I didn't want an RTR, because I didn't want to remove things to sell to buy what I wanted. So this is my starting point, stock arms, and front knuckles. Picture is sans screws, because I'm waiting for my SS screw set. I've got all the pins for the arms. I've got the 8S diffs. I'm just taking my time. Parts still coming in.
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Looks good!
Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
Rustler VXL
Can't wait to see it come together!
Today's order was 4 Green Traxxas shocks. 2, 1.5 rate springs; and 2, 1.4 rate springs. Front diff pinion(ordered 2 rears on accident). I've got 4 driveshafts with pins for axles. I ordered the green stub axles and matching wheel nuts. I just went stock with the inner hub as it won't be seen anyhow. I've got a complete bearing set coming from Fast Eddy. SS screws set. Got the 2085X servo. I've got the center diff, and 46 and 54 final gears, and the stock small 20t. Cush drive pieces ordered. I got the rear bearing carriers from RPM with the oversized bearings. Stock steering gear on the way as well. I picked up 50wt oil for the rear shocks and I'll use 40 in the front as a starting point.
So I need motor advice, I'm stuck on Lepoard. Do I get the V2 1200kv, or the 1340kv. Both are 5892 cans?
I'll polish it off. I may just try that one. I'll lose initial speed but I'm gonna get Fastlanes Motor mount so gearing should not be an issue.
The more I think about it. I'd like to have the option to run 6S and it not be a dog. I'm still undecided. The 1050 looks like it'll shine on 10S which I don't want to get into.
Last edited by Gripdog7205; 02-02-2018 at 11:29 PM.
I remember when my 6s started off like this.
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8 X-MAXX's total one built from ground up 4 8s!!!
Loads of parts arriving tomorrow. The screw kit will hold me up. I'll have the shocks with springs and oil done tomorrow though. I'm gonna take my time and detail the build with pictures. This truck is unlike any traxxas I've ever had.
Coming along sir. The suspension will be a good starting point. Did you decide what to do with diff oils?
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
I run 500k front and rear
fabricator
Sounds good thanks. Here's the mail from today. Only missing a set of shocks and the front pinion.
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Ya can't polish fertilizer...
20million center weight?is that like some weird putty or something?
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Rear end is doneish. I don't have 7742 for the shocks. Newbie.
Rear driveshafts are assembled and RPM rear hubs are ready to go in. Maybe later
Last edited by pontiacHP; 02-05-2018 at 10:07 PM.
I read here that Leopard says the 1340kv shouldn’t run 8S, strictly 6S. I don’t know what they’re talking about although I need to see the numbers it’s putting out.
I’ve also read of Leo pushing their 1090 kv. Supposedly their X Maxx motor? This is the motor I’m running except it’s branded as a Toro, same thing but way cheaper. Well, they were cheaper. Out of stock and the price jumped $90, loll.
So this is my progress report. I've got it together minus the correct length shock bottom pins and 4 pin captures. Got my diff situation resolved thanks to CrazyMaxx for the advice. I got a 6S pinion instead on an 8S pinion. I donated the 6S pinion to the hobby store.
50k in both diffs. 50 wt oil with 1.5(red) springs in the rear. 45 at oil with 1.4(black) springs in the front.
Servo is installed. 2085x. Stock hardware as you can see.
I must say I like traxxas products, but the layout and construction of this truck is awesome. Maybe hard to get to certain issues, but the strength and engineering is sweet.
So on the list are Proline Badlands, Max5, Futaba receiver to go with my transmitter, and most likely the Lepoard 1200kv 5892. Gonna pick up the motor mount from fastlane RC as it's a one piece design. Body will be stock clear, I've heard the Proline is thinner than the Traxxas body. Since this has been expensive I'm gonna be waiting on a little tax fairy for most of the remainder.
Forgot to explain the driveshaft if y'all didn't know. Integy makes a billet upgraded center driveshaft. I know it's Integy, but it looks and feels much better than the stock unit.
Geez now I'm thinking maybe TP Power may be a good option as well
Just my opinion, TP might not be best choise for you, its awsome power but a few things depending of motor choise, TP5860 very difficult to solder if you want max5 on the same level, cables comes from rear of motor, not top like others.. (for boats) Ps dont let fastlaners solder anything, my motor solder was a joke, not even gold connectors. Also im getting low voltage msg on the transmitter using to much throttle, either its just my settings or not enough AMP from batteries, i could never use full throttle and didnt feel any lack of power, hard to tell right now, will know soon... plus, TP will probably destroy more parts.
i think Leopard motor will be easier and liked by many..
I appreciate the advice. The 5860 seems to be an amp hog(441). I wonder if you got a 3-400 amp esc you'd be happier with it. I believe for everyday it may be a bit much. Oh and thanks for the heads up on the the soldering job. I have a station at the house, so I don't have to pay people to do it for me again, it's been a great investment.
Ok) I think the motor will use as much AMPs it can get.. 3-400A ESC would give more power but connectors are limited to 200-300A depending of brand, also Lipos are also limited to the internal connections between the cells, what ever Lipos C rating.. I can't use half throttle already )) will try new setting and gears and will know after...
My Leopard 58113 V2 1050kv will get up to 220 degrees Fahrenheit relatively quick. If I keep going, I’m sure the Temp will continue to climb. I’m using the max5 ESC and SMC 9600 90c 4s batteries. This system pulls a ton of power from the batteries! You need PREMIUM low IR batteries with these power hungry systems. My batteries were hot to the touch after a session in the snow with paddle tires on.
The high temp is discouraging as that was one of the main reasons I went with the big motor over the stock motor. I was sick of the stock one getting hot so quick and waiting for it to cool down. I thought for sure that going with the bigger motor would’ve eliminated the heat issue....it’s better, but still overheats..
Last edited by pontiacHP; 02-08-2018 at 12:37 PM.
Had a guy suggest a 5660 TP to me. He's running a 1920kv. It's nasty. I'll be investing in a BEC and Cap pack I'm sure. Just trying to get a functional vehicle first. Then see what to do next
I know I am new to the xmaxx but learning fast---it sounds like too tall of gearing for such a big truck.Even with a lower kv motor and best esc guys say they still see high temps with too tall of gearing.Just a thought mind you.
I use paper to set gear mesh. Doesn’t bind at all and the wheels coast to a stop. Do you think it might be batteries? I’ve noticed people talking about capacitor packs, is that just to help the ESC get it the power it needs to start the motor spinning?
I can't go without saying something about your build Grip. Wish I had of seen this thread sooner. Im' going to call it a her cause she is looking mighty sweet. I remember somewhere you said you might convert the LST2 to electric. Happy to see you go this route seeing you know what you are getting when you order parts. The LST2 could have been a night mare, never know.
Great to see how things are coming along. Now i have seen your thread I will be keeping my eyes on it. Have fun with the build and hopin ya get the perfect motor, ESC combo.I know you have this figured already, but them kill mode cap pacs are beasts. My hat is off to you sir!
Last edited by lektro; 02-08-2018 at 10:11 PM.
Choose Life !!!
Not to butt in on Grips thread but since you mentioned gear mesh. I like to set mine by eye and sound. Push tight, back off 3 hairs worth, tighten one screw, then listen for a very short back and forth click on all gears. take other screw with loctite, install all the way tight. Then remove the other, loctite, install and lock um down. I like this way better than the paper. Nothing wrong with using the paper, I just like it my way... Perfecto.
Choose Life !!!