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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    How many of you have never broken an axle stub?

    This was the second part that I broke on my slash, first was the rear bumper but I was running in very cold temps and I think it made the plastic brittle. The axle stub broke at 50+ deg C during an awkward landing from only 12-18 inches. It landed with all its weight on the axle that broke while yaw'ed about 30-45 degrees and traveling about 20 mph. Not extreme conditions.

    I have had this axle nut back off on a previous run so I think I may have over tightened it. I debated on replacing with MIP but the replacement stub is on $6. If this becomes a consistent problem then the MIP option is back on the table. I am hoping that it was over-tightened and the axles are durable enough to survive awkward landing from small jumps.

    Also, I wish someone made a direct replacement stub that has a solid axle with a simple flat-spot so I could install a hex with a set screw and have a more solid axle.
    Last edited by Drive5150; 01-12-2018 at 10:50 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    When landing jumps, it is VERY important not to be on the throttle. If you are, it will cause too much stress on your driveline.
    If you're not racing your rig, just get the MIP X-Duty axles and forget about it.

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    When landing jumps, it is VERY important not to be on the throttle. If you are, it will cause too much stress on your driveline.
    If you're not racing your rig, just get the MIP X-Duty axles and forget about it.

    Have fun!
    That is one lesson that I need to follow! I have destroyed too many parts from fill throttle landings
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have destroyed about 20 stubs.... I now have the MIP X-duty axles

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    And i just bend X Duty stub axels by hitting curbs
    Really hard i might just add
    Last edited by Speed freak #1; 01-14-2018 at 03:43 AM.

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
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    I can tolerate bending and/or breaking on really hard hits. My break was of a pretty light hit that probably wouldn't have even caused a roll-over. I had recently had the nut back off round the hex and wheel junction a little, so I really tightened the nut hoping that it would hold. The nut held...

    Once I had my new stub (stock) I put this wheel and hex on the front thinking that it would see less load and may stay tight. No luck. Since both the hex and the wheel are ruined, I simple glued the rounded hex into the rounded wheel and I am running with it.

    I have another spare rear stub now. So if I break another I will be placing an order for the MIP X-Ds.

    In the interest of full disclosure, I should mention that this is not a Traxxas-built Slash, it is a knock-off. I consider it the roller/plug and play version that Traxxas never (but should have) built. It did come with electronics but they would have been inferior to mainstream components 20yrs ago.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive5150 View Post
    I can tolerate bending and/or breaking on really hard hits. My break was of a pretty light hit that probably wouldn't have even caused a roll-over. I had recently had the nut back off round the hex and wheel junction a little, so I really tightened the nut hoping that it would hold. The nut held...

    Once I had my new stub (stock) I put this wheel and hex on the front thinking that it would see less load and may stay tight. No luck. Since both the hex and the wheel are ruined, I simple glued the rounded hex into the rounded wheel and I am running with it.

    I have another spare rear stub now. So if I break another I will be placing an order for the MIP X-Ds.

    In the interest of full disclosure, I should mention that this is not a Traxxas-built Slash, it is a knock-off. I consider it the roller/plug and play version that Traxxas never (but should have) built. It did come with electronics but they would have been inferior to mainstream components 20yrs ago.
    Are you talking about one of those trucks that looks look like a Slash in every way but doesn't say Traxxas on the bottom of the chassis?
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  8. #8
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    Yes, it was too cheap to NOT give it a look. Black chassis, not LCG. Some of the inferiority is obvious cost saving but there was at least one occurence of simply poor quality control.

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
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    Broke another rear axle stub. X-duties are on the way.

    What finally convinced me was the fact that they include a steel hex. I had a wheel nut loosen to the point that I ruined a plastic hex and the inside of the wheel before I realized that it was loose. This and the fact that I am seeing some u-joint pins wearing out their plastic holes.

    Do any of you have any pics of your MIPs with some age on them? It seems like the pins or the holes would still wear though I think it should take much longer. There are plenty of videos of assembly and installation but nothing showing how they handle long-term use.

  10. #10
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    I haven’t driven my Traxxas stuff that hard yet. Before I switched from redcat to Traxxas, I would break stub axles every run... and I drove the redcats VERY lightly, afraid I would snap a stub axle! I’m really at a standstill for RC right now, until I get a bunch of new lipos. My current ones are either old, puffed, or crap.
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  11. #11
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    I put 2.8 Proline Trenchers on and snapped a rear axle stub almost instantly with the stock Velineon on 2s. The entire truck only had a few runs on it.

    Question, are the rears more prone to snapping than the front? Does the rear end receive more power at the start of throttle?

  12. #12
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gambit023 View Post
    I put 2.8 Proline Trenchers on and snapped a rear axle stub almost instantly with the stock Velineon on 2s. The entire truck only had a few runs on it.

    Question, are the rears more prone to snapping than the front? Does the rear end receive more power at the start of throttle?
    Unless you have a center diff, front and rear wheels receive the same amount of power. My opinion on why rear breaks more than front, when correcting or over eager to get on power we tend to land rear wheels first, while under power or residual from said correction, thus the rear sees more of the initial "shock". I know the only time I snap a front I'm trying to drastically correct for a bad launch but still landing front wheels first. Now, a center diff is a different story. One story I know nothing about as I've never ran with one in a Slash.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  13. #13
    RC Champion MaXXL's Avatar
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    When you accelerate, all the weight of the trucks transfers to the rear wheels. So they are the most loaded and have the most traction. Therefore most accelerating is done by the rear wheels. So they tend to fail the most.

    On the other hand if you do a lot of hard braking, all the weight transfers to the front, and then your front is doing most of the decelerating so you would be likely to break front axles and diffs and such.

    Most people tend to be hard on the throttle and easy on the brakes so rear driveline failures are more common.
    10 RCs and counting 😅

  14. #14
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Make sure y'all are using serrated nuts with the nylon lock in them. Aluminum hexes are a really good idea too. This way you don't need to crank down the wheel nuts super hard, and it will be easier on your stub axles.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRC
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  15. #15
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    I bent an axle on maybe my 6th or 7th pack. Im switching from the 3 aluminum traxxas carriers to rpm slash 4 carriers. I think the flex in the rpm nylon and the mellower toe angle will help the stubs. Might make them break more we'll have to see.
    ------
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  16. #16
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    alright, i have broken a bunch now. all it takes is to get my 3s battery working again, and its over. also, please help me on my SCT thread...please? which is:https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...CT-racing-help
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  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast
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    I've bent one front, snapped two, broke the plastic part that attaches to the yolk on at least 3. In the rear, snapped one, and broke the plastic on at least 4. I figured it would be the drive shafts that wouldn't last, but it's the axles that are taking all the beatings. I don't race and only drive it around the local park and bmx track. Lot's of jumping, but nothing compared to what I've seen on youtube. I've watched countless videos of people bashing the crap out of their units, and never expected it to be so weak at the four corners. I replaced all the carriers with Traxxas aluminum and I'm using aluminum hex's at the wheels. I've started buying stub axles in bulk off Amazon. Not ready to switch to MIP's or Traxxas CV's yet. Figure if I'm going to break them, better keep'm cheap. Fried the spur gear for the first time last night after 5 months of solid bashing.

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