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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Checked my batteries after all my runs today and this ESC continues to run the battery on the left side down past a safe point. Took 2 cells down to 3.10. It only does it on the 3 cell batteries. The two cell batteries were cutting off at 3.40 on both sides. Very weird. I think I'm done running 6s until I get the ESC switched out. Hopefully I'll have time to do that tomorrow.
    I had the same problem, replaced it with a new esc of a different brand that allows me to adjust cut off voltage, etc. don’t let anyone tell you “it’s the batteries” , “It is impossible to happen just to one battery”, “the esc doesn’t monitor each cell” etc. the vxl-6 simply draws too much juice out of the lipos, period. After I installed a new esc, I had zero (0, nada, none) issues afterwards. Only common nominator was the vxl-6. Maybe that’s the reason Traxxas delayed deliveries on the new Revo’s?


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  2. #122
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    but this "selective" drawing from just one side, just one cell respectively of the two lipos in series is still an absolute mystery. as long as there is no comprehensible explanation pointing to this specific esc this phenomenon really remains an open question. interestingly nickruger reports it only happend on 3s batteries but not on 2s. again very interesting. i am really curious if we may reach an explanation for this in the near future.

    Don't quote me on that. Rhylsadar- do you own any protek servos? I was looking at the one that's like 650oz and it's 159.99$
    i do not own one of the current "newer" protek servos. but a few years ago i had one in 8th scale race buggy for steering. it was delivering as expected and held up fine. by now i use more futaba and team orion servos. and they are good too. but the protek seemed to be on par with them.
    Last edited by rhylsadar; 03-25-2018 at 01:43 PM.
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  3. #123
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    USPS just delivered two boxes of part #8672, pre glued Talon EXTs, on a SUNDAY. Traxxas must have used that super special shipping rate. Still waiting on my 2075 servo.

    Thinking of ordering the Savox SW-1210SG for when the 2075's crap out again.

    Noob question: Does this need a BEC? And is the stock esc putting out 6.0v? How do you get 7.4v, or is that only for aftermarket esc's?

  4. #124
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    Has anyone used these (Traxxas 2072X Servo upgrade )on the 2075 servo's

    I dont fancy spending 100 bucks on a servo right now just to make my new truck derivable.

  5. #125
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Vxl6s BEC is 6.0v. I have that servo. I can set my bec voltage in the ESC of the rig that's in and see how it does. I've only ran it at 7.4v so I couldn't tell you how it is on 6.0v. External bec is only 20$. Easy to install. If you get castle one you have to buy the link to set it too. It's factory default is 5.1v.

  6. #126
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I ran the revo today only on 4s and the saga continues. It overdrew both cells on the left side. It for sure does it worse the harder you run it. So the 6s only thing is out the window. Wish there was an explanation.

  7. #127
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    I've seen multiple reports (videos, pictures) of the rear shocks failing, stripping threads, shock ends coming out.

    It also looks like they're no longer TiNi coated shafts. I wonder if the extra weight of the wheels & tires is causing all these issues? It would cause more strain on the servos and the force on the rear may cause the shock and brace failures, too?
    From Melbourne, Australia.

  8. #128
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    E revo 2.0 broken parts list

    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    I ran the revo today only on 4s and the saga continues. It overdrew both cells on the left side. It for sure does it worse the harder you run it. So the 6s only thing is out the window. Wish there was an explanation.


    A forum member wrote this last week. I checked with a buddy of mine in Germany who is an electrical engineer and he confirmed this explanation as well. So there ya have it. Low voltage detection is set too low from factory. Traxxas should really look into this. Even if you have a stock radio you need to sped money on a bluetooth module so you can update it if a patch is released. Best to simply toss esc and get a different one. Already factored in another MM2 for when my UDR shows up at the shop. Along with a new steering servo and receiver.....



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  9. #129
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    Yeah, I have a spare monster x. I love the truck so I have been running it instead of swapping out the ESC. I'll do it this week.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cjriddle22 View Post
    L x W x H

    Battery Compartment:
    156mm x 50mm x 29mm

    I read you can squeeze a 30mm height in there, that's going to be the tight spot.

    I'm not sure on the servos. I'm going back with the 2075 at the moment because Traxxas is sending me a warranty replacement. I'm sure someone else will have an opinion.
    So thats the batt compartment size on new 2.0? So its changed from original? I thought the chassis/batt compartment was the same as 1.0

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  11. #131
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    A forum member wrote this last week. I checked with a buddy of mine in Germany who is an electrical engineer and he confirmed this explanation as well. So there ya have it. Low voltage detection is set too low from factory. Traxxas should really look into this.
    to me you still seem not to get the point of that post correctly. what is described in that post is a common electrophysical phenomenon appearing in any batteries connected in series on ANY esc. and the author of that post comfirmed that himself. and it is absolutely logical as well. furthermore the author of that post also confirmed that he was talking about a few hundredth of volts difference. furthermore he also reported that after unplugging his leds the phenomenon seemed to have disappeared in his case.

    therefore that general explanation of how batteries connected in series work still is NO explanation for your reports that it only happens on the vxl6s. furthermore there are still very few reports about this in the forums. given that thousands of e revos are out there and we have here like 3 or 4 people reporting that problem. it could easily be that only some few vxl6s esc (like yours) have this problem and it is no general issue.

    look don't get me wrong. of course there is some possibilty that there is a general problem with the esc and therefore it is good that you reported that issue. however you are just jumping to the conclusion (bad esc) way too fast! i really do not understand why you are so "on a mission" to bash that vxl6s instead of being really interested to solve this issue properly. but to each his own.

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  12. #132
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    I'm not speaking for anybody but myself, but I'm holding back bashing the vxl6s simply because I'm tired of beating a dead horse, and quite frankly I am just so over it. Sure maybe these issues are isolated to me and a few other people, but here are some facts- my ESC is a problem, my ESC could potentially be ruining hundreds of dollars of batteries, a 100-200$ component in a three week old truck that costs 550$ needs replaced. So if anyone else has experienced this, I think they have a right to be angry.

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhylsadar View Post
    to me you still seem not to get the point of that post correctly. what is described in that post is a common electrophysical phenomenon appearing in any batteries connected in series on ANY esc. and the author of that post comfirmed that himself. and it is absolutely logical as well. furthermore the author of that post also confirmed that he was talking about a few hundredth of volts difference. furthermore he also reported that after unplugging his leds the phenomenon seemed to have disappeared in his case.

    therefore that general explanation of how batteries connected in series work still is NO explanation for your reports that it only happens on the vxl6s. furthermore there are still very few reports about this in the forums. given that thousands of e revos are out there and we have here like 3 or 4 people reporting that problem. it could easily be that only some few vxl6s esc (like yours) have this problem and it is no general issue.

    look don't get me wrong. of course there is some possibilty that there is a general problem with the esc and therefore it is good that you reported that issue. however you are just jumping to the conclusion (bad esc) way too fast! i really do not understand why you are so "on a mission" to bash that vxl6s instead of being really interested to solve this issue properly. but to each his own.

    bye,
    rhylsadar
    And you don’t seem to get the fact that I KNOW it will happen with ANY ESC regardless of brand. It doesn’t change the FACT that the low voltage detection is set TOO LOW on the stock esc causing the phenomenon described above. Since there is no way to ADJUST the stock esc, the only way to fix the issue is to replace it and hoping that sooner or later there will be a firmware update.


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  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    So thats the batt compartment size on new 2.0? So its changed from original? I thought the chassis/batt compartment was the same as 1.0

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    I copy and pasted those measurements from the Traxxas website. I do not know if it is the same as the 1.0.

  15. #135
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    And you don’t seem to get the fact that I KNOW it will happen with ANY ESC regardless of brand. It doesn’t change the FACT that the low voltage detection is set TOO LOW on the stock esc causing the phenomenon described above.
    good to know that you know. but then you know that there have to be other explanations for the described low voltages on some cells on the vxl6s.

    one hypothesis is that the phenomenon is strongly boosted with a low voltage cut off. you claim that the lvc is set way too low on the vxl6s. so what was the total overall voltage on your batteries?

    all information we have so far is that a guy called trx and they said it would be around 3.7-3.8v/c which would not correspond with your experience right?

    i personally would wonder if trx would set a lvc very low as a default. but who knows. that would really be interesting. or if there is a possibility that the lvc may be set wrong on some esc? or if the lvc could somehow be "changed" accidentally?

    maybe i will set the lvc quite low on one of my mambas or other esc so see what will happen. the phenomenon should then occur also. interesting stuff.

    bye,
    rhylsadar
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  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhylsadar View Post
    good to know that you know. but then you know that there have to be other explanations for the described low voltages on some cells on the vxl6s.

    one hypothesis is that the phenomenon is strongly boosted with a low voltage cut off. you claim that the lvc is set way too low on the vxl6s. so what was the total overall voltage on your batteries?

    all information we have so far is that a guy called trx and they said it would be around 3.7-3.8v/c which would not correspond with your experience right?

    i personally would wonder if trx would set a lvc very low as a default. but who knows. that would really be interesting. or if there is a possibility that the lvc may be set wrong on some esc? or if the lvc could somehow be "changed" accidentally?

    maybe i will set the lvc quite low on one of my mambas or other esc so see what will happen. the phenomenon should then occur also. interesting stuff.

    bye,
    rhylsadar
    No way to adjust it. The only thing I might do if I get the UDR is to calibrate it with fully charged lipos maybe? 3.7-3.8V is wishful thinking. If it were set to that value, I don’t believe that problem would occur. At first I thought the same thing as everyone else suggested, bad packs, wrong setting etc., but when I heard of others having the exact same issue I knew it wasn’t me. Since I don’t plan to use the stock esc anyhow I’m not concerned to get to the bottom of it either. Maybe we’ll hear Traxxas re-calling or re configuring their esc’s in the future, after more people are experiencing issues, or houses catch on fire, because your average person that doesn’t check voltage try to re charge them when they’re below 3.0V. and blow them up.... until then it is what it is....


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  17. #137
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    The battery compartment on the 2.0 is a little bigger. These are the SPC 3s I run. They fit very snug in the 1.0. But in the 2.0 there's room for them to move around. I know you guys won't be able too tell from the picture, I'm just showing you how I came to this conclusion.

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    Last edited by davew; 03-26-2018 at 04:51 PM.

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by davew View Post
    The battery compartment on the 2.0 is a little bigger. These are the SPC 3s I run. They fit very snug in the 1.0. But in the 2.0 there's room for them to move around. I know you guys won't be able too tell from the picture, I'm just showing you how I came to this conclusion.

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    What mAh capacity are the SPC 3s?

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsear2905 View Post
    I've seen multiple reports (videos, pictures) of the rear shocks failing, stripping threads, shock ends coming out.

    It also looks like they're no longer TiNi coated shafts. I wonder if the extra weight of the wheels & tires is causing all these issues? It would cause more strain on the servos and the force on the rear may cause the shock and brace failures, too?
    Well, I just replaced both shock ends on my v1 and installed a set of standard 3.8 trenchers because I like them on my savage flux so much. It lasted 7 minutes and ripped the brand new shock end off. Then lasted 3 minutes and snapped the new one I put on out in the field in half. I was getting maybe 2 feet of air... will have to go back to revo tires if "big" tires is the issue, which kind of defeats the purpose as to why I installed "big" tires. They add cushion to landings. And apparently too much strain on extension.

    I've been hunting for better pushrod ends and shock ends for years with my nitro revo's and it seems the erevo has even more of an issue wearing them out and breaking them. Guessing the 2 9000mah 2S packs I'm running are just too much strain too. Was really hoping the 2.0 rod ends would be light at the end of a long tunnel...
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  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by dronenewbie View Post
    So there ya have it. Low voltage detection is set too low from factory. Traxxas should really look into this.
    Didn't they have it set to low on the V1 ERBE as well? I know that was something I changed immediately using a castle link before running mine when I got it last year. I think it came set at 3.2V and was suggested you set it to at least 3.5V. Since it was my first leap into Lipo and electric, I wanted to make it as painless as possible.

    Pretty sure the vxl3s esc is set to 3.2V as well, but you can't change it.

    You get more run time setting to 3.2V, but obviously, it's not as safe. Especially with the more cells you run. The math gets too far off with more than a couple cells to mess around at 3.2V.
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  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cjriddle22 View Post
    What mAh capacity are the SPC 3s?
    5600, very good packs. I'm still upset SPC doesn't sell lipos anymore.

  22. #142
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    No way to adjust it. The only thing I might do if I get the UDR is to calibrate it with fully charged lipos maybe? 3.7-3.8V is wishful thinking. If it were set to that value, I don’t believe that problem would occur. At first I thought the same thing as everyone else suggested, bad packs, wrong setting etc., but when I heard of others having the exact same issue I knew it wasn’t me. Since I don’t plan to use the stock esc anyhow I’m not concerned to get to the bottom of it either. Maybe we’ll hear Traxxas re-calling or re configuring their esc’s in the future, after more people are experiencing issues, or houses catch on fire, because your average person that doesn’t check voltage try to re charge them when they’re below 3.0V. and blow them up.... until then it is what it is.
    yeah i know the lvd not adjustable. but it can be disabled. maybe that could happen accidentally. its ok that you are not concerned because you won't use the vxl6s anymore. thats fine. however many others will and therefore it will be really interesting to find out what is going on here.

    thus it would really be important to know at what level the default lvd in the new vxl6s is set.
    it would also be interesting if somebody could check with a little wattmeter what amps the e revo 2.0 is drawing under full load. i could easily imagine that the issue could be intensified the heavier the fullload draw is on the batteries.

    Didn't they have it set to low on the V1 ERBE as well? I know that was something I changed immediately using a castle link before running mine when I got it last year. I think it came set at 3.2V and was suggested you set it to at least 3.5V.
    yep that is interesting. i don't remember exactly what was the default lvd setting on the labled mamba esc in the e revo.

    its also interesting that i run a lvc setting of 3.2V/c in almost all my cars and never experienced such big "voltage difference issues" so far.

    bye,
    rhylsadar
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  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by dronenewbie View Post
    after more people are experiencing issues, or houses catch on fire, because your average person that doesn’t check voltage try to re charge them when they’re below 3.0V. and blow them up.... until then it is what it is....
    Im not suggesting to anyone to do this, Im only telling you my experience. Ive accidentally run lipos well below 3.0v per cell. When new in hobby and didnt have lvc on, once when accidentally got batts mixed up and put a fully charged charged one with one already down to 3.2v per cell in Spartan, once when a friend borrowed 4s and didnt have lvc on and didnt realize it til rc was going slow. Lowest Ive seen is 1.9v per cell. I charged in garage on concrete in lipo bags to be safe and none have blown up or caught fire, in fact never even heated up or even got slightly warm. From what I know through my own experiences and reading a lot on lipos(I do not claim to be an expert), is taking a lipo below 3v per cell only damages cells to the point of not wanting to take a charge and/or shortening the life of the battery. The fire hazard comes in trying to charge above 4.2v per cell or shorting out cells.

    Wasnt 1.0 esc a mm2, so I can see castle link working to reset lvc.


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    Last edited by Briber; 03-27-2018 at 10:16 AM.
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  24. #144
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    Let me chime in on this, after my vxl6s died I put the mm2 (mxl6s) ESC and blx2000kv (4075) system that previously resided in my 1.0 ERBE. Now, with that system in, geared a tad more conservative (18/50 for 2.0, 21/50 for 1.0) on the same SMC 9000mah 2s packs, the 2.0 has about half the run time as the 1.0 did. I'll get 25min on the 2.0 where as the same ESC and motor, geared higher, went 50min give or take. No settings were changed on the ESC from one application to the other, only difference was gearing. So, what does this tell us? My belief is, the new 2.0 requires quite a bit more power to get moving. This will tax the batteries more, thus, highlighting the individual cell drop in a battery. Has anyone put brand new, matched batteries in this thing? I imagine the situation gets worse with used batteries, where the IR of cells aren't exactly match. Any thoughts? Please share.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  25. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    Let me chime in on this, after my vxl6s died I put the mm2 (mxl6s) ESC and blx2000kv (4075) system that previously resided in my 1.0 ERBE. Now, with that system in, geared a tad more conservative (18/50 for 2.0, 21/50 for 1.0) on the same SMC 9000mah 2s packs, the 2.0 has about half the run time as the 1.0 did. I'll get 25min on the 2.0 where as the same ESC and motor, geared higher, went 50min give or take. No settings were changed on the ESC from one application to the other, only difference was gearing. So, what does this tell us? My belief is, the new 2.0 requires quite a bit more power to get moving. This will tax the batteries more, thus, highlighting the individual cell drop in a battery. Has anyone put brand new, matched batteries in this thing? I imagine the situation gets worse with used batteries, where the IR of cells aren't exactly match. Any thoughts? Please share.
    Curious how different the overall gear ratio is. The diffs are different and I thought they regeared the trans as well. Any idea if the "conservative" overall gearing your running is similar to the gearing in the v1 revo?

    The diffs are basically going from 1/10 to 1/8 weight, some rotational mass added, the steel cvd's, some more rotational mass, the tires, a bit more mass... so I could see it taking more, but hard to imagine with the same overall gear ratio it would cut your run time in half.

    I do notice between my erbe v1 and my savage flux, I loose about 8 minutes of run time using the same smc 9000mah 2s packs, go from 40min to 33min. It has basically all the extra rotational mass the v2 revo has over the erbe. I was using the old flux esc, which was the mamba monster v1 (non waterproof mm2/2200kv torque motor).
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  26. #146
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    I have not looked into FDR. In the new ERBE. I do know it's heavier and that's about it. I have to imagine that the cush drive and center diff is different than the transmission, though how vastly it differs I don't know. Just an observation from a mostly controlled experiment. I'll say this, 21/50 on 4s with the blx 2000kv motor gave me same speed as stock 15/54 2200kv on 6s in the 2.0
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  27. #147
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    So, what does this tell us? My belief is, the new 2.0 requires quite a bit more power to get moving. This will tax the batteries more, thus, highlighting the individual cell drop in a battery. Has anyone put brand new, matched batteries in this thing? I imagine the situation gets worse with used batteries, where the IR of cells aren't exactly match. Any thoughts? Please share.
    that would make perfect sense to me. some measurement of the amp draw completely stock would be interesting.

    as for the gear ratio i saw a chart on page 27 in the manual. comparing that to the old manual on page 22.
    that would mean 21/50 in the new e revo 2.0 would be a way longer ratio than 15/54 in old erbe. so that would fit with the idea that on 4s the new one is maybe as fast as the old one on 6s with that gearing.

    bye,
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    Last edited by rhylsadar; 03-27-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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  28. #148
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    I had 3 sets of matched brand new batteries. It ran them all down. 1 set of SMC 3s , 1 set of SMC 2s, 1 set of Gens Ace 3s. As far As run times being lowered by the beefed up drivetrain, I'm not an engineer, but I did experience this in my slash 4x4. I went to full revo diffs with significantly heavier oil, and MIP driveshafts. My run times went down, and my batteries got warmer.

  29. #149
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    Just to clarify, 21/50 on 4s= old ERBE
    15/54 on 6s= new E-Revo
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    ah sorry got it the wrong way round.
    so your gearing on the old erbe was quite long.
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  31. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhylsadar View Post
    ah sorry got it the wrong way round.
    so your gearing on the old erbe was quite long.
    Yes sir it was, that motor loved it though. I went up to 18/50 in the new Revo when I switched over the motor and ESC. 6s was insane but she ran a little hot. 4s is fun but I might put the 15 tooth pinion back in and run 6s to check temps.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  32. #152
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    Got my revo back from traxxas with a new esc, motor, and 2 new tires. Took it out and bashed at the skatepark with no damage and esc cut off at 3.5~ on all cells on 6s
    Took it out today and 2 cells on one battery were at 3.15 with the rest at 3.5. A good balance charge got them all back up. I think i will stop on the 1st low power warning from now on and check the cells. I did lose one of the older tires on the last run this thing is a beast. Whats a good replacement for the stock wheels and tires?
    Always broken

  33. #153
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    I'm bias, but anything proline for me. I started a little tire thread. So far I think I like the proline shockwaves the best. They don't ballon bad at all, they will save you over a pound in weight and they are pretty good all around traction wise. I can't comment on wear, I hardly run on pavement so tires last me a good while.

  34. #154
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    I just did a 6s run on those big ol trenchers, nothing broke even with 2 self righting procedures. I hated those tires on my old ERBE, between the clunkiness of them and the certain diff failure. This new 2.0 actually preforms really well with them. They still are a bit clunky but for some reason it handled the added weight well. That being said, I actually do like the new talons also. Shockwave's are the go to tire on my old ERBE, I think I'll give them a try on the new one.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  35. #155
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    Fancy- did you run the trenchers with the vxl6s and the stock motor? I know you swapped everything out for the mxl6s and the blx 2000kv. You confirmed they passed the driveline test, just wondering if they pass the vxl6s test. I know a lot of guys are still running stock electrics and you could run golf cart tires with that setup you have.

  36. #156
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Fancy- did you run the trenchers with the vxl6s and the stock motor? I know you swapped everything out for the mxl6s and the blx 2000kv. You confirmed they passed the driveline test, just wondering if they pass the vxl6s test. I know a lot of guys are still running stock electrics and you could run golf cart tires with that setup you have.
    I have not put the vxl system back in, I did however change the ESC from the mm2 to a hobby wing ezrun max8. So, the setup on the truck running the trenchers was, max8 ESC, blx2000kv (4075 motor) 15/50 gearing on 6s. I sent this thing flying too, I was surprised nothing broke. I have also replaced the rear brace with the Traxxas aluminum one off the old ERBE. Most times I've seen people with shock issues that plastic brace brakes as well. Maybe an aluminum rear brace is as big a necessity for this 2.0 as it is for the O.G. ERBE. Just my thoughts.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  37. #157
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    I bent a push rod. LHS had a 2 pack in stock.

  38. #158
    RC Champion nickruger's Avatar
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    On a good note my ESC was fine today. On a negative note, my servos finally paid the piper today.

  39. #159
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    So if I swap the two servos for one good Savox or two Savox I will be fine for running? Also, for 70mph runs like Traxxas advertize using correct gear and 6S, which tire is good? From searching videos I see that the stock tires baloon a lot for 50mph, I think they are not the best for 70mph, what do you guys suggest?

  40. #160
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    Couldnt find shockwaves at the hobby shop, so i picked up some PL badlands. They are half the width and dont have enough mass to self right, but are very stable and like to slide alittle more. I like them but diffenently not a straight replacement.
    Always broken

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