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  1. #1
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    Upgraded Axles... What are you guys running? Alternatives to MIPs?

    My Stampede "Crash" had MIPs and although they are stout they have their issues.


    I've had a grub screw come out on these even with blue locktite. Do some of you use red in these?

    My other Stampede "Bash" is going to need upgraded driveshafts at some point. I am replacing the shocks, A Arms and suspension guards this week. However, with the way I drive I know it is only a matter of time before I blow a driveshaft.

    Just like I wanted to try different shocks in "Bash" versus "Crash" I would like to try different driveshafts in "Bash" when the inevitable time comes.

    Proline seems to make some:
    https://www.prolineracing.com/pro-spline/front-axle

    https://www.prolineracing.com/pro-spline/rear-axle

    Anyone have the Proline ones? Any other options?

    I love the strength of the MIPs ones. They are finicky though and their ability to lose a grub screw or pin is not one of my favourite things about them.

  2. #2
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    Briber gave a tip on another thread that I thought was unique using shrink tubing over the grub and even if it came loose you wouldn't lose it.

    As far as axles I just use Traxxas cvd's and haven't had any problems, but a few buddies out here have snapped their Prolines but they bash hard lol.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Ive got a set of integy 2 joint axles, i know i know, stay away from integy lol. But theyre holdin up pretty good though.

    And the shrink tube idea, i use it on my center shaft to help keep it from movin fwd n bkwd. It helps keep the play out of it. Im sure it would help with the grub screw as well

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    I use the TRX cvds in a couple trucks. They work well. I don't think they'll be as strong as the MIPS, but the only issues I have had are a couple of bent half shafts and torn boots. You can get separate replacement parts and rebuild kits, which is nice.

  5. #5
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    One tip for the grub screws is to use HPI 86094 screws. They have a longer snout and some swear by them as a solution for this issue. However, I am not having the luck with them that I hoped, as I still see loosening and even a lost shaft.

    I'll try the heat shrink idea next

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Briber gave a tip on another thread that I thought was unique using shrink tubing over the grub and even if it came loose you wouldn't lose it.

    As far as axles I just use Traxxas cvd's and haven't had any problems, but a few buddies out here have snapped their Prolines but they bash hard lol.
    That is an interesting idea. Would a super tight zip tie around the grub screw accomplish the same thing?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoodles95 View Post
    That is an interesting idea. Would a super tight zip tie around the grub screw accomplish the same thing?
    I have not seen anyone try this, but maybe get some copper tubing that fits around it, cut it lengthwise on the top, pinch it, then press it on.

  8. #8
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    I soon will be in the axle market as I have the stock ones in my Brushless Stampede. I have not looked into it too much yet, but did look at a few options when I was in the LHS recently. Based on my knowledge from being an Auto Technician in a former life the Traxxas axles with the boots seems to be an obvious choice. First of all the joint is protected from a variety of hazards, secondly you can get boot kits if you need them.

    I'm new to this hobby but would think you could lube and re-lube a booted joint if needed. Lubing an unprotected joint will just attract contamination.

    I looked at the MIP's and they may be very strong but there is nothing to protect the joint is there not? I've seen what happens to exposed joints in real vehicles... I don't know maybe it's not a fair to compare these with real cars but my R/C will be exposed to all the same elements.

    I don't mean to hijack this thread but is there any reason one would not want the booted Traxxas CVD's?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    I've heard the boots are problematic on the Traxxas shafts. There's guys over in the Slash 4x4 forum that have run the MIPs for years without issues. I've had mine for a couple years trouble free. Make sure everything is clean and dry when assembling, use GOOD drivers when installing grubs/pin screws,use the supplied Loctite gel and lube,follow instructions and you'll have no issues. I run my Slash on big 1/8th scale power using 3 and 4s geared 20/50 pushing 2.8 Trenchers. The MIPs don't even flinch.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Briber gave a tip on another thread that I thought was unique using shrink tubing over the grub and even if it came loose you wouldn't lose it.

    As far as axles I just use Traxxas cvd's and haven't had any problems, but a few buddies out here have snapped their Prolines but they bash hard lol.
    The more I think about this idea the better I like it. These seem to be the best axles on the market and this solution would fix the one vexxing issue I have with them. I wonder what diameter he uses? Now I am going to snag a heat gun and some shrink wrap!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    Ive got a set of integy 2 joint axles, i know i know, stay away from integy lol. But theyre holdin up pretty good though.

    And the shrink tube idea, i use it on my center shaft to help keep it from movin fwd n bkwd. It helps keep the play out of it. Im sure it would help with the grub screw as well

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
    I do not know what to make of this company. Products look really nice and the price is reasonable for what you get. However, their alloys must be too soft or something for certain applications. For my Rustler build the concerns expressed on this forum and others swayed me to look elsewhere so I am going with STRC for my aluminum bulkhead, caster blocks etc.

    Perhaps the aluminum is thick enough on those axles or the design is such that all is good.

    I would like to try this piece on my Rustler build but for some reason a whack of their stuff it out of stock until May. I guess I will stick with the plastic upper chassis for now. I suspect this piece would suffice since it is replacing plastic. It sure would look sweet on my Rustler:


    For what they charge for those axles that makes them an interesting option versus the stock ones. They are almost half the price of MIPs and if they are repairable with spare parts like the MIPs are then I can see the value in them.

    I may try some Integy for that upper bulkhead and see how it goes.

    There is this one from FLM but from I have read about it I will have to modify it to make it work.


    BTW... The Intega Stampede body mounts look really nice!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    My c-blocks n carriers are all atomik, toe links are traxxas, n my shock caps are strc, n the motor mount is hot racing. The integy axles have a thin snap ring that holds the pins in at tge joints, so im sure theyre repairable. Im lookin to upgrade to 17mm wheels since i busted a hex on my 12mm wheels, ine got the hot racing 17mm adapters already

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    My c-blocks n carriers are all atomik, toe links are traxxas, n my shock caps are strc, n the motor mount is hot racing. The integy axles have a thin snap ring that holds the pins in at tge joints, so im sure theyre repairable. Im lookin to upgrade to 17mm wheels since i busted a hex on my 12mm wheels, ine got the hot racing 17mm adapters already

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
    Wow. That is a beautiful truck. Really nice.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoodles95 View Post
    Wow. That is a beautiful truck. Really nice.
    Thank you! Ive gotta get new wheels. 3s will destroy 12mm hexes. Ive got the hobbywing sc8 wp esc and a goolrc 2150kv BL motor

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

  15. #15
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    I need to learn about the 17mm conversions and how that works. Just got an ESC fan for "Crash" today and new shocks etc for "Bash". I hope to have 2 working trucks by the end of tonight!

    Hey, is that the Traxxas motor mount?
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/telemetry/6860R

    I wonder when enough is enough for a Stampede? Where does the upgrade end? LOL!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoodles95 View Post
    I need to learn about the 17mm conversions and how that works. Just got an ESC fan for "Crash" today and new shocks etc for "Bash". I hope to have 2 working trucks by the end of tonight!

    Hey, is that the Traxxas motor mount?
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/telemetry/6860R

    I wonder when enough is enough for a Stampede? Where does the upgrade end? LOL!
    Hot Racing makes some nice 17mm adapters. They slide right over the 12mm hex(mine are metal MIP hex) and are held on with a barrel nut on
    the axle



    Also I would check out the King Headz motor mount. Great fit/look with a larger bearing to support the slipper/adapter. Good luck!
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    Hot Racing makes some nice 17mm adapters. They slide right over the 12mm hex(mine are metal MIP hex) and are held on with a barrel nut on
    the axle



    Also I would check out the King Headz motor mount. Great fit/look with a larger bearing to support the slipper/adapter. Good luck!
    I 2nd the King Headsz motor mount. Used it on my sons Pede. I also went with MIPís and there 17mm hexes. Just finishing up some little stuff on his truck. Painting a new body this weekend.

  18. #18
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    MIP X-Duty's are by far the strongest driveshafts out there.

    There is, however, one thing that can not be repeated often enough to avoid grub screws coming loose: All machined parts will have some residue of machining oil on them, and they need to be degreased before applying threadlock. You should never just start assembling the X-Duty's straight out of the bag without degreasing every part with threads on (also the grub screws). Soak them in brake cleaner or acetone and let the parts dry before commencing assembly.

    Doing this will prevent 99% of the problem with grub screws coming loose. There is no need to use red threadlock - blue is sufficient. Just be sure the grub screws seat on the flat spot on the pins, and do not overtighten them (the pins may snap because they are hardened steel).

    For the diff outdrive I use screw pins instead of the MIP grub screws (Traxxas #5189 or HPI #86094). This may not be necessary anymore, since MIP started using the snub nosed grub screws for the diff output yokes (or drive hubs as MIP calls them).
    Last edited by Viking; 03-09-2018 at 03:10 AM.

  19. #19
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    Thanks for the tip about the King Headz Motor Mount. I ordered one up for "Crash". Going to try that out plus one of the Tekno big bone center driveshaft. Learning a lot from you guys!

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I run Tekno M6ís. They use larger more robust bearings. I run a 2600kv motor or 4S and the cups and bones show no wear. Of course Tekno makes the big bone Center shaft. Teknoís handle a lot of power, donít have so many moving(loseable) pieces, and weigh tons less than the MIPís. Iíve been running them for a year plus.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    MIP X-Duty's are by far the strongest driveshafts out there.

    There is, however, one thing that can not be repeated often enough to avoid grub screws coming loose: All machined parts will have some residue of machining oil on them, and they need to be degreased before applying threadlock. You should never just start assembling the X-Duty's straight out of the bag without degreasing every part with threads on (also the grub screws). Soak them in brake cleaner or acetone and let the parts dry before commencing assembly.

    Doing this will prevent 99% of the problem with grub screws coming loose. There is no need to use red threadlock - blue is sufficient. Just be sure the grub screws seat on the flat spot on the pins, and do not overtighten them (the pins may snap because they are hardened steel).

    For the diff outdrive I use screw pins instead of the MIP grub screws (Traxxas #5189 or HPI #86094). This may not be necessary anymore, since MIP started using the snub nosed grub screws for the diff output yokes (or drive hubs as MIP calls them).
    I have never thought about this or cleaned before putting together and installing, interesting! I use MIP X-Duty on both my P4des on 4s-6s. Been running them couple of yrs, no issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zoodles95 View Post
    I wonder when enough is enough for a Stampede? Where does the upgrade end? LOL!
    These are older pics but everything I've mentioned is on one or both of my P4des now.
    When you get to this: 2200kv motor, MM2 esc, D8 shocks, MIP X-Duties, Aluminum Hubs(Trx one reversed in rear to move toe in to 1į in), HR or MIP 17mm adapters. Running 4-6s.Or: 2700kv motor, sc8 esc, MIP X, Ultra shocks are fine if you get aluminum caps and better springs like Integy progressives, Tekno dog bone center drive. MIP adapters are just as good as HR it really depends on look(see pics). On the MIP adapters i use the Trx wheel nut wrench and modified it like so to fit and use on MIP wheel nuts. I also agree on using grub pins instead of screws, they are a must! Both of my P4des are what I consider bulletproof. That doesnt mean its indestructible, it only means that I get a ton of run times in between maintenance or break downs on 4s and greater. I also quit jumping over couple of feet heights after my personal best of around 9' on a curved 17" tall ramp.

    Last edited by Briber; 03-09-2018 at 11:18 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Briber...that's one of those Kershaw 2700s right? I haven't run mine in a bit. That's a GREAT motor for the money! I actually grabbed another used one after they were discontinued. I need to stick one back in my Slash and hit it with 4s....that makes them things fly!
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    Ive got a set of integy 2 joint axles, i know i know, stay away from integy lol. But theyre holdin up pretty good though.

    And the shrink tube idea, i use it on my center shaft to help keep it from movin fwd n bkwd. It helps keep the play out of it. Im sure it would help with the grub screw as well

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
    I use those in my Slash 4x4 when I do speed runs. They are very nice axles. I even have them in the same color.

  24. #24
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    I hate to hurt anyone's feelings here. Something I just have to say. Inte g's parts are very good in my book. No complaints from me. Rock solid aluminum..... I would visit here more often but the same pics over and over. too much for me. Yall want to know how to quote just the words without the pics?


    Surprised Traxxas does not push this. For All I know it might already be a rule of thumb. It's so easy... No disrespect. Just trying to make things easy........

    Ive got a set of integy 2 joint axles, i know i know, stay away from integy lol. But theyre holdin up pretty good though.
    DEMO check check.... Why stay away when they have many good hop ups for almost any Traxxas vehicle......

    Saw Stargate360 doing it. I just had to figure out how he was doing it and did......Thanx Stargate....
    Last edited by lektro; 03-09-2018 at 11:36 PM.
    Choose Life !!!

  25. #25
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    I hate to hurt anyone's feelings here. Something I just have to say. Inte g's parts are very good in my book. No complaints from me. Rock solid aluminum..... I would visit here more often but the same pics over and over. too much for me. Yall want to know how to quote just the words without the pics?
    Surprised Traxxas does not push this. For All I know it might already be a rule of thumb. It's so easy... No disrespect. Just trying to make things easy........
    DEMO check check.... Why stay away when they have many good hop ups for almost any Traxxas vehicle......
    Saw Stargate360 doing it. I just had to figure out how he was doing it and did......Thanx Stargate....
    They have some parts that are pretty good. Their t-maxx bulkheads stink. I've literally snapped the part that the shock tower bolts to off, with stock plastic towers. The threads also strip out really easily in anything integy I've bought. Fitment is also not perfect. I have yet to get a set of integy rockers for my revo shocks that actually fit without binding. Every single one, I have had to grind down the inner race and shim them tediously to get them to allow smooth movement without binding the bearings.

    That said, I have bought 2 sets of the heavy duty savage rear axle carriers to get rid of turnbuckles and they have held up to a ton of punishment.

    Anyway, I've been running MIP X-Duty sliders on my 4x4 stampede for quite a while. I use blue gel locktight for the grub screws, but I did still have the original grub screws go loose and fall out on me. Luckily not both at the same time. I use the HPI longer pin now, I just make it a habit to check before/after every bash. It only takes a few seconds to lock them down, then even after 3-4 back to back packs, I have yet to lose one.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  26. #26
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    x-duty is a must in rear. Lots of power being laid down back there. I ran stock plastics up front for a looooong time until they broke. Replaced with lighter traxxes metal CVD's in front.

  27. #27
    RC Racer Killroy's Avatar
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    I run the tekno driveshafts and center driveshaft. They are better than the mip,s.
    They come with larger hub carriers and bearings. The pins are captured in the bearing.

  28. #28
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    Ive heard there are issues finding drive shafts that work with the RPM arms in the stampede 4◊4... What would be good solid drive shafts to run with my rpm arms?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yoshi1988 View Post
    Ive heard there are issues finding drive shafts that work with the RPM arms in the stampede 4◊4... What would be good solid drive shafts to run with my rpm arms?
    ? They are same length as stock arms right? The only problem arm I know of is the protrac arms since they are longer. You cant just buy the reg mip xduties you have to get longer half shafts so theres enough splines inside and wont come apart when arm is at lowest point. If u want the particulars on that set ill have to look and get part numbers for ya.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    Briber...that's one of those Kershaw 2700s right? I haven't run mine in a bit. That's a GREAT motor for the money! I actually grabbed another used one after they were discontinued. I need to stick one back in my Slash and hit it with 4s....that makes them things fly!
    Yes it is! An absolute beast of a motor. Prob the best buy Ive ever made as far as parts go. If I found another Id get one too.
    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 03-18-2018 at 10:45 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  30. #30
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    Pros for Tekno M6 driveshafts: Plenty strong for 3s bashing, lightweight, include oversized bearings, oversized bearing carriers, 6mm axles, quick and easy to install.
    Cons: Shafts will bend if using RPM a-arms. Not compatible with slash aluminum bearing carriers (can use xo-1 aluminum carriers)
    Pros for mip xduty's: 4s+ bashing capable. Solid 5mm keyed axles compatible with slash aluminum bearing carriers and RPM a-arms.
    Cons: heavy, requires time and patience for proper assembly.

  31. #31
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    I really really like the XO-1 CVDs i put on my sons Pede. Take a look at those too. You can get the part number straight from you parts breakdown book. I think the front and rear are different.
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    Pros for Tekno M6 driveshafts: Plenty strong for 3s bashing, lightweight, include oversized bearings, oversized bearing carriers, 6mm axles, quick and easy to install.
    Cons: Shafts will bend if using RPM a-arms. Not compatible with slash aluminum bearing carriers (can use xo-1 aluminum carriers)
    Pros for mip xduty's: 4s+ bashing capable. Solid 5mm keyed axles compatible with slash aluminum bearing carriers and RPM a-arms.
    Cons: heavy, requires time and patience for proper assembly.
    Mine havenít bent yet and I run 4S. Just pointing it out.

  33. #33
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    I remember choosing between xduty and tekno shafts. I went with xduty since they used the standard bearing size. It was easy to find replacements from traxxas or go aluminum if needed. For a different street only 10th scale rally build I went with full traxxas aluminum X0-1 castors,carriers,CVD's and went straight to 17mm hex.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Mine haven’t bent yet and I run 4S. Just pointing it out.
    I believe it. I love my teknos. I run 3s 550 size motor and they are still in perfect condition. There have been a few reports of the dog bone pin shearing off under 4s power. I'm not sure what motor/gearing/wheel/tire combo they were running.

    On the Tekno website they don't recommend running RPM a-arms because they flex too much, which allows the dog bones to bend on hard impacts. I see no need for upgrading to the RPM a-arms. My stampede has taken lots of abuse, with 12+ foot high jumps and the a-arms are fine. I'm sure one will break eventually...and I'm willing to pay the $2 to replace it.

  35. #35
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    I believe it. I love my teknos. I run 3s 550 size motor and they are still in perfect condition. There have been a few reports of the dog bone pin shearing off under 4s power. I'm not sure what motor/gearing/wheel/tire combo they were running.

    On the Tekno website they don't recommend running RPM a-arms because they flex too much, which allows the dog bones to bend on hard impacts. I see no need for upgrading to the RPM a-arms. My stampede has taken lots of abuse, with 12+ foot high jumps and the a-arms are fine. I'm sure one will break eventually...and I'm willing to pay the $2 to replace it.
    Guess I'm unlucky. I broke 3 front arms on mine within a month and replaced them with RPM. I just busted a front RPM axle carrier and stock rear carrier last weekend... ordered some aluminum replacements.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  36. #36
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    Rpm
    Pros: soft = bend upon hard impacts.
    Cons: soft = arm sag over time and not recommended for some drives.
    Ppl boil them and claim it hardens the plastic like tempering steel. When you do that you give up flexibility and may take a harder hit to break but thats the trade off. Youll break like a stock arm instead of bending. But stock arms are hard to break. At one point of owning 3 P4des and bashing hard broke one. It was also cold outside which makes plastic more brittle. If your gonna boil rpm arms just stay with stock. There pretty tough. Just my .02 on it.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  37. #37
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Completely different rig, but I also have RPM on all 3 of my revo's and my savage flux. I got the flux used and it came with RPM on it. The flux mounts the shock to the front of the arm like the stampede and I'm running 4 big bore shocks on it. I've snapped many shock ends in half in the 6 months I've had it. I'm 99% sure it's due to the RPM arm flexing so much that it twists and the shock end can only bend so far before it snaps. Very irritating. Compare that to my nitro savage-x with stock HPI arms, also 4 big bore shocks and I've only busted a few shock ends over many years of hard bashing.

    The shock/spring combo on it was way stiffer than the stampede. I recently went from 50wt on the flux to 40wt and bashed it pretty hard this weekend with no shock casualties for a change. Still, the I think the RPM arms are part of the problem.

    Haven't had much issue with the RPM arms on the stampede though. I do have all my trucks on stands when stored so the arms hang from the shocks with the tires not touching. I do that more for avoiding flat spots in tires than warp in arms. Guess less arm warp is a good side effect.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Completely different rig, but I also have RPM on all 3 of my revo's and my savage flux. I got the flux used and it came with RPM on it. The flux mounts the shock to the front of the arm like the stampede and I'm running 4 big bore shocks on it. I've snapped many shock ends in half in the 6 months I've had it. I'm 99% sure it's due to the RPM arm flexing so much that it twists and the shock end can only bend so far before it snaps. Very irritating. Compare that to my nitro savage-x with stock HPI arms, also 4 big bore shocks and I've only busted a few shock ends over many years of hard bashing.

    The shock/spring combo on it was way stiffer than the stampede. I recently went from 50wt on the flux to 40wt and bashed it pretty hard this weekend with no shock casualties for a change. Still, the I think the RPM arms are part of the problem.

    Haven't had much issue with the RPM arms on the stampede though. I do have all my trucks on stands when stored so the arms hang from the shocks with the tires not touching. I do that more for avoiding flat spots in tires than warp in arms. Guess less arm warp is a good side effect.
    I would agree with your thinking on the flex causing the issue. I do too, I use the original box they came in, unless I bought used like my emaxx and mini ERBE. I do have RPM on a couple of my rc's that I bought used and they just seem weak and flimsy compared to stock.I made these work stands outta original box and another double wall cardboard box I had. The boxes theyre sitting on actually open for storage as you can see on top one.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 03-27-2018 at 04:57 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  39. #39
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    1
    After breaking 5 of the stock 6852(rear) and 6851(front) axles on my brushless stampede, I finally upgraded my rear drive shafts. Fronts will follow soon now that I've seen how durable these axles are. I did tons of research and settled on the Tekno M6 6852x drive shafts for the rear, and I'm very impressed so far. I'm only bashing on 2s, but I've still experienced tons of breakage with the stock components. These seem to be the cure so far as they've endured tons of abuse! It's nice to end a run because of a low battery rather than a broken drive shaft.

    Here's a short mid-install comparison video.

    https://youtu.be/L4ISMWFF2-Y

  40. #40
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by Scubamike View Post
    After breaking 5 of the stock 6852(rear) and 6851(front) axles on my brushless stampede, I finally upgraded my rear drive shafts. Fronts will follow soon now that I've seen how durable these axles are. I did tons of research and settled on the Tekno M6 6852x drive shafts for the rear, and I'm very impressed so far. I'm only bashing on 2s, but I've still experienced tons of breakage with the stock components. These seem to be the cure so far as they've endured tons of abuse! It's nice to end a run because of a low battery rather than a broken drive shaft.

    Here's a short mid-install comparison video.

    https://youtu.be/L4ISMWFF2-Y
    Nice comparison video! I have been bashing with tekno m6's in my stampede on 3s for a while now and they are still running great.

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