Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 126
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278

    Aqualungs New Stampede 4x4 VXL Build

    Just ordered a Stampede 4x4 VXL last night on eBay:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/132277715060

    Pretty excited and my first RC for off-road. I have a couple helicopters. Was going for a slash at first, but I wanted something that would go off-road more than on road. After watching videos the ability to do flips, run in snow, my backyard, wooded trails, etc. I would enjoy this more than pavement/dirt racing.

    So a 189$ 2wd brushed Slash led to this..
    Shopping for chargers that do lipo/nimh. I think I may start with two Nimh batteries. I can be absent minded. So for starters that might be a safer bet. Please feel free to make any helpful suggestions. I set alarms to remember things.

    Upgrades I plan on doing almost immediately:

    -Body lowering kit

    -Proline Tires for off-road(maybe trenches, so I can use and wear out the stock tires when I play on the pavement.

    -Aluminum shock caps?

    Thanks for all the help in Advance.

    Marty


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    427
    Congrats on the purchase...

    Your running brushless, forget using Ni-MH batteries, go straight for LIPOs, more power and much better run times, and as for a charger, are you planning to sticking with traxxas brand batteries and use their matching chargers or going aftermarket, i suggest aftermarket for both.

    Charger - http://hitecrcd.com/products/charger...harger/product

    Batteries - http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...tegory&path=67

    Aluminum shock caps, proline trenchers tire/wheels set, shoe goo/drywall tape the inside of the body to reinforce the lexan body for longevity with hard plastic washers at the post holes, MIP x-duty axles, the traxxas fan for the ESC to keep the temps in check and going with the aluminum bearing adapter for the slipper clutch.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    Congrats on the purchase...

    Your running brushless, forget using Ni-MH batteries, go straight for LIPOs, more power and much better run times, and as for a charger, are you planning to sticking with traxxas brand batteries and use their matching chargers or going aftermarket, i suggest aftermarket for both.

    Charger - http://hitecrcd.com/products/charger...harger/product

    Batteries - http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...tegory&path=67

    Aluminum shock caps, proline trenchers tire/wheels set, shoe goo/drywall tape the inside of the body to reinforce the lexan body for longevity with hard plastic washers at the post holes, MIP x-duty axles, the traxxas fan for the ESC to keep the temps in check and going with the aluminum bearing adapter for the slipper clutch.
    Thank you. I take it you need the 2938 adapters to connect the SMC batteries to the Stampede?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    I will probably go aftermarket encase I buy another brand that can't be mentioned here. I want to build a crawler.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    427
    The use of adapters is not recommended, if you can order the aftermarket battery with the type of connector that matches the ESC, its better... or you can cut and solder on your own matching connectors, but that of course will void the warranty of the battery because it will be considered modified.

    Nothing wrong with using the traxxas batteries if you want to keep the same connectors w/o having to change them over, just make sure you get the hardcase version and get the traxxas charger as well to keep everything matched.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278

    Aqualungs New Stampede 4x4 VXL Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    The use of adapters is not recommended, if you can order the aftermarket battery with the type of connector that matches the ESC, its better... or you can cut and solder on your own matching connectors, but that of course will void the warranty of the battery because it will be considered modified.

    Nothing wrong with using the traxxas batteries if you want to keep the same connectors w/o having to change them over, just make sure you get the hardcase version and get the traxxas charger as well to keep everything matched.
    I like what I hear and see about SMC. I can order them with connectors.

    I wanted to get a decent starter charger at first and save for a good one. That way I'd have a backup/travel charger. What about SMC's H100?

    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=446


    Thanks again!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Welcome to the hobby, Trx family and addiction! Lol. Here is my list of recommended upgrades. Just skip the first paragraph since its a vxl and already brushless. https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?p=6406101
    Here is my charger setup. https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?p=6403694
    Heres 2 threads about lipos. https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?p=6404088
    Happy bashing, enjoy it!

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 08-27-2017 at 12:49 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    I like what I hear and see about SMC. I can order them with connectors.

    I wanted to get a decent starter charger at first and save for a good one. That way I'd have a backup/travel charger. What about SMC's H100?

    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=446


    Thanks again!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Im not familiar with SMC's chargers, googled for reviews, none can be found for that peticular one, but it should be a good choice for the price though, that company sells quality premium products... they do charge $12 for shipping on their lipos, not sure about their other items.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278

    Aqualungs New Stampede 4x4 VXL Build

    I guess I'll be the guinea Pig and post my thought on the SMC charger. I ordered that and 2 - 2c 7200 mah 90c 7.4 volt batteries with Traxxas connections


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-27-2017 at 02:59 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    That is a good inexpensive price for a charger and I dont deny SMC products are good quality, but you generally get what you pay for. I did extensive research before my first charger purchase and going with the Hitec has been a choice I will never regret. I cation you to that charger it shows a max of 8a for 3s(I dont know why it shows those specs when it says its a 10a charger though). So the biggest 3s lipo id recommend is 8000mah or lower for lots of reasons, but mainly because batt manufacturer suggested charge rating of 1c for a 8000mah batt is 8amps. We can discuss more in depth if wanted but id encourage to read through lipo threads first. Obviously go with ones that are in your price range and I have no experience with smc chargers, so just look at reviews and do your research. I can say for up to 8amp the Trx charger is decent and really user friendly. Kinda like Iphone. But if you want a model with more options(like android) then look at other chargers. Lol! I dunno i may have just hurt my case there knowing the amount of die hard i-product ppl there are in this world. Just being funny dont be haten on pleeeease Lmbo!

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 08-27-2017 at 03:19 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    That is a good inexpensive price for a charger and I dont deny SMC products are good quality, but you generally get what you pay for. I did extensive research before my first charger purchase and going with the Hitec has been a choice I will never regret. I cation you to that charger it shows a max of 8a for 3s(I dont know why it shows those specs when it says its a 10a charger though). So the biggest 3s lipo id recommend is 8000mah or lower for lots of reasons, but mainly because batt manufacturer suggested charge rating of 1c for a 8000mah batt is 8amps. We can discuss more in depth if wanted but id encourage to read through lipo threads first. Obviously go with ones that are in your price range and I have no experience with smc chargers, so just look at reviews and do your research. I can say for up to 8amp the Trx charger is decent and really user friendly. Kinda like Iphone. But if you want a model with more options(like android) then look at other chargers. Lol! I dunno i may have just hurt my case there knowing the amount of die hard i-product ppl there are in this world. Just being funny dont be haten on pleeeease Lmbo!

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Good to know. I was looking at Hitec also. They are the same price. I figured they have good batteries, charger must be good too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    427
    Briber... yes the SMC charger says 10a, but you have to remember a thing called the POWER law, the more cells you charge, ie, increased voltage, the less current you have available to use.

    Example...
    10a(100w)
    2s(7.4v/8.4v full) - 100w / 8.4v = 11.9a (but remember you only have 10a available)
    3s(11.1v/12.6v full) - 100w / 12.6v = 7.9a (up to 7900mah @ 1c)
    4s(14.8v/16.8v full) - 100w / 16.8v = 5.9a (up to 5900mah @ 1c)
    5s(18.5v/21.0v full) - 100w / 21.0v = 4.7a (up to 4700mah @ 1c)
    6s(22.2v/25.2v full) - 100w / 25.2v = 3.9a (up to 3900mah @ 1c)

    Get it? Got it? Good

    EDIT - POWER LAW = watts / voltage x current
    Last edited by Bige4u; 08-27-2017 at 09:58 PM.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    Briber... yes the SMC charger says 10a, but you have to remember a thing called the POWER law, the more cells you charge, ie, increased voltage, the less current you have available to use.

    Example...
    10a(100w)
    2s(7.4v/8.4v full) - 100w / 8.4v = 11.9a (but remember you only have 10a available)
    3s(11.1v/12.6v full) - 100w / 12.6v = 7.9a (up to 7900mah @ 1c)
    4s(14.8v/16.8v full) - 100w / 16.8v = 5.9a (up to 5900mah @ 1c)
    5s(18.5v/21.0v full) - 100w / 21.0v = 4.7a (up to 4700mah @ 1c)
    6s(22.2v/25.2v full) - 100w / 25.2v = 3.9a (up to 3900mah @ 1c)

    Get it? Got it? Good

    EDIT - POWER LAW = watts / voltage x current
    So this charger would be ok ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    Briber... yes the SMC charger says 10a, but you have to remember a thing called the POWER law, the more cells you charge, ie, increased voltage, the less current you have available to use.

    Example...
    10a(100w)
    2s(7.4v/8.4v full) - 100w / 8.4v = 11.9a (but remember you only have 10a available)
    3s(11.1v/12.6v full) - 100w / 12.6v = 7.9a (up to 7900mah @ 1c)
    4s(14.8v/16.8v full) - 100w / 16.8v = 5.9a (up to 5900mah @ 1c)
    5s(18.5v/21.0v full) - 100w / 21.0v = 4.7a (up to 4700mah @ 1c)
    6s(22.2v/25.2v full) - 100w / 25.2v = 3.9a (up to 3900mah @ 1c)

    Get it? Got it? Good

    EDIT - POWER LAW = watts / voltage x current
    Got it.
    But the Hitec x2 is 200w on dc. So with converter or charging on car batt the power/current is there, yes?
    That with wifi module and dc charging capabilities = better charger....

    Yes smc charger is just fine, its what ever fits in your budget. Its 45 for SMC or 100 for x2 and 130 for x2 pro.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 08-28-2017 at 12:49 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    427
    Yes... the SMC charger will be just fine.

    Just remember the total voltage(#s) and MAH rating of the lipo, is what determines the charge amount and time at 1c or less according to the charger you use, power(watts) wise.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Thanks guys. I've been reading up on lipos and the links you guys provided to learn more. Picking up some lipo bags off of eBay.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/252814010334

    Couple more questions about upgrade parts. I am going to order the shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter, and esc fan right away. Should I also upgrade to 17mm hub adapters now, or when I get the Proline trenchers?

    Last of all is lowering the body to close up the gap a good upgrade. I imagine it would lower the center of gravity a little bit. Is this the right kit? I like the aluminum twist caps!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/361638375035

    Or this one?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/401314678606



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Thanks guys. I've been reading up on lipos and the links you guys provided to learn more. Picking up some lipo bags off of eBay.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/252814010334

    Couple more questions about upgrade parts. I am going to order the shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter, and esc fan right away. Should I also upgrade to 17mm hub adapters now, or when I get the Proline trenchers?

    Last of all is lowering the body to close up the gap a good upgrade. I imagine it would lower the center of gravity a little bit. Is this the right kit? I like the aluminum twist caps!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/361638375035

    Or this one?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/401314678606



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Lowering body really wont lower center of gravity since body weighs next to nothing. To lower center of gravity the chassis needs to be lowered. I wouldnt do 17mm hexs & wheels until after drive shafts are upgraded. The upgraded wheels will add more stress to drive shafts.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Lowering body really wont lower center of gravity since body weighs next to nothing. To lower center of gravity the chassis needs to be lowered. I wouldnt do 17mm hexs & wheels until after drive shafts are upgraded. The upgraded wheels will add more stress to drive shafts.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    I definitely wanted to keep the ground clearance and not lower the chassis, I saw someone mention a lowering kit to cover the gap.

    Will do in the axles and wheels. I'll be waiting a little while to do that. I spent enough lol!

    I'll just pick up these items and call it a day:
    -aluminum shock caps
    -6893x aluminum bearing adapter





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Thanks guys. I've been reading up on lipos and the links you guys provided to learn more. Picking up some lipo bags off of eBay.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/252814010334

    Couple more questions about upgrade parts. I am going to order the shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter, and esc fan right away. Should I also upgrade to 17mm hub adapters now, or when I get the Proline trenchers?

    Last of all is lowering the body to close up the gap a good upgrade. I imagine it would lower the center of gravity a little bit. Is this the right kit? I like the aluminum twist caps!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/361638375035

    Or this one?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/401314678606



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



    Why buy the whole kit to lower the body. Just take the stock posts off and run screws up from underneath. If you look in your second link, All you need are the caps for 6 bucks.

    This is how far that would lower your stock body.



    One thing about the posts and I don't see how the new mounts in your links would make a difference. The caps do not fit on the rear of the stock body without a modification, cutting part of the body out. It just wont fit!
    Last edited by lektro; 08-28-2017 at 09:54 AM.
    Choose Life !!!

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post



    Why buy the whole kit to lower the body. Just take the stock posts off and run screws up from underneath. If you look in your second link, All you need are the caps for 6 bucks.

    This is how far that would lower your stock body.

    Nice looks good. She. You say run the screws underneath, do I need to predrill or are the holes open from underneath. I saw so threads on this. I will look More into it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  21. #21
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Yes the posts that are there now have screws in them. You need to use a screw that fits the cap. In my tool set i have reamers. stick it in the hole and ream. lol Make them just a tad larger. Then force the screw in. It will be tight as a tick.

    A must have tool for the RC guy.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-28-2017 at 10:27 AM.
    Choose Life !!!

  22. #22
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    You can also take the stock posts off and these are a direct fit. If you want to use clips.
    Choose Life !!!

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    I was looking into the twist caps, instead of clips


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #24
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    I was looking into the twist caps, instead of clips


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes sir I know. I was just showing you these as an option... On my 53 Chevy body, the caps work great. Like I said earlier they dont fit the stock body unless you cut it or find some smaller diameter caps.
    Last edited by lektro; 08-28-2017 at 01:42 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Agreed, i didnt buy whole kit either just caps, i cut nipple off that pin goes through, drilled a hole and set stud. If you use the stock holes in mount bracket to attach posts the caps will fit in stock body holes(see pic of blue truck, i didnt move posts and used stock body holes). But its hard to get off sometimes.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  26. #26
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    I tried putting the caps on with the stock body and can't get them even close to going on. Maybe I should try again Briber. I am coming very close to cutting on the stock body as this will be my do all body. I am nearly done with my minor upgrades and will be ready to get this thing dirty real soon. I have the Tekno center drive shaft but will wait for the stock one to break first. I have o rings on shaft mounts to where it has no back and forth play. Maybe it will last longer this way. Not looking forward to paying close to $150 for front and rear drive shafts either. BUT I "will" see how long the stocker's last.
    Choose Life !!!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    I tried putting the caps on with the stock body and can't get them even close to going on. Maybe I should try again Briber. I am coming very close to cutting on the stock body as this will be my do all body. I am nearly done with my minor upgrades and will be ready to get this thing dirty real soon. I have the Tekno center drive shaft but will wait for the stock one to break first. I have o rings on shaft mounts to where it has no back and forth play. Maybe it will last longer this way. Not looking forward to paying close to $150 for front and rear drive shafts either. BUT I "will" see how long the stocker's last.
    Hmmmm Ive done it on 3 different p4des ive never made new holes in body or moved post from original mount bracket holes. Im getting ready to get 2 new bodies for my pedes so ill see whats up. That is a proline body maybe holes are slightly more narrow. But my other body is the stock pro-graphics body. I dunno smh on that one. Mip xduty drives should run you about 100.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  28. #28
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Hmmmm Ive done it on 3 different p4des ive never made new holes in body or moved post from original mount bracket holes. Im getting ready to get 2 new bodies for my pedes so ill see whats up. That is a proline body maybe holes are slightly more narrow. But my other body is the stock pro-graphics body. I dunno smh on that one. Mip xduty drives should run you about 100.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Yeah my 53 Chevy body has plenty of room for the caps. All i did was run screws up through the body mount arms, so they are in the same place. If you look at the last pic in post 19 you can see why. Hmmmmm is right After taking another look I could move the screws in about a 1/4 in and make new holes in the body. Better than cutting on it. then i will re-enforce the existing holes. hmmmm good idea!
    Last edited by lektro; 08-28-2017 at 04:12 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Yeah my 53 Chevy body has plenty of room for the caps. All i did was run screws up through the body mount arms, so they are in the same place. If you look at the last pic in post 19 you can see why. Hmmmmm is right After taking another look I could move the screws in about a 1/4 in and make new holes in the body. Better than cutting on it. then i will re-enforce the existing holes. hmmmm good idea!
    You got this! Sounds like a plan. Yea reinforcing it adds strength so shouldnt have any issues with old holes.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Cool suggestions guys. Is there a Pro-Line kit that allows you to lower the body and use the twist caps?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  31. #31
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Cool suggestions guys. Is there a Pro-Line kit that allows you to lower the body and use the twist caps?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You have 2 links in post 16 but it only lowers and raise's the body. Don' think it has adjustments to move them any other way.
    Choose Life !!!

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    You have 2 links in post 16 but it only lowers and raise's the body. Don' think it has adjustments to move them any other way.
    Right. Those were the only 2 I found that might work. I'll see when the RC gets here. Be easier to look at what I'm dealing with


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Here's a silly question. Everyone does shock caps, but the GTR shocks are only 27$ more. Are the GTRs Amy better than the stock shocks?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278

    Aqualungs New Stampede 4x4 VXL Build

    This is the best explanation


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,280

    Aqualungs New Stampede 4x4 VXL Build


    I got the kit because I got my pede and they were well worn. The caps don't come close to fitting the stock body. This is as low as I can get mine. I got the slash kit because it's lower. Needed new holes up front. I'm good with it

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post

    I got the kit because I got my pede and they were well worn. The caps don't come close to fitting the stock body. This is as low as I can get mine. I got the slash kit because it's lower. Needed new holes up front. I'm good with it
    That looks great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,280
    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    That looks great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks. I try. The bodies are disposable/consumable. Treat them as such.

  38. #38
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Thanks. I try. The bodies are disposable/consumable. Treat them as such.
    Hey Grip< I have seen your truck numerous times. This is the first time I noticed the extra set of holes. It is just a body and definitely disposable. I will find a way to make my stock body fit. I will also be using the Chevy body for the same thing. Smashing and bashing. Of course, I will wear out the stocker first. Can you mail me one of those bananas please
    Last edited by lektro; 08-29-2017 at 03:45 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    4,280
    Yeah I got the kit after the body. It's best now anyways. Careful I have your address

  40. #40
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach/ South USA !
    Posts
    1,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Yeah I got the kit after the body. It's best now anyways. Careful I have your address
    LOL I guess it should be ripe by the time it gets here ya think!
    Choose Life !!!

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •