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  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by GorgeRIT View Post
    VIC, what a phenomenal build. Thanks for sharing your great work. I'm curious about your LED strips and where you found the black versions? The green glow looks very cool under the body.

    Thanks,

    Chris H.
    Thx, I appreciate it... takes a lot of time to find out what you want..)) so far I’m very impressed of this setup. Only issue is after CarWash)) high water pressure is not good for bearings and diff oil.. I like to wash it there, less pressure and all is good

    Black stripes with green LED I found on Aliexpress, don’t remember the seller, many.. search for > 30cm LED strip, you find all colors... Ps, i have 35cm today, 30cm is ok..



    I’m preparing dbxl-e with camera to follow Xmaxx when I test it.., inside view it’s also quite fast...






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    Last edited by VIX; 03-15-2018 at 01:58 PM.

  2. #162
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    Temporarily installation of camera mount, Lego pice )) Iím searching for another GPS camera with better software, I want to see speed etc in the video, for Xmaxx )


  3. #163
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    Well, same problem with pinion, backed off again! Was trying to break 70+mph I didnít use red loctite, was recommended not until I decide gears.. Fastlanercs told he always use red loctite and heat it up to remove pinion screw, no problem. I was told the problem is temperature reaches 200C to remove the screw, shaft will be so hot and the motor will be damaged over 130C degrees, must be very carefully... 30P/45S works well, still enormous torque and speed.. I think low voltage issue is batteries, to low C rating, no issue with 100C. I will replace gears with mod 1.5, 20P/30S same as mod 1, 30P/45S and use red loctite.




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  4. #164
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    I have new gears, 25P/50S.. think better not use them and get same problem, better to wait for new gears mod 1.5 and use red loctite, not to have this problems... Ps I wanted to make small dent in the shaft (recommended here) but problem is the screws shape, can’t reach down enough, otherwise I would done it... until new gears arrive, will continue to cover the upper arms holes etc and make plates where its silver tape is, also good to cover i noticed.. will try green transparent acrylic plexiglass there.. cool! finally I can try the dbxl-e




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    Last edited by VIX; 03-17-2018 at 04:31 AM.

  5. #165
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    Ps, i thought hardened (twice) steel gears would be harder! Not for TP5860, to much power is never wrong

  6. #166
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    Motor upgrade advice X Maxx 8s TP Power

    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    Well, same problem with pinion, backed off again! Was trying to break 70+mph I didnít use red loctite, was recommended not until I decide gears.. Fastlanercs told he always use red loctite and heat it up to remove pinion screw, no problem. I was told the problem is temperature reaches 200C to remove the screw, shaft will be so hot and the motor will be damaged over 130C degrees, must be very carefully... 30P/45S works well, still enormous torque and speed.. I think low voltage issue is batteries, to low C rating, no issue with 100C. I will replace gears with mod 1.5, 20P/30S same as mod 1, 30P/45S and use red loctite.




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    Wonder what the root cause is for the gear backing off. Doesnít sound typical. There are plenty of people with big power not having repeated issues.

  7. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Wonder what the root cause is for the gear backing off. Doesn’t sound typical. There are plenty of people with big power not having repeated issues.
    +1, wonder same... vibrations or pinion/metal is not hard enough.. I’m surprised Spur gear has NO gears in a few places.. gone! sides are damaged after pinion backs off I understand.. weird. Maybe should try another manufacturers gears.. Kershaw/Nova or..?

    Ps, not many using big TPPower motors, not much feedback to understand whats wrong... maybe wrong loctite... I think Mod 1.5 gears will be better for this setup, Mod 1. seems to weak..hard to see on photo, even a few teeth are bended on the pinion as well..



    Otherwise all works



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    Last edited by VIX; 03-17-2018 at 10:34 AM.

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    +1, wonder same... vibrations or pinion/metal is not hard enough.. Iím surprised Spur gear has NO gears in a few places.. gone! sides are damaged after pinion backs off I understand.. weird. Maybe should try another manufacturers gears.. Kershaw/Nova or..?

    Ps, not many using big TPPower motors, not much feedback to understand whats wrong... maybe wrong loctite... I think Mod 1.5 gears will be better for this setup, Mod 1. seems to weak..hard to see on photo, even a few teeth are bended on the pinion as well..



    Otherwise all works



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    Iím running 46 tooth traxxas and 29 tooth Nova/Kershaw with a 5898. No issues yet.

  9. #169
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    Update, just communicated with Brian/Fastlanercs, great guy and support! Think I woke him up..)) He wrote i should use red loctite on set screws and let it cure for 4-5 hours, longer if climate is humid or cold.. I will use his Mod 1.5 gears with red loctite, see what happens


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  10. #170
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    I use red locktite also and if I need to remove pinion I just use a pencil tip in my soldering iron to heat up the grub screw. Typically I use a a new grub screw every time I remove one. They strip too easy.

  11. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I’m running 46 tooth traxxas and 29 tooth Nova/Kershaw with a 5898. No issues yet.
    I wish i also had non ) 5898 is 6500W and TP5860 is 15000W, stock motor 4000W (i think) therefore no issues for you..) Novarc don't sell Mod 1 or 1.5 gears.. any idea where to get quality Mod 1.5 gears?

  12. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by TripleSix View Post
    I use red locktite also and if I need to remove pinion I just use a pencil tip in my soldering iron to heat up the grub screw. Typically I use a a new grub screw every time I remove one. They strip too easy.
    Thx! I should have done it, this give me headache My luck! the car never breakdown on the way back, always far away... have to carry it back ))
    Last edited by VIX; 03-17-2018 at 12:01 PM.

  13. #173
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    Motor upgrade advice X Maxx 8s TP Power

    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    I wish i also had non ) 5898 is 6500W and TP5860 is 15000W, stock motor 4000W (i think) therefore no issues for you..) Novarc don't sell Mod 1 or 1.5 gears.. any idea where to get quality Mod 1.5 gears?
    No offense. I know youíve heard this before. But youíre not getting 1.5kv out of a Max5. Your motor is nice, donít get me wrong, but I have a 198 constant amp motor on a 200 amp esc. Seems more suited for each other. Matter a fact multiply 200x32=6800watts continuous. I may try a TP motor down the road but the leopard certianly is impressive so far.
    Last edited by Gripdog7205; 03-17-2018 at 01:22 PM.

  14. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    No offense. I know youíve heard this before. But youíre not getting 1.5kv out of a Max5. Your motor is nice, donít get me wrong, but I have a 198 constant amp motor on a 200 amp esc. Seems more suited for each other. Matter a fact multiply 200x32=6800watts continuous. I may try a TP motor down the road but the leopard certianly is impressive so far.
    Sorry if I offended you, mention this 1.5kv topic again.. if your happy with your setup itís great! Iím curious how you get more continuous power then Leopard write, Max power 6500W for 5898/3D 32V.

    All I can say, whatever hp Iím getting, Iím having issues not to wheelie 60mph under half throttle, think it says it all.. I didnít notice any difference in torque/acceleration from 25P/50S to 30P/45S, only higher speed, thatís require power.. hopefully I will be able to test it soon/data and all questions will be answered..

    Same when I had sport cars, big difference in performance vs claimed on papers vs brands.. only real race can tell


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  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    Sorry if I offended you, mention this 1.5kv topic again.. if your happy with your setup itís great! Iím curious how you get more continuous power then Leopard write, Max power 6500W for 5898/3D 32V.

    All I can say, whatever hp Iím getting, Iím having issues not to wheelie 60mph under half throttle, think it says it all.. I didnít notice any difference in torque/acceleration from 25P/50S to 30P/45S, only higher speed, thatís require power.. hopefully I will be able to test it soon/data and all questions will be answered..

    Same when I had sport cars, big difference in performance vs claimed on papers vs brands.. only real race can tell


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    No offense taken. Iím a bit confused about your question, but I think thatís the language thing. If youíre speaking about the 6800 Watts, thatís just the maximum the Max5 will produce continuously. I think your ride is done very well, I was just stating facts. I have another car for raw speed and donít rely on a monster truck for that. TPP puts out some truly awesome motors, and you should be proud of your ride, I hope you figure out how to get it more reliable.

  16. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    No offense taken. I’m a bit confused about your question, but I think that’s the language thing. If you’re speaking about the 6800 Watts, that’s just the maximum the Max5 will produce continuously. I think your ride is done very well, I was just stating facts. I have another car for raw speed and don’t rely on a monster truck for that. TPP puts out some truly awesome motors, and you should be proud of your ride, I hope you figure out how to get it more reliable.
    Thx for input, I don't think anyone regardless of motor choice using 200A continuously, would drain your batteries fast! Max5 has 1300A Peak current, full throttle maybe used under load or for 3-5sec Max at top speed when it needs higher peak current.. dont think your calculation reflect what I'm getting out in real.. just my opinion. That pinion backing off (maybe wrong loctite) i don't regard as not reliable, when something expensive breaks, then its a issue for me )

  17. #177
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    because I mentioned sport cars, I remember people mentioned 0-62mph, only 3.9s..etc. (tires couldnít handle the power) vs this and that car.. in real, all those other cars was like meeting a car in opposite direction)) I like Jeremy TopGear review it, screams goosebumps!))

    I doubt most people ever saw this car, enjoy!



    Xmaxx is cool too, not for real speed



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  18. #178
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    Vix, I know this is off topic but your rides are nice. Ever thought about a traxxas udr interior for the xmaxx? It would be a sweet upgrade

  19. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    Thx for input, I don't think anyone regardless of motor choice using 200A continuously, would drain your batteries fast! Max5 has 1300A Peak current, full throttle maybe used under load or for 3-5sec Max at top speed when it needs higher peak current.. dont think your calculation reflect what I'm getting out in real.. just my opinion. That pinion backing off (maybe wrong loctite) i don't regard as not reliable, when something expensive breaks, then its a issue for me )
    Like I said. I love my truck, and think yours is sweet too. Iím looking forward to your solution. If you canít drive it,íitís broke , if it happens repeatedly, itís unreliable, super powerful and fast but unreliable

  20. #180
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    Did you try to spot drill the Axle so the gear cannot move? It don’t need to be deep just so ther is no possible movement once the screw is set? Now if the screw is set it can slide off the axle due to the metal hardness of the axle beeing softer than the screw. If you have access to someone with either a mill or a drill press it shouldn’t be hard to clamp up and use a 90degree spot drill.

  21. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by minim View Post
    Did you try to spot drill the Axle so the gear cannot move? It donít need to be deep just so ther is no possible movement once the screw is set? Now if the screw is set it can slide off the axle due to the metal hardness of the axle beeing softer than the screw. If you have access to someone with either a mill or a drill press it shouldnít be hard to clamp up and use a 90degree spot drill.
    Thx, I will leave the car to the hobby shop owner, he will drill and install everything.. heís a former rc Pro.. Ps, this is my first 2 rc cars.. didnít even buy them for me, just became mine

    I guess most people understand Iím not looking for reliable car and think I can do a better job then Traxxas.. even stock cars has issues. Iím building a powerful monster truck for fun and expect issues.. quite few so far and most drive parts are stock 8S.. I think it will still do wheelies on demand over 70mph and accelerate very fast... I prefer to see performance over calculated numbers. Fastlanercs also told this setup is another league, he works with all top brands and test and receive feedback, I take his word for it, also I see what my car does, ridiculous torque and speed.

    I guess some people like to see what I do, few more pics.. tried chrome paint lite more..







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  22. #182
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    Motor upgrade advice X Maxx 8s TP Power

    I understand your points and have gotten some good ideas from you. I may try the TP 5850 as my next motor itís specs are still really good, and I could keep my current chassis layout. I enjoy your attention to detail, such as the wheel paint. Please donít think Iím attempting to demote your ride at all, Iím not.
    Last edited by Gripdog7205; 03-18-2018 at 08:05 AM.

  23. #183
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    VIX, Thanks for the help. I quickly found a set on ebay. Waiting on a switch to wire it in but, your example looks great.

  24. #184
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    So adding my theory into the gear destruction on the spur when the pinion starts to slide off the motor shaft; as the gear mesh starts to decrease from 100% engaged to lower and lower engagement as the pinion slides, the teeth are subjected to higher and higher loads (same load across smaller area really). The teeth on either pinion or spur could break. As for the pinion set (aka grub) screw backing out, I'm guessing that under these high loads a single flat spot on the shaft and small area of contact that a set screw makes on that flat spot result in high stress on that interface. I also wonder if set screw hardness and quality comes into play with softer more prone to loosening up. Helical gears would be cool to see for these but, you have to deal with thrust forces. You would get the benefit of stronger teeth and quieter gear noise though.

  25. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I understand your points and have gotten some good ideas from you. I may try the TP 5850 as my next motor it’s specs are still really good, and I could keep my current chassis layout. I enjoy your attention to detail, such as the wheel paint. Please don’t think I’m attempting to demote your ride at all, I’m not.
    Thx..i also like to follow your thread. i don't know if TP motors is a better choice or not, also access to service is important. TP5850 is what Fastlanercs recommend me for Xmaxx. TP5860/70 give you issues, need MGM ESC to fullly benefit them...most parts wont handle full potential of these motors.
    Last edited by VIX; 03-19-2018 at 03:22 AM.

  26. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by GorgeRIT View Post
    So adding my theory into the gear destruction on the spur when the pinion starts to slide off the motor shaft; as the gear mesh starts to decrease from 100% engaged to lower and lower engagement as the pinion slides, the teeth are subjected to higher and higher loads (same load across smaller area really). The teeth on either pinion or spur could break. As for the pinion set (aka grub) screw backing out, I'm guessing that under these high loads a single flat spot on the shaft and small area of contact that a set screw makes on that flat spot result in high stress on that interface. I also wonder if set screw hardness and quality comes into play with softer more prone to loosening up. Helical gears would be cool to see for these but, you have to deal with thrust forces. You would get the benefit of stronger teeth and quieter gear noise though.
    Thx, good you find LED.. will be cool! I agree with your... Thats a great idea! Helical gears, didn't know i could use it, will contact a seller and ask if they have or can build what i need, would be cool to try.. otherwise I'm going Mod. 1.5 and make a dent in the shaft, or modify it to use two screws (pinion has two holes) if possible.. also red loctite this time.
    Last edited by VIX; 03-19-2018 at 03:07 AM.

  27. #187
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    It seems hard to find Helical gears, want big orders to produce them.. any ideas who could sell them?

    Meanwhile waiting for Mod. 1.5 gears, will do covers for front and rear, ordered 3mm in green/black (lower right corner, and black upper left) to try first with anti scratch protection ) Prototype now to see that body fits.. make a few to see what I like dirt comes inside throw these holes too.. so far it’s been clean inside



    Prototype.. just started )


    For upper arms holes outside, use rubber plates..




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    Last edited by VIX; 03-19-2018 at 05:41 AM.

  28. #188
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    Fastlanercs out of gears until end of next week.. don't want to wait!! can anyone recommend another reseller? Novarc don't sell any Mod 1 or 1.5 gears like Kershaw did..

  29. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    Fastlanercs out of gears until end of next week.. don't want to wait!! can anyone recommend another reseller? Novarc don't sell any Mod 1 or 1.5 gears like Kershaw did..
    You sure? Thatís where I got mine. Maybe it was back stock.

  30. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    You sure? Thatís where I got mine. Maybe it was back stock.
    I tried to order from Kershaw, online.. not working. Novarc, i can't find and Mod 1, or 1.5 gears on the website. Don't think he sell any yet..

  31. #191
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    Started to cut a transparent plastic (iPad cover) to understand how it should fit, test now" later it will be black rubber/plastic. I covered the inside first from above, after around the arm before the plastic cover. It’s quite tight around steering, no issues.. I will try to make the cover 90 degrees at the steering, not for dirt to come up or in contact with the soft protection... I think nothing will come inside when I’m ready doesn’t look good now, under construction...






    I will cut plastic pieces to cover the inside before I add the soft cover not to get any water up if it’s wet...

    More chrome paint...




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    Last edited by VIX; 03-19-2018 at 08:06 PM.

  32. #192
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    Not ready...hopefully it will look like stock part later.. most important it works


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  33. #193
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    Also covered last front hole, not for anything to come up throw these 3 holes, all inside done.. just around steering I want it better..







    Still, prototype outside, added more sticky stuff)) hard to remove... almost black.. will be better later with real plates, thinking of different materials


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    Last edited by VIX; 03-20-2018 at 04:21 AM.

  34. #194
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    The acrylic plexiglass looks awesome, still protection on them.. love the glowing sides will cover upper front and rear where it was silver tape, maybe replace all center plates as well.. if needed I cover them with carbon folie and leave glowing sides just fun to try...




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  35. #195
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    All upper arm holes are covered, testing remains) I donít think Any screws will be needed. water is no issue, easy to wash off any dirt around steering. I need gears and test everything, no dirt inside anymore






    Will replace all soft isolation with black before new covers will be installed.. very fast to install all this without screws..)


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  36. #196
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    I redone rear outside covers, tighter now, will modify the rear angle little and extend it for full cover later, final version)

    Thought I share for people tired of cleaning and thinking of doing same... just this mod is easy and it works, of course you need a dust cover as well.. I was thinking of similar solution as dust cover around inside holes, water and dust always comes in, I did plates instead..




    With body on, hardly see them.. little thick now because of all sticky stuff under, later I might use same or something else depending of choice of material for covers.


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  37. #197
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    Installing Mod 1, 50S/25P to try performance and battery times.. until Mod 1.5 arrives. Not to zip tie shocks every time to prevent wheelies)) ordered Integy suspension limiter... looks cool I saw few people using cvd axel boots, ordered few different to try on both sides... also decided to add a Proline tow strap inside the car, will modify little, never there otherwise when you need it, tired of carrying this heavy monster after pinion backs off hopefully next week, all new mods ready to test again




    Mesh is not done..

    Redone rear cover again, cover under the arm better now..



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  38. #198
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    Decided to modify battery holders, just did 3 holes total. Now I can use stock holder or straps, with any size of battery... cool took me 15 minutes to do one side...Ps, i can reinstall stock holder and use straps (not lock stock holder), when needed (pull them throw the holes) or lock both same time for extreme )) Nice with two in one! )






    Will find cooler straps with green text or smth


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    Last edited by VIX; 03-22-2018 at 11:24 AM.

  39. #199
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    Now with strap and stock holders, 5 minutes change.. now I can use Integy green alu holder and straps same time, problem solved






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    Though I show how I cut the holders, if someone want to do the same.. only 1 screw on top and 2 under the chassi to remove them... became some marks when I removed them, use something between pulling them out.





    Not perfect, works looks quite good without stock holder, with batteries inside )


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    Last edited by VIX; 03-23-2018 at 05:01 AM.

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