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  1. #81
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    As of now it seems like I'm getting 2 of these:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ac...-b1046/p630468

    Just need to find a newbiefriendly charger inside europe

  2. #82
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    The "C" designation is the discharge rate of the battery, theres a constant and burst... the constant is what the battery can provide continuously and the burst(tipically continuous x2) is for a few seconds only.

    What your lQQking for is the highest "C" rating(continuous) you can find for the lipo you want to use as well as MAH(run time), your electronics, especially the ESC and MOTOR draw the most amps, the other items such as the receiver, servo, lights, etc require much less, but still act as one big current draw... so the higher the number, the less the battery has to work and that equals less heat, in turn, it provides more stable and longer battery life.

    To give you an example, my SMC 4s 4500MAH lipo has a 60c/120c(continuous/burst) rating and my VANT 3s 7600MAH lipo has a 75c/150c(continuous/burst) rating, i get good run times when offroad, even better when onroad, temps hover around 95F, no matter how hard i pushed them, whats ideal is at least 100F or lower.

    SMC 4.5a x 60c = 270a(continuous) / 4.5a x 120c = 540a(burst)
    VANT 7.6a x 75c = 570a(continuous) / 7.6a x 150c = 1140a(burst)

    Correction... its brand is "VANT", not vanta.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  3. #83
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    As of now it seems like I'm getting 2 of these:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ac...-b1046/p630468

    Just need to find a newbiefriendly charger inside europe
    What i would recomend is starting off with at least 5000MAH and use hardcase lipos for trucks, soft packs are not ideal when using offroad.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  4. #84
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    just like to no cant you a 7 v or a 11 v battery in any truck is it just the 11v is more stronger then a 7v .Looking to get a few more battery not sure if il get 7v or 11v looking at less 5000 or 6000. What your in but on this .

  5. #85
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    here a few battery am looking at
    HRB 2s 7.4v 6000mah 60c Li-poly Lipo Battery Hard Case

    HRB 11.1V 5000mAh 3S 50C-100C Akku LiPo Battery
    Gens ace 5000mAh 11.1V 3S 50C LiPo Battery

  6. #86
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    ****, that was not the answer I wanted

    I don't see how I can afford this much longer. And I have not even upgraded my at all yet. What I'm most dissapointed in at the moment is the tires. I was thinking about perhaps getting some proline mashers but I would be to afraid of screwing them up with sand and water inside them. Seems like driving on dry aspahalt is the only "safe" way if not wanting to buy another pair of wheels every two weeks.

    On another note. If I get the aluminum hex wheel hubs, will they fit with the tekno driveshafts??
    Tekno makes there own aluminum hexes, you'll need to use them because of the 6mm size. I still had hex issues. I went with 17mm conversion kit recently. Took a beating and didn't give at all yet

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    I do 90% of my driving on sand. Avoid mud/water as much as possible. Would the mashers be a good set of wheels for that?
    Look at sand paws or any paddle tires.

  8. #88
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    Are the hexes that come with the tekno driveshafts 12mm?

  9. #89
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    Thanks for clearing up the C meaning. I was thinking the same thing about the lipo packs. Will definitely try and find a hardcase pack!!

  10. #90
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  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Are the hexes that come with the tekno driveshafts 12mm?
    Yes they are

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    HR racing 17mm are more cost effective but yes the ones listed will work

  13. #93
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    Oh, I was under the impression that I would have to get the tekno brand 17mm hexes. But you are saying I could go for these instead:

    http://rcexpress.com/hot-racing-trax...bs-slf117xs06/

    I noticed they sell 3 different kinds of hexes for the stampede. Are these the right ones for me?

  14. #94
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    Instead of getting another rc to drive short course/indoors during the winter I was thinking about lowering the shocks all the way down for more stability. Does anyone have any experience with this?

  15. #95
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    I have the Tekno gear with Aluminum hexes. I have the HR 17mm kit. It's perfect.

  16. #96
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    You have the ones that I mentioned earlier? these?:
    http://rcexpress.com/hot-racing-trax...bs-slf117xs06/

    I'm thinking of buying a bigger set of tires to use when running on snow and a pair of normal 6mm 2.8 tires that I could use on the short course/indoors

    What tires did you get?
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-04-2017 at 02:23 AM.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    You have the ones that I mentioned earlier? these?:
    http://rcexpress.com/hot-racing-trax...bs-slf117xs06/

    I'm thinking of buying a bigger set of tires to use when running on snow and a pair of normal 6mm 2.8 tires that I could use on the short course/indoors

    What tires did you get?
    That link is no good. But yes I have the HR racing with the 6mm offset.


  18. #98
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    Sorry, here was the correct link

    Your pede looks awesome, will definitely get a pair of those 17mm hexes asap. Thanks for the help!!
    Those tekno driveshafts look good too, hope I can install mine without any bigger problems when I get them.

    I just got a 2s lipo today and was really excited to try it out. I must admit I was a little dissapointed so I did not notice and increase in either speed or power vs the NIMH pack. No wheelies or better top speeds. I had been looking at youtube and other people driving the stampede with 2s batteries but saw none of that power in my own pede. Is this normal??
    I got a 50c 2s 5000mah and compare that to a 8,4v nimh 5000mah battery. Perhaps I was just expecting too much?
    The drivetime however was really good. Well over 30 minutes and the motor or esc did not even got hot during that time.


    GOnna get a 3s as soon as I get those new driveshafts!

  19. #99
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    If your clutch is tight it'll wheelie

  20. #100
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    With my 2s battery it wheelies until the battery is dead, but my esc and motor are burning hot after a run. Thats why I've installed a fan on each
    But lipo battery is not hot
    Envoyé de mon LG-H831 en utilisant Tapatalk
    Last edited by Blademael; 10-04-2017 at 12:41 PM.
    One Stampede and one TRX4

  21. #101
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Tighten that slipper. You'll get the wheelies. And if not satisfied ho 3s asap. That's all I run


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  22. #102
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    I will try and tighten the slipper and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion
    I always stopped runnning the nimh batteries when I felt a significant drop in power. What about the Lipo batterys. When should I stop driving?

  23. #103
    RC Qualifier Iansprouse1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    I will try and tighten the slipper and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion
    I always stopped runnning the nimh batteries when I felt a significant drop in power. What about the Lipo batterys. When should I stop driving?
    If the ESC is set on “lipo mode” or low voltage detection, the battery will just run with no drop in power until they die suddenly. Just drive till it dies.


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    Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, SCX10, Bearded Dragon

  24. #104
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    Slipper was much looser than I thought so I tightened it and gonna see how it feels later on today. I'm expecting wheelies
    And driving till the battery dies sounds just fine, thanks for the answer!

    I just got a used slash 4x4 which I'm rally excited about. Nice to have something better suited for short course racing!!

  25. #105
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    Just got this charger:

    https://www.eurorc.com/product/13431...---nimh---lipo

    From what I understand the lipo batteries come with many different connectors. Seeing as the charger I got comes with a deans charging cable does that then mean I can only charge lipos with dean connections?

    If someone could recommend a good 3s battery that I could fit into the stampede and use with the charger mentioned above I would be more than happy

  26. #106
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    The charger and the battery connectors are two different things. You can get a Traxxas charge lead that works fine with your charger: http://www.progressiverc.com/traxxas-charge-cable.html
    Nobody is born with experience

  27. #107
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    I took out the pede after tightening the slipper clutch but results were same as yesterday. No wheelies whatsoever... Iäm driving with smaller than stock tires at the moment, could that be a factor?

    I also ran the 2s pack till battery whas empty but I was not able to turn of the esc after this. The esc just keeps on blinking red and won't shut down no matter what I try. Only way was to unplugg the battery. I tried pluggin in the battery when I got home and at first glows green for a short while and then starts to blink red. If I give it some throttle it responds but only for a second or two then the gas/brake does not function. Steering works but nothing else.

    I also tried the method described here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tw4OvVkwIo

    But it did not work. Any ides on what might be wrong??

  28. #108
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    I only get wheelies on 3s with stock wheels or 2.8 badlands, both regular and mx style. Have you ran with the slipper tighten all the way? I only have mine 1/8-1/4 backed out from tight.
    I can't answer your question about your light situation I only run castle now no more traxxas esc/motor


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  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    I took out the pede after tightening the slipper clutch but results were same as yesterday. No wheelies whatsoever... Iäm driving with smaller than stock tires at the moment, could that be a factor?

    I also ran the 2s pack till battery whas empty but I was not able to turn of the esc after this. The esc just keeps on blinking red and won't shut down no matter what I try. Only way was to unplugg the battery. I tried pluggin in the battery when I got home and at first glows green for a short while and then starts to blink red. If I give it some throttle it responds but only for a second or two then the gas/brake does not function. Steering works but nothing else.

    I also tried the method described here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tw4OvVkwIo

    But it did not work. Any ides on what might be wrong??
    With Badlands MX28's I can flip it over on 2S from a stand still.
    Your esc is fine. It's in low voltage mode. Charge your battery. If it enters that mode you have to disconnect the battery. I'm guessing the thought was if your batteries voltage is low you either need to unplug it or it will continue to discharge slowly through the esc. Removing the battery will allow you to charge it and prevent damage from over discharge.

  30. #110
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    After the lipo is empty, my light is always blinking red and have to disconnect the battery to stop it, I recharge the lipo and my p4de is ready to go. Sorry I can't help you about the problem you have.

    Envoyé de mon LG-H831 en utilisant Tapatalk
    One Stampede and one TRX4

  31. #111
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    Have not tried running it with the slipper tightened all the way. I loosened it about 1/2 turn yesterday but I will keep it in mind. I thought that leavining it tightened all the way down was going to cause to much wear...

    I also did a short testrun after I had recharged my 2s battery and everything seemed to work normal again. I was afraid I would have to buy a new esc or that I had busted the motor.

    I tried pluggin in a fully charged NIMH battery also before the lipo was full but that did not help at all. I was not able to change any settings on the esc, is this normal??

    SO in the future is ok just to run the lipo battery till it dies and just continue driving using another fully charged lipo?

    I was thinking about buying a new set of tires and will not anticipate any wheelies before installing them. I would like a good pair of all round tires that I also could use in the wintertime. Pro-line seems highly recommended, but what model should I get.

    As always I'm super thankfull for all the help. You guys are really helpfull!!!!

  32. #112
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Badlands 2.8mx. Highly recommend them. I wouldn't recommend running the slipper all the way right. I just don't run as loose as the manual says.
    Lipid you can run all the way until the car doesn't move. The esc shuts down before the battery is drained too low.
    As long as you have charged lipid you can run them back to back as long as your motor and esc aren't over heating.


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  33. #113
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    Those badlands look awesome. I'm still contemplating if I should get the 2.8 or 3.8 ones. And also, thanks for clearing up the lipo/esc problem. I was really worried there for awhile

    Btw I noticed that there are a few different tekno m6 driveshaft kits available. Please tell me that the ones I ordered will fit my stampede.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-RC-M6-...53.m2749.l2649

  34. #114
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    These are my 2.8's. I couldn't imagine a larger tire being any better with a truck this size. But to each his own.

  35. #115
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    The same tires that I have and I love them, they have so mutch grip on the ground, also the look is awesome, really agressive. I think it's one of the reason I broke a rear shaft.

    Envoyé de mon LG-H831 en utilisant Tapatalk
    One Stampede and one TRX4

  36. #116
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    Those 2.8 seem big enough absolutely. I know what I’m getting next for my pede!!

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post

    These are my 2.8's. I couldn't imagine a larger tire being any better with a truck this size. But to each his own.
    That looks bloody sweet , what body is that ...love it .

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

  38. #118
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post

    These are my 2.8's. I couldn't imagine a larger tire being any better with a truck this size. But to each his own.
    That body is sweet lookin!! And you can do 3.8 badlands. Here my slash with 3.8 badlands. Absolutely massive. Practically an emaxx which shares these same tires lol next to the stock sized sl2sh


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  39. #119
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    Oooh those tires look good, would be best to buy a pair of both

    I just ran a pack and can't help but feeling a little discouraged. I can't seem to run the car for more than a short while before something brakes of goes wrong. Today I noticed a "metallic chirping" sound and I feel the car has lost some power and speed.
    Also when I push the car forward on the ground with my hands it feels really unsmooth and it does not roll well, is if there is something resisting it. I I lift the car in the air and turn the wheel they spin smootlhy

    Any idea on what could be the problem?
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-07-2017 at 03:58 AM.

  40. #120
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That is the Proline 66 Ford truck. And it sounds like your pinion and spur aren't/weren't meshed together properly. Take your gear cover off and inspect

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