Results 1 to 28 of 28
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26

    Order in 4 Traxxas Slash 4x4 LCG Model# 68086-24

    Hi Everyone

    I just put my order in for a new Traxxas 4x4 LCG Model# 68086-24 and this will be my 1st RC car.

    I will be running this car on pavement and off road...

    I already ordered my battery charger the PROTEK PRODIGY 625 DUO, heard it was an awesome Charger!

    Now i still need to order a Battery and need some assistance here... Should I order a 2S or 3S Lipo? and recommend mAh?

    Then i plan on doing some upgrades over the next few months. Not sure where to here, so if you have any suggesting please recommend.

    PS i would prefer to purchase higher end parts that will last for a while.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Reserve........

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    220
    Congrats! I was torn on Slash vs Stampede, but went Stampede. They're similar in ways. I'm gonna tag along!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    79
    I'd start with 2S. Going 3S or higher will require changes and ideally upgrades as well. I went with 6000mAh packs. C rating is slightly more important, but what yyou'd need als depends on the capacity of the pack. 40+ tends to be okay, especially on larger packs.

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    I was too. They told me the Stampede rolls over a lot, thats why i went with the Slash.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    I was too. They told me the Stampede rolls over a lot, thats why i went with the Slash.
    It actually isn't that bad, my brother and I thought the same, but it whips around curves pretty good. My 3 wiener dogs love to chase it. Maybe it's the TSM helping. The Slash will definitively handle it better. I wanted more ground clearance and It was Monster the Slash or get the Stampede. Lol. Either way you can turn them into each other.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    220

    Order in 4 Traxxas Slash 4x4 LCG Model# 68086-24

    Also I'm running 2s 7200 90c battery. The extra weight is actually keeping the front end down and probably helping keep all a 4 tires down lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Aqualungs; 09-03-2017 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Typo

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier spunkybob's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    600
    Once you go 3s you will wonder why you ever brought 2s lipos.

    IMHO buy MIP drive shafts (about $100) and 3s lipos and you will thank me later :-)

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,006
    Quote Originally Posted by spunkybob View Post
    Once you go 3s you will wonder why you ever brought 2s lipos.

    IMHO buy MIP drive shafts (about $100) and 3s lipos and you will thank me later :-)

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    +1

    If you get into the hobby, you will need these ^ eventually so might as well save yourself in the long run.
    "Gone racing"

  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    What 3s lipo battery do you recommend plus is the MIP the best drive shaft you recommend?

    Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    I would like to do something like this

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    I would like to do something like this
    Going all aluminum surely looks nice and all that. But one crash and it's no longer that much fun when it's all bent out of shape. Better keep plenty of plastic around to absorb most of the forces involved in a crash. Unless you want a shelf queen. But then you won't need lipos either

  13. #13
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    What parts would you recommend to be aluminum?

  14. #14
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Do i want the MIP with Keyed Axles?

  15. #15
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    What parts would you recommend to be aluminum?
    From what I've researched so far the bearing adapter for the slipper bearing, shock caps or shocks, and maybe the motor mount.
    The plastic/polymers can give and go back to their original shape, whereas the aluminum parts can bend and it would be difficult to bend them back correctly.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    RC Racer SlashServices's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    169
    If you're gonna do aluminum anything, do Aluminum steering blocks and caster blocks, but other than that, go with rpm a arms, and leave the stock steel links. The anadiozed aluminum links are cool and all but weaker. Also go with an rpm front shock tower.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kville
    Posts
    1,127
    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    Do i want the MIP with Keyed Axles?
    YES! Part#s 10130 & 10132

    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    What parts would you recommend to be aluminum?
    Hey Networx,

    I have a decent amount of aluminum and here is my experience with it. If you're building a speedster, use aluminum pretty-much wherever you see fit. I have not broken, or even bent, any aluminum piece... yet... and I have flipped them more than once! If you're building a basher, that's another story altogether. First and foremost, you do not want aluminum A-arms. They will bend/deform with the quickness! This will happen just from regular driving/flipping/minor crashes and such... in other words, bashing!

    Some of the basic aluminum parts on my bashers are:

    Front Castor blocks (C-Hubs) - 6832X (blue) 6832R (Red)
    Front Steering blocks - 6837X (blue) 6837R (Red)
    Rear Carriers - 1952X
    Front Shock tower - 6839X
    Rear Shock tower - 6838X

    GTR Shock Spring Retainers - RVO156C06

    Atomik Body Mount w/ Post, Blue - Replaces Traxxas Part 6815R - F & R

    I added this body mount on front and rear. It has held up very well considering how many times the rig has rolled! It is made from hardened 6061 billet aluminum and is a tough piece. It has alloy post as well but I use the stock plastic ones when bashing to provide an "impact buffer" to the body mount/shock tower assembly. It is also easy to adjust post length/body height with plastic spacers. If the truck rolls or comes down hard on the roof, the plastic posts will bend or give enough to prevent damage... at least they have so far. Now I have bent one of these mounts, barely, but it was from a pretty hard impact so I don't blame the part. Nothing the vice couldn't fix though.

    Atomik Body Mount w/ Post, Blue - Replaces Traxxas Part 6815R - F & R

    I also have aluminum diff housings (F & R) and I like them. I use only 1/8th-scale motors (a few 5th-scale as well) and I can realize the benefits of the aluminum housing. With a stock motor, there is no real need for this upgrade, although you do still get the strength benefit that aluminum has over plastic. That is good enough reason for me plus I like the looks of it!

    I also use two other aluminum parts in the rear. The HR bulkhead and the Hinge Pin Brace and Skid Plate. I use the stock plastic piece up front.

    I use an aluminum bellcrank (servo saver) as well. I have both HR and STRC units and I recommend the STRC. They both need a bit of minor custom work if you want to remove some play/slop in the steering.

    That's about it. Looks like a beautiful day outside so I'm heading out to see what I can break!

    -Shack

    Front clip -

    Last edited by shack351; 09-04-2017 at 03:42 PM.

  18. #18
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Thank you very much for the info!

  19. #19
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Do you have anymore pictures?

  20. #20
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kville
    Posts
    1,127
    Here's a couple more of my V1-Speedster.

    -Shack








    Motor plate - forgot to mention this earlier. Both of these are good upgrades. I have several of each.


  21. #21
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Very nice!

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    168
    hey shack which motor plate do you prefer?And that diff and setup above is too pretty to see run time.

  23. #23
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kville
    Posts
    1,127
    Quote Originally Posted by networx2002 View Post
    Very nice!
    Thanks. Definitely spent some time on her but she's worth it!


    Quote Originally Posted by js1badsti View Post
    hey shack which motor plate do you prefer?And that diff and setup above is too pretty to see run time.
    The mounts are both high-quality, include the larger bearing and fitment is excellent. I would probably say the HR ONLY because the blue anodizing better matches all the other blue pieces that I've acquired. Either one will make you happy. The HR piece is about 4-5 grams heavier as well. *Just got an STRC piece and it is HEAVY! Will report on that very soon.




    It's all built knowing that it can be demolished within a few seconds! I've been having ESC issues and just spent about 30 minutes tonight driving the rig around in a huge church parking lot. It isn't big enough for the 150+mph speed runs the rig was built for but I can easily hit 100. The best part is that the lot is new, smooth asphalt that is almost perfectly flat and has LOTS of open space for getting various settings tweaked. Nothing stays perfect forever... got lots more bodies and parts though!

    -Shack








  24. #24
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    ordered

    STRC ST7460R Aluminum Motor Mount Red for Traxxas Slash 4x4 LCG / Rally
    STRC ST6839R Aluminum HD Front Shock Tower Traxxas Slash 4x4
    STRC ST7490R Aluminum Heatsink Finned Motor Plate Traxxas Slash 4x4 / Rally
    STRC ST6830R Aluminum HD Rear Shock Tower Traxxas Slash 4x4
    STRC ST6837R Aluminum Steering Knuckles Traxxas Slash 4x4
    STRC ST1952R Aluminum Rear Hub Carriers 1/10 Traxxas Slash 4x4
    NEW STRC CNC Machined Aluminum Front C-Hubs Red Slash 4X4 ST6832R
    Hot Racing Traxxas 1/10 Summit Slayer Aluminum Spring Retainers RVO156C08
    COMBO Traxxas Slash 4x4 3340 Cooling Fan + Motor HeatSink Dual Twin Fan RED
    ST Racing ST3767R Aluminum Upper Shock Caps (4) Red: 1/10 Slash 4x4
    RPM 80702 Front/Rear A-Arms Black Slash/Stampede 4x4 Black

  25. #25
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kville
    Posts
    1,127
    Nice parts list brother! You'll enjoy swapping out all those pieces! Out of all that really good STRC stuff, the one thing that stands out as questionable is the ST7460R. It uses the stock size bearing whereas the KHZ and HR pieces have the bad boy, over-sized 10x19x5mm bearing pre-installed. That bearing is much stronger than the stock support bearing (10x15x4mm).

    With that said, the mount is also a beast though! It is over FIFTEEN grams heavier than its KHZ counterpart and 10g heavier than the HR! It is a solid (it has less reliefs), dense aluminum piece that is nice to see in an RC car part. I am going to modify mine to accept the over-sized bearing before I ever even install it. Once modified, I can see it being my favorite new motor mount! If you don't already have one, look for a local machine shop that can do the machining for you. It is a simple mod, you just need the right tools to do it. Get a nice ceramic bearing no matter if you use the stock size or opt for the more bullet-proof over-sized bearing.

    -Shack







  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Thanks for the info. I was just trying to much the color with the same part maker. Ill do some research to see if i can get it modified.

    Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

  27. #27
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kville
    Posts
    1,127
    NP. As for wanting the parts to match, I COMPLETELY understand. I like that look myself. An aesthetically well-balanced rig is definitely nice to look at while you're ripping up the ground! Let me say something else. The mount you have coming, it most definitely is fine to use the way it is and perhaps I should not have been critical of the bearing size. I have a tendency to want/expect what I think are the best parts that I can get for my rigs but just want everybody else to get the most bang for their buck as well. Can't wait to see the finished product!

    -Shack

  28. #28
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    26
    Got most of my parts today, but my slash wont be here till Monday.

    Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •