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  1. #1
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    Metal spur gear for a slash 4x4?

    Journey to making an invincible slash. Should I get a metal spur gear and if can I just slap it in and call it a day? I like a fully tightened slipper clutch or close to so.

  2. #2
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post
    Journey to making an invincible slash. Should I get a metal spur gear and if can I just slap it in and call it a day? I like a fully tightened slipper clutch or close to so.
    Its all a personal preference, but I personally like running a hardened spur and a hardened pinion myself.

    If you are going to go for a metal spur look at the Robinson Racing Gen3 setup. I have been running that for the past couple years in my slash and it has never given me a problem. Even with my slipper close to completely locked.
    "Gone racing"

  3. #3
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    Yeah hardened steel spur is definitely the way to go if you plan on running high voltage. Make sure your pinion is harder than the spur tho or else it will shred it

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  4. #4
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post
    Journey to making an invincible slash. Should I get a metal spur gear and if can I just slap it in and call it a day? I like a fully tightened slipper clutch or close to so.
    What's up nutt!

    Unless you are a 2S only guy, YES, go with hardened parts. I don't use a plastic gear any longer and probably never will again. I don't know about you, but my Slash does not get down-grades. When I replace a part, ANY part, I think for a minute about what it's function is and if it (or me!) will benefit from spending a few more $$ (sometimes a lot more!). In the case of a metal spur, it's a no-brainer. They are not expensive and will outlast, and definitely out-perform, any plastic gear if maintained properly. I have lots of gears and on many you can barely even tell they have been used. Correct mesh is your friend!

    Everything is relative though. If you're a teenager with limited income, plastic may be your only option. I can appreciate that. Or if you love your Velineon, or whatever it may be, and don't plan on an upgrade for more power, I suppose it will suffice. I have wasted my money on stupid stuff, believe me. Hardened gears and a heavy-duty slipper are not one of them! I just don't see how you can go wrong there.

    Oh yeah - they do make a bit more noise but I like it! Keep your gear cover on and it will help with that a little.

    -Shack

  5. #5
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    I'll be the odd duck here. I've been beating my Slash with multiple motors(3500,2700,2400 and 2150kv) on 3s and occasional 4s. Running a Revo slipper 1/4 turn from locked and 2.8 Trenchers. I've yet to strip a plastic spur. My 54 tooth original came out a few months ago only because I wanted to drop to a 50 tooth....it is still perfectly usable. Currently running 20/50 with a 4074 2150kv.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post
    Journey to making an invincible slash. Should I get a metal spur gear and if can I just slap it in and call it a day? I like a fully tightened slipper clutch or close to so.
    yep, same, love to rip it hard, don't want it to break. Anyone have recommendations for suspension and transmissions? i saw their vid on the XO-1 suspension mod for the slash, but GOD those things are expensive. any alternatives? preferably an all-aluminum/alloy 2-piece set. (inner and outer with U-joints installed)

  7. #7
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    If you upgrade to metal. To me it means all that torque is being transferred to other parts in the diff. Id rather burn a 5$ plastic spur gear than start tearing apart diffs. Sometimes its made to be the weak spot and cheap to replace. But then again. Im a 2s and looking to just race


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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    I'll be the odd duck here. I've been beating my Slash with multiple motors(3500,2700,2400 and 2150kv) on 3s and occasional 4s. Running a Revo slipper 1/4 turn from locked and 2.8 Trenchers. I've yet to strip a plastic spur. My 54 tooth original came out a few months ago only because I wanted to drop to a 50 tooth....it is still perfectly usable. Currently running 20/50 with a 4074 2150kv.
    You are difinately not the odd duck Lol I have ran the plastic spur gear successfully since my first Slash 4x4 in January 2010. I may strip a spur gear every five years or so. A good friend of mine switched to a metal spur gear and now he breaks slipper shafts and differentials
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  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast braco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    You are difinately not the odd duck Lol I have ran the plastic spur gear successfully since my first Slash 4x4 in January 2010. I may strip a spur gear every five years or so. A good friend of mine switched to a metal spur gear and now he breaks slipper shafts and differentials
    Interesting. I purchased the Robinson Racing GEN3 setup, but was going to wait for the plastic one to melt. I've heard only good things about RR setup. How much power does it take to break diffs and slipper shafts?

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    the metal is unforgiving, and that is the problem..... lots of people just toss in the metal one, because they improperly setup the plastic stuff and /or have no idea what they are doing

    I run a quite modded setup, and run a plastic spur. my center shaft is a tekno and axles are x duty. I have xo1 spec diffs

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peeeenuuutt View Post
    Journey to making an invincible slash. Should I get a metal spur gear and if can I just slap it in and call it a day? I like a fully tightened slipper clutch or close to so.
    I run both; when on concrete (where I find myself the most right now) I run RR on RR spurs and pinions.
    My dirt rigs have and will always have Traxxas plastic spurs, pavement rigs, hardened steel of course.

    My thought process, somethings got to give, every drive train needs a weak link; this is no different the the car you drive to work everyday.
    When placing the weak link finding the least expensive replaceable part is also something to consider.
    When a pebble gets logged between an RR pinion/spur something else down the line is going to give, the more power the worse the damage; IMHO a $5 plastic spur beats the pants of a diff or axle.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    My basher has plastic gears (20/50) and my street rig has metal gears (25/31).

    I still have yet to run the 25/31 at full throttle so don't ask how fast it goes...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast braco's Avatar
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    I'm not really a type to upgrade a part which needs no upgrade. But, I live in the EU and it takes about 3 weeks for parts to come from the U.S. So if I break something, 3 weeks down time.

    I was convinced the Robinson Racing setup was the solution, and that's why I purchased it. Now I'm having second thoughts about installing it.

  14. #14
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    I admittedly had my first setup wrong when I mashed the gears together as close as I could and I stripped the plastic gear but after reading/watching videos found I needed to do the paper between the gears trick and I've done it 3 times now with the sprue gear dying before the battery... I upgraded to the tekno aluminum center drive shaft and steel front and backs. It is quite possible I've put something together wrong on it seeing as how I'm a newbie to all this but it seems to spin freely. I bought the Robinson gears and they will be here tomorrow to put in it. I'm running 3s of course with the velineon setup. I might need to look into the robinson parts for the diffs if they do make them.

  15. #15
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calebgilmore View Post
    I admittedly had my first setup wrong when I mashed the gears together as close as I could and I stripped the plastic gear but after reading/watching videos found I needed to do the paper between the gears trick and I've done it 3 times now with the sprue gear dying before the battery.
    I would be looking at the motor mount/slipper bearing/adapter. If it's still the stock plastic stuff there might be an issue there. Put a King Headz mount in with an aluminum bearing adapter and your issue likely goes away.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
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  16. #16
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    I did just change it to a metal one too and haven't run this setup yet. I was thinking there might have been a shot at that bearing not lining up well with the stock plastic part. I picked up the traxxas one on my trip to Memphis to get the robinson racing gears. I screwed up and got the 13 tooth gear instead of the 11. Speaking of that I'm guessing there is an adapter to run the larger pin gear since it's so much larger than the shaft on the velineon motor?

  17. #17
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calebgilmore View Post
    I did just change it to a metal one too and haven't run this setup yet. I was thinking there might have been a shot at that bearing not lining up well with the stock plastic part. I picked up the traxxas one on my trip to Memphis to get the robinson racing gears. I screwed up and got the 13 tooth gear instead of the 11. Speaking of that I'm guessing there is an adapter to run the larger pin gear since it's so much larger than the shaft on the velineon motor?
    Yeah there are adapters. 5mm to 1/8 reducer sleeve.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinso...rrp1200/p25015
    I will say I have used these and you are way better off just using a pinion for a 1/8 inch shaft. Just one more thing to have a problem with. If used properly they are fine, just make sure you let your loctite set up for 24 hrs before you run it and you got everything lined up and all snug. Little tip, fasteners that you are going to use alot, like grub screws for pinions, buy extras and loctite them. Throw them in your parts box after they dry so you have them ready to go when you need them. Kind of how traxxas parts that require loctite already have it applied from the factory when you buy them from the hobby shop. Robinson racing does make all their extra hard 32 pitch pinions in 1/8 bore.

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Yeah there are adapters. 5mm to 1/8 reducer sleeve.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinso...rrp1200/p25015
    I will say I have used these and you are way better off just using a pinion for a 1/8 inch shaft. Just one more thing to have a problem with. If used properly they are fine, just make sure you let your loctite set up for 24 hrs before you run it and you got everything lined up and all snug. Little tip, fasteners that you are going to use alot, like grub screws for pinions, buy extras and loctite them. Throw them in your parts box after they dry so you have them ready to go when you need them. Kind of how traxxas parts that require loctite already have it applied from the factory when you buy them from the hobby shop. Robinson racing does make all their extra hard 32 pitch pinions in 1/8 bore.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I must have missed that when I was looking. Of course I also thought stock was 13 instead of 11 for some reason hahahaha. I picked up the pinion gears on amazon after I made the mistake of getting the 13. If I decide to up the gear ratio I will have to look for the smaller diameter for sure.

  19. #19
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    I admit that I have a few 4wd with steel spur gear, but itís more for vanity since it makes a nice racket when you drive. But I havenít stripped any plastic spurs be it 32p or mod 1, 3s or 4s. Just practice setting the mesh by feel and itís all good.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    I admit that I have a few 4wd with steel spur gear, but it’s more for vanity since it makes a nice racket when you drive. But I haven’t stripped any plastic spurs be it 32p or mod 1, 3s or 4s. Just practice setting the mesh by feel and it’s all good.

    The last 2 plastic spur gears I put in I used the paper, pushed down on it til there was resistance but it didn't tear the paper, and tightened the motor down. I still stripped the tops of the gear off in about 10 min. I move the spur back and forth after and there is just the slightest play before it hits the pinion which I thought I read was good. I should have the correct hardened pinion gear thurs and I installed the metal plate where the clutch bearing sits so hopefully it has my issues resolved. Then I'll be changing differentials knowing my luck hahahahaha.

  21. #21
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calebgilmore View Post
    The last 2 plastic spur gears I put in I used the paper, pushed down on it til there was resistance but it didn't tear the paper, and tightened the motor down. I still stripped the tops of the gear off in about 10 min. I move the spur back and forth after and there is just the slightest play before it hits the pinion which I thought I read was good. I should have the correct hardened pinion gear thurs and I installed the metal plate where the clutch bearing sits so hopefully it has my issues resolved. Then I'll be changing differentials knowing my luck hahahahaha.
    Not trying to be nitpicky, but are you rechecking the mesh after you tighten your motor mount bolts?

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Not trying to be nitpicky, but are you rechecking the mesh after you tighten your motor mount bolts?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    I put the paper in and pushed it back and forth several times as I was paranoid about stripping another one.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by calebgilmore View Post
    The last 2 plastic spur gears I put in I used the paper, pushed down on it til there was resistance but it didn't tear the paper, and tightened the motor down. I still stripped the tops of the gear off in about 10 min. I move the spur back and forth after and there is just the slightest play before it hits the pinion which I thought I read was good. I should have the correct hardened pinion gear thurs and I installed the metal plate where the clutch bearing sits so hopefully it has my issues resolved. Then I'll be changing differentials knowing my luck hahahahaha.
    Honestly I was never a fan of the paper method, there is some room for error since there is always a small amount of difference in alignment between the spur and pinion, when you remove the paper there is sometimes just enough wiggle to throw off the alignment.

    Wha I do is I tighten the motor plate bolt to the point juuuuust short of the plate no longer moveable with a lot of finger force and Make sure there is the tiniest amount of play at the tightest point, and tighten from there, and do one last check with the plate bolt tightened down all the way. That generally gives me a lot tighter mesh than using paper without binding.

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