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  1. #1
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    Obligatory introduction and advice

    Just a quick hello from a complete noob!

    I haven't even got myself a set up yet and because it seem to be quite pricey over here in the UK I'd thought I'd ask before jumping in at the deep end.

    I've looked around and have pretty much settled on a Slash 4wd or eRevo.
    Out of the box I'm looking at at least 500 so was wondering if anyone had thoughts on if trying to buy parts bit by bit and slowly building from scratch would be cheaper?

    Time and patience isn't an issue but availability of parts and cost are my concern.

    Any advice is appreciated

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    My only advice is whatever you get go brushless from the start. Believe it or not it will save you money in the long run. Because you will end up upgrading anyways.

  3. #3
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    Availability of parts and cost are a great reasons to go with Traxxas.

    I bought my Erevo brushless used. It was clean, unmodified and was about half the cost of a new one.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Unless you know the model you are going to be dealing with and know how it will react to your style of driving, upgrades should not be considered right off the bat.

    Buying used, the untrained eye can get you into a lot of unneeded expense. Can't say how many people I've seen buying a used R/C and ending up with servo's messed up, ESC's or Nitro Engines blown, differential gears tore up.. OH, but it's only had so much run time or just 1 gallon of fuel through it, or freshly broken in. Only to be ending up being broken hearted and hurting in the wallet. Pain in the rear!

    Personally this a a crawl, walk, run type scenario. Just understand that the R/C hobby no matter how you look at it is not a cheap hobby. But it is a flipping BLAST!!!!!!!

    So either have a friend who knows the Traxxas product you are getting involved in and buy one used or a roller needing parts, otherwise buy new and take it one step at a time.
    Just my 2 Pence...
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 01-17-2018 at 03:06 PM.
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  5. #5
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    Unless you know the model you are going to be dealing with and know how it will react to your style of driving, upgrades should not be considered right off the bat.

    Buying used, the untrained eye can get you into a lot of unneeded expense. Can't say how many people I've seen buying a used R/C and ending up with servo's messed up, ESC's or Nitro Engines blown, differential gears tore up.. OH, but it's only had so much run time or just 1 gallon of fuel through it, or freshly broken in. Only to be ending up being broken hearted and hurting in the wallet. Pain in the rear!

    Personally this a a crawl, walk, run type scenario. Just understand that the R/C hobby no matter how you look at it is not a cheap hobby. But it is a ******* BLAST!!!!!!!

    So either have a friend who knows the Traxxas product you are getting involved in and buy one used or a roller needing parts, otherwise buy new and take it one step at a time.
    Just my 2 Pence...
    Totally agree NN!!!!! I bought a used revo 3.3, knowing it didnt have rx/tx or engine. My thought was i could put a new 3.3 in it n upgraded rx/tx. When i got it, it was worse off than what the pics showed. 1 steering servo was shot, motor mount was broke, and it just wasnt worth what i paid. But, now i have a bunch of spare parts for the other 1 i bought, plus was able to upgrade my tmaxx cvds and knuckles to revo specs.


    Heres a pic of my revo 3.3

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone, this i what i needed. Defo going brushless and all new was my aim.

    Depending on slash or e-revo i'll be looking at the equivalent of $550 and $890 respectively for the base TSM versions, I was thinking i might be able to buy parts/ components new and slowly build a rolling chassis instead of buying a kit, any thoughts on if this could work out cheaper?

    like i said patients isn't an issue

    thank again

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banxe View Post
    Thanks everyone, this i what i needed. Defo going brushless and all new was my aim.

    Depending on slash or e-revo i'll be looking at the equivalent of $550 and $890 respectively for the base TSM versions, I was thinking i might be able to buy parts/ components new and slowly build a rolling chassis instead of buying a kit, any thoughts on if this could work out cheaper?

    like i said patients isn't an issue

    thank again
    These vehicles do not come in kit form they are Ready to Run out of the box.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    These vehicles do not come in kit form they are Ready to Run out of the box.
    yeah i come to that conclusion but was wondering about buying individual components

    As it happens, too much time at work, a credit card coupled with my outlook and being financially independent ended in an expensive purchase
    Last edited by Double G; 01-19-2018 at 11:11 AM. Reason: language

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banxe View Post
    yeah i come to that conclusion but was wondering about buying individual components

    As it happens, too much time at work, a credit card coupled with my outlook and being financially independent ended in an expensive purchase
    If you know the model well and know what you are buying (do not buy Integy structural parts or RD Logics as they are CNC'd from cast aluminum and not consistent in strength) then I would say you would save some $$$.. Otherwise you will end up with money not well spent as you do not know what upgrades to buy, where to buy them....

    Example, Aluminum Bumper and bumper mounts = trashed chassis since they do not absorb impacts and transfer the force of the impact to the chassis instead of absorbing them. OR a roll cage, that adds weight and really doesn't protect much as it is mounted usually to bumper mounts and they also love to eat up bodies because the body flexes and the roll cage doesn't.

    BTW, if you use curse words and see an asterisk, or use something to try to bypass the language filter the moderators will give you warning points, if they add up you can be banned from this site.

    Again, not any 2 people drive the same way, people take jumps slightly different, people land slightly different, people take turns and handle their vehicles different... Also different vehicles have different issues as far as what to upgrade. So decide your model first...

    Old saying around the R/C world, if it breaks, upgrade.... But make sure what you are upgrading is what really fixes the problem. Example: Steel spur gears, absolutely not needed, if you are stripping the plastic ones it's not because of the spur gear being plastic, something is causing it to do that... Slipper too tight, bad clutch bearings, loose transmission mount, broken motor mount, landing too hard while have too much throttle, those are it's issues. Using the Steel spur just masks the problem and others will happen. The plastic spur should strip in those cases to save your driveline..

    Hope that helps.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    Totally agree NN!!!!! I bought a used revo 3.3, knowing it didnt have rx/tx or engine. My thought was i could put a new 3.3 in it n upgraded rx/tx. When i got it, it was worse off than what the pics showed. 1 steering servo was shot, motor mount was broke, and it just wasnt worth what i paid. But, now i have a bunch of spare parts for the other 1 i bought, plus was able to upgrade my tmaxx cvds and knuckles to revo specs.


    Heres a pic of my revo 3.3

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
    Buying a clean, unmodded one is not too risky. I dont think you could build one for cheaper than new.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wretep View Post
    Buying a clean, unmodded one is not too risky. I dont think you could build one for cheaper than new.
    I payed 115 for the first revo that ended up bein a parts truck. I was goina put a new 3.3 on it and a new rx/tx, but there was more wrong than was described or pics showed. So i ended up spendin another 200 on a clean, unmodded, runnin 3.3 revo. Granted i have alot of stock extras, but it wouldve been about as well for me to have bought new lol. But, im slowly modding the runnin truck and have enuf extra parts to build another, less the engine n rx/tx

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Choose Life !!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    If you know the model well and know what you are buying (do not buy Integy structural parts or RD Logics as they are CNC'd from cast aluminum and not consistent in strength) then I would say you would save some $$$.. Otherwise you will end up with money not well spent as you do not know what upgrades to buy, where to buy them....

    Example, Aluminum Bumper and bumper mounts = trashed chassis since they do not absorb impacts and transfer the force of the impact to the chassis instead of absorbing them. OR a roll cage, that adds weight and really doesn't protect much as it is mounted usually to bumper mounts and they also love to eat up bodies because the body flexes and the roll cage doesn't.

    BTW, if you use curse words and see an asterisk, or use something to try to bypass the language filter the moderators will give you warning points, if they add up you can be banned from this site.

    Again, not any 2 people drive the same way, people take jumps slightly different, people land slightly different, people take turns and handle their vehicles different... Also different vehicles have different issues as far as what to upgrade. So decide your model first...

    Old saying around the R/C world, if it breaks, upgrade.... But make sure what you are upgrading is what really fixes the problem. Example: Steel spur gears, absolutely not needed, if you are stripping the plastic ones it's not because of the spur gear being plastic, something is causing it to do that... Slipper too tight, bad clutch bearings, loose transmission mount, broken motor mount, landing too hard while have too much throttle, those are it's issues. Using the Steel spur just masks the problem and others will happen. The plastic spur should strip in those cases to save your driveline..

    Hope that helps.
    Brilliant, thanks mate! I would have probably made at least some of those mistakes thinking I was doing the right thing!

    Sorry for expletives, I put the asterisk in myself guessing full on swearing would be frowned up on but I'll moderate myself better in the future

    I should be expecting a delivery today and will post when I get it

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Be careful lektro, there is a play of words in their statement on that page and they do this and have done this since I saw their stuff back in 2004....
    They say
    Quote Originally Posted by Integy
    All of our billet machined products are made from either the 6000 or 7000 series material.
    which is an ambiguous statement because they do NOT state that ALL their aluminum structural Hop Up Products are machined directly from billet material now do they? They are stating that their billet machined parts are... So which parts are and which parts are not??? Even the cost does not reflect the amount of time and labor it takes to machine something directly from billet. Their trick is to take billet material (which all 6061 and 7075 material starts out as in the first place) melt it down into castings and THEN CNC the parts to give it that nice clean machined look.
    Yes, some parts are strong, but as I stated, they are inconsistent...

    It's a play on words in the English language and I can guarantee you that all of their aluminum structural parts are NOT machined directly from billet, if it was that's what they would be stating.

    Do some searching and you will see how many bent up Integy structural parts have been found to have porous density when broken... Which you will NEVER see when machined directly from billet material.... Check other forums, you will see for yourself......

    So don't fall for the cute marketing wording.... Do some research and you shall see the light....

    Unless it is stated on their product that it is directly machined from billet material, I'd avoid it. But, it's YOUR $$

    You could not pay me enough money to use their structural products which many are knock offs of other designs from other companies.
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  15. #15
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    thanks for the heads up on all this new info Nitronaught and for the forum warning - got my wrist slapped!

    but here is my new "learning curve"



    hang on it wont accept image from google photo seemingly

    Last edited by Banxe; 01-20-2018 at 05:46 AM.

  16. #16
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    google doest seem to like the hosting so lets try this one


  17. #17
    RC Racer MindBlown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banxe View Post
    google doest seem to like the hosting so lets try this one

    You got it
    MERV, Rustler VXL, X-Maxx
    @kbedrich - Thingiverse

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MindBlown View Post
    You got it
    yup, just getting my head around the learning curve, more of a monster than any of the videos or pics suggest - none do it justice. Its awesome!!!

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