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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    My P4de with the Castle 2650 runs fine on 2S LiPo. I love my SMC packs. My research has these packs as the best value currently.

    But I would get 3s packs and program the ESC to have the truck slower for the kids. This way the system will run more efficiently and can be reprogrammed to be fast when daddy wants.

    Here's the pack I recommend:
    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=463
    Obstacle Magnet

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I run SMC looks. They are 11.1v 7600 Mah! They are well overpowered and give good runtimes. You all know my vote is for the 2400 motor
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  3. #43
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I run SMC looks. They are 11.1v 7600 Mah! They are well overpowered and give good runtimes. You all know my vote is for the 2400 motor
    I just installed the Casltle 2200kv in my p4de and know i am liking it already, with just a work table run...... Got the 2650 in my rusty and def-efinitely loving that.....
    Choose Life !!!

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Well there is no "C" rating standard so I'm wondering where your math is coming from. If current is voltage divided by resistance,
    And the resistance is unknown.
    This being said always go higher C rating and higher mah
    C rating means that a battery is able to deliver an amperage of C-rating x it's capacity. So a 5000mAh (equals 5Ah) 50C should be able to deliver 50 x 5 = 250A and the 4500mAh 30C should do 30 x 4.5 = 135A.

    As far as a lack of C standard you are right when it comes to under which circumstances the calculated amperage is delivered in terms of how long it's able to deliver that amperage and at which voltage it can do it. There are no clear appointments or descriptions for the circumstances, but the math part is clear.
    Nobody is born with experience

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Castle 2400 or 2650 or other???

    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    C rating means that a battery is able to deliver an amperage of C-rating x it's capacity. So a 5000mAh (equals 5Ah) 50C should be able to deliver 50 x 5 = 250A and the 4500mAh 30C should do 30 x 4.5 = 135A.

    As far as a lack of C standard you are right when it comes to under which circumstances the calculated amperage is delivered in terms of how long it's able to deliver that amperage and at which voltage it can do it. There are no clear appointments or descriptions for the circumstances, but the math part is clear.
    No offense but the math is meaningless if the numbers don't represent a constant, and when did amp hours equal amps. More companies should rate their batteries like SMC with amp ratings clearly listed. This takes the unknown out of the equation.
    Last edited by Gripdog7205; 11-08-2017 at 02:25 PM.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Granted I am aware that an amp hour is a constant amp per hour. It with no C continuity between brands it's still a guessing game

  7. #47
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    So I ended up going with the GoolRC 2600 motor that grip recommended. It was only $22 on amazon, so I figured I would give it a try. Waiting for a gens ace 5000mAh "short" battery to come in. Going to start with 17/50 gearing and see how she does.

  8. #48
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yfzdr View Post
    So I ended up going with the GoolRC 2600 motor that grip recommended. It was only $22 on amazon, so I figured I would give it a try. Waiting for a gens ace 5000mAh "short" battery to come in. Going to start with 17/50 gearing and see how she does.
    Great call! You can't beat the price for that motor. Grip seems to be very happy with his. I put the 2200 castle in mine and am starting to think it is overkill. If there is a bright side. I won't have to worry about overheating. Once I get it out and bashing I cant wait to see whats going to break first. I am thinking the center drive shaft. I already have the Tekno dogbone waiting for backup. Have MIP xduty drive shafts so either the 12mm hexes will strip or something internal will give. I have 17mm HR adapters in case that happens. only time will tell.

    I have not taken it out yet but am getting impatient. been raining for 4 days....Good luck with your new motor setup and the most important thing. Have fun! by the way, I have 25/50 gearing with a 17 in waiting.
    Last edited by lektro; 11-09-2017 at 02:17 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    Yes... the GoolRC 2600kv motor is a good choice for the price and overall performance, loving mine too.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    Yes... the GoolRC 2600kv motor is a good choice for the price and overall performance, loving mine too.
    It's important to give Bige4u props. I got the motor because of his recommendation. The HW esc is awesome so far as well. The program card is well 13 bucks.

  11. #51
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    Thanks... but no needs for props, we're here to help each other with suggestions and fix it advice, just doing my part.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  12. #52
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    Thank you Bige4u and to everyone else that helped out. I did not buy the programming card, but maybe I should.

  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You don't have to it's just easier and quickest

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    No offense but the math is meaningless if the numbers don't represent a constant, and when did amp hours equal amps. More companies should rate their batteries like SMC with amp ratings clearly listed. This takes the unknown out of the equation.
    Not that it is mentioned on any battery, but apparently the C-rating has to be expressed in 1/h (a C-rating of 20 would mean your battery lasts 1/20 of an hour when it's discharged at the maximum possible current).

    I fully agree that just mentioning the maximum amperage would be more easy. You would still miss the circumstances that way tho.
    Nobody is born with experience

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bige4u View Post
    I started out with the XL-5 and imediately upgraded to the aluminum center driveshaft and XO-1 diffs after installing my brushless setup with a HW SC-8(esc) and GoolRC 2600kv 3660-550(motor)... it was pretty tame out the box, now its more than worthy on 3s and completely stupified on 4s.
    I have seen the XO-1 diffs mentioned on the forums a lot. I have been wondering is it better to just get the parts and build them myself or find them all together? If it is better to get them all together is there any recommendations where to get them? I know Ebay can be used, but I was hoping maybe someone has a specific supplier in mind.

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fenixis View Post
    I have seen the XO-1 diffs mentioned on the forums a lot. I have been wondering is it better to just get the parts and build them myself or find them all together? If it is better to get them all together is there any recommendations where to get them? I know Ebay can be used, but I was hoping maybe someone has a specific supplier in mind.
    You really just need the guts from what I've been told. They're faster, but you can achieve the same(similar)results from spur and pinion combos. Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    You really just need the guts from what I've been told. They're faster, but you can achieve the same(similar)results from spur and pinion combos. Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.
    So the XO-1 diffs change the f/r ratios? I though they where just made better quality?
    Stampede 4X4

  18. #58
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    According to the reviews the “I” bar is the key to better strength and reliability with this rebuild kit. Given it is lost cost upgrade I’ll be doing this in the future as well.

    Also with going BIG motors I assume it’s almost required to add heavier grease to the diff, I was thinking 100kW all around?
    Stampede 4X4

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bif24701 View Post
    According to the reviews the I bar is the key to better strength and reliability with this rebuild kit. Given it is lost cost upgrade Ill be doing this in the future as well.

    Also with going BIG motors I assume its almost required to add heavier grease to the diff, I was thinking 100kW all around?
    I run 100k

  20. #60
    RC Qualifier Bige4u's Avatar
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    Since im a light duty user towards my p4de.... after installing XO-1 diffs for the front and rear, i went back to the original 30k for both diffs, runs great for me.
    Bashing along @ 30mph...

  21. #61
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    Anyone ever tried out this combo from Hobbywing? It is the EzRun Max8 combo with their 2200kv motor.

    https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...ant=6409672580

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