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  1. #1
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    Glow plug igniters.

    I need someone who has knowledge of using glow plug igniters to give me an idea of how many times you can use it before it needs recharged. I had read that certain rechargeable ones can take anywhere from 5~7 hours to recharge and if you can only get a couple of attempted starts out of a charge before you have to wait another five hours to try and start the engine again.......well I guess that would steer me towards getting the EZ-Start system.

    I'm on the fence about which type of starting system to implement into my build (which I'm doing from the ground up) and I really like the pull start idea; but not if I can only get a couple of attempted starts out of the glow plug igniter before I have to wait another five or seven hours. Any ideas or input on the pros and cons of either start system would be greatly appreciated.

    I know this subject has been talked to death in the past; but that was when the first EZ-Start system was created years ago and since then, the second generation EZ-Start has come out and I haven't really come across any threads discussing if the new system is better than the first dinosaur EZ-Start system to come out.

    I really don't care about weight savings, I just want a reliable starting system and I have no idea which way to go at this point. Is there anything someone can add that I'm missing about making a decision on which type of starting system to go with?
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  2. #2
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    Any of the lipo powered glow igniters work very well. The one I use needs a re-charge once every 4-5 track sessions. It takes about 4-5 hours to recharge. I think it's a Dynamite branded one. With the tmaxx you are limited to the EZ start, pull start or if you can find a back plate, the roto start system. When I had my tmaxx, the pull start worked the best for me but it does require having the tune set correctly.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    Any of the lipo powered glow igniters work very well. The one I use needs a re-charge once every 4-5 track sessions. It takes about 4-5 hours to recharge. I think it's a Dynamite branded one. With the tmaxx you are limited to the EZ start, pull start or if you can find a back plate, the roto start system. When I had my tmaxx, the pull start worked the best for me but it does require having the tune set correctly.

    That reminds me. I was curious if when buying a motor, the one with the IPS shaft can use either pull start or electric start right? So in other words, if I bought a motor that has a pull start on it already, I could essentially just remove the pull start and hook it right up to the EZ-Start system correct?

    Is it hard to find roto-start backplates these days?
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-07-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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  4. #4
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That reminds me. I was curious if when buying a motor, the one with the IPS shaft can use either pull start or electric start right? So in other words, if I bought a motor that has a pull start on it already, I could essentially just remove the pull start and hook it right up to the EZ-Start system correct?

    Is it hard to find roto-start backplates these days?
    Yes, if you bought the IPS engine w/pull start you can put the EZ Start on it.

    Back plate shouldn't be that hard. You'll need to buy the IPS shaft w/out starter nub or grind the nub off.

    As for ignitor: I bought an Ofna that uses a single AA battery. Put in a rechargeable one and every so often I'll use my battery charger to charge it.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Back plate shouldn't be that hard. You'll need to buy the IPS shaft w/out starter nub or grind the nub off.
    Which way does the roto-start need to be spinning? Clockwise or Counter-clockwise?

    I would need this model of shaft:

    Model# 5288R

    Correct?
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-07-2018 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Additional thoughts.
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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    I use the ez-start instead if pull start, but i use the glo igniter. The one i have is a redcat (if im able to say that on here lol). Depends on how much i run my trucks, but it holds a charge for a good while. If i run 3x a week, i may need to charge it once every other week. Dependin on how much trouble it gives me when startin it

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  7. #7
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    here's a thread from the slayer forum that talks about converting a pull start/ez start motor to rotostart.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ostart-for-3-3

    come to think of it, I might have an Ofna roto start plate for a 3.3 stashed away somewhere...
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    I use the ez-start instead if pull start, but i use the glo igniter. The one i have is a redcat (if im able to say that on here lol). Depends on how much i run my trucks, but it holds a charge for a good while. If i run 3x a week, i may need to charge it once every other week. Dependin on how much trouble it gives me when startin it

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

    That means you eliminated some wires off the harness right? I was always wondering if the EZ-Start wand would work if the wiring harness was not hooked to both the starting motor and glow plug at the same time. You figure they would have implemented some type of safety feature that prevents one from modifying the electrical start system.

    I wonder if someone has done it the other way around? Meaning, just leave the glow plug hooked up to the harness and eliminate the starting motor (use pull start instead) and use the wand as a glow plug heater.

    Somewhere on this forum, I read that someone figured out what was wrong with the EZ-Start system. He went on to say that the EZ-Start system works fine when the vacuum action has to work to get fuel up to the carb and by that time, your glow plug is nice and hot enough to ignite the fuel.

    The problem he said came after that. If you try to restart the engine with fuel already primed, the plug gets wet too soon and the motor won't start. He solved that by disconnecting one of the starter motor wires and let the plug heat up and then re-connected one of the starter motor wires and it fired right up. It was basically the same principle as a motor that was flooded he said; so he figured a way around that.

    Pretty clever if you ask me.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-07-2018 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Additional thoughts.
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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That means you eliminated some wires off the harness right? I was always wondering if the EZ-Start wand would work if the wiring harness was not hooked to both the starting motor and glow plug at the same time. You figure they would have implemented some type of safety feature that prevents one from modifying the electrical start system.

    I wonder if someone has done it the other way around? Meaning, just leave the glow plug hooked up to the harness and eliminate the starting motor (use pull start instead) and use the wand as a glow plug heater.
    I just unhooked the blue wire to glow plug. The yellow wire is just the ground for the glow plug. The black n red wires are the hot n ground for ez-start motor. Im sure it can be done the other way around, but that would mean holding the button for glow plug while tryin to pull the cord to start it. My revo 3.3 n tmaxx 3.3 are both set up to use ez-start n glo igniter to start them

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyBama View Post
    I just unhooked the blue wire to glow plug. The yellow wire is just the ground for the glow plug. The black n red wires are the hot n ground for ez-start motor. Im sure it can be done the other way around, but that would mean holding the button for glow plug while tryin to pull the cord to start it. My revo 3.3 n tmaxx 3.3 are both set up to use ez-start n glo igniter to start them

    Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
    Did you see my edited post above about someone figuring out what was wrong with the EZ-Start system. Makes sense to me. He said that the EZ-Start system was pulling too much fuel too soon that the glow plug didn't have a chance to get hot enough first.

    They should have designed that EZ-Start wand to have a delay circuit for the starter motor. Say like five or six seconds so that your glow plug has a chance to heat up first before misting fuel into the cylinder.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-07-2018 at 05:45 PM. Reason: clarification
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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier IndyBama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Did you see my edited post above about someone figuring out what was wrong with the EZ-Start system. Makes sense to me. He said that the EZ-Start system was pulling too much fuel too soon that the glow plug didn't have a chance to get hot enough first.

    They should have designed that EZ-Start wand to have a delay circuit for the starter motor. Say like five or six seconds so that your glow plug has a chance to heat up first before misting fuel into the cylinder.
    I didnt see that post til just now. Thats why i use the igniter. Put igniter on plug before trying to start n it starts no problem. Then dont have to fiddle with ez-start wires on motor. Thats the easiest fix for that problem. But he is right, it can be a bit harder to re-start because of plug not heating first

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  12. #12
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    The starter doesn't pull the fuel. That is controlled by the tune. Plus you need to verify that 1.5v is sent to the plug.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    The starter doesn't pull the fuel. That is controlled by the tune. Plus you need to verify that 1.5v is sent to the plug.

    Do you mean to say that when the starter motor is turning the crank and causing the piston to have a reciprocating motion that it isn't responsible for drawing fuel to the carburetor? I understand what the pressure line does; but that is after the motor is running that it even comes into play, unless you're priming the motor by blocking the exhaust. Then that would leave the piston responsible for sucking fuel to the carburetor wouldn't it?
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-07-2018 at 10:34 PM. Reason: clarification
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  14. #14
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    With our RC's the tank is not above the engine so it does not gravity feed. It needs to have a pump and the pump is the pressure line from the exhaust. As with any engine the piston pulls in air and fuel is pumped and sprayed into the intake. Either you block the exhaust to prime or put a primer bulb on the line. Any fuel the piston pulls will be very minimal as the component with the least resistance will be the air pulling through the carb.
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  15. #15
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    +1 to Double G. With a good plug and a proper tune the EZ start works just fine. And the fuel going to the carb without priming is very minimal and not enough to foul/wet/cool the plug.
    As for the igniter, my rechargeable lasts a very long time, weeks id say. Its made by Great Planes.
    That being said, my engine is properly tuned and takes less than 3 pulls to start, so the igniter isn't used often enough to become a charging hassle.

  16. #16
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    I have an ignitor that is a rechargeable c cell, I have had it so long that the label has worn off. It last for weeks without recharging. I forget about it sometimes and wander if it will work. I have started 4 or 5 engines, multiple times in the same day, with no problems. If your tune is good, it doesnt take very long to get started. If your tune is not good, you will get blisters, and probably get mad before you get it started
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    I use this one. You can use it all day long unless you are spending the entire day trying to start your R/C, then it will last 3/4 a day.... Even has a meter on it showing your battery level/life, also will show 0 if your glow plug is blown. https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...yn1922/p219049

    TO be honest, I don't know how long my ignitor lasts, it's never ran that far down I couldn't use it.

    Honestly when I went from EZ start to pull start and had my tuning skills on par, I found it to be an upgrade from the EZ start, less bulky things to carry, R/C is a lot lighter by about 6 Oz's, more air flow around the case and cooling head.

    It's a personal preference though.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    I use this one. You can use it all day long unless you are spending the entire day trying to start your R/C, then it will last 3/4 a day.... Even has a meter on it showing your battery level/life, also will show 0 if your glow plug is blown. https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...yn1922/p219049

    That is a really nice one. I have been looking at a lot of them the past couple of days and really haven't seen any negative reviews on any of them except for the ones that are $5 or $6 dollars. I have read that pull start gives you better feedback because you can feel the motor cranking better by feeling it through your pulls. What I didn't like reading about a pull start system is that they wear out fast and won't recoil mainly because the user was pulling the cord too far by accident and the cord is left dangling outside the recoil mechanism.

    Like I mentioned though, I'm not worried about weight savings, I just have been reading more and more lately that it is best to use the glow plug igniter and leave the electric start mechanism hooked up and just disconnect the blue glow plug wire. I also read that the glow plug wire is nothing but trouble anyway and it wears out from taking it off and putting it back on all the time because of the after run maintenance that is needed very frequently.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-12-2018 at 09:42 AM.
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  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is a really nice one. I have been looking at a lot of them the past couple of days and really haven't seen any negative reviews on any of them except for the ones that are $5 or $6 dollars. I have read that pull start gives you better feedback because you can feel the motor cranking better by feeling it through your pulls. What I didn't like reading about a pull start system is that they wear out fast and won't recoil mainly because the user was pulling the cord too far by accident and the cord is left dangling outside the recoil mechanism.

    Like I mentioned though, I'm not worried about weight savings, I just have been reading more and more lately that it is best to use the glow plug igniter and leave the electric start mechanism hooked up and just disconnect the blue glow plug wire. I also read that the glow plug wire is nothing but trouble anyway and it wears out from taking it off and putting it back on all the time because of the after run maintenance that is needed very frequently.
    Why would you need to take the pull start on and off all the time? I have ran my 3.3 from break in to 7-8 gallons before removing my pull start....

    So many use a pull start like this thing is a 10 HP four stroke and often "Over pull" the starter.... There's a trick to using a pull start, first remove the tension as you are getting ready to pull and use a tugging action so you never reach the end of the cord to turn the motor over. Also do not over tighten the mounting screws if you do have to take it off and put it on, some loctite will keep it in place all the time. Avoid anything that may rub on the cord as you are starting, this will cause the cord to fray.

    Should take 2-3 tugs with your finger over the exhaust stinger to prime a cold engine and then 1-2 tugs to start.. This is when you have your tune down pat and that my friend is the true key to recoil start happiness.

    There are 3 upgrades that are not expensive and do a lot.
    1. FOC (newer models already have that), again lighter, less rotating mass in the tranny and a stronger gearset (lees stripped gears).
    2. Replacing the 12.5.2mm white bushings in the steering bellcranks with real bearings (all models have them). You can also do the same with the throttle bell crank as well.
    3. Going recoil start. Less weight, more simple, no EZ start to carry and no worries of having to recharge or an extra battery pack.

    With this all said, I have 1 extra pull start in my spares box, for the cost, hey it's a quick fix in a pinch.

    Just my 0.02 on it.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    Why would you need to take the pull start on and off all the time? I have ran my 3.3 from break in to 7-8 gallons before removing my pull start....

    I didn't imply taking the pull start off and putting it back on all the time....... I believe I just read in my above post (the one you quoted) that I was referring to the blue glow plug wire having to be removed and put back on all the time because of the after-run maintenance that is needed all the time; not the pull start.
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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I didn't imply taking the pull start off and putting it back on all the time....... I believe I just read in my above post (the one you quoted) that I was referring to the blue glow plug wire having to be removed and put back on all the time because of the after-run maintenance that is needed all the time; not the pull start.
    Doh,,, My bad..... Still extra good tips given don't you think?? Maybe not for you but for the other readers??

    You are quite welcome.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    Still extra good tips given don't you think??

    Absolutely Nitronaught! Matter of fact, I was hoping you would chime in and give some advice. Frankly, I'm surprised that I got any replies at all considering everyone it seems is going to electric.
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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Absolutely Nitronaught! Matter of fact, I was hoping you would chime in and give some advice. Frankly, I'm surprised that I got any replies at all considering everyone it seems is going to electric.
    Well, I don't in tend on changing my screen name anytime soon. There are still enthusiests who like working on the combustion engine side of things... When I see them stop making Nitro Engines on a larger scale then I guess I will just move onto other hobbies...

    I love working on the engines, I love to modify them so they operate smoothly, effciently and make that lovely sound of Bee's on steroids!!!!
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  24. #24
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    I use a heater that takes AA sized cells. I use energizer LSD 2300mah cells in it. I charge 2 of them and keep one in my pit bag, but I have yet to run one dead even on engine break-in days. When breaking in, you could restart an engine 10+ times and a lot of times, I tend to leave it on the plug an extended amount of time because it's tuned rich and stalls otherwise.

    I use a cheap 2 cell AA holder to charge them with my charger at 1A or I use a glow plug adapter to charge each one with my charger at 1A. I have an old MRC 5A NiMH NiCAD charger I have been using for 15 years for my transmitter, receiver packs and heaters. As well as various things around the house I use the LSD aa cells in.
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