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  1. #1
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    Brushless motor/ESC options for a new prerunner

    Hi

    What options are there for a brushless motor/esc for this prerunner if this size?



    I got a GoolRC combo with 4800kv motor which I had to retro fit but not really happy with it since the mounting holes do not line up properly.



    Thanks


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    Last edited by MiniElmo; 02-24-2018 at 08:04 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    I recommend the Hobbywing Quickrun brushless motor and esc because it is a almost perfect fit. It is ever so slightly smaller than the stock motor in diameter, so you can't use the stock preset, but you can us the stock screws and line it up perfectly. The esc never over heats on a 2s, 3s is to much power and when I used it I couldn't get the car past half throttle. I got a bit over half throttle, than it did a mega wheely and the driveshaft snapped. 2s is the perfect speed for the car to handle really well and be very fast. The motor does get pretty hot in the summer and may require a motor fan. I didn't use a motor fan throughout most of the summer last year though.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Q...wAAOSwXeJYKHRP https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Q...wAAOSwmNlZZCTA
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  3. #3
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    Thanks! How do I get the stock preset out of the motor mount (without getting hurt) ? It was stuck in there pretty tight.

    Does the stock pinion gear fit or do I need to get a new one?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    The shaft on the motor is ever so slightly to wide for the stock pinion, so all you have to do is remove the grub screw, and use a small drill bit to drill into the hole to make it wide enough. Just find a small bit that is just about the same size as the motor shaft. For the stock preset, just grab a screw driver or something, hold the motor mount, and push it out. It should just pop out without to much effort. Again, don't buy a 3s lipo for the system, your car won't be able to hit full speed cause it's not designed for so much power. 2s is the perfect speed, makes it go just about as fast as a 1.16 slash with a vxl system and a 3s, which is about 50mph
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  5. #5
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    My friend and I been using hobbywing and castle mamba gear in the associated rc18t and latrax rally and prerunner. One kit was the mamba that works good but they seem to be sensitive on gearing to keep motor temps manageable. But we have been using the hobbywing xr10 60amp just stock esc and hobbywing 12 turn motor in my truck and it has been great. Stock gearing it pulls a strong 40mph and about 46 minutes run time on a clay off road track with venom 2000 maH pack. Building another prerunner up soon with the hobbywing 25 amp and 18 turn 5200 kv. I'm shure il be using the rally spur gear to make up for the lack of rpm with the new motor.

  6. #6
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    Did the 12T ezrun motor drop right in or was any dremelling required?


    Quote Originally Posted by bikemike View Post
    My friend and I been using hobbywing and castle mamba gear in the associated rc18t and latrax rally and prerunner. One kit was the mamba that works good but they seem to be sensitive on gearing to keep motor temps manageable. But we have been using the hobbywing xr10 60amp just stock esc and hobbywing 12 turn motor in my truck and it has been great. Stock gearing it pulls a strong 40mph and about 46 minutes run time on a clay off road track with venom 2000 maH pack. Building another prerunner up soon with the hobbywing 25 amp and 18 turn 5200 kv. I'm shure il be using the rally spur gear to make up for the lack of rpm with the new motor.

  7. #7
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    No it needed a Lil dremel work it was worth it.
    Traxxas has always tried to keep a tight grasp on electronics to keep selling parts like servos and motors. Me I think outside the box and I know what I like with my rc vehicles planes or surface.

  8. #8
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    Thanks!!

    Was it just on the motor mount? Or a bit of dremel on the motor itself as well. And does the stock screw work with the motor?

    Quote Originally Posted by bikemike View Post
    No it needed a Lil dremel work it was worth it.
    Traxxas has always tried to keep a tight grasp on electronics to keep selling parts like servos and motors. Me I think outside the box and I know what I like with my rc vehicles planes or surface.

  9. #9
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    What kv motor are you looking to run? A 4100kv won't get you much more speed on 2s it works great with the 54 tooth spur to use what the motor puts out. Still handles good at low throttle without Cogging. A 5200kv seems to be the sweet spot with any gear combo you choose, speed or slower with linger run times and cool temps

  10. #10
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    Just the motor mount needs a Lil dremel work. And no the stock screws don't fit they are too fat you need to the 2.5mm for mamba and hobbywing and hobbypower

  11. #11
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    I was going to go with the 7800kv 12T and stock pinion on 2s.

  12. #12
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    I love my hobbywing 7200kv or 7800kv 12t in my ass18t. With that motor youl have lots of speed and it will accelerate like crazy. Might need to vent your body cause I'm shure youl se some air time if the front end comes up on you.
    How do I post pics on this site?
    Last edited by bikemike; 03-09-2018 at 09:42 PM.

  13. #13
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    Do you have any mods done to your truck? Diffs, driveshafts?

  14. #14
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    I use the Goolrc 2430 5800kv in my SST and am completely happy with it. I have even driven in taller grass with it. I have used Tacon, Goolrc, Dromida 5300kv, Toro, Hobbywing 7200kv, Boldclash micro motors most in various kvs and sizes at different times in all my minis. I own Dromidas, rc18s, Wltoys 1/18s, Teton and of course my SST. I will say that all that I have tried in one way or another have worked very well for me. Choose whatever motor you think will work best. But in my opinion 2030 sized brushless motors are only good for pavement and light packed dirt. The more versatile motors are the 2040 and 24XX motors.

    Since these pics I have upgraded to aluminum axles. If your going to put some serious power into it i would recommend spending more for Hot racing steel shafts.




  15. #15
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    When did you get your sst, and what differentials are you running? What tires?
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  16. #16
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    Got mine used October of last year it was a little beat up. Running the stock SST diffs but with metal spider gears (from TRA7579X) and rc18 outdrive sleeves on the rear. I experimented with this when I believed I heard the plastic spider gears were a weakness in the diffs. With the 2430 motor and the diffs shimmed it has held up pretty well. Looking at it now though the rear outdrives are showing a good bit of wear (indentions from the pins of the driveshafts in the outdrives). New diffs (7579X) are of course metal but I wanted to make use of the old diffs.

    The wheels I got from Ebay. Heres a link for the same thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-4Pcs-RC-...QAAOSwjvJZVEwG. The rear fenders required a little bit of trimming but the wheels tuck into the body now on full compression of the shocks.

    I like your motto Pecos I feel that way too it does not have to be pretty it just has to run.
    Last edited by Igottabeme; 03-10-2018 at 11:40 AM.

  17. #17
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    I have the metal out drives on my prerunner and in the rear of my associated rc18t and they will wear down too. About your truck rims. Are those rc4wd or trailfinder rims?

  18. #18
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    Been running the 7579X in my rc18s also. Do not know what they are there generic 1/10 scale rally car tires. Do not know how they work on 1/10 scale cars but they work good on minis. All over Ebay there different style rims and treads all of the same size. 1/10 scale drift, rally, and on road tires have become popular on minis because of their size and cheap prices.
    Last edited by Igottabeme; 03-10-2018 at 11:58 AM.

  19. #19
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    No mods on the car yet.

    It has ball bearings and metal diff as far as I know. Amazing the car has not broken. The motor I had did break on 14t pinion running on 2s.


    Quote Originally Posted by bikemike View Post
    Do you have any mods done to your truck? Diffs, driveshafts?



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  20. #20
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    This is what happened to the motor I had previously installed...


    I was able to put the plate back on as it is held by glue and magnetic force I think. But on high speed run and a little bump on the road causes the plate to come off all the time. It was a 2435 size motor with 2mm shaft and plenty of torque but had faultly design IMO.
    They should have used a couple of screws to hold the plate on.


    I also got a teton on the bay cheap. Great condition... servo had a stripped gear so I opened it up and turn the gear around. Now it's good as new. I might get a 2438 motor for the teton.


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    Last edited by MiniElmo; 03-10-2018 at 09:00 PM.

  21. #21
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    Igotta... What servo do you have in there?

  22. #22
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    Tower pro Mg90 servo fits right in stock mount of course you have to use one of the included servo horns.

    The back of the motors are pressed on most mini motors are made that way no screws. I own quite a few mini motors and never had what happend to you even Goolrc ones. A liitle filing or dremeling of the bottom screw mount and then just about any 20XX or 24XX motor will fit.

    If going with a 2435 or larger motor I would not bother getting the aluminum axles and get the Hot racing steel ones. I have a 2040 5300kv in my Teton and its awesome to me but the aluminum axles were wearing very hard just after a few 2s packs. The 2430 I have in my SST is fast enough for me. Its strong enough to push it but not overly torquey to wear real hard on drivetrain parts.

    Outdrive sleeves should be used on the diff outdrives or with too strong of a brushless motor (like the one in my teton) can snap off.

  23. #23
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    Jb lockweld that motor back together and run it. How do you get pictures posted on this site? If I can figure that out il post some helpful pics to better the handling of teton and retro fits for these trucks

  24. #24
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    I've noticed that too on the aluminum shafts cv joint. Tried ordering the steel shafts but they were all on back order from any site I've checked out.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemike View Post
    How do you get pictures posted on this site?
    From my limited time on this forum you have to have pictures linked from an external site like Imagur. Click on the picture icon and then put in the link to the picture.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemike View Post
    Tried ordering the steel shafts but they were all on back order from any site I've checked out.
    SLTN28806 Ebay or Amazon
    Last edited by Igottabeme; 03-12-2018 at 12:50 AM.

  27. #27
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    I've tried those at the time that I ordered my aluminum shafts. It was about a 3 to 4 week period before they would be shipped so that's whydro I got 3 sets of aluminum shafts to get me by

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniElmo View Post
    This is what happened to the motor I had previously installed...


    I was able to put the plate back on as it is held by glue and magnetic force I think. But on high speed run and a little bump on the road causes the plate to come off all the time. It was a 2435 size motor with 2mm shaft and plenty of torque but had faultly design IMO.
    They should have used a couple of screws to hold the plate on.


    I also got a teton on the bay cheap. Great condition... servo had a stripped gear so I opened it up and turn the gear around. Now it's good as new. I might get a 2438 motor for the teton.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Use a sharp center punch and that will cure that issue

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by PecosBill View Post
    I recommend the Hobbywing Quickrun brushless motor and esc because it is a almost perfect fit. It is ever so slightly smaller than the stock motor in diameter, so you can't use the stock preset, but you can us the stock screws and line it up perfectly. The esc never over heats on a 2s, 3s is to much power and when I used it I couldn't get the car past half throttle. I got a bit over half throttle, than it did a mega wheely and the driveshaft snapped. 2s is the perfect speed for the car to handle really well and be very fast. The motor does get pretty hot in the summer and may require a motor fan. I didn't use a motor fan throughout most of the summer last year though.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Q...wAAOSwXeJYKHRP https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Q...wAAOSwmNlZZCTA
    Very awesome system

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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    From my limited time on this forum you have to have pictures linked from an external site like Imagur. Click on the picture icon and then put in the link to the picture.
    Yeah I'm in a latrax site on facebook and it's nice and simple

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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    I use the Goolrc 2430 5800kv in my SST and am completely happy with it. I have even driven in taller grass with it. I have used Tacon, Goolrc, Dromida 5300kv, Toro, Hobbywing 7200kv, Boldclash micro motors most in various kvs and sizes at different times in all my minis. I own Dromidas, rc18s, Wltoys 1/18s, Teton and of course my SST. I will say that all that I have tried in one way or another have worked very well for me. Choose whatever motor you think will work best. But in my opinion 2030 sized brushless motors are only good for pavement and light packed dirt. The more versatile motors are the 2040 and 24XX motors.

    Since these pics I have upgraded to aluminum axles. If your going to put some serious power into it i would recommend spending more for Hot racing steel shafts.



    Recommend HR steel over aluminum?

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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markhpnc View Post
    Recommend HR steel over aluminum?

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    Yes because aluminum has been known to snap and for me the pins in the cvd's were starting to elongate the holes in them causing the pins to start sliding out. Brushed and mild brushless power aluminum should be fine but as I run in grass and use lipos it puts a little more wear on the cvd's. In my opinion the HR steel shafts are worth the extra cost if you want to put the power down individual experience may vary as driving styles or what size brushlesss power you put into them.

  33. #33
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    Cool thanks. Guess if spending the $ makes since to go stronger.

    So I'm seeing a huge variation in brushless setups here, everything from 2000kv to 7000. I'll mostly be running on dirt and don't need 40+mph so good balance of torque n top end ideally with 10t/60t gears would be good. Anyone have suggestions that aren't super $$ and don't require a ton of mods?
    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    Yes because aluminum has been known to snap and for me the pins in the cvd's were starting to elongate the holes in them causing the pins to start sliding out. Brushed and mild brushless power aluminum should be fine but as I run in grass and use lipos it puts a little more wear on the cvd's. In my opinion the HR steel shafts are worth the extra cost if you want to put the power down individual experience may vary as driving styles or what size brushlesss power you put into them.
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  34. #34
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    We were having lots of fun with the HW Quickrun 16bl30 paired with a 10$ Hobbypower 2430 5800kv. The motor was running hot but never gave up.

    Till now.... Son just accidentally ran into the garbage bin and the car bounced back a foot and that was it. Not sure if it is the motor or the esc. Ill try to post a video showing the symptoms in another thread.





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