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  1. #1
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    new emaxx, help with upgrades!

    Hello all, I'm about to be getting a new brushless emaxx next week. The last one I had was the very original emaxx 10 years ago. I've been doing some research on upgrades and have found a list of what I wanted, and I'd like to get some feedback on it and any other options you would recommend. Thank you.

    Rpm bulkheads, shock towers, a arms, true track a arm kit, hub carriers, bumpers

    Robinson racing spur gear (or pinion?) And slipper clutch - are there different models? Which is best?

    Traxxas cvds on all fours and also for center driveline. Till I fond something better

    Shim differential with 6mm shims

    I plan on getting 2 smc 2s 5000mah packs, will the 7200 or 9000 fit the emaxx? I'd like to get 7200 or 9000 if it fits

    I believe that's all I can think of for now to have a pretty solid basher. Let me know your opinions.

  2. #2
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    1.
    Traxxas CVD's on all fours and also for center driveline.
    2.
    Shim differential with 6mm shims.
    3.
    I plan on getting 2 SMC 2s 5000mah packs, will the 7200 or 9000 fit the emaxx? I'd like to get 7200 or 9000 if they fit.
    Number one is a very good idea to do.

    Number two is a good idea, but also make one of these. I did a post on it a little while ago.





    And, for number three you could consider doing this battery strap mod. Then you can do any size battery you want. I did a post on this too, but I'm sure by now Photobucket dumped my pictures. If you need help let me know.



    You might want to consider Traxxas' Big Bore shocks, because they work well too. As far as the other things you mention above, (IMO) you can do them, but they're either not needed or they just make something else more expensive (and, harder to get to) break.
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  3. #3
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    Thank you for your detailed reply! I ran across your post last night about the bushing, it looks like a great idea! I also believe I saw you mention the flm chassis, I may get that, it's only $104 and comes with the center drive shafts, since I would be paying $30 for traxxas center cvds, I figure it's worth it to just get the flm chassis, not the lcg one though because I want good ground clearance. I'll probably upgrade to their hybrid bulkheads with 1/8th diffs once I blow my
    diffs out.

  4. #4
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    I've also been toying wth the idea of getting a machine shop to make some cvds for me out of a high strength steel or titanium.

  5. #5
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    You can if you want, but it's not necessary to put big money into a 6s Emaxx in order to get it to be reliable. There are only a few things you need to do, and they can all be done for about a hundred-ish bucks.
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  6. #6
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    Well my plan is to bulletproof it. I plan on keeping it for a long time and really putting it through its paces. I don't mind spending a few hundred or more if it can handle the abuse. I know my last emaxx constantly broke

  7. #7
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    Just for the sake of discussion, mind you. I've had my Emaxx for 9 years. I did the Traxxas big bore shocks, the Traxxas CV axles and drive shafts, balanced Proline tires and rims, Integy front/rear aluminum bumpers, shimmed/Oilrite bushing-ed my diffs, aluminum motor fanned heat sink, hood scooped Proline body, and repacked all my Traxxas bearings with marine grade grease.

    With the above done, I can pound the living snot out of my Emaxx, and it keeps wanting more. Yes, over the years I've broken a few bulkheads and suspension arms after horrific crashes, and broken a shock tower once, but that's not enough for me to justify going out and paying 10 time more for all new RPM plastics/aluminum parts. It's just not cost effective, and it doesn't make a Emaxx bullet proof.

    Let me put it this way, no matter what you do, and how much you spend, you will never make a (any) RC bullet proof (unless you don't use it and keep it on a shelf). What you really want to do is make it very, very, reliable, and when/if a part does (every now and again) break you want it to be cheap, easy to fix, and field reparable.

    Fortunately, you don't need a lot of money to do that, but you do need to know what will/won't get the job done...That's what good about this forum. The only bad thing about this forum is (it's not Traxxas' fault) that Photobucket canned a lot of the "How To" pictures in a lot of the older posts, but I'm sure guys here won't mind helping you out if you ask. Good luck!

    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 09-18-2017 at 03:39 PM.
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  8. #8
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    The e maxx has so many parts out there thT it can be upgraded to out do any e revo. But it takes time and research. I run 6s in mine. You dont need hybrid bulkheads and 1/8 diff gears. Just get aluminum diff cups ( 15 to 25 dollars), and shim it. Cvd drive shafts and center shafts. After that, you are good to go. The rest will brake, when it do, then replace them with RPM. The diffs, driveshafts, and shocktowers is tbe weak point's of the e maxx. The. Shocks are a little to soft for me. I have integy aluminum adjustable on mine.
    Here are some pictures
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/158385.../shares/zq2S26

  9. #9
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    New tires, cvd's all the way around and better shocks is all I use now a days. I have four big bores and 4 1-8 scale shocks from a previous truck. I put a lot of money into trying to bullet proof the emaxx but I ended up just snapping more expensive parts lol. Tons of fun but I had to tone my driving down in order to keep my money in my wallet. have fun!


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  10. #10
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    I can see what you're saying now. I reckon I'll get some driveshafts, shim the diff, pack all the bearings with some Schaeffer grease (they make superior quality lubricants for all sorts of applications) and run it till she breaks lol. I'll definitely be posting any broken parts and upgrades as they happen. My wife said I can get a lathe next year, maybe a vertical mill too. If it works out I'll be machining parts like crazy for this thing.

    Edit: I love the old ford body on your truck, it really tops it off.
    Last edited by djac91; 09-19-2017 at 05:03 PM.

  11. #11
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    one more thing. The E/MAXX have alot of power brushless and brushed. set your controller right. i have my punch to 805 and my throttle band to slow (not normal) and this thing still wants to lift off the ground. these settings are good for your diff,s and driveshafts and transmission. Like the other guys said, I had to ease up from the 10 to 15 feet jumps, full throttle speed runs that ended up smacking into something.
    Just because the dashboard says 150mph, doesn't mean drive it at 150mph all the time...lol...
    ere is a video I've done yesterday bashing mine on lunch brakes last week:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsKg...&feature=share

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by djac91 View Post
    Traxxas cvds on all fours and also for center driveline.....
    I plan on getting 2 smc 2s 5000mah packs, will the 7200 or 9000 fit the emaxx? I'd like to get 7200 or 9000 if it fits
    As of right now im using smc 9k mah 2s packs in mine with the stock batt hold down.Dont really like it because its pretty tight where balance leads and main wires come out of pack and will switch to Velcro straps. Irun them in all my rc's, but I go sideways with them so theres not any rubbing or added stress to pack wires.

    On the Trx cvds, while Trx stands behind their products and have replaced my new ones couple of times when they broke, just havent had very good luck with the dog bone style shafts. The mip or proline splined style drives have been flawless and are proven reliable on 4-6s with somewhat regular maintenance.
    Last edited by Briber; 09-25-2017 at 02:46 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  13. #13
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    So far I've broken a rear shock tower (fixed it with tie wire for now, she still runs), bent a couple shock shafts. And slightly broken an a arm. I have some flm shock towers on the way. The stock driveshafts have held up better than I thought so I haven't installed the traxxas cvds yet. I got some venom 2s 5000mah 25c batteries and they have been doing great. I get about 30-45 min runtime depending on my driving. Is there anyway to help waterproof the receiver further? I know about the old balloon trick, I just dont know what else kids are doing these days lol. One thing I don't like about the truck is the tires, I feel like they lack traction, they would probably be good on a track though.. My old emaxx had the original maxx tires on it and it would grip off road really well.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by djac91 View Post
    So far I've broken a rear shock tower (fixed it with tie wire for now, she still runs), bent a couple shock shafts. And slightly broken an a arm. I have some flm shock towers on the way. The stock driveshafts have held up better than I thought so I haven't installed the traxxas cvds yet. I got some venom 2s 5000mah 25c batteries and they have been doing great. I get about 30-45 min runtime depending on my driving. Is there anyway to help waterproof the receiver further? I know about the old balloon trick, I just dont know what else kids are doing these days lol. One thing I don't like about the truck is the tires, I feel like they lack traction, they would probably be good on a track though.. My old emaxx had the original maxx tires on it and it would grip off road really well.
    If you like the stock E-Maxx Chevron style tires the brushed maxx has on em you should check out the 3.8 PRO-Line Masher tires i think they would be a good tire for your truck!!Just what youre looking for,Lots of grip!

  15. #15
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    I got my flm shock towers in today, they look great! I ran a pack of batteries through it and it seems to be a tad stiffer and handles better. I installed my traxxas cvds last night too and I really like how the truck drives with them compared to the plastic shafts. I took my teuck to the creek yesterday and had a couple mishaps, I sunk my truck and got sand and water all inside of my hard case venom lipos. I know my old spc batteries were submerged almost every charge with no ill effects, so I don't think it will hurt these.

  16. #16
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    I put proline trenchers on my truck before converting it into a truggy. Still use them on heavy terrain. They are great in gripping everything.( even climbing rocks ).
    Batteries: i always electric tape, then duck tape all my lipos before running them. NO LIPO IS WATERPROOF. Be careful. Lectron 5200mah 50c 3s, two of them in series is what i run.the only problem i always have is diff issues. RPM SEEMS TO HOLD UP RIGHT
    Last edited by Montell; 10-02-2017 at 09:32 PM.

  17. #17
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    If you are going to run it on 4s you dont need to upgrade it so mutch.
    My stock driveshafts have last for years with big joe 40 series wheels.

    Here is my experience with 4s e maxx brushless:
    Rpm rear shock tower is a must have! I used zip tie on my broken stock one until rpm arrived.
    Stock diff no shime. Have runned like this for many many hours with hard bashing.
    If you jump very high i mean stupid high, you will need to have rpm bulkheads and a spare of skid plates.
    Also buy a set of a arms screws because they get broken before the a arm.
    I have also rpm a arms on all wheels because they are stronger when you hit something.

    Rpm skid plates did not help me at all because the stock broken under the rpm skid.
    But this is not a problem if you just jump around a meter. Think i jumped two meter when my bulkhead and skid plate rear snapped in half.
    Stock shock works ok, Shock cap have still not popped so it is only the shaft that get bent if you hit something.

    If you use the truck normal and not almost as a plane, with 4s you will only need rpm shocktower rear to have a great truck. Upgrade to rpm as it breaks but the rear shock tower should you upgrade asap.
    Last edited by Kellerman; 10-06-2017 at 05:10 AM.

  18. #18
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    I have been driven my E-Maxx now about 25 4S battery's, and my broken part list is: Rear bulkhead, rear diff, 1 front A-arm, 2 bended shocks, rear shock tower, rear skidplate and 3 suspension pins. I didn't save car even it was new and results you can see from below Car is great and i enjoyed every moment.

    I upgrated A-arms and bulkheads to RPM products and skidplates to aluminum version and it looks like car is much more durable now. It handles big air and bad landings very well. Some moment i will move to 6S and hoping diff's can handle those powers.

  19. #19
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    Well my reason for upgrading it so heavily is because I plan to run 6s, but I want to have a rock solid platform first because this 4s is crazy, I put on the 20t pinion today and it goes wayyyyy faster. I had a full speed collision with a ditch and broke my front bulkhead and skidplate in half, and really bent up my body mounts. I'll probably upgrade to flm aluminum bulkheads in the front along with a skidplate. I really like how the flm products look and they are very reasonably priced for the great quality.

  20. #20
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    I'll probably upgrade to flm aluminum bulkheads in the front along with a skid plate.
    As I and some of the others have said before, you can't make these things bullet proof. You can only get them to a place where when something does break it's cheap and easy to fix. You'll find when you upgrade to FLM front aluminum bulkheads and skid plates your next problem will be breaking your chassis.

    When you change you chassis, next you will have motor, servo, and ESC problems due to the added weight. Then you'll beef up your electronics to handle the additional weight, and then you'll be back to having drivetrain problems again due to them not being able to handle the more speed and torque you needed for a heavier truck...it's a vicious cycle.

    Anyway, do yourself a favor and save yourself a lot of money and time. Just do the upgrades that some of us mentioned above, which are: body, wheels and tires, motor fan and heat sink, bumpers, axles and drives shafts, bearings, strapped battery trays, shimmed/bushing differentials, and shocks.

    If you do these upgrades you'll be way more cost effectively reliable than the RPM/aluminum way...not bullet proof, but way more reliable per buck spent. Anyway, for you, I hope you won't be one of these guys that has to learn everything the hard way. If so, I still wish you the very best of luck with your new Traxxas Emaxx truck. They are a lot of fun to play with and work on.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 10-07-2017 at 05:31 AM.
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  21. #21
    RC Champion ttThree's Avatar
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    The e-maxx is not correctly advertised if you need to make so many upgrades to make it handle 6s. I have upgraded most parts on my e-maxx and the only parts that still cause issues are the stock ones. The only stock part is the servo saver and they become sloppy after a while. If we look at the facts and compare the truck with other 1/8 scale ones with the same motor and esc, the only thing that is durable on the e-maxx is the hex screws. Everything else is underpowered for 6s bashing.

    I always see the same issues with the e-maxx in pretty much all forums and there are no single issues there are plenty of issues. The e-maxx is just too weak compared to the competitors and that is a hard fact that can't be denied. While it can be argued that "oh drive on 4s, loosen the slipper, roll on the throttle, etc" will prolonge the durability it is evident that the truck is too weak for practical purposes by todays standard. If we compare some of the crucial components on the e-maxx with the competitors you can see that the e-maxx has several parts under dimensioned and the choice of plastic rather than steel. For example the spider gears on the stock e-maxx is around 50% smaller than on other 1/8 scale differentials, now which one would be stronger?

    Proper 1/8 scale diffs, CVDs, and metal geared servos on a stock e-maxx would make it so much more competitive on the market and would be popular because there are alot of modding to be done on the plattform which is fun for customers. But now you are forced to source 1/8 scale diffs from other manufacturers to even drive on 6s regularly, as well as metal geared servo. It shouldn't be this way.

    I like the e-maxx because you can fully customize it, but the amount of money you need to spend to get it to equall level of the competitors is the huge down side. The e-maxx should have been in the same level as the x-maxx 8s, the x-maxx 8s is actually alot more durable on 8s than the e-maxx on 6s what I have heard and the price differance is not so big either. It is cheaper to get the x-maxx than the e-maxx in the long run. I think I could have bought two x-maxxes for the amount of money I have put into my e-maxx.

    I don't see how I as a customer benefit traxxas either because most parts are aftermarked ones so even if they break I wouldn't replace them with traxxas, and I wouldn't recommend anybody buying an e-maxx either.

    Traxxas has focused too much on expensive company marketing rather than user marketing like the competitors are doing. This is a problem. A state of the art product advertise itself.
    Last edited by ttThree; 10-09-2017 at 10:02 AM.

  22. #22
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    Wel ttThree, you are right in so many points. My maxx had me want to sell it and get a revo or outcast. But, in the end, its a truck that you can mold it to what you want it to be. I brought my maxx as a roller for 100. Someone told me that is the best way to do it. After the piggy back shocks 100$, rebuilt diffs 100$, trenchers 100$, extended17mm hex, body, RPM all around, cvd all around, and custom 1 and 1/8 extention 200$. Threw in a 2200kv i had from another car and brought 2 6s batteries 120..thats a total of 720.if anything brakes on it, it costs me around 7 dollars. I love the truck. Have a revo now and seem to still grab it over the revo. Maybe i got attached to it because i built it the way i like. And it handles better for the bashing i do. Foot tall grass, woods, ponds, sand, big gravel, thick mud. My revo cant handle half of this ( most other trucks cant handle most of this without upgrades). Sand and small rocks maybe, but NO MONSTER... So, im sticking with it and st2sying away from aluminum parts.
    Its a truck that you have to mold, but when you mold it, no other can mess with it, regardless what you do to them because there upgrades are very limited.BUT NOT THAT MAXX!!!
    Last edited by Montell; 10-10-2017 at 10:14 PM.

  23. #23
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    The way I look at it is there are things that a person will want for their Emaxx, and there is things a person will need for their Emaxx. Out of the mods I mention below...

    Just do the upgrades that some of us mentioned above, which are: body, wheels and tires, motor fan and heat sink, bumpers, axles and drives shafts, bearings, strapped battery trays, shimmed/bushing differentials, and shocks.
    ...the only things that is really a needed for an Emaxx with 6s is the steel drive shafts, steel axles, diff shims, diff bushing, and the repacking of the diff bearings. All the other stuff mentioned by me and others are really wants.

    I do agree that when Traxxas upgraded the Emaxx to a 6s Castle system that they should of beefed up the drive train a tad, but the Emaxx is still a terrific truck. However, I don't agree that there are RTR trucks out there that you can just take out of the box, bash the heck out of them, and have them fare any better than the Emaxx.

    I say that because, I have friends that have the different trucks you can get on the market, and they don't run as well and as reliable as my sorted out Emaxx. They also have, the same out of the box problems I use to have when I first got my Emaxx...different parts, but the same assembled section problems.

    Anyway, the difference is, with their trucks they don't have the same after market support as we all have with our Traxxas Emaxx's. Needless to say, because of that, they don't have near the same potential as we do to correct the few engineering misgivings that are present in any RC vehicle.

    From what I've seen over the years, what RTR really means is that you can start playing with your new RC right away, but (down the road) you're always going to have to massage it in order for you to get the reliability you want from it for the way you play with it. That's just the way RC is, and I've seen that with boats, cars, trucks, and helicopters no matter what their make, color or religion. (lol)

    The only thing new guys have to be warned about is trying to make an RC bulletproof. It's never going to happen, so don't fall in that trap and waste your time and money. The only goal a new guy (with a new truck) should have is, to just make it pretty darn reliable and cheap and easy to fix.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 10-11-2017 at 04:47 PM.
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  24. #24
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    No RC will be "bullet" proof or perfect I grant you that. But there are more durable trucks in terms of drive line than the e-maxx or e-revo in stock form. If the e-maxx would be up to date then traxxas wouldn't lower the price from 649 to 569 recently. Competition is the answer to that question even though traxxas wont admit it openly. Their business model is not created that way it is created all around marketing and sales reps promoting the producs to penetrate the market, but there is just so much you can do to satisfy the customers. Now days there are probably around 10 1/8 scale MTs from different brands,2 years back there were 4 different brands in this segment. And even the lowest end brands offer higher quality drive line than the traxxas e-maxx.

    Traxxas needs to design a new 1/8 scale maxx truck and they need to make it state of the art for 700 dollars or so, so it can compete and even outclass the competitors. Or they can even make a power up for the current e-maxx, all it really needs is new bulkheads with differentials and possibly a center diff instead of transmission. I am sure traxxas can manufacture some decent 1/8 scale diffs in china for a decent price, all others are doing it.
    Last edited by ttThree; 10-12-2017 at 08:26 AM.

  25. #25
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    Traxxas needs to design a new 1/8 scale Maxx truck and they need to make it state of the art for 700 dollars or so, so it can compete and even outclass the competitors.
    I may be wrong (not that it matters), but I don't think the Emaxx is rated as a 1/8 scale truck. I think it's rated as a 1/10 truck. Anyway, I agree with you 100% that it would be nice if Traxxas would redo their Emaxx's drive train the way they did their Xmaxx. Not to say that Traxxas doesn't pull a boner every now and again, but I thought they did a pretty good job with the redo of the Xmaxx. That kind of thing would be great for the Emaxx.

    But, there are more durable trucks in terms of drive line than the E-Maxx or E-Revo in stock form.
    I still say though, that stock to stock the Emaxx (I don't know about the ERevo) is about the same reliability as the other MT's out there...so, with that I have to disagree. The reason why I have to disagree is, because between my friends and I we all have the different MT makes. And, when we first started playing together (with all our new stuff), all our stuff broke about the same time.

    They all didn't break the same way (some did), but I have to tell you (what I seen with my own to eyes) that all our trucks fared about the same. The only difference was some of the trucks were easier to get parts for, and some of the trucks were easier to correct their misgivings. By far, me and some of the other guys who ran/run Emaxx's had the best of both worlds. We had/have a better selection of OEM/after market parts to choose from, and our Emaxx's were/are easier for us to modify our way into having a more reliable rig.

    Some of the MT makes represented between all of us big kids were and still are (hopefully, I can mention them) is Associated, Axial, Exceed, HPI, Kyosho, ARRMA, NitroRCX, Horizon, Yeti, and Losi...just to name a few.

    Over the years, my friends (who own Traxxas trucks) has grown from three to seven. That's seven out of the eleven of us. A few more might come on board, because they like what I did with my Xmaxx and my XO-1, and they're thinking about getting them. They also like how us Traxxas owners are able to get parts and modify our stuff easier than the other RC companies.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 10-12-2017 at 05:49 PM.
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