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  1. #1
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    Street Slash suspension setup?

    Hey all,

    My son just got a Slash 4x4. I inherited his Slash 2wd, and I am going to convert it to a street-only truck. All Iíve done so far is put limiters in the shocks to lower the truck. Iíve only driven it a couple of times, and itís a handful. The rear has trouble staying in line, which was not a problem before I lowered it. Itís bad enough that I canít put down any throttle in corners, and I even have to be careful at low to medium speeds in a straight line. Itís using a brushed setup, so itís not overpowered. Iím a 1:1 car racer, so I know how to dial out oversteer on the track, but Iím a little stumped how the Slashís behavior changed so drastically with a simple lowering.

    What would be the recommendation to fix this? Itís already running on Street Fighter tires, and I do have various springs and shock oils available.

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Check the camber especially the rear. The camber changes as the suspension goes through its range of travel, so by lowering it it probably gained negative camber when at rest. Also remove the bottom shock mount screw and make sure the arms are moving freely and there is no binding when the shock is detached. Maybe a hollow ball mount is jammed on a hollow ball.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
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    I use gtr shocks from an e revo on my street slash. I configured my proline arms, links, and xo1 rear carriers such that there is almost no toe-in (rear), it feels better at high speed and doesn't eat up tires as fast. Camber is set so there is no negative angle at rest, and shock preload adjusted so the car's weight makes the shocks sag slightly, soft enough so small bumps dont kick up the wheels.

    For me, the biggest difference in performance is the body. If the body catches a lot of air underneath then the rear can become impossible to control. Ive been using a sedan body (subaru impreza) and when I installed a spoiler the car became impossible to spin above a certain speed. Before the wing I had a decent sized cutout behind the rear window, I think it was catching a lot of air, creating turbulence and just enough lift to make it all squirrely. I heard people cut vents on stock bodies to improve aerodynamics, I think there are some videos you could find on it.

  4. #4
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    This is frustrating. I checked the rear camber, which wasn’t bad at 2 degrees, but I decreased it to about 0.5 at rest just to see if that helped. I also pulled the shocks to make sure there wasn’t any binding in the suspension range, and that was fine. I drove it, and still no change in its behavior. It was impossible to put down power in anything other than a straight line, and even then it wouldn’t take full throttle at anything less than probably 15 mph. I stiffened the front sway bar to see if that would help; it did not help, and it just made the truck understeer worse when trying to turn. Then, shortly before the battery was done, the stock servo stripped and ended my day.

    So currently, I can’t put down power because it oversteers, and I can’t turn well because it understeers. Since I would now have to buy a servo, I am THIS close to just giving up on this truck and getting something better suited for street use. I know there are better chassis for this, but I was trying to use what I already had. I don’t want to have to diagnose handling problems, I just want to get out there and enjoy the car.

  5. #5
    RC Racer rcdabbler's Avatar
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    Is that an LCG chassis, or HCG? I have a 2WD LCG set up for street, and it does really well, running a 3900KV with a 2S LiPo, and topping out around 35-40 mph. I have the rear shocks mounted to the closest hole to the hub on the a-arm, and the inmost hole on the shock tower, with pretty firm springs, and about 50 wt shock oil. I would divulge more info, but if you're running an HCG chassis, it'll be irrelevant, and I'll surely recommend an LCG conversion.

  6. #6
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Hmm, my best guess is something in the drivetrain is not allowing it to rotate both wheels at the same speed. Maybe a bad bearing, or something jammed in the diff or a driveshaft. I'd pull the pinion gear and check both wheels are turning smoothly and the diff works properly.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdabbler View Post
    Is that an LCG chassis, or HCG? I have a 2WD LCG set up for street, and it does really well, running a 3900KV with a 2S LiPo, and topping out around 35-40 mph. I have the rear shocks mounted to the closest hole to the hub on the a-arm, and the inmost hole on the shock tower, with pretty firm springs, and about 50 wt shock oil. I would divulge more info, but if you're running an HCG chassis, it'll be irrelevant, and I'll surely recommend an LCG conversion.
    Sorry, I forgot to mention it before, but it is the LCG chassis. My rear shocks are in the same position as yours, although they are using the stock springs and oil for now. The only mods to the truck are the lowered shocks, LCG chassis, and HR front sway bar. I think I will check for driveline issues like Razor suggested, then remove the shock limiters to see if it still handles like it did before (which was normal). Thanks!

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    I made a battery tray ramp out of thin plywood. I put strong Velcro on the ramp and my batteries. For street use I run the battery WAY forward. This truck is made to drift on dirt. In order to get the frontend to bite on the street the only solution I found was moving weight forward.

  9. #9
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Maybe the front sway bar could be locking down the front suspension and not allowing it to actuate properly. Try taking that off too.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Maybe the front sway bar could be locking down the front suspension and not allowing it to actuate properly. Try taking that off too.
    I agree with removing the front sway. Stiffer total spring rate = less traction. An older 911 had a huge front sway to help with snap oversteer. They were heavily rear biased like our 2wd Slash's.
    Letting off the gas mid corner at high speeds in a 911 could prove disasterious. So the large front sway was an attempt to let the front push not allowing the rearend to swing around so hard.
    Last edited by Bashnslash; 01-20-2018 at 01:13 PM.

  11. #11
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    I had a similar issue with a LCG 2wd ended up being the toe, too much toe in was my problem.
    IG: @818sFastestRC
    Slash 4x4 138MPH

  12. #12
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    I'm in a similar boat. I'm considering getting a TSM receiver and transmitter, or the spektrum one.

    I didn't know about using the Revo shocks. You've piqued my interest though.

  13. #13
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CeleryMan View Post
    I'm in a similar boat. I'm considering getting a TSM receiver and transmitter, or the spektrum one.

    I didn't know about using the Revo shocks. You've piqued my interest though.
    Hopefully you don't need TSM, but if you want stability control I think the Spektrum DX5C is a really, really good radio. Much better than the TQi. I've owned both, and there is no comparison.

    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Yep sway bars reduce traction at the end they are mounted to. If this is brushed, it should be pretty hard to break the rear end free under power with those tires.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

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