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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Well I just got back and it was a rough start. I had forgotten to tighten down the rear bumper and after a jump the blue metal piece came loose. I got all the screws back in and after that the front wheels were not rolling. I could spin them in the air but when i pushed the throttle nothing happened. Just as if they were stuck somehow.

    I took the rear part of and checked the slipper clutch. No problems there. Then I reasembled the car and worked just fine I’m just curious to know what was wrong with the front wheels??

    Also the chassis is now biting down on the tires much more than before installing the driveshafts. Anybody know why and if there is some way to fix it?
    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks!!

    Do you think I could get more space between the tires and chassis by adjusting the rear hubs?? I did not have this problem with the stock driveshafts
    I have no idea what is going on with your front end or why "the chassis is now biting down on the tires much more than before installing the driveshafts."

    Only thing I can think of is that maybe you are over-tightening the screws on the plastic parts. When putting screws into plastic, you should only tighten till snug. Over-tightening can lead to the plastic flexing or stripping out.

    Good luck!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  2. #42
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    There is alot more adjustments with the tekno rear hub so you may have to adjust mounting location and or turnbuckle length. Not sure where your tires are hitting the chassis but fine tunning may be needed.
    I'm having a eally hard time understanding how to set up the back and front. I'm looking for maximun controll of the car and don't care so much for speed. What kind of setup would you recommend??

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I have no idea what is going on with your front end or why "the chassis is now biting down on the tires much more than before installing the driveshafts."

    Only thing I can think of is that maybe you are over-tightening the screws on the plastic parts. When putting screws into plastic, you should only tighten till snug. Over-tightening can lead to the plastic flexing or stripping out.

    Good luck!
    I did not know that about tightening the screws into plastic, good info. Here a some pictures of the problem:

    https://opethrapture.imgur.com/all/

    Other than chewing up the chassi the car is running like a dream. I only flipped it around once during my time on the track.

    Tried turning down the TSM all the way down and noticed that the car does not turn as well. It's like it has a much wider turn radius when TSM is off??

  4. #44
    RC Racer FnFancy's Avatar
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    Google Slash 4x4 track set up. Although your personal set up and the way you like it to drive will be unique to you, you'll find some good starting points. Welcome to tuning my friend, the possibilities are endless! O and I couldn't see your pictures, the link took me to imgur home page. Try tapatalk, you can upload photos straight from your phone. Easy as pie.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  5. #45
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    I will give tapatalk a go, thanks for the advice. I look at the tekno setup guide but I have no idea what I'm looking at
    I have the front shafts still to go but looking at the manual regarding toe settings and bump steer I'm totally confused. I have no idea what to do if I want more toe in and bump steer? I don't even know what that means...

  6. #46
    RC Racer FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    I will give tapatalk a go, thanks for the advice. I look at the tekno setup guide but I have no idea what I'm looking at
    I have the front shafts still to go but looking at the manual regarding toe settings and bump steer I'm totally confused. I have no idea what to do if I want more toe in and bump steer? I don't even know what that means...
    Start with plain Jane. Front wheels pointing straight forward (0 tow) changing the toe changes how the car handles in specific parts or section of your turn. Bump steer refers to how the tires move during the suspension travel. Some guys tune to a track with it, others try to eliminate it all together. Like I said, every set up is very personal. Look at a Traxxas Slash set up from Traxxas. Start there. Read everything you can of your serious about tuning. I'm not, I just want the car to go where I point it. Also ask some guys at the track you go to. Most (hopefully) would be glad to help you out a little.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  7. #47
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    Thanks alot for the help. I’m not concerned about finetining the car either I just want to make sure I install everythin correctly.
    I still don’t have a clue on how to achieve the different toe and bump settings. I see the different options but how do I go about it??

    Thanks for beeing so patient. Im kind of a perfectionist with things I take seriously so I want to be sure I get it done right!!

  8. #48
    RC Racer FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opethrapture View Post
    Thanks alot for the help. I’m not concerned about finetining the car either I just want to make sure I install everythin correctly.
    I still don’t have a clue on how to achieve the different toe and bump settings. I see the different options but how do I go about it??

    Thanks for beeing so patient. Im kind of a perfectionist with things I take seriously so I want to be sure I get it done right!!
    Toe is adjusted by the steering links from your bell crank to your blocks. Now take this next part with a grain of salt.... Toe out (the front of both wheels pointing away from center) gives you more exit steering. The opposite, toe in, reverses it and you have more steering at the beginning. Bump steer is related to your camber and camber links as well as roll center. Longer links (mounting links farther away on the block) produces less camber gain through out suspension travel, but like all things related to RC tuning it does something else completely if there shorter (trying to recall what exactly?). Spend some time reading about camber, toe and caster (the big three).
    There's so much info out there that's worded much more eloquently than I could ever hope too.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  9. #49
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    So basically I can just install the steering blocks as the stock ones at first and fine tune later when I have a better idea of what I’m doing

    Are there any settings/parts I should mot be experimenting with?

    Still need to figure out how to stop the wheel from eating away the chassis. Worst case I will have to do some serious modifying of it
    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-16-2017 at 10:34 PM.

  10. #50
    RC Qualifier shack351's Avatar
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    "Still need to figure out how to stop the wheel from eating away the chassis."

    You got me curious on this one! Gonna run some 3.8s or something?

    -Shack

  11. #51
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    Haha. Definitely not. Stock tires have eaten 4 holes already in the chassis. Have no idea why??

    Current setup



    Here you can see where the tires are eating away:

    Last edited by opethrapture; 10-16-2017 at 10:44 PM.

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    That's the body... NOT the chassis.

    Simply get Pro-Line's extended body mount kit and lift the body a bit:
    https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...nts-slash-4x4/

    You can also adjust your suspension (pre-load on the shocks and/or shock mount positions).

    If you use tape on the inside of the body to block rubbing, use aluminum foil tape.
    Last edited by Squeegie; 10-16-2017 at 11:00 PM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  13. #53
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    Haha

    Thanks for clearing that. No wonder there has been confusion. Thank you so much for all the help!!

  14. #54
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    Wow, the front end of the driveshafts was a breeze to install when you know how to do it

    The hexes just slide onto the wheelpins really easy and don't require pressure at all before going into place. There was no "snap" compared to the traxxas ones. Is this normal, cause it feels kind of loose?

  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I don't remember for sure, but I think they fit loose like that. When your wheels are installed, they will keep it all nice and tight.

    BTW, those are not stock wheels/tires, but they are standard SC size.

    I don't know what tires you have, but the wheels look like Duratrax DTXC3824 wheels.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I don't remember for sure, but I think they fit loose like that. When your wheels are installed, they will keep it all nice and tight.

    BTW, those are not stock wheels/tires, but they are standard SC size.

    I don't know what tires you have, but the wheels look like Duratrax DTXC3824 wheels.
    Awesome, then everything should be fine

    Also installed the Pro-line body mount yesterday.

    And yes indeed those are mini-pin tires that I use for driving indoors on pavement. If it would just stop raining I would be able to take it outside and see how it performs with the stock tires.

    Once again I would like to thank everyone who helped me out. I would never have managed to get those drive shafts installed without your help!!!

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