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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Installing tekno m6 driveshafts on the slash platinum

    As the title says. I need HELP!!
    I tried looking on youtube for installation guides but they were all missing jumping over parts of the installation. I'm really uncertain on how to proceed. I have lockthread at hand but do I need to oil/ grease any parts at this stage?

    I need video instructions cause even though the manual that comes along seems simple enough I have a really hard time figuring out how to assemble the driveshafts

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    No need to lube the cups or dogbones.

    I haven't watched it, but here's a video I found:



    Good luck!
    Last edited by Squeegie; 10-12-2017 at 12:53 PM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    This one might be better:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  4. #4
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    I have tried to work it out using that video but no luck

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Just look at the drawings on their instructions and they go together easily:

    Front:
    http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ctions-new.pdf

    Rear:
    http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ctions_new.pdf

    Just make sure to line-up the holes to pins from the driveshaft to stub axle.
    I think that is the trickiest part of the install.

    Generally, thread lock is used for metal to metal.

    What is your exact problem? Maybe someone can answer if you ask directly...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  6. #6
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    Yes, I think I got got it right. Just seems wierd that there is nothing holding the little pin in place. I'm guessing the stub axle is enough to keep it in place? I also get some washers along with the driveshafts. Where should I place these?

    I think I might be able to get them installed today. Gonna take a few hours though

    Thanks all the help!!

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Yes, I think I got got it right. Just seems wierd that there is nothing holding the little pin in place. I'm guessing the stub axle is enough to keep it in place? I also get some washers along with the driveshafts. Where should I place these?

    I think I might be able to get them installed today. Gonna take a few hours though

    Thanks all the help!!
    The only thing keeping those pins in place are the bearings in the axle carriers when using the full tekno kit.
    As for the washers I'm not 100% certain cause I don't run the full kit but I would guess they go between the outer bearing and the pin that holds the hex in place. Kinda like the stock set up again only guessing.
    Last edited by Er33; 10-13-2017 at 12:23 AM.

  8. #8
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    Awesome, thanks.

    Should I be using the 0,5 or the 1,5 hubs? The instructiona it says I should use the the hubs numbers facing forward/rearward.
    They are refering to the degree numbers on the hubs. right??

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Yes, the numbers (.5 or 1.5).

    How you set them changes the rear toe of your truck.

    Read the manual on the top right side. It tells you which hubs to use and which way to face them to achieve 1, 2, 3, or 4˚ of toe.

    My rig has 1˚ (1.5 hubs with the numbers facing rearward).

    How you set them is up to you and your preference... try it and change it if you don't like the way it handles.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  10. #10
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    After removing the turnbuckles I cannot remember which way they were. There are numbers on them. Both ends look similar, is there any difference?
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-13-2017 at 03:43 AM.

  11. #11
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    Easy 15 minute job they said. Took me 4 hours andALOT of help just to change the the rear shafts������ I must be challenged somehow

    Also what aluminum parts can I keep when changing the front axles, if any?
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-13-2017 at 04:59 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Easy 15 minute job they said. Took me 4 hours andALOT of help just to change the the rear shafts������ I must be challenged somehow
    wow they are not easy to put together, and I thought that the mip's X-duty were tough to put together because it took me over 3 and a half hours for the 4 of them
    Last edited by Blademael; 10-13-2017 at 07:26 AM.
    One Stampede and one TRX4

  13. #13
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    Seems like I cant use the platinum parts for the front drive shafts which kind off sucks..,
    Can i use the the ones from my stampede on the slash lcg?

    Also, is there any difference between the front and the rear stock traxxas driveshafts?

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Seems like I cant use the platinum parts for the front drive shafts which kind off sucks..,
    Can i use the the ones from my stampede on the slash lcg?

    Also, is there any difference between the front and the rear stock traxxas driveshafts?
    The axles are different. The front are a little longer than the rear. The front has two different size bearings. The rear uses two 5x11x4 bearings.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Odd... it only took me about 30-40 minutes when I did mine.

    BTW: You can still use your stock aluminum front c-hubs (castor blocks).
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  16. #16
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    Yeah I noticed that just now. Since I can't install the Tekno front driveshafts with the platinum parts I was thinking about running the stock ones up front for now.

    Or can I use the stock parts from the stampede in the front on my lcg slash??

    I also that there is a slight resistance/binding when spenning the front drive shaft. I can spin in for almost 360 degrees and at the end of each turn there is a sligt resistance, is this normal??

  17. #17
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    You have to remember that I'm having trouble putting an ike chair togehter so you can only image the struggel this gives me.
    I tried using the aluminum castor blocks but tekno steering block has no play whatsoever if I tighten it down. The aluminum one moves freely...

  18. #18
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    Double post...

  19. #19
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    Ok, so I got the car assembled after working almost non-stop for 10 hours on it. I got the rear driveshaft assembled but the front was giving me huge problems.

    The steering block was not fitting well with the aluminum caster blocks. So instead I opted to mount the plastic stock ones from my older slash.

    The plastic driveshaft that goes in the front are the ones with the shorter silver pin, right. I tried installing the longer ones first but there was alot of slack between the hex and the steering block. The shorter fitted perfect. Correct?

    I checked the traxxas homepage and all the parts from the older slash 4x4 should match the platinum one. But I think I messed up with the turnbuckles. Is there any differnce on which goes left and which one right? I could see they were numbered but I'm uncertain if I got them on right??

    How is the tekno drive cup held in place at the differential. Only by the stock screw pin?

    I'm so uncertain of even testing the car cause I'm afraid I will brake something on it. If somebody could please answer my questions it would make my day!!!!
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-13-2017 at 01:25 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Ok, so I got the car assembled after working almost non-stop for 10 hours on it. I got the rear driveshaft assembled but the front was giving me huge problems.

    The steering block was not fitting well with the aluminum caster blocks. So instead I opted to mount the plastic stock ones from my older slash.

    The plastic driveshaft the goes in the front are the ones with the shorter silver pin, right?? The one that attaches to hex and wheel

    I checked the traxxas homepage and all the parts from the older slash 4x4 should match the platinum one. But I think I messed up with the turnbuckles. Is there any differnce on which goes left and which one right? I could see they were numbered but I'm uncertain if I got them on right??

    How is the tekno drive cup held in place at the differential. Only by the stock screw pin?

    I'm so uncertain of even testing the car cause I'm afraid I will brake something on it. If somebody could please answer my questions it would make my day!!!!
    Exactly which tekno kit did you purchase? This should be easier to install! Let's start from the top. I'll number my questions, you number your answers to match the questions.

    1. What tekno kit was purchased?
    2. What carrier, hubs and steering blocks are you trying to use? (Front and rear)
    3. Are you trying to go 17mm hex?

    Let's start with that
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  21. #21
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    Thanks!!!

    1. Tekno RC M6 Front & Rear Driveshafts & Steering Block Set Stampede/Slash 4x4. These:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-RC-M6-...53.m2749.l2649

    2. I used the tekno supplied rear hub carrier (I have the aluminun ones also) in the back.
    In front I tried using the aluminum steering block and casterblock. The bearing in the aluminum steering block is too small to fit the tekno driveshaft. I trieed the tekno steering block into the caster block and I did get it on there but there was no movement as I tightened it down.

    3. No
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-13-2017 at 01:37 PM.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks!!!

    1. Tekno RC M6 Front & Rear Driveshafts & Steering Block Set Stampede/Slash 4x4. These:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-RC-M6-...53.m2749.l2649

    2. I used the tekno supplied rear hub carrier (I have the aluminun ones also) in the back.
    In front I tried using the aluminum steering block and casterblock. The bearing in the aluminum steering block is too small to fit the tekno driveshaft. I trieed the tekno steering block into the caster block and I did get it on there but there was no movement as I tightened it down.

    3. No
    Awesome! Makes this alot easier.

    1. All good, correct kit.

    2. I'll assume your ok with the rear axle.
    For the front. If you want to keep aluminum, buy XO-1 steering and castor blocks. These will take the bearings that come with your tekno kit. For now you can put the plastic ones that came with the kit on so you can go have fun. Your stock aluminum ones will not work, I wouldn't drive it like that.
    3. Give it time you will


    Here's how it should look with XO-1 aluminum up front. The rear has the plastic tekno carriers, never really a problem, they hold up well.

    Good luck, remember, keep having fun!

    Also if you have more questions feel free to ask
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I wish I would have taken pictures of my front with the Platinum C-hubs (castor blocks). I just changed them out for the Black aluminum Hot Racing C-hubs a few days ago (Monday or Tuesday).
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  24. #24
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    Thank you for the help!!!

    A few more questions though.

    1. Should i put the drive shafts with the longer or shorter silver pins up front

    2 The stock plastic driveshafts have a rectangulat fitting with the differential while the tekno has a round diff cup. Wont that put alot of strain on the stock screw??

    3. The turnbuckles. Does it matter which way they are screwed on??

  25. #25
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    And believe me. I’m trying to have fun but since buying the stampede 2 months ago I have propably spent 50 hours doing repairs. The longest I have been able to drive is about 30 minutes before something goes wrong. That is the reason Im so stressed about getting this right since I would like to spend more time driving it instead of repairing it...

    I will take some pictures tonight for you guys to judge. I’m pretty certain I have gotten it together right but I just want to make 100% sure!!!

    Thanks for helping a newbie out!!!
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-14-2017 at 12:40 AM.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thank you for the help!!!

    A few more questions though.

    1. Should i put the drive shafts with the longer or shorter silver pins up front

    2 The stock plastic driveshafts have a rectangulat fitting with the differential while the tekno has a round diff cup. Wont that put alot of strain on the stock screw??

    3. The turnbuckles. Does it matter which way they are screwed on??
    No problem buddy. Sometimes we just need to take a breath and walk away. A new day brings new perspective. Ok let's go.
    1. Which pins are you referring to? The dog bones as far as I know are the same front and rear, where ever you have them I would say leave it.

    2. I agree with your thought on that. However I have never had one break, even with a big 1/8th scale motor. Don't worry about it, you'll be fine.

    3. Some turn buckles, yes it does matter. Other turn buckles no it doesn't. If both ends are the same, and have the same metal piece on the end it doesn't matter. However if you look at the line notched in the middle where you use your wrench to turn it, that line should be orientated the same as the others (to the right or left)
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  27. #27
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    Thanks for the answers. I’m getting more and more confident that I have gotten the installation right. I will take pics later just to verify.
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-14-2017 at 09:32 AM.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Without seeing the pics, it sounds OK.
    Would be great to finally see your rig!

    Have to ask... why did you take the turnbuckles completely off?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  29. #29
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    Im kinda bummed that I paid extra for the aluminum parts and now I cant even use them. But that does not really matter as long as the slash with it’s driveshafts would be correctly installed and that I could finally start driving it����

    I took of the turnbuckles because the were in my way when I was trying to get the driveshafts installed.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Im kinda bummed that I paid extra for the aluminum parts and now I cant even use them. But that does not really matter as long as the slash with it’s driveshafts would be correctly installed and that I could finally start driving it����

    I took of the turnbuckles because the were in my way when I was trying to get the driveshafts installed.
    The tekno plastics are pretty Stout. Eventually the front steering blocks might go, but hey, there's your excuse to get the xo-1 alluminium one's right? Get out there and drive that thing!
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  31. #31
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    Ok, so here goes. I just put in an aluminum bearing adapter, put in a brand new spur and got the car back together. Here are some pics:
    https://imgur.com/a/mxlWt

    Compared the camber links to the old slash and they were on the same way as I have mine now. I took pictures of both the right and left rear camber links just in case. I did not take of the front ones so not worried about those.

    I took a little test drive inside the house and I was running just fine. The real test is tomorrow when I'm going to the track. It's almost an hours drive and evertime I have been there I have been able to drive for max 20 minutes before something goes wrong. I'm really hoping that all is well and things that the car will hold up. Please comment if you see something wrong in the pics.

    Otherwise I will report back tomorrow.

    And yes I probably will get the x0-1 alminum one in time, but for now I just wanna drive the darn thing

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier FnFancy's Avatar
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    Looks good brother! Have fun tomorrow and let us know how it goes.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Ok, so here goes. I just put in an aluminum bearing adapter, put in a brand new spur and got the car back together. Here are some pics:
    https://imgur.com/a/mxlWt
    Looks OK to me, too.
    However, I do have one recommendation: Tekno's 12mm plastic hex adapters are no good - they are too soft. Do yourself a favour and get the aluminium ones.
    http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1654x...d-ae-sc10-4x4/

  34. #34
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    Well I just got back and it was a rough start. I had forgotten to tighten down the rear bumper and after a jump the blue metal piece came loose. I got all the screws back in and after that the front wheels were not rolling. I could spin them in the air but when i pushed the throttle nothing happened. Just as if they were stuck somehow.

    I took the rear part of and checked the slipper clutch. No problems there. Then I reasembled the car and worked just fine I’m just curious to know what was wrong with the front wheels??

    Also the chassis is now biting down on the tires much more than before installing the driveshafts. Anybody know why and if there is some way to fix it?

  35. #35
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    Could I use the traxxas alumin hexes or do they have to be the tekno ones??

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Could I use the traxxas alumin hexes or do they have to be the tekno ones??
    The Tekno hexes have a 6mm bore versus 5mm on the Traxxas ones. It's possible to drill out the Traxxas ones, but you'll have to be very careful to get them centered (use a drill press).

    Or you could get these (but the cost is higher):
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6869

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    The Tekno hexes have a 6mm bore versus 5mm on the Traxxas ones. It's possible to drill out the Traxxas ones, but you'll have to be very careful to get them centered (use a drill press).

    Or you could get these (but the cost is higher):
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6869

    Ok, thanks. I will just get the Tekno ones then!!

  38. #38
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    You're welcome!
    I've used the Tekno hexes for a couple of years, and they are very well made with perfect fitment. Just remember to use a tiny amount of threadlock on the clamping screw.

  39. #39
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    Thanks!!

    Do you think I could get more space between the tires and chassis by adjusting the rear hubs?? I did not have this problem with the stock driveshafts

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks!!

    Do you think I could get more space between the tires and chassis by adjusting the rear hubs?? I did not have this problem with the stock driveshafts
    There is alot more adjustments with the tekno rear hub so you may have to adjust mounting location and or turnbuckle length. Not sure where your tires are hitting the chassis but fine tunning may be needed.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

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