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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Is There Such A Thing As A Bullet Proof Tranny?

    Calling on all the knowledgeable transmission people. I did a scratch build back in late '14, class 1 buggy that weighs about 10 lbs. Car has been run 2s all its life, eventually killing the batteries because of the 5700 kv motor pushing it. Temps were good, only lacking current, puffing the batteries after a lot of charges. I write that off as race fuel. Tried 3s in the car, same gearing. Oh my gosh is it quick, much more fun to drive with a long run time. Eats 48p gears for lunch, brutal like a turbo charged and nitrous motor. Motor temps now get too hot, so I geared it way down. Now it grenaded the tranny, something is now toothless. Surgery on Thurs. So, here is the quandary: is there a Slash tranny program the can take the horsepower? Spool is fine if that is the route to go, I intended to do that anyhow. Hate to have to gear it way down with a 3500ish kv motor so it can survive. The car has an RPM case, basic Traxxas metal innards otherwise. She has taken abuse for nearly 4 yrs as is. Does the car now become a static model, being that it needs to stay in appearance as is? A museum piece if you will, or is there something out there that fits my needs?

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    Probabaly the idler gear and the rest of the tranny is fine. 32 pitch spurs work well too.
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  3. #3
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Just out of curiosity, how much longer than 4yrs would you like to get? Sounds like you got pretty solid performance for a decent amount of time out of your set up. I don't know how often you ran her, I do know everything wears out eventually.
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Its been serviced, diff re-packed a few times. 2s power wasn't as brutal, I don't want to be rebuilding the tranny every other trip. I'm looking to run 3s batteries for run time, and have a Castle 2400 Mamba Max power plant I can put in it to ease the strain of the pipey 5700. The car was built to be beaten, and it has. Tranny is the new weal link (3s) so now I'm looking to solve that problem. As I think about it, I bet I lost a bearing again. Thurs eve she gets opened up. Just looking for options in order to keep the Slash trans format.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    Calling on all the knowledgeable transmission people. I did a scratch build back in late '14, class 1 buggy that weighs about 10 lbs. Car has been run 2s all its life, eventually killing the batteries because of the 5700 kv motor pushing it. Temps were good, only lacking current, puffing the batteries after a lot of charges. I write that off as race fuel. Tried 3s in the car, same gearing. Oh my gosh is it quick, much more fun to drive with a long run time. Eats 48p gears for lunch, brutal like a turbo charged and nitrous motor. Motor temps now get too hot, so I geared it way down. Now it grenaded the tranny, something is now toothless. Surgery on Thurs. So, here is the quandary: is there a Slash tranny program the can take the horsepower? Spool is fine if that is the route to go, I intended to do that anyhow. Hate to have to gear it way down with a 3500ish kv motor so it can survive. The car has an RPM case, basic Traxxas metal innards otherwise. She has taken abuse for nearly 4 yrs as is. Does the car now become a static model, being that it needs to stay in appearance as is? A museum piece if you will, or is there something out there that fits my needs?
    Wifes slash on 2s mostly, 3s quite a few times. I ve ran like this for over a year prob weekly 1 or 2 times. Haven't done any maintenance to it:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthread.php?p=6443972
    I need just one more rc, then Im done,
    Last edited by Briber; 04-17-2018 at 11:42 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  6. #6
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I think the pin in the topshaft is the weak link. I find the STRC topshaft to be more durable, it also gets rid of one of the pins and allows for Associated slippers which are used in their 3S capable trucks (i.e. ProSC10).
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  7. #7
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    I might be crucified for this but, I run a proline HD transmission in my Slash 2wd with a castle MMP 2400kv system. I've had to rebuild it once in two years running 3s and the occasional 4s geared 78/26. The only issue I have with it is the outputs, it has a wierd offset where one side needs a longer axle than the other (with sliders it's not an issue but dog bones are problematic).
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    I'll run my 2400 when it gets back together, low end and mid range power will be easier to drive. My concern for my trans build is having heavy duty internals, if there is such a thing out there. I intend to abuse it as it has been abused it's entire life. Maybe I should be content with an occasional rebuild. I just am afraid of it breaking now, causing a DNF in my driving fun. Again, she weighs 10 lbs. Got some off the record desert style meet ups coming soon so it needs to be fairly stout.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I think we should work collectively to figure out which components we need to do a mod-1 traxxas 2wd tranny. That would include a mod-1 top drive gear/idler/mod-1 diff. I've seen two vids that show it can be done...but people have been very secretive about it. I've been poking around exploring the option. What do you guys think?
    MTFBWY

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I'm going to talk with a local machine/gear shop this weekend and see what it might cost and details etc. I'll let you know what I find out. I'm not going to hide the secret btw. That kind of business (keeping something secret from others,) sort of "chaps my hide." TTYL

    Does anyone have any ideas that I should be asking them about? I was planning on bringing in a spare top drive/idler/diff for some dimensions and having mod-1 sized gears made. Any ideas for me before I go?
    MTFBWY

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Long 6mm outputs off a spooled diff for my E Revo axles!!!

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FnFancy View Post
    I might be crucified for this but, I run a proline HD transmission in my Slash 2wd with a castle MMP 2400kv system. I've had to rebuild it once in two years running 3s and the occasional 4s geared 78/26. The only issue I have with it is the outputs, it has a wierd offset where one side needs a longer axle than the other (with sliders it's not an issue but dog bones are problematic).
    LOL, No crucifixion here, I was never a fan of the PL trans but after some mods they will take a lot of punishing, more then I ever expected, that darn offset stinks tho.
    I have three of them, two run stock plastic diffs with aluminum idler gears (Machined aluminum idlers are a must) and have been solid with a 2400kv on 3s.
    The third has the HR diff and hardened idler but its yet to be installed since I moved south and away from the racing circuit.
    With any luck we'll sell the house in southern Mi and move back north within the year.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    Calling on all the knowledgeable transmission people. I did a scratch build back in late '14, class 1 buggy that weighs about 10 lbs. Car has been run 2s all its life, eventually killing the batteries because of the 5700 kv motor pushing it. Temps were good, only lacking current, puffing the batteries after a lot of charges. I write that off as race fuel. Tried 3s in the car, same gearing. Oh my gosh is it quick, much more fun to drive with a long run time. Eats 48p gears for lunch, brutal like a turbo charged and nitrous motor. Motor temps now get too hot, so I geared it way down. Now it grenaded the tranny, something is now toothless. Surgery on Thurs. So, here is the quandary: is there a Slash tranny program the can take the horsepower? Spool is fine if that is the route to go, I intended to do that anyhow. Hate to have to gear it way down with a 3500ish kv motor so it can survive. The car has an RPM case, basic Traxxas metal innards otherwise. She has taken abuse for nearly 4 yrs as is. Does the car now become a static model, being that it needs to stay in appearance as is? A museum piece if you will, or is there something out there that fits my needs?
    I have a FLM trans case with a FLM diff Robinson Racing hardened idler and it takes quite a beating with a 2400kv castle on 3s and 4s.
    I think I've taken out two diff internals and both times I had it coming.
    A cheap fix, I always keep a couple sets of internal diff gears on the shelf for my 2wd's.
    IMO 2wd beat the 4wd experience by far, my 4wd's are fun but not as much as 2wd.

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Last edited by billy-bones; 04-19-2018 at 10:01 AM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Nice eye candy there Mr. Bones! Slicks........ My only fear is the fact that it is a 10lb car and I don't let off the gas. All was well on 2s, 3s changed the deal. Are the arm tabs separate from the tranny case? They can't be there for my application. Roughly how much $$$$$ is in that set up as well?

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    Nice eye candy there Mr. Bones! Slicks........ My only fear is the fact that it is a 10lb car and I don't let off the gas. All was well on 2s, 3s changed the deal. Are the arm tabs separate from the tranny case? They can't be there for my application. Roughly how much $$$$$ is in that set up as well?
    Yes the mounts are separate, you can change the toe with them and they come in different degrees.
    That rig runs zero rear toe with the 1 degree FLM mounts backwards as well as tekno 1.5 reversed.
    If I remember the trans case and FLM diff were in the $115 range and the RR hardened idler was about $12; its been a while so I'm guessing here.
    This case also give you anti squat adjustments.
    As far as the entire build I don't know what I have into it, I don't keep receipts as there depressing.
    Since this is my favorite RC I spared no expense tho.

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Billy-Bones,

    There's a lot to look at with that FLM build. Look at all those shock positions on that front tower!! I also like that aluminum front bumper. Now if you could add a wing and convert it to a buggy I'd be even happier!! Just joking!
    MTFBWY

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Billy-Bones,

    There's a lot to look at with that FLM build. Look at all those shock positions on that front tower!! I also like that aluminum front bumper. Now if you could add a wing and convert it to a buggy I'd be even happier!! Just joking!
    You never know lol.
    When I run the rig I put an RPM bumper on in front of the aluminum one, believe it or not it screws right on underneath.
    It was in for some new rear rubber when I took those pics.
    Out of seven different RC's that one and my TRX-4 are the favorites, still love my SCX10 (a huge money pit) but the TRX-4 is one nice scaler.

    I like the way the RPM bumper fits behind the body with the FLM chassis as well, theres about an 1/8" between the body and the bumper.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    You never know lol.
    When I run the rig I put an RPM bumper on in front of the aluminum one, believe it or not it screws right on underneath.
    It was in for some new rear rubber when I took those pics.
    Out of seven different RC's that one and my TRX-4 are the favorites, still love my SCX10 (a huge money pit) but the TRX-4 is one nice scaler.

    I like the way the RPM bumper fits behind the body with the FLM chassis as well, theres about an 1/8" between the body and the bumper.
    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    I am only one who canít see your pictures? :/


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  19. #19
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Good news. Tore my tranny apart and the pin for the input shaft gear (part #3793) has sheared off. What a pain to get that out! Is there a heavy duty replacement? The rest doesn't look too bad. Output flange bearings will also have to get replaced, they've taken a beating as well.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    I pilfered everything I needed out of a brand new Magnum 272 tranny I have. Got it back together, now with my 550 can 2400 kv motor. Drove for about 2 minutes and its broken AGAIN. same sound, so I'm betting I sheared the pin again. Shine that. Can someone give me a reason why I shouldn't weld the gear to the shaft? I will preheat and do my best to not anneal the parts. Anyone????
    Last edited by MAC FAB; 04-19-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  21. #21
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    Use a drill bit cut to length. That roll pin is super weak. Or an Allen wrench cut to shape will work

  22. #22
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    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wfvxiJbz0vE
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XInPZI0wRj4

    Here are a couple videos of the mythical mod1 gearbox

  23. #23
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I think the pin in the topshaft is the weak link. I find the STRC topshaft to be more durable, it also gets rid of one of the pins and allows for Associated slippers which are used in their 3S capable trucks (i.e. ProSC10).
    Does anyone read my posts? I mean really...
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Nice call Razor! Hoping you help us figure out this mod-1 tranny!! We'll have to go with the strc shaft OR drill for a larger pin?
    MTFBWY

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Does anyone read my posts? I mean really...
    Yes I did, however the Associated slipper thing threw off my focus. Allowing for means you can use EITHER the Slash or AE stuff? For what its worth, my slipper is locked up, so I could care a less about a clutch, don't want one. Does the STRC lay shaft have a pin or is it machined that way? Pics are hard to identify what I'm looking at. Learning 32 pitch stuff will be another thing, my issue there is the spur's o.d. Then I'm sure the RPM case will be the next weakest link.... Does it ever end? All because I want to keep the Slash tranny in my museum piece. Slash trannies won't be used in the upcoming buggy builds, way too much headache. My tranny breaker.

    20180411_192555 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

    This will be what the future holds, Frankenstein, but is way easier and stronger.

    20180406_135006 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

  26. #26
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    You guys realize the purpose of a slipper is so that your transmission/spur/driveshafts/axles don’t blow up, right? I’m just sayin’...
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Yup. Locked is perhaps specific to me. Until somebody makes a torque converter, she's locked up or its smoked clutches. Been there/done that. However, does anyone make a 2 or 3 disc program like some 1:1 has???? I only started breaking that lay shaft pin once I added the 3s nitrous shot to it. Was living on the edge with 2s i guess...... Axles don't blow, they're E Revo.

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I think the pin in the topshaft is the weak link. I find the STRC topshaft to be more durable, it also gets rid of one of the pins and allows for Associated slippers which are used in their 3S capable trucks (i.e. ProSC10).
    Can ONLY be used with the AE slippers according to the lhs. Depressing. So, I'll be welding the gear to the lay shaft after all. $3 for the new shaft so alginment is correct.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Yes the mounts are separate, you can change the toe with them and they come in different degrees.
    That rig runs zero rear toe with the 1 degree FLM mounts backwards as well as tekno 1.5 reversed.
    If I remember the trans case and FLM diff were in the $115 range and the RR hardened idler was about $12; its been a while so I'm guessing here.
    This case also give you anti squat adjustments.
    As far as the entire build I don't know what I have into it, I don't keep receipts as there depressing.
    Since this is my favorite RC I spared no expense tho.

    [IMG] by , on Flickr[/IMG]
    Are those Hot Racing Sway Bars? If so how well do they work for you? I have a set but I'm yet to install them.

    Also I wish that there was such thing as a bulletproof tranny. It's starting to cost me a lot of money throughout all my trucks.
    Last edited by Sprinkletron; 04-20-2018 at 03:01 PM.
    Guess who's back.
    Back again.

  30. #30
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I think the pin in the topshaft is the weak link. I find the STRC topshaft to be more durable, it also gets rid of one of the pins and allows for Associated slippers which are used in their 3S capable trucks (i.e. ProSC10).
    Slash slipper sucks. AE slipper is meant to handle 3S. AE comes in a 3 pad version, that's what I'm running in my Slash/Rustler.

    AE slipper has a way stiffer spring than Traxxas, 3 pads for much more friction, and the spurs spin much more true than Traxxas spurs. When you consider the Traxxas uses 3 little shoes on only one surface, you're talking about 8x more surface area for the AE VTS slipper.

    Last edited by RazorRC22; 04-20-2018 at 04:22 PM.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkletron View Post
    Are those Hot Racing Sway Bars? If so how well do they work for you? I have a set but I'm yet to install them.

    Also I wish that there was such thing as a bulletproof tranny. It's starting to cost me a lot of money throughout all my trucks.
    Yes those are HR sway bars but the installation was highly modified.
    The front is supposed to mount to the bumper mount and the way the rears are setup to be installed was worthless, I literally re-did everything.
    If your building a street/pavement only rig they make a big difference but for off road bashing they'll hurt performance.
    I drilled and taped the rear RPM arms to mount the rears and the front bar brace is mounted to the FLM chassis top plate.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 04-20-2018 at 04:55 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Slash slipper sucks. AE slipper is meant to handle 3S. AE comes in a 3 pad version, that's what I'm running in my Slash/Rustler.

    AE slipper has a way stiffer spring than Traxxas, 3 pads for much more friction, and the spurs spin much more true than Traxxas spurs. When you consider the Traxxas uses 3 little shoes on only one surface, you're talking about 8x more surface area for the AE VTS slipper.
    Yup, +1...
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Slash slipper sucks. AE slipper is meant to handle 3S. AE comes in a 3 pad version, that's what I'm running in my Slash/Rustler.

    AE slipper has a way stiffer spring than Traxxas, 3 pads for much more friction, and the spurs spin much more true than Traxxas spurs. When you consider the Traxxas uses 3 little shoes on only one surface, you're talking about 8x more surface area for the AE VTS slipper.

    I will certainly look at that. In the mean time I will tig the gear to the shaft and run it. Thanks for great insight.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Razor,
    Is that strc top drive shaft 5mm where the top drive gear is installed? Does the stock top drive gear work with that shaft? The better slipper would be good, it looks like it stil has one pin that inserts into the top drive gear-slot?
    MTFBWY

  35. #35
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Yes, it works with the stock gear over the pin.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    You've answered something so I don't have to research it, the 84 tooth spur gear. And if I understood you correctly, it is a dual disc system. I like that. Is the AE spur made of some sort of special plastic? Another other option I'm looking at is 32 pitch gears. Not looking forward to finding gear ratios that work with gear diameter requirements. I'll make that stupid lay shaft gear stay put one way or another. Doing the allen wrench test first as someone suggested, faster and easier than the weld job.

  37. #37
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    You've answered something so I don't have to research it, the 84 tooth spur gear. And if I understood you correctly, it is a dual disc system. I like that. Is the AE spur made of some sort of special plastic? Another other option I'm looking at is 32 pitch gears. Not looking forward to finding gear ratios that work with gear diameter requirements. I'll make that stupid lay shaft gear stay put one way or another. Doing the allen wrench test first as someone suggested, faster and easier than the weld job.
    There's two types of slipper systems the V2 slipper and VTS. V2 is 2 pad, the VTS is 3 pad. Plastics are some kind of composite, and you can get either Associated brand or Kimborough brand.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    There's two types of slipper systems the V2 slipper and VTS. V2 is 2 pad, the VTS is 3 pad. Plastics are some kind of composite, and you can get either Associated brand or Kimborough brand.
    10-4. Welded and allen shaft and gear are installed. Run test this evening or tomorrow.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    You guys realize the purpose of a slipper is so that your transmission/spur/driveshafts/axles don’t blow up, right? I’m just sayin’...
    Im trying to understand this slipper concept, so basically it sometimes just slips instead of applying the torque to the wheels, why is that good? Just to stop wheels from skidding?

  40. #40
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by User View Post
    Im trying to understand this slipper concept, so basically it sometimes just slips instead of applying the torque to the wheels, why is that good? Just to stop wheels from skidding?
    To alleviate the tourque from the motor when heavy impacts (high grip, landing under throttle excetra) are applied, thus softening the "blow" to your drive line. When properly adjusted, it's amazing but, the window of properly adjusted is very small

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

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