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  1. #1
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    Brushless system what are you running?

    Hey guys I just wanted to here who has what brushless esc and motor mix and match or combo kit.
    My friend had a prerunner with the mamba system 18 amp and is running a 4100kv motor. He had to install the 54 tooth spur and 14 tooth pinion to get the speed and acceleration he wanted. Just slow enough on 2s for it not to flip over at max speed about 40 mph.
    My associated rc18t is using a hobbywing xr10 60amp and the hobbywing 12 turn 7200kv stock gearing and running about 40mph on small tires.
    My new latrax prerunner build is a hobbywing quick run 60 amp esc. It's a bit bigger than I hope for but it will work for now. Motor is getting shipped now it is a hobbywing 18 turn 5200kv motor. I am going to try using the 50 tooth spur and 18 tooth pinion to start and make adjustments from there.
    If you guys are doing brushless please reply and let us know what motor, esc, and gearing your using and what you like or would change to make it work to your preferred liking.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    I am using a Hobbywing Quickrun 30a brushless esc with the Quickrun 4500kv 2435 brushless motor. It works really well, esc never over heats on 2s, the motor does get real hot after a while in the summer though, and will need a motor fan, which isn't a big deal. I have a 54 tooth spur, a 14 tooth pinion, and a 2s lipo. It runs for a long time, which is really good, though sometimes a little annoying cause I may want to charge it before I leave somewhere, and it takes a while to die, but over all, more run time, the better. It goes as fast as a vxl 1/16 slash, which is supposed to go 50+, and the system is really reliable, strong, and easy to program with a program card, when you know exactly how it works. I do recommend this system to anyone, and the motor's diameter is almost the exact same as the stock one, so you can use the stock screws and don't have to drill into the plate, though it is slightly thinner, so you can't use the preset, but once you align it, if you screw the screws real tight, you won't have to ever re-align it On a stock Prerunner, the shocks break real easily, so you will have to upgrade to the GTR shocks, I have taken a lot of HUGE hits and I've never bent a shaft or anything with them, so I highly recommend them to anyone, and the axles will have to be replaced with aluminum or steel ones. I recommend steel ones cause I snapped four aluminum ones in bad crashes and a bad set of differentials, of which the outdrives were hitting the axle and caused bits to chip off until there was nothing left to chip off cause the thing snapped. I replaced the bad diffs, and I now use the traxxas metal ones, and I use steel axles, though I did snap a steel axle the other day, cause a Traxxas Ford GT crashed into it going somewhere around 40mph. The car is a lot of fun, and at the setup I have, it's a perfect speed. It goes real fast, is controllable at full speed, and is really durable, especially since it was designed for only 25mph.
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  3. #3
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    Sweet. I really like hobbywing products. I can't wait till my motor comes in. Might need to get the 54 tooth spur for my 5200kv on 2s

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    Can you post a link to the brushless system you ordered?
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  5. #5
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    Iím reading through this thread and need a little more help converting over to brushless...

    so far this is what I have in my shopping cart:
    1. Hobbywing QuicRun 2435SL 1/18 2030 Brushless Motor (4500kV)
    2. QUICRUN 16BL30 ESC (2S-3S)

    Ok, what else do I need???

    3. Hobbywing LED Program card?
    4. 2s battery?
    5. Battery charger, preferably something that would be compatible with Xmaxx 8s power?
    6. Spur and Pinion gears?



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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    You can use any of Traxxas chargers, as long as it's meant for lipo, with Traxxas batteries.
    Yes, you do need a program card, makes it a whole lot easier.
    2s is the way to go, with that system, 3s made my car go way to fast. We couldn't get it to full speed, and when we got it a bit over half, it did a big wheely, driveshaft snapped, and the car went out of control into the grass.
    You can use the stock spur and pinion, but you will have to set the motor yourself in the car. https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Can-t-Find-One The motor shaft is slightely to big, so you'll have to drill it bigger. All of Traxxas lipos as far as I know are compatible with Traxxas EzPeak Plus chargers.
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  7. #7
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    Well I made the leap!!! I went a little overboard on Eb@y, but mind you Iím new to the hobby. So most of the items on my list are to tool out my R/C box.

    1. Hobbywing QuicRun 2435 4500kv
    2. Hobbywing QuicRun 16BL30 ESC
    3. SMC 7.4V 2500mAh 40C
    4. 5 pairs, XT60 connectors
    5. Hitec X2 AC Pro
    6. Mr. Jig XT60 soldering Jig
    7. Nippon America, Rosin Cored Solder Wire 60% Rosin 40% Lead Diameter: .8 mm
    8. Kester 186 Rosin Soldering Flux
    9. Fireproof RC Lipo Battery Bag
    10. 3M heat shrink
    11. Wagner compact heat gun

    From my few hours of research on forums and Eb@y I feel I have some good parts coming my way, thank you PecosBill for getting me started!


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  8. #8
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    I am very glad I could assist you with getting started in such a fun hobby! Have a lot of fun in your rc adventure!
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lytchro24 View Post
    Well I made the leap!!! I went a little overboard on Eb@y, but mind you I’m new to the hobby. So most of the items on my list are to tool out my R/C box.

    1. Hobbywing QuicRun 2435 4500kv
    2. Hobbywing QuicRun 16BL30 ESC
    3. SMC 7.4V 2500mAh 40C
    4. 5 pairs, XT60 connectors
    5. Hitec X2 AC Pro
    6. Mr. Jig XT60 soldering Jig
    7. Nippon America, Rosin Cored Solder Wire 60% Rosin 40% Lead Diameter: .8 mm
    8. Kester 186 Rosin Soldering Flux
    9. Fireproof RC Lipo Battery Bag
    10. 3M heat shrink
    11. Wagner compact heat gun

    From my few hours of research on forums and Eb@y I feel I have some good parts coming my way, thank you PecosBill for getting me started!


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    Post a video when you are done. I am interested in this system too.

  10. #10
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    Ok fellas, all of the parts to upgrade to brushless and Lipo are on the work bench. By test fitting the Lipo I found its going to be a tight squeeze!!! The two concerns I have are the driveline rubbing against the battery and the cables coming out of the battery rubbing against the outer lip of the chassis. I think my best bet is to cut small section out of the chassis to give room for cables. Then possibly using the piece I cut out of the chassis as a guard between the driveline and the battery... I have some small screws from a bad servo to secure the driveline guard but also maybe some glue???

    Will keep updated and pictures to come


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  11. #11
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    Brushless system what are you running?



    I like how the Lipo fits best with the label down and cables coming out towards the rear of the truck.


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    Last edited by Lytchro24; 07-09-2018 at 12:33 PM.

  12. #12
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    Sounds like you're well on your way to having a nice setup!

    I have the exact same ESC and Motor. I upgraded my SST and Teton with it and I'm very happy.

    So far I'm just running the stock 1200 mAh batteries and I don't see any real performance advantage. I'm also using stock gearing.

    Actually just ran perfectly side by side with a stock ECX Roost during lunch time. I think the biggest thing I've noticed is a little longer run time. I have 3 NIMH batteries, so I've resisted upgrading until the NIMH's are dead. Anyone see a boost in performance just by going brushless and not upgrading the batteries? I actually expected a slight increase in speed, but so far pretty much the same.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaterfordMan View Post
    Sounds like you're well on your way to having a nice setup!

    I have the exact same ESC and Motor. I upgraded my SST and Teton with it and I'm very happy.

    So far I'm just running the stock 1200 mAh batteries and I don't see any real performance advantage. I'm also using stock gearing.

    Actually just ran perfectly side by side with a stock ECX Roost during lunch time. I think the biggest thing I've noticed is a little longer run time. I have 3 NIMH batteries, so I've resisted upgrading until the NIMH's are dead. Anyone see a boost in performance just by going brushless and not upgrading the batteries? I actually expected a slight increase in speed, but so far pretty much the same.
    Get a 14t pinion a rally spur and go lipo. I don't run brushed or nimh batteries much happier with lipo and brushless.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    Get a 14t pinion a rally spur and go lipo. I don't run brushed or nimh batteries much happier with lipo and brushless.
    Looks like Iíll be replacing a pinion gear at a minimum... broke off a drill bit inside the gear while trying to drill it out bigger, also noticed several hairline cracks in between the teeth.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lytchro24 View Post
    Looks like I’ll be replacing a pinion gear at a minimum... broke off a drill bit inside the gear while trying to drill it out bigger, also noticed several hairline cracks in between the teeth.
    There is a 15t 2.3mm bore 48p pinion that Traxxas has that might work with your Hobbywing TRA7039 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-TRA...kAAOSwQ0RbHswm

    I use Tap Magic it works really well when drilling out pinions but really anytime drilling into metal. Heres a link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tap-Magic-C...cAAOSwopRYiTF~ I have a bigger bottle than the one linked its just for reference.

  16. #16
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    Brushless system what are you running?

    Ya, my first attempt was a success I went nice and slow and used lots of WD-40. The hole I drilled was a hair to small. My next attempt at a size bigger is were my patience grew thin... SNAP!!! Oh well, back to the web looking for a pinion gear. The Traxxas #7039 is what I found as well, but how does the 48 pitch mesh up with stock spur gear?


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    Last edited by Lytchro24; 07-09-2018 at 10:32 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lytchro24 View Post
    Ya, my first attempt was a success I went nice and slow and used lots of WD-40. The hole I drilled was a hair to small. My next attempt at a size bigger is were my patience grew thin... SNAP!!! Oh well, back to the web looking for a pinion gear. The Traxxas #7039 is what I found as well, but how does the 48 pitch mesh up with stock spur gear?
    Never tried that pinion I use brushless motors with 2mm shafts so no problem with finding pinions. The pinion is just a suggestion with a new stock spur it should work fine. I have used 48p with .5 mod spurs they have worked fine. 2.3mm shaft pinions are hard to find. If you drill the hole straight enough drilling a pinion is ok but if your off even a little bit you will mess up spurs. A 10t pinion is so small not much room for error. Once you use Tap Magic once drilling into metal you will see why I suggest using it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    There is a 15t 2.3mm bore 48p pinion that Traxxas has that might work with your Hobbywing TRA7039 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-TRA...kAAOSwQ0RbHswm

    I use Tap Magic it works really well when drilling out pinions but really anytime drilling into metal. Heres a link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tap-Magic-C...cAAOSwopRYiTF~ I have a bigger bottle than the one linked its just for reference.
    I might have to pick one of these 15T's up. See how well it works on the brushless/NIMH setup.

  19. #19
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    https://youtu.be/spNKw5QTEgc


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  20. #20
    RC Qualifier PecosBill's Avatar
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    Nice I'm glad it's running well!
    Doesn't need to be fancy. Just needs to run.

  21. #21
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    Hello everyone, been a while since i played with my SST but just blew the dust off it earlier this week.

    Little history on my truck, bought the truck in june 2016 and the upgrade list i did right after getting it.
    motor was upgraded to a Castle Creations Mamba Micro X 8200Kv motor with speed controler
    Battery is a Venom 20C 3S 1300mAh 11.1 LiPO
    front and rear diffs are Traxxas 7581 aluminum solid spool axle with a metal ring gear JB welded to it.
    Drive axles are Traxxas 7605R aluminum, keep bending or spinning off the ends near the diff, motor has been de-tuned with Castle Creations software still breaking them.
    Knuckles replaced with Hot Racing aluminum parts.
    Hot Racing Aluminum steering bellcrank
    Hot racing Aluminum Front and rear shock tower
    GPM Steel tie rods
    Integy composite Chassis upper plate
    Traxxas Front & rear shock tower brace
    RC Corona Metal Gear servo
    Aluminum Hex adapters
    swapped out for teton wheels
    Acer racing bearing kit
    Yeah Racing 1/10 scale 60mm shocks

    I think the only thing stock on it is the plastic body pan and control arms

    Upgrades i have on order right now
    Traxxas 7579X gear set to replace the solid spools i made, will see how long these will last.
    Hot Racing SLTN28806 steel driveshafts hoping i wont break these.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igottabeme View Post
    Get a 14t pinion a rally spur and go lipo. I don't run brushed or nimh batteries much happier with lipo and brushless.
    I upgraded to the rally gearing (still sticking with NIMH's), but overall holycrap is this little bugger quick now! Actually a little easier to handle at first because the tires aren't spinning as easily. Still need to work on handling and cornering though. Just not getting what I want from the stock setup.

  23. #23
    These are the mods that I had on my SST when I used to own it:
    Hot Racing steel CVD driveshafts
    Castle creations mamba micro X
    Venom 3s 11.1 Lipo
    Dromida MT4.18 body
    Everbuilt wheel screws
    Losi mini 8ight DB wheels and tires
    Savox steering servo
    Dromida body clips
    Custom hex hub extenders (needed for the huge wheels cuz they rub on the chassis)
    Deans connectors
    Team associated 20w shock oil
    Maybe more!

    By the way, I don't recommend the 3s lipo, it will shred your diffs into pieces. Mine did a standing backflip on 3s, wayyyyy to much power.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

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