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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Beginner here and have some questions

    Hi guys.

    I just bought my first rc-car (stampede 4x4 brushless vxl tsm) Previosly I have flown the traxxas aton drone and I figured that I would expand my hobby to the cars.

    As a beginner with no previous experience what would you suggest I focus on? I would like to be able to service and upgrade the stampede to handle 3s batteries some day and be able to change broken parts for myself.

    I have not done anything to the car yet except taken it out for a spin 3 times. From what I understand there needs to be some serious updgrading done before plugging in 3s batteries.

    In the meantime I'm looking for another NIMH battery that I could use before I have enough knowledge and experience to do any upgrades. What battery would be me most bang for my bucks (running the car in stock mode)

    Any help would be really appriciated

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum.

    Most of the time I follow "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Looking at the advantage of Lipo batteries compared to NiMH, I would consider putting my money into a Lipo. The stock Pede can handle a 3S battery fine, but you have to keep a close eye on temperatures of both motor and ESC.

    Of course you can upgrade before you put a more powerful ESC/motor combo in it, but it's not necessary.
    Nobody is born with experience

  3. #3
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    Sorry for the noob questions but what would be the best way to keep an eye on the temperatures?
    The Stampede is plenty powerful straight out of the box but it's so fun to drive and I feel the need to learn more and more

    I will take your advice and wait untill something need fixing before "upgrading" any parts.

    If I do decide to buy another Nimh battery or two would it be safe to empty all the batteries in one session or is there any chance of overheating?

    Thanks in advance!!

  4. #4
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Once you see it start to lose power you should switch batteries. Never run a nimh battery till it is dead. You can harm the battery.

    You can buy a temp gun to keep tabs on the heat issues. You can get them fairly cheap, unless you want one you know is accurate. You will surely have heat issues running three straight packs back to back.

    I would buy the ESC fan for sure and don't go full throttle the whole time. I am not sure if the P4de can handle a bit more heat but rule of thumb is 160 degrees f. on the rustler VXL. Or you can do the finger method. Hold it on the motor. if you can't keep it there for five seconds. you are most likely overheating. don't take the rule of thumb thing to seriously. Get a temp gun. Best bet!
    https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...rared+temp+gun
    Get the ESC fan.https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-3340-...+esc+fan&psc=1 snaps on top of esc and plug is on the side of it..
    There is one upgrade you might want to do right away. On the inside of the slipper clutch. there is a bearing with a plastic piece. it has a tendency to melt. they have a fix for that which uses aluminum not plastic Very easy to replace. I would do that as soon as possible.

    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Blue-...um+adapter+kit
    When you go lipo you will want to go to mip x duty drive shafts. Especially in the rear.
    Last edited by lektro; 09-08-2017 at 05:29 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    Since you already have the brushless setup... i would suggest switching over to LIPO battery, getting another NiMH battery would be a waste of money, but that also means, you need a good LIPO/NiMH/LiFe/Li-ioN/Pb single or dual battery charger, depending on your needs.

    But if your truely sticking with NiMH batteries for now...

    link - https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-2961X.../dp/B00TZ12TWM
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys for all the help/recommendations

    Lipo batteries seems the way to go but I'm really worried about damaging my car!! Since I'm a beginner in rc do you think I would be able to do the recommended changes/upgdrades myself?? I have no previous experience in this field.

    Would these actions be enough for me to run a lipo battery??

    1. Changing the pinion/spur to 17-T / 54-T
    2. Getting the temp gun to monitor heat
    3. Buy an esc fan
    4. Replace the plastic bearing with an aluminum one.

    As I already own 2 x 20C 5000mah batteries for the aton would be great not to waste money on nimh batteries since I can use this money to upgrade the stampede instead. What do you guys think?

  7. #7
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Sounds like a plan to me. Traxxas does recommend at least 25c though. I am not sure the 20c would be safe to use or not.
    Choose Life !!!

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    The 20c batteries are too small, you will want at least 30c on up for vehicles for they are heavier and running on the ground, theres alot more resistance and stress to the driveline, so just keep them for the aton.

    As for the running with a 17t pinion, dont, thats for speed runs only, not to be used on a continous basis, you will keep running into thermal shutdown if you did, so keep the 11t pinion and the 54t spur that came with it, you'll be glad you did.

    Since your still learning, there are three modes built into the ESC...

    Profile #1 (Sport Mode): 100% Forward, 100% Brakes, 100% Reverse

    Profile #2 (Race Mode): 100% Forward, 100% Brakes, No Reverse

    Profile #3 (Training Mode): 50% Forward, 100% Brakes, 50% Reverse

    Just set it for profile#3, that way it will be easier on the truck and you till your comfortable to move forward at faster speeds.

    Definately get a temp gun, the esc fan and the aluminum bearing adapter for the clutch.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    Since you already have the brushless setup... i would suggest switching over to LIPO battery, getting another NiMH battery would be a waste of money, but that also means, you need a good LIPO/NiMH/LiFe/Li-ioN/Pb single or dual battery charger, depending on your needs.

    But if your truely sticking with NiMH batteries for now...

    link - https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-2961X.../dp/B00TZ12TWM
    Could i run this battery with the stock setup/charger??

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    The traxxas chargers charge NiMH and LIPO batteries... which charger do you have?
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    opethrapture, welcome to the hobby.

    NiMH is ancient technology. LiPo is superior in every way.
    A NiMH pack supplied to keep costs down. This is a good way to introduce someone to RC for less money and eventually get them addicted - like me.

    If your charger works with LiPo then all you need are the packs themselves. I recommend SMC.
    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=247

    Once you go LiPo you'll never use a NiMH pack again.
    Obstacle Magnet

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    The traxxas chargers charge NiMH and LIPO batteries... which charger do you have?
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/2975

    and

    The traxxas 2-3 cell Lipo balance charger

    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Once you see it start to lose power you should switch batteries. Never run a nimh battery till it is dead. You can harm the battery.

    You can buy a temp gun to keep tabs on the heat issues. You can get them fairly cheap, unless you want one you know is accurate. You will surely have heat issues running three straight packs back to back.

    I would buy the ESC fan for sure and don't go full throttle the whole time. I am not sure if the P4de can handle a bit more heat but rule of thumb is 160 degrees f. on the rustler VXL. Or you can do the finger method. Hold it on the motor. if you can't keep it there for five seconds. you are most likely overheating. don't take the rule of thumb thing to seriously. Get a temp gun. Best bet!
    https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...rared+temp+gun
    Get the ESC fan.https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-3340-...+esc+fan&psc=1 snaps on top of esc and plug is on the side of it..
    There is one upgrade you might want to do right away. On the inside of the slipper clutch. there is a bearing with a plastic piece. it has a tendency to melt. they have a fix for that which uses aluminum not plastic Very easy to replace. I would do that as soon as possible.

    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Blue-...um+adapter+kit
    When you go lipo you will want to go to mip x duty drive shafts. Especially in the rear.
    I'm going to order the cooling fan and shaft bearing adapters. Do I need 4 of the adapters??

    Do you have a link to the mip x duty drive shafts you recommended?

    Are these all things I could updrade/fix myself?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    The 20c batteries are too small, you will want at least 30c on up for vehicles for they are heavier and running on the ground, theres alot more resistance and stress to the driveline, so just keep them for the aton.

    As for the running with a 17t pinion, dont, thats for speed runs only, not to be used on a continous basis, you will keep running into thermal shutdown if you did, so keep the 11t pinion and the 54t spur that came with it, you'll be glad you did.

    Since your still learning, there are three modes built into the ESC...

    Profile #1 (Sport Mode): 100% Forward, 100% Brakes, 100% Reverse

    Profile #2 (Race Mode): 100% Forward, 100% Brakes, No Reverse

    Profile #3 (Training Mode): 50% Forward, 100% Brakes, 50% Reverse

    Just set it for profile#3, that way it will be easier on the truck and you till your comfortable to move forward at faster speeds.

    Definately get a temp gun, the esc fan and the aluminum bearing adapter for the clutch.
    Ok, I will keep the stock pinion/spur as you recommended. I will also get an atleast 30c lipo when I decide to pull the trigger. SInce I live in europe I'm having some trouble finding the stuff you guys recommend.

    If swithing over from NImh to lipo and keeping the pinion/spur the same what kind of ebenfits am I looking at? Longer runtime, more power, higher topspeed?

    I'm really glad and thankfull for all the help guys!!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-10-2017 at 12:32 PM. Reason: merge

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Never run a nimh battery till it is dead.
    Where did you get that info from? If that were true then there would be a lvc like lipos have. Ive never heard of that or read that before. Actually the opposite is true. If you only run them down to a certain point then charge then you can create a memory point in the batt. Ive ran every nimh i ever owned down to the point it wouldnt move the truck. If it werent for the plastic ripping and them falling apart id still have them to this day as I still have 1 original batt left and it runs as good now as it did the day i got it and have always ran it all the way down. I also own a couple other new nimh batts(got in trades or purchases), I use them for when nephews come over I run those in the rc's they use but I really want to get rid of them...



    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Hi guys.I would like to be able to service and upgrade the stampede to handle 3s batteries some day and be able to change broken parts for myself.
    In the meantime I'm looking for another NIMH battery that I could use before I have enough knowledge and experience to do any upgrades. What battery would be me most bang for my bucks (running the car in stock mode) Any help would be really appriciated
    Hello and welcome to the P4de brotherhood lol. Heres my thread on vxl upgrades: Bulletproofing or suggested upgrades for 3s lipo.
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6296896
    In the thread it talked about shoe glue body mod but there's no pic so heres one. Also before you go lipo heres 2 good threads on lipos.
    Going Lipo:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9051805
    Batteries Explained:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6289866 To bad you live over the pond, I have extra nimh batts. X2 on SMC batts. I own a couple lol.
    Lipo= sustained power through run.
    Nimh=falling power through run.
    Only way to get more power is to go to 3s as its a higher voltage than nimh and 2s, so it spins motor faster and will give you faster speeds.
    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 09-10-2017 at 02:12 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  14. #14
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    All these parts/batteries needed for upgrading is going tu run me about 400 dollars ��
    Since I cant afford them all at once I will have to do the upgrades one at a time. My plan for now would be just to get another nimh battery and slowly add upgrades as I get some money. I would like nothing more than to go 3s and get all the upgrades right away but as i mentioned I just.cant afford it!!

  15. #15
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    I am really confused about what to do at the moment. The guys here at my local shop say I can run the lipo batteries fine with my stock setup but on the forums 99% recommend I upgrade before going to lipo batteries.

    So here is my shopping list/Upgrade plan as for now

    1.Aircompressor for cleaning. Since I will be doing most of my driving on gravel/sand
    2. A Nimh 5000mah battery
    3. Temp gun
    4. Aluminum bearing adapter??

    A will start off with these and save money for the later stage of my upgrade which would look like
    MIP x-duty drives, Lipobatteries, ESC cooling fan, etc

    I have watched numerous videos on how to update my stampede but still feel pretty uncertain about replacing the aluminum bearing adapter. I don’t think changing the part itself would be of any problem but getting it correctly back on makes me really nervous 

    Does this seem like a sound plan. Any comments or recommendations would be highly appreciated
    Last edited by opethrapture; 09-11-2017 at 04:48 AM.

  16. #16
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    That body fix looks really nice, looks pretty simple even for a beginner. I really envy you guys living in the states. Parts are so much more expensive here in europe...

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    That body fix looks really nice, looks pretty simple even for a beginner. I really envy you guys living in the states. Parts are so much more expensive here in europe...
    Thanks bodies went from lasting few weeks to 4-6 months.
    It seems very intimidating, i felt same way when i started. Now i can completely take apart entire truck and put back together in no time. Dont overtighten screws when screwing in to plastic, just snug them. If going in to metal id suggest blue locktite and tighten more than snug. If feeling up to it just do the bearing adapter upgrade for now and forget everything else and have fun. If you get stuck on something we are here to help so just ask. Youll be fine I promise.
    Slipper and Bearing adapter upgrade
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...clutch-bearing
    You dont really even need to do bearing adapter right now unless having problems. Run it until you have a problem then fix it. In the actual upgrade, the most important part is resetting pinion and spur mesh. Just use a thin strip of paper(i doubled mine) set in between gears, push together firmly and tighten motor then pull paper out. Your looking for the least amount of tick when rocking gear back and forth without any binding. Google for vids on it. Im my post that was a month or two, dont remember exactly, after getting it. I ran at least 4 packs a day during the week and 6 or more a day on weekend for it to do that. Thats a lot of run time. It prob wouldnt of happened that soon after purchasing it either if i had kept slipper set correctly but ran it with it slipping way to much and heat caused plastic to melt. I didnt know any better with it being my first hobby grade rc ever.
    Air compressor seems a bit much, do you have air duster in a can you can buy? If dry sand and gravel a good shaking should be good then a couple quick hits with air duster should be fine. Id take the clear plastic center drive shaft tunnel off if you plan on running in gravel. Theres a screw under rx box and one by batt hold down. I used to get rocks stuck in there all the time and it was hard to get stuff out and it would grind on drive shaft.
    Temp gun isnt really needed until you go to lipo and start upgrading as truck gets heavier.
    Imo for now, with being new and parts being hard to get over there:
    Air duster, extra batt, good hex driver tool set like: or these go in drill but be careful when screwing in not to strip plastic,
    ...and run it like you stole it!

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 09-11-2017 at 08:24 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the calming words. I was used to the traxxas aton quadcopter not needing any cleaning/upgrading/maintance but with cars it's a whole different world. I'm owerwhelmed by how much you need to know about the parts and mechanics which made me kind of anxious since I have no idea what I'm going to do next.

    If feel the Stampede pack plenty off punch already and just wish that I could run it for longer durations. That's why I feel it might be overkill with all these upgrades right away

    Do I need a temp gun/ESC-fan if I decide to just run with NIMH batteries for now?

    I think I'm gonna get some air duster cans, a good driver tool set and a few more NIHM batteries to start with and try to learn as much as possible. When I get a little more confident I will have more money and curage to start doing some upgrades. Thanks for the help!!!

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks for the calming words. I was used to the traxxas aton quadcopter not needing any cleaning/upgrading/maintance but with cars it's a whole different world. I'm owerwhelmed by how much you need to know about the parts and mechanics which made me kind of anxious since I have no idea what I'm going to do next.

    If feel the Stampede pack plenty off punch already and just wish that I could run it for longer durations. That's why I feel it might be overkill with all these upgrades right away

    Do I need a temp gun/ESC-fan if I decide to just run with NIMH batteries for now?

    I think I'm gonna get some air duster cans, a good driver tool set and a few more NIHM batteries to start with and try to learn as much as possible. When I get a little more confident I will have more money and curage to start doing some upgrades. Thanks for the help!!!
    Imo, no fans really needed for now unless running in 90°+ heat and esc goes in to thermal shut down then id get fans and temp gun, but for now not really necessary. Its easy to install esc fan if needed just a plug n play basically.
    Yes they do require maintenance but its new so for now, run it and have fun. You may want to pick up and extra set of stock drive shafts just to have on hand if hobby shop is far away or ordering online with your bearing adapter. Their cheap and hate for you to be down waiting on parts. My new vxl even on nimh batts broke drive shafts in the beginning. But I was jumping, and popping wheelies constantly. Your plan sounds good to me. Dont get overwhelmed or over think it. Im older with parts easily accessible and make decent money so I ran mine as hard as could testing every limit cause i didnt care about breaking it. If you treat yours better than i did it should give you trouble free fun for a while. The stock plastic shock caps tend to pop off easy if jumping, if it becomes a problem its one of those easy first upgrades to get your feet wet with so to speak. Np yw thats why we are here, enjoying passing on our experiences.
    That dynamite tool kit isnt the best and ive bought 3 in the past 2 yrs but i really like the ratcheting handle. Also on the center drive shaft cover tunnel removal... Remove the 2 bottom (yellow arrow) screws, lift rx box, remove (red arrow) screws and tunnel cover then replace rx box (yellow arrow) screws.
    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 09-11-2017 at 09:04 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  20. #20
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    Allright, so no temp gun/esc fan for now. Less to worry about

    I just ordered a ew NIMB batteries and next week I will order a tool kit, aluminum shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter.
    As for drive shafts either these http://www.rcm.fi/varaosat/traxxas-v...4x4-t8638.html

    or these:

    http://www.rcm.fi/varaosat/traxxas-v...lack-6266.html

    I'm not able to see 2 out of the 3 pictures you posted briber??

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Allright, so no temp gun/esc fan for now. Less to worry about

    I just ordered a ew NIMB batteries and next week I will order a tool kit, aluminum shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter.
    As for drive shafts either these http://www.rcm.fi/varaosat/traxxas-v...4x4-t8638.html

    or these:

    http://www.rcm.fi/varaosat/traxxas-v...lack-6266.html

    I'm not able to see 2 out of the 3 pictures you posted briber??
    Its only one pic with black on top and bottom of it lol. It does look like it should be 3 pics though lol.
    You can try those integy drives, most ppl go with mip or tekno because they are proven reliable. Maybe someone whos had those can give their experience with them.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  22. #22
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    What I can say as a beginner (I have my pede only since a month) the first thing that broke, after only 10 days, was the slipper clutch, the plastic spacer has just melted and bound with the spring, the motor would only spin and the truck did not move anymore, so if you have to order parts, replace the spacer with the aluminum one (part 6893X). The stock tires are not good to grip on other surface than tarmac, so you could check if you could find better one for the gravel and sand. I bought big bore shocks that are all in aluminum (part 5862) to be sure that they would not break after some jumps. That's only what I can say about what I had experienced as I'm only starting to learn about this universe of the RC.
    Last edited by Blademael; 09-12-2017 at 09:06 PM.

  23. #23
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    Beginner here and have some questions

    There are alot of online shops in europe . OK not as cheap as the US .
    I live in Belgium and get my parts from the Netherlands or Austria
    Trxxs .NL - Toemen.NL - TopRc.NL - trx shop.EU
    Also look at Asiatees for parts.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 09-16-2017 at 06:03 AM.
    Stampede 4X4 VXL
    Rustler VXL

  24. #24
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will definitely order the aluminum bearing, some aluminum shock caps and tools this weekend.
    I have already gone through a bottle of air so I'm definitely thinking about byuing a compressor instead. I got the car really muddy yesterday and after hosing it off and cleaning it I found that most of my screws already have signs of rust on them. Definitely need to get something for that.

    I built up the curage to take apart somewhat and even managed to get it back working I love my newfound hobby!!

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    I beleive there is a stainless steel screw kit for traxxas vehicles and as for the air situation, i use one of these to clean dust, dirt and to dry off just about anything...

    link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metro-DataVa...26.m2548.l4275

    demo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YasEeLz9Yhg

    I started using this for cleaning the dust out of computers, but this works great on anything.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  26. #26
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    That datavac looks awesome!! Do you find it has sufficient power to clean your cars?

    Thanks for the headsup regarding the stainless steel screw kit. I plan on driving alot in the winter also so these are a must

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    I still clean my own computers with it(great side job if you offer people just to blow the dust out for $10).... but also my RC vehicles, wont blow off caked on wet sticky mud, the looser things like sand, dirt, grass, small twigs, etc, it works a treat.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  28. #28
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    Looks like I can't buy the datavac from europe so If buying from the states I am looking at a total cost of about 120 dollars. Do you still think it is worth it?

    Im getting ready to change the upgrade to the aluminum bearing adapter but concerned with alignment of the spur/pinion gear. Any ideas how to not mess that part up?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Looks like I can't buy the datavac from europe so If buying from the states I am looking at a total cost of about 120 dollars. Do you still think it is worth it?

    Im getting ready to change the upgrade to the aluminum bearing adapter but concerned with alignment of the spur/pinion gear. Any ideas how to not mess that part up?
    Google videos on it but i threw one on here below for ya. For starters id use paper method, basically take a piece of paper(i fold it in half) stick in between pinion and spur then push them together tightly. Tighten down motor mount screw, turn gear to remove paper. Your looking for the deepest tooth penetration without teeth bottoming out in opposite gear. If you rock the spur back and forth there should a tiny bit of play. Watch "RCTogether * How to set gear mesh" on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/5cda07nREWsI also use a foaming window cleaner and paper towels & qtips to clean my trucks. With an air compressor be careful not to push water or debris in to places it shouldnt go(bulkhead, bearings, etc).
    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 09-14-2017 at 11:26 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  30. #30
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    Thanks a lot for the video. That was really helpful.
    I will try to do some upgrades later this evening so keeping fingers crossed that I don't mess something up

    It has been raining for almost 2 weeks straight here in Finland and I have already had to shower the car twice to get all the crap out.

    The nimh batteries also have some small rocks and some fine sand in them that I can't seem to get out withing taking of the plastic. Any suggestions?

  31. #31
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    Yippiiee. 60 minutes of hard work paid of. Aluminun bearing has been installed
    I'm still a bit uncertain about the pinion/spur part. I used the paper as adviced and will have to wait till tomorrow before test running it properly. What are signs of the pinion/spur not beeing properly placed?

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    When the mesh is too tight, the spur and pinion don't turn easily. Sometimes you can hear that.
    With a mesh not tight enough you can move one gear back and forward too much without the other one moving along.
    Nobody is born with experience

  33. #33
    RC Racer
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    I think I might have had it on a little too tight. Did some more research and found this method. Thoughts?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og9YJ_PMgbo

    If this is no good I will try the paper method. Just to clarify. Is this the correct way to do it:

    "Hold the spur gear with one finger and rock the pinion back and forth. There should be just a little play back and forth. The paper method is simply putting a strip of paper between the teeth of the spur and the pinion, tightening it all the way down, then removing the paper. That leaves just a little space between the two gears for good gear mesh". 
    Last edited by opethrapture; 09-15-2017 at 12:06 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks a lot for the video. That was really helpful.
    I will try to do some upgrades later this evening so keeping fingers crossed that I don't mess something up

    It has been raining for almost 2 weeks straight here in Finland and I have already had to shower the car twice to get all the crap out.

    The nimh batteries also have some small rocks and some fine sand in them that I can't seem to get out withing taking of the plastic. Any suggestions?
    I wouldnt mess with trying to remove those.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  35. #35
    RC Racer
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    First testrun after upgrading yesterday. Runs good so far

    Is there a thread on maintance/cleaning as that is something I would need to help with also?

  36. #36
    RC Competitor
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    There are a lot of video on youtube that can help for that.
    https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...rc+maintenance

  37. #37
    RC Racer
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    Well that's kind of the problem

    I have been watching to many videos on maintenance/cleaning so I feel really confused at times. In most videos people use wd-40 while others recommend never to use that. What I would like to know is:
    In what order to clean my car, and with what oil, if any should be used.

    As my cars gets really dirty everytime I take it out I have had to hose it down everyday.

    So here is what I'm thinking.

    1. Shake out any loose gravel/rocks from the car.
    2. Use water to get mud, rock, dirt out if needed
    3. Use compressor to get car as dry/clean as possible.
    4. Use brushes/ with or without water to clean out those hard to reach places.
    5. Air compressor again, and makes sure the car is as dry as possible.
    6. Spay oil/Silicon oil to prevent rust

    Suggestions?

  38. #38
    RC Enthusiast
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    All lubricates has good and bad points :

    Silicon as grease leave a wet surface that attract dirt so you have to clean more. The good side of this , is that is last longer even in wet conditions .
    Small Tip : If you use silicon , the surface has to be clean to stick the silicon to the surface .

    PTFE will dry out and don't attract dirt as much but you have to lubricate more because It don't last long.

    I use molykote with lithium soap to grease my bearings and PTFE to prevent rust.
    The molykote is one of the thinnest greases that I know

    I clean them with a hose and dry them with a air compressor or heat gun

    The only problem I had was , when I rode at the beach in salty water . 9 Bearings didn't survived because of the salt

    But , whatever you use , don't over lubricate . The use of small bearings and a lot of lubricate will end up in heat or resistance that eventually will slow down your car .
    Last edited by bcndc; 09-18-2017 at 06:22 AM.
    Stampede 4X4 VXL
    Rustler VXL

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Well that's kind of the problem

    I have been watching to many videos on maintenance/cleaning so I feel really confused at times. In most videos people use wd-40 while others recommend never to use that. What I would like to know is:
    In what order to clean my car, and with what oil, if any should be used.

    As my cars gets really dirty everytime I take it out I have had to hose it down everyday.

    So here is what I'm thinking.

    1. Shake out any loose gravel/rocks from the car.
    2. Use water to get mud, rock, dirt out if needed
    3. Use compressor to get car as dry/clean as possible.
    4. Use brushes/ with or without water to clean out those hard to reach places.
    5. Air compressor again, and makes sure the car is as dry as possible.
    6. Spay oil/Silicon oil to prevent rust

    Suggestions?
    Over thinking it way to much. Run it like you stole it, upgrade as you break parts, every few weeks spin wheels if they roll fine cool if not, pop bearings out, use exacto to pop out blue seals, oil or grease with silicone based lube, put seals in then reinstall bearings and run it!!! Every 6-8 weeks check and replace diff and shock fluids if needed.
    Dont use anything on plastic(armor all, oil, etc.), they just make dirt stick to plastic even worse and makes it harder to clean. I use window cleaner and paper towels. I used to use compressed air but after seeing sand and debris in places I didnt want it I stopped. Now i just shake, wipe down like mentioned and let it ride.
    Heres my erbe i took to FL on vacation 1.5 months ago, still has sand on it lol. Overall pic was just a very light rinse with water and quick wipe down.
    Honestly you could prob run 9months to over a yr and do no maintenance on it before it really needed it or something breaks.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 09-18-2017 at 04:01 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  40. #40
    RC Racer
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    Haha, you are absolutely right
    It's just really hard for a neatfreak perfectionst not to get to obsessed by these things. But really comforting to hear that I'm overcomplicating things.

    I was stupid enough to take off the wheeliebar and did run my car a few times without it. After my last run I noticed that the rear left axel was moving way to much and saw that the two metal pins sticking out where the wheelie bar should be was keeping them in place. I had some trouble getting it mounted back on but it should be fine for now.

    I found a small racetrack near my house so I know where I will be spending my afternoons this week. This is just so much fun.

    Once again, thanks for all the help!!

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