Results 1 to 29 of 29
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98

    Smile 1/8 Shock Option Kyosho MP9E for Stampede 4x4

    Hey guys,

    I bought 4 front shocks for a Kyosho MP9E TKI RS on dollar hobbies for $45 about a week ago. The shocks are a little larger bore than GTR's and they feel high quality. I'm starting this thread to share my experiences with the MP9e shocks and to open discussion for these and any other shock options for the stampede. I'll post some pics shortly...

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Attempting to post a pic of the completed shock installation...

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3

    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-02-2018 at 09:34 AM.

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    here's the actual parts I bought for the shock build:

    [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Comparisons to GTR rear shocks:

    Bore comparison:

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3

    Length comparison:

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    The installation was pretty easy. I did use a dremel to cut off the plastic standoffs on the front and rear shock towers so I could use the metal standoffs that go with the shocks. I also drilled out 3mm nuts with a 1/8" drill bit to use as spacers for each of the shocks where they attach to the a-arms. The shocks were too long in the front, so I put 1/2" pieces of fuel tubing on the shock shaft inside the shock bodies to shorten them.

    3mm nut spacer:

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3

    Shocks front view:

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...lOems1OUV4UVN3
    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-02-2018 at 09:54 AM.

  6. #6
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Is that the length compared to a rear shock? Aren't they too long for the front? Does your chassis bottom out before the shocks do?

    Looks nice. Let us know how it handles.

    I ended up using a combination of old UE supermaxx shocks on the rear and UE supermaxx bodies on the front with OFNA shock shafts. It was just stuff I had on hand from my t-maxx days. Not much larger diameter than stock shocks, but at least it's a 3.5mm shaft vs 3mm. Still need to fiddle with the oil weights a bit.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    I used 50wt oil in the front and 70wt in the rear to help with big jumps. The stock springs seem pretty well matched for the 50wt in the front. Firmer springs would help with rebound in the rear. I'll update after I have a chance to really test them out.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    [QUOTE=olds97_lss;6443505]Is that the length compared to a rear shock? Aren't they too long for the front? Does your chassis bottom out before the shocks do?
    Looks nice. Let us know how it handles.]


    Thanks! The length is compared to a rear GTR shock, and they are almost exactly the same. They are too long for the front. To make them the right size, I put pieces of fuel tubing (about 1/2") on the shock shafts INSIDE the shock body, which shortens the overall length of the shock. The chassis will bottom out (front and rear) before the shocks do. For all 4 shocks, the tops are mounted in the middle holes and the bottoms are in the outer-most holes.
    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-02-2018 at 10:22 AM.

  9. #9
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Is that the length compared to a rear shock? Aren't they too long for the front? Does your chassis bottom out before the shocks do?

    Looks nice. Let us know how it handles.
    Thanks! The length is compared to a rear GTR shock, and they are almost exactly the same. They are too long for the front. To make them the right size, I put pieces of fuel tubing (about 1/2") on the shock shafts INSIDE the shock body, which shortens the overall length of the shock. The chassis will bottom out (front and rear) before the shocks do. For all 4 shocks, the tops are mounted in the middle holes and the bottoms are in the outer-most holes.
    Ah, didn't think of putting limiters in them. Nice!
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 04-02-2018 at 10:26 AM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98

  11. #11
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    I'll have to keep an eye on dollar hobbies. Appears they have only 1 set left currently. $23 a set is a lot cheaper than trying to find D8 67296's at $55-$75 a pair.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,329
    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    I bought 4 front shocks for a Kyosho MP9E TKI RS.....
    Long reply here but just offering my wisdom and trying to understand your thinking as well.
    1. What is the actual shaft length on the shocks?
    2.Can you get them with a 51mm rod like the D8's have? Heads up on using tubing in side the shock. Ive tried that and rubber orings inside speed runner shocks. They will rip/tear. You need plastic shock limiters to do it properly.
    3. Why are you putting limiters inside the shock? That limits the arms movement down. If jumping you want fullest movement down so when truck hit the ground your starting with arms in lowest position for as much dampening up-swing as possible. If you want to limit up-swing so chassis doesnt hit the ground put limiters on outside of shaft stopping it from compressing all the way and allowing truck to bottom out. Id use some kind of soft limiter like plastic spacers with rubber oring in between them. That way when rod movement inward stops its a soft stopping not a rigid or hard stop. I will caution you using rods to stop rc from bottoming its hard on them and may result in bent rods or broken rod ends.
    This is why purchasing the correct length and turning/setting up shocks is important. The correct length, oil weight and spring compression rate allows the shock to properly absorb impacts without damage to components.
    4. Whats wrong with skid plates contacting the ground? Thats what skid plates are for. Id rather replace the cheap little skid plates than bend a rod, break a standoff or snap a rod end and be down until I can fix it. Skid plate can be replaced once a lot of wear is showing and doesnt cause you to be down until fixxed
    Food for thought ya. Ive tried lots of cheap, mid priced, expensive parts as well as making, modifying or trying some unconventional ideas to achieve certain handling preferences, (Like putting tubing under chassis to absorb impacts... terrible idea btw, lmbo!)....
    5. Why are you trying to put shocks in same mount positions? If to long in front did you try inner most hole on top and outer most on bottom. This may eliminate the need for limiters all together. Thats how the D8's are mounted in front and work perfectly like that.
    A for effort though. Its good to think outside the box and supply options. Id like some in case Im in need of another set of 1/8 scale shocks since rtr D8's seem to be hard to come by now. Im not tryn to be a downer either. Im just try to save you time and $ on things Ive tried that didnt work or worked but not to full potential of what a big bore is made for and should do. I get easy 7-9' air on a curved 17" tall ramp. Ive seen higher (12-15') but their ramp was 4-5' high lmbo. I think my heights are good considering the height of the ramp.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 04-03-2018 at 06:14 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  13. #13
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Long reply here but just offering my wisdom and trying to understand your thinking as well.
    1. What is the actual shaft length on the shocks?
    2.Can you get them with a 51mm rod like the D8's have? Heads up on using tubing in side the shock. Ive tried that and rubber orings inside speed runner shocks. They will rip/tear. You need plastic shock limiters to do it properly.
    3. Why are you putting limiters inside the shock? That limits the arms movement down. If jumping you want fullest movement down so when truck hit the ground your starting with arms in lowest position for as much dampening up-swing as possible. If you want to limit up-swing so chassis doesnt hit the ground put limiters on outside of shaft stopping it from compressing all the way and allowing truck to bottom out. Id use some kind of soft limiter like plastic spacers with rubber oring in between them. That way when rod movement inward stops its a soft stopping not a rigid or hard stop. I will caution you using rods to stop rc from bottoming its hard on them and may result in bent rods or broken rod ends.
    This is why purchasing the correct length and turning/setting up shocks is important. The correct length, oil weight and spring compression rate allows the shock to properly absorb impacts without damage to components.
    4. Whats wrong with skid plates contacting the ground? Thats what skid plates are for. Id rather replace the cheap little skid plates than bend a rod, break a standoff or snap a rod end and be down until I can fix it. Skid plate can be replaced once a lot of wear is showing and doesnt cause you to be down until fixxed
    Food for thought ya. Ive tried lots of cheap, mid priced, expensive parts as well as making, modifying or trying some unconventional ideas to achieve certain handling preferences, (Like putting tubing under chassis to absorb impacts... terrible idea btw, lmbo!)....
    5. Why are you trying to put shocks in same mount positions? If to long in front did you try inner most hole on top and outer most on bottom. This may eliminate the need for limiters all together. Thats how the D8's are mounted in front and work perfectly like that.
    You are a wordy devil aren't you! I tend to be the same when I see someone taking a path similar to one I fully vetted. I appreciate all the info.

    I'm interested in these due to the D8's either being pretty pricey or not available. Spending $100+ on a set of shocks is just too much for my taste.

    For me, if shorter shafts aren't available that fit properly, I'd use limiters on the front so the shock only extended as far as the arm/truck would allow. Didn't think using silicone o-rings inside the shock would be an issue for that, but if you tried it and the o-rings break down, then I'd think of something else.

    Also, for the skids touching the ground, that's what I would want. I don't want the shocks bottoming out before the chassis does or you end up snapping rod ends/shock shafts.

    Once those two things are sorted, then it's just a matter of figuring out the right oil/spring combo to support the truck properly to find a happy medium between plushness for driving/smaller bumps/jumps and absorbing the big air better than stock.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Long reply here but just offering my wisdom and trying to understand your thinking as well.
    1. What is the actual shaft length on the shocks?
    2.Can you get them with a 51mm rod like the D8's have? Heads up on using tubing in side the shock. Ive tried that and rubber orings inside speed runner shocks. They will rip/tear. You need plastic shock limiters to do it properly.
    3. Why are you putting limiters inside the shock? That limits the arms movement down. If jumping you want fullest movement down so when truck hit the ground your starting with arms in lowest position for as much dampening up-swing as possible. If you want to limit up-swing so chassis doesnt hit the ground put limiters on outside of shaft stopping it from compressing all the way and allowing truck to bottom out. Id use some kind of soft limiter like plastic spacers with rubber oring in between them. That way when rod movement inward stops its a soft stopping not a rigid or hard stop. I will caution you using rods to stop rc from bottoming its hard on them and may result in bent rods or broken rod ends.
    This is why purchasing the correct length and turning/setting up shocks is important. The correct length, oil weight and spring compression rate allows the shock to properly absorb impacts without damage to components.
    4. Whats wrong with skid plates contacting the ground? Thats what skid plates are for. Id rather replace the cheap little skid plates than bend a rod, break a standoff or snap a rod end and be down until I can fix it. Skid plate can be replaced once a lot of wear is showing and doesnt cause you to be down until fixxed
    Food for thought ya. Ive tried lots of cheap, mid priced, expensive parts as well as making, modifying or trying some unconventional ideas to achieve certain handling preferences, (Like putting tubing under chassis to absorb impacts... terrible idea btw, lmbo!)....
    5. Why are you trying to put shocks in same mount positions? If to long in front did you try inner most hole on top and outer most on bottom. This may eliminate the need for limiters all together. Thats how the D8's are mounted in front and work perfectly like that.
    A for effort though. Its good to think outside the box and supply options. Id like some in case Im in need of another set of 1/8 scale shocks since rtr D8's seem to be hard to come by now. Im not tryn to be a downer either. Im just try to save you time and $ on things Ive tried that didnt work or worked but not to full potential of what a big bore is made for and should do. I get easy 7-9' air on a curved 17" tall ramp. Ive seen higher (12-15') but their ramp was 4-5' high lmbo. I think my heights are good considering the height of the ramp.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Briber,
    First, thank you for sharing your experiences and giving such a detailed response! I really appreciate it! I'll follow your numbering in response to hopefully keep the conversation clear.
    1. The shock shafts are 53mm in length and 3.5mm thick. I think olds97 found some shorter shafts by associated that look like they would fit the front here's the link: https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...s_3_5x42_5_mm/
    2. For the shock limiters in the front, do you recommend 1/4" polyethylene?
    3. The limiters are because I want to keep the COG a little lower. I realize I'm giving up some suspension travel, but the truck handles surprisingly good when it's lowered a bit, even with skinny 1/8 buggy tires on it. If I had the proline extended a-arm kit, I would raise it up.
    4. I agree with you. Having the skid plates bottom out before the shocks is a good thing.
    5. It just worked out this way to get the truck level after I put the limiters in the fronts.
    I should have a chance to get out and beat on them this Friday!
    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-03-2018 at 01:04 PM.

  15. #15
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    1. The shock shafts are 53mm in length and 3.5mm thick. I think olds97 found some shorter shafts by associated that look like they would fit the front here's the link: https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...s_3_5x42_5_mm/

    I should have a chance to get out and beat on them this Friday!
    Forgot about those. Will be good to here how they do. Even better to see a video.

    I took video of mine last weekend after altering the 1/8th buggy shocks I put on, but the files got corrupted... so all I got was bashing my revo, which has rc raven springs that I recently put on it.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,329
    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    Briber,
    First, thank you for sharing your experiences and giving such a detailed response! I really appreciate it! I'll follow your numbering in response to hopefully keep the conversation clear.
    1. The shock shafts are 53mm in length and 3.5mm thick. I think olds97 found some shorter shafts by associated that look like they would fit the front here's the link: https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...s_3_5x42_5_mm/
    2. For the shock limiters in the front, do you recommend 1/4" polyethylene?
    3. The limiters are because I want to keep the COG a little lower. I realize I'm giving up some suspension travel, but the truck handles surprisingly good when it's lowered a bit, even with skinny 1/8 buggy tires on it. If I had the proline extended a-arm kit, I would raise it up.
    4. I agree with you. Having the skid plates bottom out before the shocks is a good thing.
    5. It just worked out this way to get the truck level after I put the limiters in the fronts.
    I should have a chance to get out and beat on them this Friday!
    53mm shouldnt be an issue as thats only 2mm longer than D8s. To lower it did you try mounting shock as I described? If that doesnt work then next option would be a limiter. Ill get part # if I can find it(think it was proline shock limiter kit), that I used on sr. I used to use old pistons that I wasnt going to use from ultra shocks and drilled out center hole to fit shaft at first, but couldnt fine tune the shock. The kits come with different sizes thats why I switched over. Yw and ty for explaining things better for me I see where your coming from now.
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    You are a wordy devil aren't you! I tend to be the same when I see someone taking a path similar to one I fully vetted. I appreciate all the info. For me, if shorter shafts aren't available that fit properly, I'd use limiters on the front so the shock only extended as far as the arm/truck would allow. Didn't think using silicone o-rings inside the shock would be an issue for that, but if you tried it and the o-rings break down, then I'd think of something else.
    Yeah I over analyze things at times, thats what wife tells me anyway, I see it as being thorough . Again for same reasons as limiting compression causes undo stress to shock same is true for extending shock rod with arm swinging down during jumping. Its not an issue for speed runner because increases in down pressure is gradual as it ramps up in speed. There is not a slamming effect like jumping & landing. If jumping a lot allowing shock rod end from stopping down swing, I can see pulling shock rod off rod or breaking rod eyelet. This is on a lot of limitation. If limiting it at same point of natural stopping point so working together, I think thats acceptable. Inside the shock a piece of tubing maybe made outta different types of material so oil may actually break it down. Silicone o ring would be safe from that but the piston and/or c clip constantly slamming against it may lead to damage which leads to ripping from continued smashing. Idk Im just guessing here as to why that happened on mine. The outer limiters made for limiting inward or compression are cone shaped and pretty wide designed to withstand abuse whereas an oring inside or outside, is very thin for stresses it exposed to.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 04-04-2018 at 08:23 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  17. #17
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Again for same reasons as limiting compression causes undo stress to shock same is true for extending shock rod with arm swinging down during jumping. Its not an issue for speed runner because increases in down pressure is gradual as it ramps up in speed. There is not a slamming effect like jumping & landing. If jumping a lot allowing shock rod end from stopping down swing, I can see pulling shock rod off rod or breaking rod eyelet. This is on a lot of limitation. If limiting it at same point of natural stopping point so working together, I think thats acceptable. Inside the shock a piece of tubing maybe made outta different types of material so oil may actually break it down. Silicone o ring would be safe from that but the piston and/or c clip constantly slamming against it may lead to damage which leads to ripping from continued smashing. Idk Im just guessing here as to why that happened on mine. The outer limiters made for limiting inward or compression are cone shaped and pretty wide designed to withstand abuse whereas an oring inside or outside, is very thin for stresses it exposed to.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    I think HPI used to use a thicker silicone tube in there on one of the savage's. May have been rubber... I know they had one on the outside, but pretty sure they had one on the inside too. I'll have to check the part manual/explosions and see if you can even get them with HPI in limbo the past couple years.

    Worst case, perhaps using the traxxas bump stops they use on the outside on revo shocks would work on the inside. Might be too tall and too fat. Need something that doesn't cover the holes in the piston.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,329
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I think HPI used to use a thicker silicone tube in there on one of the savage's. May have been rubber... I know they had one on the outside, but pretty sure they had one on the inside too. I'll have to check the part manual/explosions and see if you can even get them with HPI in limbo the past couple years.

    Worst case, perhaps using the traxxas bump stops they use on the outside on revo shocks would work on the inside. Might be too tall and too fat. Need something that doesn't cover the holes in the piston.
    Or try the variable dampening kit. It has a plate that goes over piston to cover two holes. One one stroke it only allows fluid to use 2 hole and on opposite stroke flexes to allow fluid to use all 4 holes for better compression or rebound depending on orientation. May give the needed extra dampening on landings. They are used for Trx gtrs but maybe useable on other shocks depending on piston size. If not then maybe grab a set of Traxxas gtrs. Ive seen super cheap sets in the past before. Ill try n find part number and specs on the dampening kit. I had one but sold it before I ever got to test them.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Van. Island British Columbia
    Posts
    834
    If your just looking for shorter shafts Hot Racing has some length 49mm and diameter is 3.5 p/n RTDS90X it's an option.

  20. #20
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    If your just looking for shorter shafts Hot Racing has some length 49mm and diameter is 3.5 p/n RTDS90X it's an option.
    i like the price for those. The associated ones linked above aren't showing up, here's another possible option in 39.5mm length: https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...s_3_5x39_5_mm/
    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-05-2018 at 10:39 AM.

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Or try the variable dampening kit. It has a plate that goes over piston to cover two holes. One one stroke it only allows fluid to use 2 hole and on opposite stroke flexes to allow fluid to use all 4 holes for better compression or rebound depending on orientation. May give the needed extra dampening on landings. They are used for Trx gtrs but maybe useable on other shocks depending on piston size. If not then maybe grab a set of Traxxas gtrs. Ive seen super cheap sets in the past before. Ill try n find part number and specs on the dampening kit. I had one but sold it before I ever got to test them.

    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    The variable damping kit sounds awesome. I will definitely get it for my GTRs. Doesn't look like they would fit the kyosho shocks, since the kyoshos have bigger bores. Is this what you are talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5461-.../dp/B0015YVSN8
    Last edited by korelinlakes; 04-05-2018 at 10:58 AM.

  22. #22
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    These might also work for the front shafts, anyone know how long they are? Traxxas 7464T

  23. #23
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Quote Originally Posted by korelinlakes View Post
    The variable damping kit sounds awesome. I will definitely get it for my GTRs. Doesn't look like they would fit the kyosho shocks, since the kyoshos have bigger bores. Is this what you are talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5461-.../dp/B0015YVSN8
    I have that kit in all my revo's. They are for revo sized shocks. I didn't think the GTR's for the stampede/slash were that big around. If they are, and they run 3.5mm shafts... then I may just buy those and call it a day.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Had a chance to test out the shocks today with some big air!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBAlPvHDgQw&t=180s

    I had some good crashes and hard landings, the front body mount busted through the reinforced body, lost the battery strap and the esc broke loose. Amazing that's all the damage done to it. I love the Stampede. It is so tough. The Kyosho shocks held up fine but they weren't as big of an improvement over the ultras as I had hoped for.

  25. #25
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    Seemed to soak up the landings pretty good... when you landed on the tires. lol
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  26. #26
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,350
    You know, I just ran across a photo of the ultra vs big bore vs gtr's in a thread:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?9044355



    I have to say... I'd probably just go that route to stick with traxxas stuff. I mean, it looks like the ends/caps/cups are all the same as the revo shocks, which I have bags of parts for. Plus, can use the VDK with them which opens more possibilities.

    All the threads and talk about "running gtr's", I was kind of under the impression that they were literally talking about the revo shocks and modifying them to work, not that there were a set of GTR's you can actually get that fit properly. I think I did know that eventually/recently, but it didn't occur to me to look up a photo of them so I could really see the size comparison.

    Knowing the punishment they can take on a revo, I'm very inclined to just go that route. Will have to investigate springs as I don't think I have much other than revo springs around that would work. So, will have to figure out what others have tried and see if I can find a spring/oil combo that works for me.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  27. #27
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    You know, I just ran across a photo of the ultra vs big bore vs gtr's in a thread:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?9044355



    I have to say... I'd probably just go that route to stick with traxxas stuff. I mean, it looks like the ends/caps/cups are all the same as the revo shocks, which I have bags of parts for. Plus, can use the VDK with them which opens more possibilities.

    All the threads and talk about "running gtr's", I was kind of under the impression that they were literally talking about the revo shocks and modifying them to work, not that there were a set of GTR's you can actually get that fit properly. I think I did know that eventually/recently, but it didn't occur to me to look up a photo of them so I could really see the size comparison.


    Knowing the punishment they can take on a revo, I'm very inclined to just go that route. Will have to investigate springs as I don't think I have much other than revo springs around that would work. So, will have to figure out what others have tried and see if I can find a spring/oil combo that works for me.
    For GTR's, Losi SCTE or VG racing springs are popular. If you get them, post up a vid! I'm curious how well they handle big jumps.

  28. #28
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hampton Roads
    Posts
    98
    Quote: [Seemed to soak up the landings pretty good... when you landed on the tires. lol]

    Yeah, I think with some tuning I will be happy with them. To firm up the rear end I ordered these: Kyosho 70mm Big Bore Front Shock Spring (Blue) (2)

    Hey, I landed on the wheels most of the time! Except that one off the skate park ramp...that was bad. I think I need the 2650kv castle motor and 4s, so I have more control in the air!

  29. #29
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    2
    This is the thread I’ve been looking for! I have a 4x4 slash which I just turned into a monster slash. I believe the stock shocks are the same in the stampede and slash. So this shock upgrade should work on my slash. I may try ou the shorter shafts as you guys have suggested. I got these integy piggy back shocks and they just don’t cut it with the added weight of a 1/8 esc motor combo and 2.8 proline trenchers.
    I had a look at the Kyosho website and found they have 3 shock lengths for the MP9e. They have a 47mm (small), 50mm (small medium), and a 55mm (medium). Not sure what these number are referring to like shock body length or shaft length. Which one did you buy? Dollarhobbyz doesn’t specify. Just says “front shocks”.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •