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  1. #1
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    Traxxas Rustler VXL Upgrading Confusion.

    So my current motor is the velion vxl system 3350R I think. It currently goes 53 max mph. I would like to get it to 75 mph at the minimum. I have done a lot of upgrades to the car to make it stronger, not faster as I knew that if I make it faster, lots of stock parts would brake. I am now to the stage of making it actually go faster. I currently have the gearing 83/28. I have the anaconda wheels 2.8. I am prepared to get new foam wheels with the nut conversion if the anaconda wheels will balloon at 70+ mph. I am currently upgrading my transmission for a steel idler gear and the Hot Racing TE38CH Sealed Aluminum Differential Case from amazon. I have done some research and found that 1415 castle motor could work as the forum said 90+ mph but the manufacture that commented on the amazon site said 60+ that motor would go. Another forum said to do a 1/8th scale motor but I would have to get a different tranny case and I looked and found the open source tranny case they were talking about. However, would that case work for both 1/8th scale and 1/10th scale? I would be changing out the motor when I go bashing vs street racing. I would just keep the esc that can handle the bigger motor on since the esc would obviously be able to handle the smaller motor too then. My battery currently is 11.1V 5000 mAh. I am prepared to get a batter battery like 4s or 6s depending on the motor. I have 3 of the 11.1v battery, so idk if it is better just for me to get the series connector Traxxas offers and run 2 for 22.2V total if the esc can handle it? Does the 1415 motor really go 60+ or 90+? Do I need anything else? I heard a new controller may be needed. Forum recommended the rc speed calculator site but that site doesn't work well as the voltage of the battery only went up to an option of 4.2 Volts, so ***. Everyone uses at least 7.4 volt battery. Any help would be great, and I am new on this forum by the way and to rc cars. Please post a hyperlink for the motor since there a few of the same motor, I think the difference is the pole or something. Anyways, thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Amistry20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by demsea16 View Post
    So my current motor is the velion vxl system 3350R I think. It currently goes 53 max mph. I would like to get it to 75 mph at the minimum. I have done a lot of upgrades to the car to make it stronger, not faster as I knew that if I make it faster, lots of stock parts would brake. I am now to the stage of making it actually go faster. I currently have the gearing 83/28. I have the anaconda wheels 2.8. I am prepared to get new foam wheels with the nut conversion if the anaconda wheels will balloon at 70+ mph. I am currently upgrading my transmission for a steel idler gear and the Hot Racing TE38CH Sealed Aluminum Differential Case from amazon. I have done some research and found that 1415 castle motor could work as the forum said 90+ mph but the manufacture that commented on the amazon site said 60+ that motor would go. Another forum said to do a 1/8th scale motor but I would have to get a different tranny case and I looked and found the open source tranny case they were talking about. However, would that case work for both 1/8th scale and 1/10th scale? I would be changing out the motor when I go bashing vs street racing. I would just keep the esc that can handle the bigger motor on since the esc would obviously be able to handle the smaller motor too then. My battery currently is 11.1V 5000 mAh. I am prepared to get a batter battery like 4s or 6s depending on the motor. I have 3 of the 11.1v battery, so idk if it is better just for me to get the series connector Traxxas offers and run 2 for 22.2V total if the esc can handle it? Does the 1415 motor really go 60+ or 90+? Do I need anything else? I heard a new controller may be needed. Forum recommended the rc speed calculator site but that site doesn't work well as the voltage of the battery only went up to an option of 4.2 Volts, so ***. Everyone uses at least 7.4 volt battery. Any help would be great, and I am new on this forum by the way and to rc cars. Please post a hyperlink for the motor since there a few of the same motor, I think the difference is the pole or something. Anyways, thanks in advance.
    Welcome to the forums!
    To go 70mph, you would need 76t spur and a 31 or higher pinion with the vxl -3s system
    Some people have said that they have lost speed due to foam tires. Jconcepts G-locs should be okay for 70mph
    Just my 2 cents
    I ask way to many questions

  3. #3
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    4.2 volts per cell. Then enter the number of cells. What esc did you have, stock? Change the gearing as stated above. See if that gets you what you want. The motor plate will accept both motor can sizes

  4. #4
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    Ok I tried the rc calculations site with the per cell voltage in mind and entered in with the current velieon motor that I have with the spur you guys recommended of 76/31 and said my max speed would be 57.04 mph, you guys said that set up would go 70 mph, so either you guys are wrong, the site is wrong, or I entered in something wrong. Also, I said I wanted to go 75 mph at the MINIMUM. So I know that I need a better motor. Which motor do I need to get, the 1415 or the 1/8 scale motor? If the 1/8th scale motor, do I need to change the transmission gears or is the upgraded gears that I am putting in be fine? I know I have to change the gearing to 76/31 no matter what. I will do that.

  5. #5
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    I ran 76mph on 76/33. With Jconcepts Glocs and a 3S battery.

  6. #6
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    The glocs will balloon at 70mph. I have a set that i gooped and fiber glassed to prevent the ballooning. have not tried them yet. You can always try the GRPs. 4 or 5. You can go as fast as you want on those. Just need to keep up good maintenance on them which is checking for imperfections such as cracks or coming loose from the rim. Good luck with the speed runs. I just finished building my rusty for speed runs. I went with a 1/8 scale I have the MMX with the 2650kv.

    Sure that will get me as fast as i want to go...... If not I have the 2200 on my p4de. if I feel the need. I can swap.

    You can take the spur gear lower than that with a 1/8 scale motor, for more top speed....Think I got that right.
    Last edited by lektro; 03-11-2018 at 09:11 PM.
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  7. #7
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    So I think I found the GRP wheels you were talking about on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mxfans-Pieces...ip+4+wheels+rc
    However, these wheels do not have the rims with them. Are there ones with the rims that I can buy? About the motor, ok I will go with the 1/8th scale and get the open tranny case. What spur gear should I lower it to then? So I would have x/31 gearing. Also, does an esc that works with a 1/8th scale motor also connect to a 1/10 scale motor or are the gauge size of the wires different to the point where it wouldn't work? Like I said, I would be changing the motors depending on if I am bashing vs speed runs. Also, will the current transmission gears like the idler gear work for a 1/8th scale size motor? I think for the 1/8 scale motor, I will go with this one from amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1GQDAFE4QGJK8

    However, it has a 5mm shaft size, so do I need to specify that when buying the spur and pinion gear or exactly what is that referring to?

    The tranny case will be this: https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-TE.../dp/B00XF8KNEM

    So would those 2 things be good?
    Last edited by demsea16; 03-11-2018 at 09:47 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    The glocs will balloon at 70mph. I have a set that i gooped and fiber glassed to prevent the ballooning. have not tried them yet. You can always try the GRPs. 4 or 5. You can go as fast as you want on those. Just need to keep up good maintenance on them which is checking for imperfections such as cracks or coming loose from the rim. Good luck with the speed runs. I just finished building my rusty for speed runs. I went with a 1/8 scale I have the MMX with the 2650kv.

    Sure that will get me as fast as i want to go...... If not I have the 2200 on my p4de. if I feel the need. I can swap.

    You can take the spur gear lower than that with a 1/8 scale motor, for more top speed....Think I got that right.
    Keep in mind the 2200 is more powerful
    But slower given rpmís per volt.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by demsea16 View Post
    So I think I found the GRP wheels you were talking about on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mxfans-Pieces...ip+4+wheels+rc
    However, these wheels do not have the rims with them. Are there ones with the rims that I can buy? About the motor, ok I will go with the 1/8th scale and get the open tranny case. What spur gear should I lower it to then? So I would have x/31 gearing. Also, does an esc that works with a 1/8th scale motor also connect to a 1/10 scale motor or are the gauge size of the wires different to the point where it wouldn't work? Like I said, I would be changing the motors depending on if I am bashing vs speed runs. Also, will the current transmission gears like the idler gear work for a 1/8th scale size motor? I think for the 1/8 scale motor, I will go with this one from amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1GQDAFE4QGJK8

    However, it has a 5mm shaft size, so do I need to specify that when buying the spur and pinion gear or exactly what is that referring to?

    The tranny case will be this: https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-TE.../dp/B00XF8KNEM

    So would those 2 things be good?
    Youíll want to switch to mod 1 gearing, depending on your motor choice will depend on how tall you can gear. I run the MMX with a Poseidon 2650kv on 6S. I run 34/34 mod 1 gears

  10. #10
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    What does "mod 1" gears mean and are they required? For the tires, are there ones with the rims all attached to the tire? Do the gauge of the wires match up when doing 1/8th and a 1/10th size motor to a esc that handles 1/8th? Do I need different transmission gears like the idler gear when I switch to the 1/8th size motor that I specified earlier? What exactly does the 5mm shaft tell me, like which hole for the pinion gear size? Is the 1/8th size motor that I picked fine or do I have to go with the Posiden? These are all questions I asked that didn't get answered other than a few of them. Sorry, I am just so frustrated that I just want the questions answered and that is it. I want to order the parts, then get them on the traxxas rustler and go run it. I am so worried that I am going to order something like the tranny box I mention and find out that it doesn't work for 1/10 scale or 1/8 scale as it needs to be for both, or something like that and then have to wait a month to get something else. Thanks for all the help btw.

  11. #11
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    Where to start... shaft size 5mm will require 5mm pinion gears, either 32p or 48p. 1/8 scale motor probs best go 32p but will require different spur gears and probs best upgrade slipper too then driveshafts. Youll need 17mm adaptors to run 1/8 scale wheels too

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  12. #12
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    You should try reading more first. Enter GRP RC tires into any search engine, youíll find the wheels and tires youíre searching for. You can use any motor you choose. The gauge wire will be specified by the manufacturer or prewired. 5mm would be the motor shaft size, also specified with the literature. Your wheel hubs stock are 12mm, if you choose wheels with a larger hub youíll need the adapters. This is not a black and white hobby. You canít just go barking what do I need. Take a step back and get your learn on. Then make your own decisions

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    You should try reading more first. Enter GRP RC tires into any search engine, youíll find the wheels and tires youíre searching for. You can use any motor you choose. The gauge wire will be specified by the manufacturer or prewired. 5mm would be the motor shaft size, also specified with the literature. Your wheel hubs stock are 12mm, if you choose wheels with a larger hub youíll need the adapters. This is not a black and white hobby. You canít just go barking what do I need. Take a step back and get your learn on. Then make your own decisions
    Well said

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    So I am trying to "get my learn on." Anyways, I looked up and found that mod 1 sort of means that it refers to another type of gearing system, specifically 5mm for the hole. So I looked up the 32p pinion gear you guys told me about and found this on amazon and yes it has the 5mm hole:https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5646-...70_&dpSrc=srch

    So would that be good?

    The guage wire I learned that my current motor connect with a 3.5mm connector, which is what the vxl esc has. However, the 1/8th motor requires a 6.5mm connector. The 1/8th scale esc runs on 25.2V operation. So I would be fine swamping the motors on the 1/8th scale esc except I would need to convert from 3.5mm to 6.5mm wire. So I looked around google and couldn't find a 3.5 to 6.5 adapter wire. Is there such a thing out there? I really do not want to have to take out the esc every time too or else I would have to rebind the receiver every time too. I already knew that I would have to get wheel hub adapters for the changing to different bigger tired. I am prepared for that. I already know where to get the convert kit for the wheel hub. However, the GRP wheels I found these with them already assembled: https://www.ebay.com/i/231834011485?chn=ps
    So these is what you guys are talking about right?

    I looked up mod1 spur gears and found a 44T spur gear, so would this work:https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...63825?v=199128

    You guys also mentioned upgrading slipper and drive shaft, would I am assuming because of the bigger motor means more torgue and thus these parts would break easily. So I found heavy duty: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Heavy...SX9VP1M2AJH702

    with the plat here:https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5351-...N3SXXS41J3TXJG

    So would this work to make it tougher?

    I know that my differential will be upgraded as I have that part. Anyways, I am sorry about not doing a little research before as I think I have it now as you can see. I was just really tired before I posted this last night and then went to bed. I know that isn't an excuse. Anyways, any suggestions or am I good with those parts that I mentioned? I did the research part as you can see. The only problem I am having is find a link to a product that converts 3.5mm to 6.5mm wire. If you guys could help with that part, that would be great. Thanks.

  15. #15
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Young man! I know you are anxious, but you need to slow down with the questions. We are all here to help each other out but not sure everyone has time to answer them all. Many of us here do our research then ask the questions as grip said. Slow down a bit, your vehicle will be around for a while.... no disrespect here. Just trying to help.

    Keep in mind the 2200 is more powerful
    But slower given rpmís per volt.
    So if i gear down, the 2200kv will still be slower grip?
    Last edited by lektro; 03-12-2018 at 07:01 PM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Young man! I know you are anxious, but you need to slow down with the questions. We are all here to help each other out but not sure everyone has time to answer them all. Many of us here do our research then ask the questions as grip said. Slow down a bit, your vehicle will be around for a while.... no disrespect here. Just trying to help.



    So if i gear down, the 2200kv will still be slower grip?
    Gearing up will give you more top end. I just donít think you would need more motor than a 2650 with the Rusty. I think for 4x4 the 2200 is a better choice. Youíve got them where they belong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Young man! I know you are anxious, but you need to slow down with the questions. We are all here to help each other out but not sure everyone has time to answer them all. Many of us here do our research then ask the questions as grip said. Slow down a bit, your vehicle will be around for a while.... no disrespect here. Just trying to help.



    So if i gear down, the 2200kv will still be slower grip?

    I don't think I asked that question on my last post. Anyways, my last post really did not have that many questions as they're just confirmation questions that just needed a yes or no as I did my research. There was only 1 question that my research did not solve which was if there was a 3.5mm to 6.5mm adapter converter wire for esc since when I am changing motors, I wouldn't have to change esc also and in turn rebind it every time too. So as you can see, there is just one real question after all my research, I just need that one answered pretty good and then just a yes or no answer to my other questions.

  18. #18
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    OK demsea! I will do some research on this for you as far as an adapter. I myself, have never run into this question...

    1. tires yes

    2. wrong spur gear. Traxxas is a 3 hole design. I would look into the gen 3 robinson racing slipper clutch/spur gear all in one. I wold also get pinions from same place...Built tough!

    3. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0Y3-00EB-00FC1 The connectors are available. These are from asia. Check the castle website...hmmm seems they only have 4mm and up

    Do you solder? you can easily make your own....
    Last edited by lektro; 03-13-2018 at 02:28 PM.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    OK demsea! I will do some research on this for you as far as an adapter. I myself, have never run into this question...

    1. tires yes

    2. wrong spur gear. Traxxas is a 3 hole design. I would look into the gen 3 robinson racing slipper clutch/spur gear all in one. I wold also get pinions from same place...Built tough!

    3. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0Y3-00EB-00FC1 The connectors are available. These are from asia. Check the castle website...hmmm seems they only have 4mm and up

    Do you solder? you can easily make your own....

    1. Ok so I will get those tires.
    2. The spur gear and slipper clutch from robinson racing seems like they have everything but the rustler version as you said it has to be a 3 hole design. So it has to be a 3 hole design right? However, from your number 2, you said wrong spur gear and then recommended the slippger clutch from robinson racing, so is the slipper clutch that I gave wrong?
    3. I do solder and the link you gave is actually what I needed so idk why you said they only have 4mm and up when it says 3.5 to 6.5, but its perfect. Thanks again for the help by the way.
    Last edited by demsea16; 03-13-2018 at 10:46 PM.

  20. #20
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Yes it does have to be 3 hole to make it work with the Traxxas slipper clutch. Check out the pic in post 3
    https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-St...SIN=B00A2980N8

    Yes the one you picked out is wrong.

    I was talking about the castle web site that did not have 3.5mm plugs. From what I have seen so far. The only companies that sell the 3.5 to 6.5 are overseas. I have seen a bunch of 4mm to 6.5mm adapters.

    I think you should solder you own. This way you can make the correct length.

    http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/revo33.html

    Check out the first item here. This will work and it is mod 1 gear

    Last edited by lektro; 03-14-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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  21. #21
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Normally I suggest 1/8th scale systems, but in your case I would strongly advise against it. You WILL burn through transmission gears. You WILL mesh driveshafts if you bash. You are underestimating the power and torque of these motors. I would stay with a 1/10th power system and play it safe. Low kv and gear it low


    Also what you're trying to do with connectors is impossible. There is a reason our more powerful systems have bigger connectors, to handle the power. The thinner gauge wire wouldn't hold up.

    Expecting to be able to use an 1/8th scale motor on 25 volts to bash is too demanding on a 2wd transmission. You add TONS of weight to the whole system.
    Last edited by WonderMelon; 03-14-2018 at 08:19 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    Normally I suggest 1/8th scale systems, but in your case I would strongly advise against it. You WILL burn through transmission gears. You WILL mesh driveshafts if you bash. You are underestimating the power and torque of these motors. I would stay with a 1/10th power system and play it safe. Low kv and gear it low


    Also what you're trying to do with connectors is impossible. There is a reason our more powerful systems have bigger connectors, to handle the power. The thinner gauge wire wouldn't hold up.

    Expecting to be able to use an 1/8th scale motor on 25 volts to bash is too demanding on a 2wd transmission. You add TONS of weight to the whole system.
    First of all, I know not to bash with 1/8th scale set up. That is why I wanted a converter so I can change to 1/10 scale for bashing and 1/8th for street set up. You speak of burning through transmission gears, that is why in my original post, I am upgrading my transmission with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I will be replacing the idler gear with a steel idler gear. Even if the connectors don't work out, I will just have to change out the esc and motor with rebinding every time. It really shouldn't take too long. However, I don't know why the convert wouldn't work since the esc that handles 1/8th motor, should be able to handle a lesser 1/10 motor too. The 1/8 esc can take more voltage than I am running now and of course can handle the amps too. I need weight to keep it off the ground, however, I understand what your saying since the weight would be added to the back. There are a few ways around this:

    A. Add lead weight to the front.
    B. Be a good driver and don't just hit the trigger all the way, gradually work the car up to speed.
    C. Add a wheelie bar.

    So I got some options for that weight issue.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    Yes it does have to be 3 hole to make it work with the Traxxas slipper clutch. Check out the pic in post 3
    https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-St...SIN=B00A2980N8

    Yes the one you picked out is wrong.

    I was talking about the castle web site that did not have 3.5mm plugs. From what I have seen so far. The only companies that sell the 3.5 to 6.5 are overseas. I have seen a bunch of 4mm to 6.5mm adapters.

    I think you should solder you own. This way you can make the correct length.

    http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/revo33.html

    Check out the first item here. This will work and it is mod 1 gear

    I know that with soldering, the gauge of the solder determines the amount of voltage or amps the solder can handle. It also depends on the iron itself. The gauge of my solder is pretty small, so I will have to go get some bigger solder anyways. I hope my iron would be able to handle it but I don't know why not. I will try that link to newegg with the converter first and if it fails, I will solder. It is weird because I did not think newegg would have that kind of stuff so I never checked there. I do know newegg as I purchased things there for building my gaming rig. I know a lot more about computers/tech than RC cars. Anyways, the second link to robinson racing says it is for the traxxas revo, I have a rustler. It also has more than 3 holes which you said it has to be 3 holes? Your referring to part number 7738 on that site right?

  24. #24
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    I was trying to warn you, Ive had all steel transmissions on the street blow up with 1/8th scale motors. Before you solder I definitely recommend heatshrink over tape. I also used a 2inch wide by 4 inch long quarter plate of lead to balance my rustler. Get the wide arm kit, you'll need the longer camber and other links. If you're going with an 1/8th scale, I recommend the hot racing case for your transmission. The plastic and metal one, save a few bones to spend else where. Like steel gears for your motor. Don't even think about aluminum, they get chewed up, no gear covers available for 32pitch gears, and no need. I've ran mine in sand, water, rocks gravel and dirt. Not a scratch. Driving safely and slowing isn't fun, you aren't paying for a powerful system to just drive safe and slow right? Like your PC, you didn't buy an expensive GPU to play minesweeper right? I'm not one to try and tell you what you can and can't do, I'm just here to tell you what happens if you choose something. I've never had at issue with the stock clutch, I've melted plastic gears from it slipping, but its never wore out yet.

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    Define blow up. And ok I will try heatshrink, works just as fine as soldering so what the heck. Using lead to balance the rustler is one of the techniques that I mentioned and I was thinking about that techniqure. What do you mean by "wide arm kid?" You're a bit vague there. The camper links and other links you can actually extend them by turning them a certain direction, I would have to go turn my current ones to find out which way extends it. Ok, I will get the transmission case from hot racing, what does it matter xd, as long as it is an open tranny case. Steel gears for my motor? You mean steel gear referring to pinion and spur as metal? If you combine metal on metal, you will have a lot of friction in which friction causes heat. So in summary, it is going to get hot quick. That is why I kinda wanted to do one of them as metal and the other as plastic so less heat, however, the plastic one will go out more but plastic is cheap compared to metal. Or by steel gears you could mean in the transmission itself, which I already stated that I am putting a steel idiler with the upgrade tranny kit as well that I mentioned, so check if this is what you mean. Don't think about aluminum as they get chewed up? So you mean scratches and stuff right? As long as it doesn't bend or crack or brake completely, I really could care less as every RC car is going to get scratches on it. Heck, my old tranny case must have had a thousand scratches on it before I finally replaced it. So no to the 32 pitch pinion gear? What gearing do you recommend then? Not a scratch eh? Bold claim, not for sure if I believe you as your telling me that if I were to go look at your rc car, there wouldn't be a single scratch or scrap on it? And yes I buy a powerful GPU to play at least 60 fps at 4K display resolution playing triple A titles. Your definition of wore out and melted imply that one still works and the other doesn't. In reality, you can't run a gear that has melted like that just doesn't make any logical sense. So by wore out you mean like some of the teeth go broken off and thus slipping.

  26. #26
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    I know that with soldering, the gauge of the solder determines the amount of voltage or amps the solder can handle. It also depends on the iron itself. The gauge of my solder is pretty small, so I will have to go get some bigger solder anyways. I hope my iron would be able to handle it but I don't know why not. I will try that link to newegg with the converter first and if it fails, I will solder. It is weird because I did not think newegg would have that kind of stuff so I never checked there. I do know newegg as I purchased things there for building my gaming rig. I know a lot more about computers/tech than RC cars. Anyways, the second link to robinson racing says it is for the traxxas revo, I have a rustler. It also has more than 3 holes which you said it has to be 3 holes? Your referring to part number 7738 on that site right?
    Yes sir that is correct. This unit is the spur gear and slipper clutch. This would be all you need for your 1/8 setup. Even your 1/10 setup if you stay with the mod 1 gearing. It is a beast.

    I don't think the metal to metal spur and pinion will cause enough friction to make a difference demsea. The pic you see is a rustler too....

    Sure wondermelon was talking about extended a arms when he mentioned kit. If you do go with extended a arms you will need longer links since the stockers will not open up to the proper length. I had to replace mine when i put new a arms on. For speed runs longer a arms are a big plus.
    Last edited by lektro; 03-16-2018 at 04:48 PM.
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  27. #27
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    Ok I will try and see with the current set up without the extended a arms and if the speed isn't up to par of what I want, then I will go ahead and get extended a arms with the longer links. Thank you again for all your help.

  28. #28
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    My Pleasure and the extended a arms will give you better stability on speed runs. Might help out with speed but not much, if any.
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