt the other piece to it and drill it. That will make sure that the holes are very close to each other.

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    Another thought. If you shortened the front end instead of the rear it would have more of a cab forward look to it. I was going to do that, but my boy veto’d that.

    I found a set of softer springs that work on it. The stampede springs were just too stiff. With these springs it handles turns now without rolling over and it still wheelies on demand at any speed short of full speed. I kind of want to find a set of the traxxas progressive springs to see how they handle.

    I thought I was finished with it, but thats not true. I want to add some kind of plastic skid plate roof. It’s a wheelie machine and spends a decent amount of time sliding upside down. My son and I were competing to see who could wheelie the farther tonight. The pressure mustve got to him because he kept over doing it. Then finally on his last run he held it past my best effort.

    Also want to add some headlights to it so we can see it at night. I’m also thinking about locking the diff so I can use it as a rock jumper. If anyone has any suggestions for either of these mods let me know.
    Last edited by jmauld; 09-04-2017 at 07:51 PM.

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier CrawlinMike's Avatar
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    I really don't think you'll like a locked diff in there. I broke several shafts on fairly mild running and what handling there is will go almost entirely away. That was on a stampede I did it on. You could run heavy duty shafts but the weak links start popping up fast-top shaft shears pin and stripping spur/pinion too easy comes to mind. Plus it's a pain taking it apart that far to put in the deciding you don't like it and replacing it with a diff again. You may still try it. And for the headlights that's a great idea. Maybe throw a couple red in the rear too so it's easier to see the orientation of the car in the dark. Happy modding
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  28. #28
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    Looks very cool, I have always liked the rustler, which is why I bought one recently. thinking of doing the wide mod like on my last rusty.


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    I made a bad mistake.

    If you look at this image, there should be a silver brace running right between the front shock towers.


    I left it out due to limited space between the cage and the shock towers. Rough landing from about 8' and the cage bent with the shock tower, right along the weak spot where that brace should've been mounted.. Since it's aluminum it wouldn't bend back without cracking, so I'm going to try reinforcing that area. Trying to decide if I should use an aluminum shock tower or back the plastic tower with a piece of carbon fiber, and then box-in that area around the tower.

    Regardless, this thing is a lot of fun and it's the first one to get grabbed off the shelf each evening, so I have to repair it and keep making it better.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh62685 View Post
    Looks very cool, I have always liked the rustler, which is why I bought one recently. thinking of doing the wide mod like on my last rusty.

    I always suggest that the Rustler should be the entry point to the RC world. It's cheap to run, cheap to upgrade and handles a wide variety of terrain. It's not as good off-road as a slash/stampede 4wd, or as good on-road as a touring car, but it'll work in most cases and always brings a smile.

    If I could only have one vehicle it would be a Rustler.
    Last edited by jmauld; 09-08-2017 at 10:53 AM.

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